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Everything posted by FlashingBlade

  1. To add to our collective knowledge, I figured it out...I didn't have a spare fuse when I posted my question earlier. It so happens that the PSE shares the fuse with the back up lights. The center conductor of the right back up lamp socket had broken off and then shorted out that circuit, taking down the power to the PSE button. I am now scratching my head on how to fix the socket. The wiring loom (996 631 446 00 superseded with a 01) can be had for an every day low price of about 150$. The sockets are not sold individually. My next action will be to twiddle with the remaining center conductor (bend it, put a spring on it), or move the unused fog lamp socket there. Suggestions welcome. By the way, I replaced the left lamp with a Silvania LED, and it it is WAY brighter.
  2. This should be a quick and easy question to answer: Does your PSE button only click on the raised portion, or also on the depressed portion (like the other buttons)? My PSE button stopped working. If I push the raised portion, the LED just briefly flashes and does not close the mufflers. Now I don't recall whether both "sides" of the switch should work, or only one side before I start tearing the car apart. Question 2: is the B10 fuse the only fuse that the PSE mechanism relies upon? Incidentally, the back up light fuse (B5 IIRC) blew recently, not sure it's related. This is for a 2002 996 C2 with stock PSE but retrofitted PSE dash button. Thanks!
  3. I was wondering whether anyone is using 225/40R18 on the fronts with 285/35R18 (stock is 30) on the rears on a 2002 996 C2? Will this negatively impact the ABS & PSM? Details: I have a 2002 996 C2 with 18" rims. Stock rear sizes are 285/30R18 except only 285/35R18 are available for the Michelin Pilot Super Sports. I have done the math, they are about 1/2" taller in radius, and 81.223 vs 77.698" in circumference 3 -4 % error on the odometer, but my odometer is 10% fast anyway, so I dont care. I have looked at the forums and have not found a definitive answer. The tire place does not want to mount them on the car. They called Porsche, and they advised against it. OTOH, Porsche also advises against non N rated tires...Local tuner says it's fine. Please advise.
  4. Here are some additional questions: Where does the one touch logic live? Is it part of the motor assembly? Are the limit sensors in the motor or else where? Here is the reason why i am asking and what I have done so far: o cleaned some more o lubed the cables and tracks with a dry PTFE lubricant (found it Home Depot) o it now closes and opens smoothly o re trained per http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/56-sunroof-not-closing-properly/ But, the unit forgets the one touch operation after one cycle. Note that as part of the retraining, I had to follow both procedures, and at one limit the unit seems to be drawing a lot of current, dash lights dimmed. Looked for TSBs but did not find anything relevant. Hence the question above. Thanks.
  5. If it is binding, is there a procedure to further diagnose it and fix it? What is the proper lubrication to use for the tracks and for the "ribbons" that slide inside the tracks? My suspicion is that it's just dirty or has insufficient luberication.
  6. Yes, I did try to retrain. It worked for one cycle, and then decided to go stupid again. It really slows down half way closing, even when I hold down the deflector. Puzzled.
  7. I have read all the articles on sunroof woes, but I still have some questions. Car: 2002 996 C2 Problem: one touch open not working, need to hold down switch and even then does not always want to close, slows down midway closing, generally seems slow What I have done: Cleaned the rails and tracks Put some light lube on various surfaces (Silicone on the surfaces, light oil on the cables) Disconnected the battery & retrained the sunroof -- which worked for one cycle Opened the gear box and relubed with lubriplate (be careful, the gears and small spring will fall out) Ran all this with a battery charger connected so as give full power to the motor All to no avail. Question: Is this likely to be an issue with the motor wearing out? It free wheeled fine with the gears removed. Or is there too much build up of internal friction with the cable mechanism? More lube and if so which? Is there a way to diagnose this before I start spending $$ on parts and labor? Thanks
  8. An alternative is to use the bridgestone S-04 Pole Position, which does come in the correct sizes for the 996, and is rated #2 according to Tire Rack's Max Perf Summer, and rated a bit better than the PS2s. The only concern I have is that the surveys are based on a fairly low number. Any additional thoughts on these? Thanks
  9. Has anyone changed their rear tires from Michelin PS2 285/30-18 to Super Sports 285/35-18? The SS's are less expensive and better regarded than the PS2s, but they don't come in a 285/30-18 size. I did the math (and browsed previous postings on the subject), and the 35s are about .5" taller in radius. I prefer not to go narrower to 265. Does it make that much of a difference in handling? What about acceleration? My speedometer is currently 10% fast, so this may bring it down, though it's the least of my concerns in all honesty. Thanks.
