rsfeller

Thank you. I let the car cool down and reclosed the cap. Then drove for about 15 minutes around a little section on the hwy and the neighborhood. No leak. The temp gauge though, did go up higher than 180. Looks to be about 185~190 range. I'm not sure if this is normal. I will have to check and see how the car does tomorrow. As far as the pictures, the picture that I took with my camera was too big. I will have to resize it next time. Thanks! We'll you had to have lost some fluid so make sure you top off, dry everything under the carpet and take another test drive. 180-190F is normal in my opinion although there is a poster or two that tend to disagree. Mine has been a rock steady 190F (at the gauge) and temperatures via the system with the durametric software show mine to run approx. 185-187F on the screen. Every car I own runs approx. 190F so I don't see why the Porsche should be much different.

you most likely do have the faulty coolant tank issue based on your location. this is a DIY item, search the topic for specific write ups. Before we assume the worst you need to pull back the carpet and inspect the tank area and to see how much and where the fluid is. If you recently topped off your fluid it could be something a silly as a lose cap. Start easy and go big. FYI you can upload images to this website which is great for future people who find our posts. That way if you took your personal photos of your web the links will not be invalid!

I understand now. When I bought my 97 986 both alien eyes were missing, I found them under the seats when I pulled them for a deep cleaning. I do recall the LEDs are only on the driver side and look like 6-8 black spider eyes. The right side has a small IC board with 4 chips on them which I do not know what they do. I figured they were two different types of motion sensing. If yours is the same configuration then I think you are the same as me and most likely OK. Additionally, mind doesn't have a locking gas cap so not input there. You mentioned something with the doors before and I'm sure that is your double beep if still present. My failed motion sensors only give a durametric error and present no beep or failure in the use of the system. Door alarms work just fine.

Makes good sense. I figured flat spots were a more permanent issue but they can obviously work themselves out when the tire warms and the centrifical force pushes things back into shape? I would say mine sits up to two weeks at a time when the weather is poor.

Chris, I put new Kumhos on two summers ago, lots of tread left. I noted that whenever I take the car out (one or twice a week) the first 10 minutes there is a wobble that can be felt even through steering. I honestly have to say I think it's a combination of rear calipers that need attention and rust on the rotors that needs scrubbed off. I've had my share of cars over the years and enver felt a slight steering shudder that goes away shortly after warming. My only guess is to do with rotors/calipers...as odd as it may be. I know I have something in the rear that may need attention as I can hear light rubbing on sweeping turns. Shawn

How does the infrared motion sensor come into play with the install of the handsfree system? Why would they have even touched that installing such a system?

I think I will take it back to the guy who installed the handsfree car kit and see if he will take the blame for the pax side sensor and fix it. I dont like the doulbe horn beep one was enough! I'm guessing your 59 error is the one disengaging the alarm system. I know the other two can fail and still arm the system.

As Loren said 33/34 are common failures of the motion system. Mine have failed and do not impede the use of other security features. So basically I'm starting that the system will still operate with these faults present.

Glad you bought the Durametric but anyone can change the plugs, it's rather simple. If you got the money for someone else to do it go for it...but if you bought the Durametric I figured you may be a DIY'r! As far as the oil you may want to check with them. You need quite a bit of mobile 1 and you are doing it way more often then Porsche recommends...and if you read the owners manual I believe it only tells you to use Synthetic.

I just read this over the weekend, it's 2.7>3.2, so not exactly what you want but has a few good comments from Loren and others who most likely can point you in the right direction. Send anyone there who sounds like they know what they are talking about a private message. Donate a few dollars to the website and I'm sure Loren (website owner) would be happy to give you personal attention! EDIT: Also: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showuser=4060

Wow that sucks. Seems hypocritical to create a smog standard that can be met but then tell people they are not allow to modify! If you meet the standard then you should be allowed...sounds like it's getting crazier out there. So how do all the hardcores in and around LA with the billion dollar toys heavily modified get away with it?

Enlighten us midwest people, if you pass the exam what is the issue? Is it illegal to modify a vehicle in Cali even if it passes smog?

Beelzy: You can get the Bentley manual at Amazon.com. Price is reasonable. Regards, Maurice. or from Bentley! http://www.bentleypublishers.com/

Not sure how pronounced yours is but I know I have rear calipers that need rebuilt and drag slightly. The drag becomes noticeable on sweeping turns on my windy run to work. I would call it a mild grind sound but it's the only car I have ever heard this.

Search this website, there is a tremendous amount of info on this topic already written here. Common failure item. Your question is dependent on the fact if you are DIY, sending it to an independent shop or taking to the Porsche Stealer.

Glad to read you got DIY skills as most Porsche guys on here do. Still not sure how you have $3000 in it with that list but I don't doubt you if you stated it. As far as the tire comment that is nothing new to many current sports cars with giant tires and little trunks. Nobody said the donut is a solution only something for them to cover their butt, my father has the same issue with his corvette. I know I would not do the donut, I'd call a flat bed. As far as the black box...they are all making it difficult with to much technology in one box but that is what the market requires. Let's face it nobody should be making cars with 1991 technology in mind or they are going to fall to the wayside of those companies with more bells and whistles in the black boxes. Most consumers are easly lemmings (yes even Porsche people) who just want kick *** stereos, lazy (and ugly IMHO) NAV systems and all the crazy acronyms (SRS, ABS, TCS, ect). No alarm is full proof or going to solve most theft issues especially with a convertible and a flatbed truck but this box will solve most basic theft issues. I believe Porsche was struggling with their alarm system as I have several errors related to the security pill and other items that have no ill effect on the starting, running, arming and triggering of the full system...but the codes are present and I feel like they are a problem waiting to happen. You are definitely comparing some old sturdy cars (that leaked oil) to new ones and it's not always a fair comparison. Hell my 1974 Roadrunner was indestructible too! Rant all you want on a new headache we all do from time to time but keep in mind Porsche has had great new customer ratings and high profitability for more then a decade when they went to the brink of destruction. Not sure of the 996 engine woes but I know the lowly 2.5L only had one bad year (I think it was 1999) and many know to avoid if they don't know the history. then again most of them would have failed by now.

