fasterjames

Did you buy your car used? It looks like part of a vehicle tracking system which is used on a lot of company cars. They download data on location, speed, time at idle, RPMS, gas mileage, etc as a way of keeping employees honest, getting better insurance, and watching over productivity.

thank you all in advance for helping me. LINK third pic shows a J-tube, if yours looks doesn't like that then you need the Y-tube! I replaced mine a couple of years ago and took me about 4 hours and was the first job I did on a Boxster. You will need to access the engine from both top and bottom so axle stands are a 'must have'. thanks Hairy, i read the link you sent me and i also found few other links said that on a 2000MY and up model, you can access the AOS from top only. is this correct? No you will need to access it from under the car too. You will remove the right rear wheel and jack it up in order to remove an accordian style hose and 2 bolts that connect the AOS to the engine block. Replacing the AOS is really not very difficult other than access to everything is very tight. One word of caution I learned the hard way: do NOT break the little clip that attaches the 'middle' hose of the AOS to an oil line of some sort. After much investigation I found out the only way to fix it is to buy a new clip-molded hose which Porsche gets 7.5 hours to replace. Save yourself lots of headaches. I ended up rigging it closed since I could find no evidence of it being a high pressure hose.

If you have the rollbar inserts you may want to consider wrap-tying them with a black tie wrap. If you lean your seat back too far they will push out and you will leave these on the road as well. Plus it keeps someone from taking them as easily.

all my lugs had rust too, some more than others. This is 'normal.' Replacements are easily found through aftermarket sources however. Be sure when you or someone else jacks up your car that it is done right or it will mess up your Boxster. Congrats on your new Boxster!

I don't know about that exact unit but from my experience JVC has been very unreliable. I put a JVC system in another car and within 6 months I had to have the head unit replaced 3 times. Fortunately I bought it at Circuit City and had bought the extended warranty/replacement plan they were offering at the time. The 4th one it started giving me problems within the first few hours and I bought an Alpine to replace it. Hopefully this upgraded model is also an upgrade in quality for you.

Thanks for the reply. that's what I was afraid of. I have been contemplating many workarounds. My latest and what I think I will try is this: Twist safety wire on the 'moulded' ridges of the hose and the AOS like when racing motorcycles or like they use on airplanes. One strong loop on each side then tie them together. After this I would heat shrink a wrap over the connection that could be removed later if needed. I don't think there is too much pressure on the connection between the AOS and the lower breather hose but I can't find out for sure. What do you think?

I know this is an old post but part #4 is exactly what I need to replace on an 02 Boxster. The reason is the clip at the AOS end broke that I need to be able to attach the hose. Dealer wants 7.5 hours. Is this about right? Is this something a determined semi-experienced wrench can do? Thanks

Thanks kbrandsma. Yeah on mine they call it a Y tube and it was full of oil so I ordered this too, but haven't had a chance to finish it. My big fear though is that the gunk in the picture is from a different tube that is on the opposite side of the AOS & I can't find info on what its function is. The one in blue goes to the TB and the one in Red is the one I am wondering about. There is gunk on the inside of the tube circled in red. There is no barrier between the tube in red and the accordian so I have to assume there is gunk where that goes too. Am I looking at a vehicle that had poor service history before I bought it? It has 72K.

Can anyone help? Is the tube from the AOS to the crankcase supposed to have this much debris in it?

Replaced my AOS yesterday at 71K. Wasn't too bad thanks to the forums help but I did it late at night in the dark so it took longer than it should have. I believe the hose in the picture connects the AOS to the crank case, is this right? This hose is the one that comes off the middle of the AOS and faces away from the throttle body. The clamp that holds this hose to the AOS was brittle and broke. I don't mind the cost factor but it only comes with a new hose and I am lost at how to (and don't want to re-remove the aos) and track that hose to replace it. It goes deep enought I can't see its end. Bentley manual doesn't mention it anywhere. 1. Is this a high pressure hose or can I get away with not using a factory clamp? What exactly does this hose do? 2. There was a lot of gunk at the end of this hose. Is this somewhat normal? Is this bad news? Thanks!