  10. Addendum: USA 2002 996 C2 The location of the screws in Loren's picture was not the same for my car. I had two at the very bottom, three on top as show but also TWO on the sides, which were very hard to get to because the glove box door is in the way. You basically need a torx with a swivel head to get to those. Major pain, the rest was trivial.
  11. The plot thickens...I took out the glove box and a little metal strip fell out that belongs to the little micro switch of the glove box. It probably got dislodges when I was installing the Hella Tire Pressure Monitoring system while routing the cable for the control to the glove box. I put the metal strip back on the micro switch, tested the switch with the glove box (it works), and then put the glove box back. Then I got stumped because the light wouldn't go out when I closed the glove box, even though I heard the distinct click of the micro switch. When I locked the doors and the hood (it was open for the trickle charger), the alarm did not beep meaning all is well. Apparently, when the hood is open the glove box light will also be on. Huh. Next I wondered whether the trunk light will be on when the glove box is open. I tried to convince my daughter to climb in there to check but she declined with some lame excuse. Instead I put my wireless bore scope in the trunk, and sure enough, that light goes on when you open the glove box. So, if you have a defective glove box switch, it's not sufficient to pull that bulb, but you also need to pull the one in the trunk, and possibly the one in the engine compartment. Ugh, bad design, probably tried to save couple pennies and put all those lights on a single control! That may explain some mysterious battery drains. By the way...the location of the screws in Loren's picture was not the same for my car. I had two at the very bottom, three on top as show but also TWO on the sides, which were very hard to get to because the glove box door is in the way. You basically need a torx with a swivel head to get to those. Major pain, the rest was trivial. I'll post a similar comment on those pages.
  12. Thanks Loren. It looks like somethings broke off the micro-switch so that if fails to close when the glove box is shut. That also explains why my battery drained down after a couple of days of non use. I wonder why my searches did not find these notes.
  13. My 2002 996 C2 beeps once when I arm the alarm, and I suspect the glove box switch because when I close the glove box, the light does not seem to go out. You can see the light shine through the seam between the airbag and dash. So far I have been unsuccessful in finding any instructions on how to remove the glove compartment, or where the switch could be, either on various forums or the documentation I have. Any help, diagrams, would help. Thanks.
  14. After finding my tires almost flat (possibly due to a prank, i.e., no nails, no leaks), I decided to purchase a tire pressure monitoring retrofit system from Hella (model TC-400, from tirerack) for my 2002 996. I had originally intended to install it behind the center console, but the instructions recommend against it. I was wondering whether anyone has recommendations for alternative locations for the receiver, what wire I should tap for power, switched power and ground (are there spare locations in the fuse box?), and what a good location is for the display (glove box?) Thanks
  15. It was the switch! I just replaced it, and all is well. It was a lot easier than I thought, give or take figuring out where to pull on things. If you do a search in this forum you'll see a variety of explanations and diagrams, but they don't mention some of the gotchas. To remove the housing the light switch is in requires pulling hard enough to overcome the force of the two clips (top and bottom). This is after you remove the screws of course. I used some combination of plastic "Trim and Molding Tool Set" from HarborFreight tools. To remove the switch you actually need to pull the illuminated ring from the front of the panel forward a bit. It's not obvious but that ring serves as a lock for the switch and just slides out (forward). After you slide it forward, you can twist out the switch. My diagnostic contribution is that if your headlights go out, pull one of your lights out (takes 2 seconds with the tool in your kit), and measure the voltage across pins 7 and 8 (upper left most two in my case when looking at the connector from the front of the car). Then take the other light out, and see what you get then. If the difference is large, it's probably the switch. BTW, the best price for the switch was at Sunset Porsche in Beaverton. Got the part in a day (80US$ + 9US$ shipping), which was well below Pelican (120US$) and the local P dealer (160US$ + tax). I guess BillG doesn't care how much things cost. Hope this helps.
