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Everything posted by FlashingBlade

  1. To add to our collective knowledge, I figured it out...I didn't have a spare fuse when I posted my question earlier. It so happens that the PSE shares the fuse with the back up lights. The center conductor of the right back up lamp socket had broken off and then shorted out that circuit, taking down the power to the PSE button. I am now scratching my head on how to fix the socket. The wiring loom (996 631 446 00 superseded with a 01) can be had for an every day low price of about 150$. The sockets are not sold individually. My next action will be to twiddle
  2. This should be a quick and easy question to answer: Does your PSE button only click on the raised portion, or also on the depressed portion (like the other buttons)? My PSE button stopped working. If I push the raised portion, the LED just briefly flashes and does not close the mufflers. Now I don't recall whether both "sides" of the switch should work, or only one side before I start tearing the car apart. Question 2: is the B10 fuse the only fuse that the PSE mechanism relies upon? Incidentally, the back up light fuse (B5 IIRC) blew recently, not sure it's relate
  3. I was wondering whether anyone is using 225/40R18 on the fronts with 285/35R18 (stock is 30) on the rears on a 2002 996 C2? Will this negatively impact the ABS & PSM? Details: I have a 2002 996 C2 with 18" rims. Stock rear sizes are 285/30R18 except only 285/35R18 are available for the Michelin Pilot Super Sports. I have done the math, they are about 1/2" taller in radius, and 81.223 vs 77.698" in circumference 3 -4 % error on the odometer, but my odometer is 10% fast anyway, so I dont care. I have looked at the forums and have not found a definitive answer. The tire place does not wan
  4. Here are some additional questions: Where does the one touch logic live? Is it part of the motor assembly? Are the limit sensors in the motor or else where? Here is the reason why i am asking and what I have done so far: o cleaned some more o lubed the cables and tracks with a dry PTFE lubricant (found it Home Depot) o it now closes and opens smoothly o re trained per http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/56-sunroof-not-closing-properly/ But, the unit forgets the one touch operation after one cycle. Note that as part of the retraining, I had to follow both procedures, and at on
  5. If it is binding, is there a procedure to further diagnose it and fix it? What is the proper lubrication to use for the tracks and for the "ribbons" that slide inside the tracks? My suspicion is that it's just dirty or has insufficient luberication.
  6. Yes, I did try to retrain. It worked for one cycle, and then decided to go stupid again. It really slows down half way closing, even when I hold down the deflector. Puzzled.
  7. I have read all the articles on sunroof woes, but I still have some questions. Car: 2002 996 C2 Problem: one touch open not working, need to hold down switch and even then does not always want to close, slows down midway closing, generally seems slow What I have done: Cleaned the rails and tracks Put some light lube on various surfaces (Silicone on the surfaces, light oil on the cables) Disconnected the battery & retrained the sunroof -- which worked for one cycle Opened the gear box and relubed with lubriplate (be careful, the gears and small spring will fall out) Ran all
  8. An alternative is to use the bridgestone S-04 Pole Position, which does come in the correct sizes for the 996, and is rated #2 according to Tire Rack's Max Perf Summer, and rated a bit better than the PS2s. The only concern I have is that the surveys are based on a fairly low number. Any additional thoughts on these? Thanks
  9. Has anyone changed their rear tires from Michelin PS2 285/30-18 to Super Sports 285/35-18? The SS's are less expensive and better regarded than the PS2s, but they don't come in a 285/30-18 size. I did the math (and browsed previous postings on the subject), and the 35s are about .5" taller in radius. I prefer not to go narrower to 265. Does it make that much of a difference in handling? What about acceleration? My speedometer is currently 10% fast, so this may bring it down, though it's the least of my concerns in all honesty. Thanks.
  10. Addendum: USA 2002 996 C2 The location of the screws in Loren's picture was not the same for my car. I had two at the very bottom, three on top as show but also TWO on the sides, which were very hard to get to because the glove box door is in the way. You basically need a torx with a swivel head to get to those. Major pain, the rest was trivial.
  11. The plot thickens...I took out the glove box and a little metal strip fell out that belongs to the little micro switch of the glove box. It probably got dislodges when I was installing the Hella Tire Pressure Monitoring system while routing the cable for the control to the glove box. I put the metal strip back on the micro switch, tested the switch with the glove box (it works), and then put the glove box back. Then I got stumped because the light wouldn't go out when I closed the glove box, even though I heard the distinct click of the micro switch. When I locked the doors and the hood
  12. Thanks Loren. It looks like somethings broke off the micro-switch so that if fails to close when the glove box is shut. That also explains why my battery drained down after a couple of days of non use. I wonder why my searches did not find these notes.
  13. My 2002 996 C2 beeps once when I arm the alarm, and I suspect the glove box switch because when I close the glove box, the light does not seem to go out. You can see the light shine through the seam between the airbag and dash. So far I have been unsuccessful in finding any instructions on how to remove the glove compartment, or where the switch could be, either on various forums or the documentation I have. Any help, diagrams, would help. Thanks.