I don't have personal experience with these so I am open to being wrong. From what I have heard and read by people who don't sell them, laser jammers supposedly don't work. Your best bet is to hope there is someone in front of you being spotted first.

When I used it as a daily driver I shifted around 3200-3500 in town as well to be 'nice.' Now that it is a mountain road pleasure vehicle again I have a lot of fun getting closer to red!

Thanks for the quick replys. Yep, 71K on it so I guess I'm due. Based on what I had found here on renntech I was thinking AOS until I read someones post about white smoke being a probable head gasket so I got worried. I am really hoping that the AOS is my only issue.

I was having an incredible drive through the mountains of N GA the other day. Top down, lots of twisties and hillls. All great until I see a few puffs of white smoke coming from the tailpipe. Then it became a stream of white smoke that lasted about 3 seconds. Then all the smoke dissappeared. It happened one more time about 4 miles later and then I parked the car and haven't run it since. I searched and found it may be the AOS but am afraid that white smoke might be something worse. Symptoms: white smoke medium suction on oil cap no CEL no noticable coolant loss For the past few months I have heard kind of a whooshing-airy sound coming from the right side vent. I'm not sure if it's related. The car is currently about 40 miles from a Porsche Independant and 60 from a dealer. :o Does anyone have ideas as to what this could be? Thanks

17 years in the automotive business in various forms, mostly training dealers and lenders. Here is what 'most' likely happened. Guy can't afford his Boxster anymore because his house in Florida is about to be foreclosed on. He trades in his Boxster at Carmax but because he has so many late payments on his other bills he is now considered a candidate for Secondary/Special Financing (one of my main topics btw). They let him drive off the lot with another vehicle under the assumption that he can get financed (legal in FL) but after weeks of trying, none of the banks will accept him. In the meantime they cleaned and serviced his trade in (your new Boxster) and put it up for sale. You buy it and drive it around while they are getting more frantic trying to get a bank to buy the other guys loan. Then either they just can't get the loan done or his circumstances change (filed for bankruptcy, lost job, lost income, lost insurance, etc) so now they don't have a sale with the other guy anymore but already sold his trade to you. Carmax is now faced with several dilemmas: They don't have a deal with him and have wasted lots of time. They sold the trade in vehicle. They have to somehow get his 'new' car back from him. And they have to get your car back from you to give it to the other guy, hoping to keep you in a sale. I have seen this scenario play out 20 or more times. Legally you own the car, they just don't want to title it because they are hoping you will give in. What has probably happened is in order to make the car deal with the first guy they overinflated the trade amount on paper to make it look better to the bank (happens 85% + of the time-ever see the 'Guaranteed Minimum Trade Amount commercials?). Because they sold his trade they now owe him that amount of money or his car back. Obviously they don't want to do this but that's how the game gets played. If it holds out long enough they would be in contempt of their agreement with you over titling issues. Good luck and let us know what happens.

On my 5 spd, 02 2.7 I get 29-30 mpg on the highway, 22 in town. I drive with a little spirit but not with stupidity. I am very happy with the mileage.

That'll give you the extra something you were looking for seafeye...and then some. And yes, it would be very nice.

