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Posts posted by FlashingBlade
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When I bought my 2002 996, it came with PSE but without the override switch.
The muffler does get quieter at certain speeds, but I do not know whether this
is due to vacuum or electronics.
I have looked and read ALL the installation descriptions so far, and really cannot
tell what additional parts I need. The engine compartment pics look pretty much like what I have (switch over valve, vacuum hoses, check valve & vacuum canister).
See enclosed pics. I have not taken the interior apart as yet to see whether a wire
travels from the rear to the front of the vehicle, nor what is installed in the fuse box (because I don't know what I am looking for). So my question to you all is:
o What is the difference in installation between the switched and non switched PSE install (other then the obvious switch and wires)?
o If you do not install the switch, does a wire still travel to the front of the car to some relay? I have a wire coming out of the switch over valve, but cant tell where it goes.
o What exactly gets installed in the fusebox if you do not install the switch (i.e., what should I be looking for?)
o Anyone have a picture of the fuse box, or a wiring diagram for the relay, switch and switch over valve?
My guess so far is that I need the switch 996 613 987 10 A05
and the set 996 612 978 00 that includes the wiring harness and relay
996 618 980 03
Thanks, Jan
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Are you sure this is such a good idea? Each time I turn on
any of my radar detectors they make their start up sound.
Do you really want to hear that each time you exceed 30
(or whatever)? The automute would be better, but then you'll probably
have to hack into the radar detector circuitry (probably easy, but a pain).
If you can hack into the digital speedometer circuity, then
you just need a set of leads and an or gates to see if any
of the bits beyond the 6th bit (0010 0000 =32 mph) are set to one.
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Could you perhaps point to the pages that you used?
I am aware of several, however, I may have missed a few.
Any errata, or short cuts?
Thanks.
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Thanks for the info.
Is there anyone out there that uses the OEM Porsche bracket?
Are any of our readers in Europe because they are likely
to be using that bracket instead of the BK one.
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I posted this by accident in the GT3 group. I intended
it to be posted here. Appologies.
I am sure you are all aware of the Brey-Krause http://www.bkauto.com/porsche/r2020.php fire extinguisher
holder.
However, whilst in Europe I found out that Porsche sells its
own fire extinguisher bracket. According to the PET print out it's
on page stz2/02/8/26/826-07 and the relavant part numbers are:
996 521 674 and 996 521 607
Has anyone tried to install these parts or know how they compare
with the BK bracket above?
Will it hold any of the US fire extinguishers?
Thanks, Jan
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I am sure you are all aware of the Brey-Krause http://www.bkauto.com/porsche/r2020.php fire extinguisher
holder.
However, whilst in Europe I found out that Porsche sells its
own fire extinguisher bracket. According to the PET print out it's
on page stz2/02/8/26/826-07 and the relavant part numbers are:
996 521 674 and 996 521 607
Has anyone tried to install these parts or know how they compare
with the BK bracket above?
Will it hold any of the US fire extinguishers?
Thanks, Jan
Wooops: I just noticed I posted this in the wrong group and can't seem
to delete it. This is for a regular 996.
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I have always cast a rather skeptical eye towards the JD Power ratings.
The report you are referring to is the Initial Quality Survey, which
monitors a bunch of issues (including ride and handling)
during the first 90 days of ownership for what I presume is the 2005
model year. The report also bunches all models together for their ranking,
which indeed means that boxsters, 911 and Cayennes fall in the same
pot. http://www.jdpower.com/news/releases/press....asp?ID=2005069
If you look at the above link you will see that the 911 is mentioned
as one of the highest ranked premium sports cars...
In all honesty, I don't really care what happens during the first 90
days of ownership. That's what warrantee is for. The IQS survey
it's also unlikely to cover RMS failures. I am more concerned about
the quality at 150k miles and 10 years.
Another thing to note is that the difference between worst and best
car has diminished significantly over the years. The worst 2005 car
would qualify upper mid pack a couple of years ago.
Also, there is a lot of psychology involved. Don't you think
that someone who just spent 100k on a car isn't going to be
a lot more picky than someone who bought a 10k car?
Jan
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If you you are lucky, it'll be close, sometimes very close, but not always. My Guards Red touch up paint is way to orangy eventhough it is the exact same paint code.You can get Touch up paint at the dealership and it will be an exact match.Car manufacturers buy x 1000 liters of paint in one batch, and unless you got the paint from that batch you will always have a slight difference. I also have the impressions that they changed colors over time while retaining the same name (like the Guards Red).
Jan
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A quick clarification to my post... If you just want to touch up scratches and dings so that they are not so obvious from 5 feet, get whatever you can find at the dealer or elsewhere. If you want to repaint a fender or a door, and you want to keep the car for a bit, then you need to worry about paint quality, pigments and such.
Jan
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The issue that I have with different paint manufacturers is that they use different combination of pigments to match a color. The problem with that is that the pigments fade at different rates, which means that after a couple of years the repainted parts will look different. For some colors (e.g., white, silver) this may not very noticable. For brighter colors, like yellow and red, this may be very noticable.My artic silver has been painted twice, with Sherwin Willams and Sikkens. Both times it was a perfect match.My friend has been in the body shop business for 30 years and he said all paint companies can duplicate each other. He used Sherwin Williams on my car because they give him a good deal. He has used other companies in the past.
Christophorus or Panorama had an article recently as to to supplies what to Porsche. It was Dupont for paint. Dupont owns Spies Hecker.
My information is based on my experience with a set of VWs whose OEM paint was BASF/Glazurit. I don't know what Porsche uses (any one?). My story is backed up with the body shop that I have used in the past, and the refusal by another body shop to work on my Yellow Corrado. He used a different paint brand and could not guarantee the match over the warrantee period.
YMMV
Jan
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I am finally the proud owner of a 2002 C2 996, and I have a lot of questions,
and a lot to learn. I have already found a whole treasure of information
on this web site, but there are many questions remaining.
I am an avid DIY-er, have worked for many years on my own
VWs and have a reasonable set of hand tools. A cursory glance
leads me to believe that the 996 offers me another excuse to buy
more tools.
o Which Torx sizes are most common?
o Is a set of swivel sockets (~8-17mm?) a necessity to work on these cars?
o Is there any readily available oilfilter wrench alternative other than the P or Hazet?
Thanks
Adding switch to existing PSE
in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Posted
Thanks, this will indeed help a lot.
How can I identify the PSE relay? Is it in any particular color,
or particular location near the fusebox? Or is it obvious once I look at it?
Next stupid question: how do I decode BS 5/2 DIM 2/03 and the other
designations where the wires need to go? I am obviously not familiar
with the Porsche nomenclature, but I figure it probably means
something like "some location" connector 5 pin 2.
Thanks for bearing with me.
Jan