So you bought a car used and have no idea how the previous owner treated it and you call it junk? Was it a CPO? I ONLY buy used cars (mostly Vw and Saabs) and accept the fact that ALL used cars need $1000 in work the day you get them. There is most likely a reason the person is selling it other then boredom. Take that same theory for more expensive car to maintain and the number could easily be doubled or tripled which is about what you have in it so far. When I bought my boxster I got it for a great deal but still put $1000 into it to get it just right with common failure items. First thing I did was buy a Bentley and Durametric and solved all my own issues w/o having to walk near a Porsche Stealer. water pump $200 DIY wheel alignment (4 wheel) $100 Pully tensioner (belt?) $200 Squeeking/rattle front end (bushing) $400 That is less then a $1000 in DIY costs and I buffered my numbers. I don't see anything that is not normal wear and tear or regular maintenance in your comments other then the window/alarm/light issue which most likely can easily be resolved. buy the durametric software for $250 and pull your codes and save money. I'm just not supporting your concerns yet. If you knew 99-01 have engine issues, why did you buy it? or are you having lack-of-research remorse? Did you have a mechanic check out this car before you bought it? I never buy a boat over $10K w/o a survey who buys a $40 sports car w/o a good mechanic kicking the tires? Lastly you have posted your rant in the 986 board! Used cars need love unless they are CPO...sounds like you feel a 7 year old car should drive factory new. Some do, most don't. From owning so many 911 and buying a used car I would expect you to have some DIY skills, but maybe not. I know you will take this email as negative and a personal attack but it's far from that. You simply are frustrated, made some bad choices and seem to have a car with an electric issue with many symptoms that will be solved by one fix. I see nothing yet pointing to a lemon due to quality control or design.

I think we had this same discussion just a few weeks ago. Many run 180-190F and vary between this range while others (like mine and yours) are spot on 24/7. Let's not scare the guy from the primary issue quite yet! He most likly has a level or level sensor issue to deal with.

If the temp is staying where it should it cannot be the thermostat. The light serves two purposes and the second one is the coolant level. Have you checked it?

Go to this link and download the 2nd document on cooling. Not as good as the Bentley but of use none-the-less. http://www.carboncow.net/index.php?option=...6&Itemid=32

Yea now you have two drive shafts (half shaft) full of C/V soon to click! Most transaxle based cars have many C/V waiting to click...my vanagon Syncro had 10 sets to maintain, break and click like a pack of crickets...

I have heard water pumps tick before but by that point the weep hole is leaking some fluid, but that was on a Vw and not Porsche.

We'll if you use the same logic I doubt a thermostat would go at that mileage either!! So never rule our product quality or human error when it comes to system failures! Ebay, site sponsors, amazon. You'll read me write it 101 times on this board. If anyone is asking or thinking of DIY they should own a Bentley Manual. Working on your car (unless you are an expert) is silly w/o one. Although I NEVER mind answering questions I can state this answer is clearly written in the Bentley manual. Although they don't make them for all cars they seem to for most German cars and I have one for all my Vw & Porsche...expensive but worth their weight...and if you have more money to burn (becuase you have a Porsche you must be rich (joke) get the durametric software for system troubleshooting (google/search it) with the Bentley and Durametric you can solve 92.3456% of most of your own concerns and save thousands in trips to the Porsche dealer. I used to have PDFs of the Porsche Tech Manual to send to people for such requests but seemed to have acidently deleted them! Maybe another member on the board would have such and item if it has references to the waterpump/thermostat. Sometimes the PET is of use too.

Any leaks? I would consider a water pump too if you hear funny noises still. A seized pump is (obviously) not moving water and thus why you didn't feel much at the heater, a stuck thermostat would do the same...but I think they tend to fail in the open position. Regardless to answer you question, it's a very easy job. I don't recall the specifics but when I was troubleshooting another problem I decided to be on the safe side and swap out another factory spec (temp) stat and I believe I had to remove another coolant hose to get to it from the direct bottom, this is covered in the Bentley clearly...you do have a Bentley, correct!?!?! Keep in mind I have access to a pit or lift to do this, I don't know if I would care to try it while the car is on ramp jacks...just to tight! Shawn www.carboncow.net

We'll you cannot argue with Glyn comments if they are 100% accurate (which I am sure they are!) but it assumes the driver is, as he states, in harmony with the car. Anyone I know who does such shifting regularly grinds them as often as they find them! I believe the challenge is part of the desire for some but the initial poster may very well be a great shifter. I doubt anyone's comments are w/o merit as Glyn speaks from a tech and vulcan point of view and the rest of us are speaking from the human point of view, most humans make errors...a lot. Based on the fact that humans seldom do anything perfect all the time I think those who feel the danger of wear on the gear box from bad shifting is a valid point still as his Glyn's. As Glyn states the syncro were created for a reason, and I'm sure most drivers fall into the category of those unable to nail a perfect clutch-less shift 100% of the time. So when some 18 year with a new used Boxster finds this thread and decides to go clutchless he may very well do some damage to his new toy. Glyn's info is a great layman description of what is going on and why. As a note the quality of the gear box makes a difference. I had a Mazda 626 and it was smooth as butter to do clutchless shifts but my Passat Tdi, Saab 9000 did not like them very much at all!