  16. Thanks for your suggestions about the oscilloscope. Before I dust mine off, I want to exhaust all the simple causes first. Today I got lucky, of sorts. The lights did not go on, to the immense amusement of the people at my work, and I popped out one of the lights to measure the voltage across connector pin outs 7 (gnd) and 8 (Lo beam): 5 Volts. WOW! I popped out the other light: 14V (i.e., no load), popped the other one back in: 5V. That basically means that somewhere in the circuit I have a huge build up of resistance. Back home, I retrieved the original Halogen lamp housings from the attic, removed the Xenons, popped one of them in: no light and 0.2 V at the other connector. A back of the envelope computation indicates that I have a build up of an additional ~275Ohms in that circuit (i.e., from the battery through the switch to the lamp). Not good. Ground seems fine. So like Loren originally suggested (of course), it's probably the headlight switch gone bad. Before I order a replacement, one more question: Are there any relays or other components in this circuit that could be the culprit. I only have a 2000 circuit diagram (not a 2002) and I only see a fog light relay (why), but none for the low beams. So unless I have a fried wire, only the switch is left. Thanks
  17. Thanks for all the suggestions (and some PMs). I have had the problem demonstrate itself in several ways. The first time, only one light went on. After that it's been fairly consistent that nothing happens when I turn the lights on and I have to cycle the switch a bunch of times before it works. It's hard to tell whether the lights initially flicker or not, but my wife claim they do not. PMs reported that they fixed their problems with either a new switch or a new ballast, which apparently is the same as those used on MBs (available on ebay for ~120US$). After cleaning the contacts with the lamp housing, the problem seems to have gone away, at least for the moment. Perhaps the small amount of resistance that built up over time lowered the voltage sufficiently that it wont power the ignitors sufficiently. At this point, I cannot trace this problem any further. I am however keeping a Volt meter in the trunk in case it goes out again so I can see measure the voltage at the contacts.
  18. I installed Porsche's bi-xenon headlight assembly in my 2002 996 C2 about 4 years ago (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9851&hl=) They have worked fine until recently (colder?), they don't ignite on the first turn, but require multiple turns of the headlight switch before they come on. Sometimes, they don't come on at all. Several others on this forum have complained about the problem, but I have not seen any definitive solution. The choices so far are: Headlight switch going bad Electronic modules going bad (at the same time?) Lamps going bad (at the same time?) Not enough initial current to the ignitors (colder temps, 15A fuses) My general approach to problems is to start with the least expensive. The last item is the most intriguing to me. One poster claims that the OEM Xenon equipped cars have 30A fuses in slots A9 /A10 while the non OEM equipped cars have 15A fuses (which is indeed my case). There may be some merit to that theory because fuses work by generating heat with a bit of resistance, lower amped fuses have higher resistance, so less current to the ignitors. Combined with colder weather -> lower voltages may make some sense. Unfortunately, I don't have the circuit diagram for my car and so I cannot verify this information (can anyone send it? or verify that claim). In the mean time, I cleaned the lamp housing contacts and now of course all is well. I cannot further diagnose but would like to solve the problem so as not have surprises while on a trip. Your help as usual will be highly appreciated.
