mrmickeymouse

Not to sound uninformed, but what is the difference between S brake Calipers and standard calipers, maybe some sort of adaption on the Boxster carrier is needed. Might that be cheaper in the long run.... I bet milled rotors are going to be steep in the long run compared to S Brake rotors, maybe another vehicles rotors may work, I have read a recent article in Excellence were a Volvo throttle body was used on a 914, never even conceived such a setup... Food for thought...

I read an article on one of the Boxster boards where that person went into depth about the adjustments. I have looked at mine and the little feet seem to be adjustable. I would examine your's and you will probably be able to tell. One caveat though, each foot is adjustable, so therefore, there are many variations. I would keep to the one at a time. I would start with the back one first, since it seems to be a height related problem. Are you not able to trim your lights normally through the the ports in your trunk.

Is there a chance you photographed or documented the spacers and/or adapters that made you able to covert it.

Hi, My dilemma is since you are not in southern California, I cannot really help you. I believe by the sporadic operation it seems to be the fuel system. One part or another, When you say it takes a few cranks to get it to going originally, it sounded like fuel. I will stay with fuel, I have rarely seen sporadic spark, kind of either you have it or you don't. What you are explaining to me almost sounds like a vapor lock condition, used to happen to older cars with air in the fuel line. I thinks it is your original idea though, and that being the fuel pump. I will try to give you as much advice as I can from here, just because you hear the fuel pump doesn't mean your getting fuel. The buzzing when your key is turned on is your fuel pump switching on, good sign. It means the circuit is alive. Let me ask, now it that will not do anything [besides turn over] , do you still hear the fuel pump buzzing. When turned on to "idiot light" state. All lights on the dash are light [telling engine status].

Here is a better example. http://www.ppbb.com/boards/ppbbphp/showfla...true#Post763035 Hope this helps... Scott

Here is what you are looking at, or for: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=659

For my edification, won't the Boxster do this automatically, without the MAF being disconnected. Thanks, Scott

Hi, It sounds like a heat related component problem. Maybe the DME or something to that effect. I have never encountered this problem with a Boxster. I have however encountered this with other vehicles, and I would begin by checking fuel and spark. You will need to get it hot and then try to see if spark has gone away, or if fuel has stopped. Fuel is really easy to begin with, listen for a buzzing noise, when you turn the key to the position were the red lights [idiot lights] go on. If there is no noise then you may have a fuel pump problem. You would need to check voltage on the wires going to the fuel pump, maybe just use a test light. The spark would be more complicated, and I would advise having a Porsche friendly [reasonable priced-for diagnosis] shop check it for error codes which will or can show upon the PST2. If you feel bold then pull a plug and see if you get a spark jump [after putting a old spark plug-or a test HEI test plug] on the car and see if you get spark. I maybe way off with what I am saying, but it seems sensible and has gotten me through 30 years of car diagnosis. What you are asking is hard to do thousands of miles away on another continent. I hope I helped. Hopefully others have encountered this problem and can tell you directly what the problem maybe. Scott

Sounds really good, but is it only adaptable to a 2003 + Boxster or will it retrofit to any year and model. Kind of rice burner like, off of one those V-Tec motors with a 3 inch exhaust. :rolleyes:

Thank you, You made it simple, good it will work with a little elbow grease, seems simple enough. Can you tell me which connector supports the oil pressure sender, blue, white, or black. and which slot or pin.

I am sorry for your problems, but I think you have answered all of my questions. I believe if I terminate the traces going to the oil pressure and the amperage gauges I can make it work. I will have to try to either get a broken 996 console/gauges and see if my voltage inputs are remarkable, along with the oil pressure. Please correct me if I am wrong, everything worked in relation to your 996 gauges beyond the LED. If the basic Boxster functions are there, adding the oil and amp will be a matter of connecting [soldering traces] wires to the idiot lights, and then installing the proper sender. My last question :eek: [hopefully] what will have to be removed to support the 996 console, and will it fit without much reverse engineering.

Do you mean you cleaned your MAF, or is the OBD code you mentioned an O2 error. I do not have my OBD codes handy.