Very Creative Cross-Post! Fortunately for me, I found it humorous and it eased the pain. Good Job, it was very funny. B)

I had them too. It was like driving on a full-time hydroplane.

ie., Tailgater. Probably didn't care about the car too much. ie., didn't care about the car or himself too much. ie., $100 bucks in wash, wax was worth it to look OK. Trust your instincts. Being from FL myself and having several black cars, I will never buy one again unless it is such a fantastic deal that I'd kick myself forever for not buying it. Remember you will be washing it a lot more, it will show every scratch, and will fade quicker. Plus you don't know it's real history. Not so much the service history but if it looks like it was ridden hard it probably was. You know the history of yours. Think to yourself, will hitting the gas, getting a little more response, and rounding that corner a split second faster be worth 7K? If yes (and it would be perfectly acceptable to say yes) then does the uncertainty factor take anything away from that thrill? It almost sounds to me like you are may be a little bored and are looking for a change. Upgrade your suspension, change out the stereo, new wheels, or something else that may respark what you are looking for. I agree with X51 and Rodger that there are lots of other vehicles out there if you are looking to move up. In fact with FL home forclosures as high as they are now, you can count on a few of these to be up for sale while someone is trying to stay in their home. 2 cents. Let us know what you decide.

Thanks, I didn't even know they had such a thing. I'm going to get one of the lid protectors as soon as this is repaired. And yeah it broke through the paint so the dent removal won't work. At least then it would've only been about $100. And get this, they hit less than 1 cm from the structural 'beam' in the lid. I hope this post will keep someone else from doing the same thing.

So after waiting 2 months while finding time to fix my rear trunk cable I became used to opening the front and tossing in whatever it was I needed to carry. The first time I opened the trunk after replacing the accuator assembly was at the local grocery while on the phone and slightly distracted. I placed my items including a six pack of 24oz sodas in the trunk and closed it...or so I thought. :cursing:

Two scenarios. 1st, somebody unknowingly could have topped off your coolant tank with regular anti-freeze. This is why I don't ever take any of my cars to a quick lube kind of place, usually do everything myself or have experienced Porsche technicians work on my car. If this is the case you should flush and refill it. 2nd, I think this is likely your scenario. The coolant tank gets more yellowish as it ages. Yellow is also one of the 3 primary colors so is stronger than pink. Therefore when you shine light on/in a darkened yellow piece of plastic you will see more of the plastic that the actual liquid or object inside of it. (Think of a brake light and bulb). If looking in you should see pink towards the top but the shadows and bottom of the tank will make it look darker the deeper you go. If I look at the side indicator of my original 02 tank, it looks like what is inside is dark green. When I open my cap, it is totally pink. You are probably fine. Good luck with your car.

I think if you keep it really clean, don't wipe it until all surfce dirt it off, keep it garaged (like you do), and use a great plastic cleaner on it you should get many years from it. I'd say 5-8 years at least. Whatever you do, don't use Windex or any other typical glass cleaner. The ammonia will make it brittle and cause the yellowing corroded spots you see on a lot of them. You probably know how to clean already but here's my 2 cents on how I plan to keep mine that long. Here's how I clean the outside: When washing the car I generously spray the window with water (never any soap). Then I coat the window with Plexus or the Porsche plastic window cleaner so it looks like it was snowed on. Then I take a baby's cloth diaper and gently make one pass over it. If there is any cleaner left I make another pass over that part only with a different part of the diaper. This gets up almost all of the surface dirt that can cause scratches. ( I learned to never short-cut this step the hard way once. ggrrr) Then I recoat with cleaner and use a different cloth diaper this time using a circular motion like I would on a normal window. I do the inside the same way except for the initial spray of water. If I was replacing my window, I may go with glass just to save the time and effort involved but like you wouldn't want to lose any space when working on the engine. Tough call, good luck!

I had a technician tell me once to use dielectric grease, the same stuff they put in spark plug boots. It supposedly dissapates heat, keeps out O2, corrosion, and leaves the rubber softer. I tried in on an Oldsmobile I had but can't really say whether it was successful or not because the rubber trim was already corroded after about 2 years, which prompted me to look for a solution in the first place. I guess it did help because the trim didn't get worse until it was about 5 years old. I haven't tried it on my Boxster's trim yet. I've been using the Maguire's as well and hope in time it will live up to the FL challenge. Anybody have any thoughts/experience on the dielectric grease?