  14. After finding my tires almost flat (possibly due to a prank, i.e., no nails, no leaks), I decided to purchase a tire pressure monitoring retrofit system from Hella (model TC-400, from tirerack) for my 2002 996. I had originally intended to install it behind the center console, but the instructions recommend against it. I was wondering whether anyone has recommendations for alternative locations for the receiver, what wire I should tap for power, switched power and ground (are there spare locations in the fuse box?), and what a good location is for the display (glove box?) Thanks
  15. It was the switch! I just replaced it, and all is well. It was a lot easier than I thought, give or take figuring out where to pull on things. If you do a search in this forum you'll see a variety of explanations and diagrams, but they don't mention some of the gotchas. To remove the housing the light switch is in requires pulling hard enough to overcome the force of the two clips (top and bottom). This is after you remove the screws of course. I used some combination of plastic "Trim and Molding Tool Set" from HarborFreight tools. To remove the switch you actually need to pull the ill
  16. Thanks for your suggestions about the oscilloscope. Before I dust mine off, I want to exhaust all the simple causes first. Today I got lucky, of sorts. The lights did not go on, to the immense amusement of the people at my work, and I popped out one of the lights to measure the voltage across connector pin outs 7 (gnd) and 8 (Lo beam): 5 Volts. WOW! I popped out the other light: 14V (i.e., no load), popped the other one back in: 5V. That basically means that somewhere in the circuit I have a huge build up of resistance. Back home, I retrieved the original Halogen lamp housings from the
  17. Thanks for all the suggestions (and some PMs). I have had the problem demonstrate itself in several ways. The first time, only one light went on. After that it's been fairly consistent that nothing happens when I turn the lights on and I have to cycle the switch a bunch of times before it works. It's hard to tell whether the lights initially flicker or not, but my wife claim they do not. PMs reported that they fixed their problems with either a new switch or a new ballast, which apparently is the same as those used on MBs (available on ebay for ~120US$). After cleaning the contacts wit
  18. I installed Porsche's bi-xenon headlight assembly in my 2002 996 C2 about 4 years ago (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9851&hl=) They have worked fine until recently (colder?), they don't ignite on the first turn, but require multiple turns of the headlight switch before they come on. Sometimes, they don't come on at all. Several others on this forum have complained about the problem, but I have not seen any definitive solution. The choices so far are: Headlight switch going bad Electronic modules going bad (at the same time?) Lamps going bad (at the same ti
  19. Recently did a similar install in my 2002 996. Couple notes that may help others... Plastics: West Marine referred me to TAP plastics http://www.tapplastics.com/ They cut the HDPE piece to size for about 6US$ total. Cool, less work for me. The HDPE that I bought from them is a lot less floppy and less gummy than the cutting boards in the kitchen. I used a router to round the corners. This produced a huge amount of tiny plastic pieces that are fun for kids to play in but due to static cling a disaster to clean up afterwards. Hardware: I picked up the stainless steel bolts from ACE hardware.
  20. I talked to a couple folks during a DE day who managed to install the BK bracket w/o removing the seat, but they did remark it was a bit of a squeeze. I think they loosened the front of the seat somehow and then tilted it back to get access.
  21. Just keep in mind that tread wear ratings do not compare between manufacturers. There are no standards for them apparently. I have had tires with a 140 rating last just as long as those with a number twice that high. The 40k warranty on the other hand is amazing and close to unbelievable (on a 996, especially the rears).
  22. See my chains of questions on this problem. I have almost exactly the same problem. You clutch is on the way out, warped clutch disc or pressure plate. Shortly after that happened we believe the diaphragm spring died and the clutch started slipping. Not sure whether this is a common failure sequence. Let me know what quote you get for a clutch job. So far, the local quotes varied from 3kUS$ to 1.5kUS$ at P dealers.
  23. I haven't had to replace mine yet on my 02C4S, but in reading many posts on the subject of clutch replacement it costs around $1100 for the complete clutch job, i.e. parts and labor. Parts are around 4-500 including pressure plate, clutch disk, and throw-out bearing. Labor around $600. If you need to replace flywheel, that runs another $1,000. Others who have recently treplaced theirs can quote you precise $$'s. Demosan For my 02 C2 (see my other message), I was quoted ~9 hours of labor and about 1000US$ for parts, for a total around 3k$ at the Porsche dealer. An indie quoted m
  24. That sounds like a reasonable diagnosis. Is this a warranty item? So far I have not been too lucky for P to step warranty anything clutch related. I have the pre-owned extended warranty which is about to expire (figures). I have a regular 2002 C2. I gather my choices for clutch replacement are as follows: 1) Replace with OEM item 2) Replace with Turbo Clutch 3) Replace with Sport Clutch (which comes with a lighter flywheel). I am inclined to do 1 or 2. Any experiences in the benefits and downsides of 2? How much heavier is the clutch application? How does it affect driveabil
  25. The clutch saga continues: I had it checked out at the dealer and they believe either the clutch material disintegrated or the pressure plate warped. Neither one is of course covered under any sort of warrantee. However, the plot thickens. On my drive home I accelerated hard from one light, and the clutch pedal suddenly became very soft and the clutch started slipping. Any speculations on what may have happened? Pressure plate defective? I still feel this is not normal wear and tear. The clutch material was examined about 5k miles ago during an RMS replacement and found to have 50% ma
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