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FlashingBlade replied to FlashingBlade's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)To add to our collective knowledge, I figured it out...I didn't have a spare fuse when I posted my question earlier. It so happens that the PSE shares the fuse with the back up lights. The center conductor of the right back up lamp socket had broken off and then shorted out that circuit, taking down the power to the PSE button. I am now scratching my head on how to fix the socket. The wiring loom (996 631 446 00 superseded with a 01) can be had for an every day low price of about 150$. The sockets are not sold individually. My next action will be to twiddle with the remaining center conductor (bend it, put a spring on it), or move the unused fog lamp socket there. Suggestions welcome. By the way, I replaced the left lamp with a Silvania LED, and it it is WAY brighter.
This should be a quick and easy question to answer: Does your PSE button only click on the raised portion, or also on the depressed portion (like the other buttons)? My PSE button stopped working. If I push the raised portion, the LED just briefly flashes and does not close the mufflers. Now I don't recall whether both "sides" of the switch should work, or only one side before I start tearing the car apart. Question 2: is the B10 fuse the only fuse that the PSE mechanism relies upon? Incidentally, the back up light fuse (B5 IIRC) blew recently, not sure it's related. This is for a 2002 996 C2 with stock PSE but retrofitted PSE dash button. Thanks!
I was wondering whether anyone is using 225/40R18 on the fronts with 285/35R18 (stock is 30) on the rears on a 2002 996 C2? Will this negatively impact the ABS & PSM? Details: I have a 2002 996 C2 with 18" rims. Stock rear sizes are 285/30R18 except only 285/35R18 are available for the Michelin Pilot Super Sports. I have done the math, they are about 1/2" taller in radius, and 81.223 vs 77.698" in circumference 3 -4 % error on the odometer, but my odometer is 10% fast anyway, so I dont care. I have looked at the forums and have not found a definitive answer. The tire place does not want to mount them on the car. They called Porsche, and they advised against it. OTOH, Porsche also advises against non N rated tires...Local tuner says it's fine. Please advise.
Here are some additional questions: Where does the one touch logic live? Is it part of the motor assembly? Are the limit sensors in the motor or else where? Here is the reason why i am asking and what I have done so far: o cleaned some more o lubed the cables and tracks with a dry PTFE lubricant (found it Home Depot) o it now closes and opens smoothly o re trained per http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/56-sunroof-not-closing-properly/ But, the unit forgets the one touch operation after one cycle. Note that as part of the retraining, I had to follow both procedures, and at one limit the unit seems to be drawing a lot of current, dash lights dimmed. Looked for TSBs but did not find anything relevant. Hence the question above. Thanks.
If it is binding, is there a procedure to further diagnose it and fix it? What is the proper lubrication to use for the tracks and for the "ribbons" that slide inside the tracks? My suspicion is that it's just dirty or has insufficient luberication.
Yes, I did try to retrain. It worked for one cycle, and then decided to go stupid again. It really slows down half way closing, even when I hold down the deflector. Puzzled.
I have read all the articles on sunroof woes, but I still have some questions. Car: 2002 996 C2 Problem: one touch open not working, need to hold down switch and even then does not always want to close, slows down midway closing, generally seems slow What I have done: Cleaned the rails and tracks Put some light lube on various surfaces (Silicone on the surfaces, light oil on the cables) Disconnected the battery & retrained the sunroof -- which worked for one cycle Opened the gear box and relubed with lubriplate (be careful, the gears and small spring will fall out) Ran all this with a battery charger connected so as give full power to the motor All to no avail. Question: Is this likely to be an issue with the motor wearing out? It free wheeled fine with the gears removed. Or is there too much build up of internal friction with the cable mechanism? More lube and if so which? Is there a way to diagnose this before I start spending $$ on parts and labor? Thanks
An alternative is to use the bridgestone S-04 Pole Position, which does come in the correct sizes for the 996, and is rated #2 according to Tire Rack's Max Perf Summer, and rated a bit better than the PS2s. The only concern I have is that the surveys are based on a fairly low number. Any additional thoughts on these? Thanks
Has anyone changed their rear tires from Michelin PS2 285/30-18 to Super Sports 285/35-18? The SS's are less expensive and better regarded than the PS2s, but they don't come in a 285/30-18 size. I did the math (and browsed previous postings on the subject), and the 35s are about .5" taller in radius. I prefer not to go narrower to 265. Does it make that much of a difference in handling? What about acceleration? My speedometer is currently 10% fast, so this may bring it down, though it's the least of my concerns in all honesty. Thanks.