  19. Recently did a similar install in my 2002 996. Couple notes that may help others... Plastics: West Marine referred me to TAP plastics http://www.tapplastics.com/ They cut the HDPE piece to size for about 6US$ total. Cool, less work for me. The HDPE that I bought from them is a lot less floppy and less gummy than the cutting boards in the kitchen. I used a router to round the corners. This produced a huge amount of tiny plastic pieces that are fun for kids to play in but due to static cling a disaster to clean up afterwards. Hardware: I picked up the stainless steel bolts from ACE hardware. Instead of locking washers I got self locking nuts, and a set of #10 and #12 washers for better hold down. Hold down: I decided to use a combination of the original clamp to hold down the battery, and a second bolt to the left of the bracket. If anything, you'll have the bracket with you in case you battery dies somewhere in the middle of nowhere and you need to hold down something else. Optima 34R: Indeed hard to find. Found one across town, but didn't feel like spending two hours of my life chasing it. I ordered it from http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/ instead. It was a little bit less (40US$) than what they quoted me locally if you include tax. I have an Optima in another vehicle for several years and so far it's been good. If anything, not having any corrosion is a plus. Cables: The cables to the battery are bolted to the frame and some porcelain receptacle that looks like it came from some 1920's east German nuclear plant. Loosening the nuts gives you just enough slack to fit the battery in. Tight fit though. As usual measure twice before you drill. Tray: Take it out, it'll make your life measuring so much easier. Mine had a couple of bare spots that I touched up with some Rustoleum black paint. You'll need to tilt the tray to get it out of the car. Forgot which way. You'll figure out in 5 seconds. Rigidity: At worst the battery is going to experience a sideways .9Gs and <1G? up or down. I held the battery by the HDPE piece and it wasn't going anywhere. I'll report any future problems if they occur. The whole process was surprising easy and quick.
  20. I talked to a couple folks during a DE day who managed to install the BK bracket w/o removing the seat, but they did remark it was a bit of a squeeze. I think they loosened the front of the seat somehow and then tilted it back to get access.
  21. Just keep in mind that tread wear ratings do not compare between manufacturers. There are no standards for them apparently. I have had tires with a 140 rating last just as long as those with a number twice that high. The 40k warranty on the other hand is amazing and close to unbelievable (on a 996, especially the rears).
  22. See my chains of questions on this problem. I have almost exactly the same problem. You clutch is on the way out, warped clutch disc or pressure plate. Shortly after that happened we believe the diaphragm spring died and the clutch started slipping. Not sure whether this is a common failure sequence. Let me know what quote you get for a clutch job. So far, the local quotes varied from 3kUS$ to 1.5kUS$ at P dealers.
  23. I haven't had to replace mine yet on my 02C4S, but in reading many posts on the subject of clutch replacement it costs around $1100 for the complete clutch job, i.e. parts and labor. Parts are around 4-500 including pressure plate, clutch disk, and throw-out bearing. Labor around $600. If you need to replace flywheel, that runs another $1,000. Others who have recently treplaced theirs can quote you precise $$'s. Demosan For my 02 C2 (see my other message), I was quoted ~9 hours of labor and about 1000US$ for parts, for a total around 3k$ at the Porsche dealer. An indie quoted me 4 hours of labor (at 135US$/hour) for a total of about 2500US$, which includes a new RMS and intermediate shaft seal (so that probably adds a couple 100 to the total, and probably a good idea). So, I'd like to know where you lucky guys live where you can have a clutch job done at P dealer for less than I can get an indie do it. It's almost worth shipping the car there. Thanks.
  24. That sounds like a reasonable diagnosis. Is this a warranty item? So far I have not been too lucky for P to step warranty anything clutch related. I have the pre-owned extended warranty which is about to expire (figures). I have a regular 2002 C2. I gather my choices for clutch replacement are as follows: 1) Replace with OEM item 2) Replace with Turbo Clutch 3) Replace with Sport Clutch (which comes with a lighter flywheel). I am inclined to do 1 or 2. Any experiences in the benefits and downsides of 2? How much heavier is the clutch application? How does it affect driveability? Does it last longer than 1? Thanks.
  25. The clutch saga continues: I had it checked out at the dealer and they believe either the clutch material disintegrated or the pressure plate warped. Neither one is of course covered under any sort of warrantee. However, the plot thickens. On my drive home I accelerated hard from one light, and the clutch pedal suddenly became very soft and the clutch started slipping. Any speculations on what may have happened? Pressure plate defective? I still feel this is not normal wear and tear. The clutch material was examined about 5k miles ago during an RMS replacement and found to have 50% material left. On my other cars, I usually get around 100k miles out of a clutch, so I find this to be a bit soon. I am familiar with a clutch slipping but not the sudden change in pedal feel.
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