If you could plug it back in and see if the 996 console oil pressure is working, it seems it would be academic to further evaluate the consoles. Because everything would work and the consoles are the same. The only hang up would be you might need to get the proper sender installed in your Boxster. I have seen early VW senders operate in a dual duty mode, as a idiot light and a temp sender, weird but it worked. If you find the oil pressure working also, Outstanding. Your only investment would be your time and the console, and a oil pressure sender. Swap led panels? [if you can] I can't determine that from here, you would need to determine if the board is plug and play with the LED, and/or hard soldered to the board. If you can find out if the IC board [green board everything is plugged into, you can see the edges in your pictures lower portion of the picture [light bulb receptors] is multi-layered, it would tell me if you should mess around with soldering. Multilayer=no go, single layer=go. If you want to e mail with your number and I will call you, to tell you what I know. [whatever that may be ;) ]

I wish I could see if your amperage gauge was working, your oil pressure looked pegged. To much voltage ? trimable. Could I see the back, does it look like you could terminate the traces to the amperage and the oil pressure, and maybe jump it to the "idiot" light wiring. That would be my plan "B" if I could not get the gauges to work in a stock configuration. What conclusions do you draw from what you have done so far, the digital screen is a no biggy. Does the wiring exist to support the new gauges. Thanks, Scott

I believe that is subjective, and not a given. I just wanted help :help: My previous entry was only meant to be polite, and to draw help, and not opinions. :soapbox: .

Outstanding I have the Guru's attention [no disrespect intended] :D , would the busses match or did they. I have never taken mine apart to see the pin out. If they are matching and everything seems to look right. It should work, but if the traces lead to other places. Then it would not function.I would need to get a 996 console and check the resistance at each trace in order to figure out if I was going to down the right path. If there are any microprocessors on board the console, then I would need a schematic to figure it out. The obvious conclusion is, you would have at least 8 new traces 2 for each gauge[2+2 for lighting], unless it had a common grounded board. Enough of that, do you know if it would work, or were you just taking a chance. I was considering the same thing but using maybe a female connector to jump the console buss to the sender. Kind of "Hot wiring" it to see if the gauge operated simplistically or microprocessor wise. If the latter, then oh well... to much time it would be easier to put gauges in the bat wing. Maybe just solder the leads off of the two 996 gauges [amperage and oil pressure] and then attach the traces to the sender, then it would work [old stereo repair days.] Sorry to be so long winded, but if someone had the back off both , and if they could send me a picture I might be able to figure it out. I would be more then happy to post my findings [conclusions], if I could draw some. :rolleyes: Then again I may not have any idea what I am talking about, because all of my assumptions are based on a conjecture.

Is there anyway to integrate the 996 gauge cluster into the boxster, it would make a really good looking, and neat instrument panel. It would supply the oil pressure and amperage. :rolleyes:

I guess by the response, :huh: either it was not a good idea or there is not a "simple idea" available. Thanks anyway

Can anyone please tell me how we can put a shift light in the dash or external of the dash; that does not require another instrument [besides the light-not another tach.] Maybe a simple pin out, off of the fuse block. If I knew which fuse activated at maximum RPM, I could [might] figure out the light. Maybe a 12V light activation for some signal to the ECU if it was tapped that would not create a grounding effect. I do not want to alter an ECU reading or incur a possible ECU burn out. I hate hitting the Rev limiter and finding out the hard way... I hope I made sense... Thanks to all, ahead of time..... :clapping:

It seems like they accomplish the same task in a different fashion, but they both operate correctly, I am to assume. If the stock shifter is shorter does it interfere with anything, bat wing etc.... any input is greatly appreciated, this hack saw is getting heavy.... :D

I don't mean to be a pain, but what would be the downside of doing it, it seems pretty straight forward and easy - to top it off. If they have the same sprung weight [almost], The only bias I can see would be the rear not flowing with the front, but I am not a Porsche engineer, so I defer to the audience. weight 1998-1999 911 Carrera 1320 kg wheelbase All models 2350 mm Track (front / rear) all models 1455 / 1500 mm Length, Width All models length: 4430 mm width: 1765 mm _________________________________ Porsche Boxster Overall length 171.0 in. (4340 mm) Overall width 70.1 in. (1780 mm Curb weight (manual) 2822 lbs. (1280 kg) TIA Scott

I broached this subject on another board, but received no input. I have studied the geometry involved in the B & M shifter, and it seems like they have done exactly this but sell it. Can it be this easy, does it really make a big difference, does it actually making the shifts shorter, geometrically yes, but actually ? Please, let me know, I sit with hacksaw in hand, Any downsides.... :unsure: TIA Scott

I wonder good different or bad different, I have set but I do not want to dis assemble mine, and find out bad different. :eek:

Do the front struts on a 996 fit on a 986, I have heard Yes and No; they look the same [but valving is the question?]. The 996’s are a little heavier, but I heard the 996 and the 986 are the same from the cockpit forward. Any help would be most appreciative. TIA