Addendum: USA 2002 996 C2 The location of the screws in Loren's picture was not the same for my car. I had two at the very bottom, three on top as show but also TWO on the sides, which were very hard to get to because the glove box door is in the way. You basically need a torx with a swivel head to get to those. Major pain, the rest was trivial.
The plot thickens...I took out the glove box and a little metal strip fell out that belongs to the little micro switch of the glove box. It probably got dislodges when I was installing the Hella Tire Pressure Monitoring system while routing the cable for the control to the glove box. I put the metal strip back on the micro switch, tested the switch with the glove box (it works), and then put the glove box back. Then I got stumped because the light wouldn't go out when I closed the glove box, even though I heard the distinct click of the micro switch. When I locked the doors and the hood (it was open for the trickle charger), the alarm did not beep meaning all is well. Apparently, when the hood is open the glove box light will also be on. Huh. Next I wondered whether the trunk light will be on when the glove box is open. I tried to convince my daughter to climb in there to check but she declined with some lame excuse. Instead I put my wireless bore scope in the trunk, and sure enough, that light goes on when you open the glove box. So, if you have a defective glove box switch, it's not sufficient to pull that bulb, but you also need to pull the one in the trunk, and possibly the one in the engine compartment. Ugh, bad design, probably tried to save couple pennies and put all those lights on a single control! That may explain some mysterious battery drains. By the way...the location of the screws in Loren's picture was not the same for my car. I had two at the very bottom, three on top as show but also TWO on the sides, which were very hard to get to because the glove box door is in the way. You basically need a torx with a swivel head to get to those. Major pain, the rest was trivial. I'll post a similar comment on those pages.
Thanks Loren. It looks like somethings broke off the micro-switch so that if fails to close when the glove box is shut. That also explains why my battery drained down after a couple of days of non use. I wonder why my searches did not find these notes.
My 2002 996 C2 beeps once when I arm the alarm, and I suspect the glove box switch because when I close the glove box, the light does not seem to go out. You can see the light shine through the seam between the airbag and dash. So far I have been unsuccessful in finding any instructions on how to remove the glove compartment, or where the switch could be, either on various forums or the documentation I have. Any help, diagrams, would help. Thanks.
After finding my tires almost flat (possibly due to a prank, i.e., no nails, no leaks), I decided to purchase a tire pressure monitoring retrofit system from Hella (model TC-400, from tirerack) for my 2002 996. I had originally intended to install it behind the center console, but the instructions recommend against it. I was wondering whether anyone has recommendations for alternative locations for the receiver, what wire I should tap for power, switched power and ground (are there spare locations in the fuse box?), and what a good location is for the display (glove box?) Thanks
It was the switch! I just replaced it, and all is well. It was a lot easier than I thought, give or take figuring out where to pull on things. If you do a search in this forum you'll see a variety of explanations and diagrams, but they don't mention some of the gotchas. To remove the housing the light switch is in requires pulling hard enough to overcome the force of the two clips (top and bottom). This is after you remove the screws of course. I used some combination of plastic "Trim and Molding Tool Set" from HarborFreight tools. To remove the switch you actually need to pull the illuminated ring from the front of the panel forward a bit. It's not obvious but that ring serves as a lock for the switch and just slides out (forward). After you slide it forward, you can twist out the switch. My diagnostic contribution is that if your headlights go out, pull one of your lights out (takes 2 seconds with the tool in your kit), and measure the voltage across pins 7 and 8 (upper left most two in my case when looking at the connector from the front of the car). Then take the other light out, and see what you get then. If the difference is large, it's probably the switch. BTW, the best price for the switch was at Sunset Porsche in Beaverton. Got the part in a day (80US$ + 9US$ shipping), which was well below Pelican (120US$) and the local P dealer (160US$ + tax). I guess BillG doesn't care how much things cost. Hope this helps.