Scouser

Thats the one. Thanks Loren Garage! wow I didn't see that before. A cool idea. Have to go take a load of fotos first. Cheers, Berny

Gee Loren all I do is ask you for things........ I need the part number for a console switch. I think the new C4S has it. It's the one u can use to switch the tail up or down. It has pictures of tail up/tail down. I am going to do the mod when I get the switch. Why you ask..... Well. The police here in the UK have cottoned on to the fact that Porsche cars have tail lifts that lift at 75 MPH. The speed limit here is 70. So if they see it up they got ya. However, apparently if you have the switch, all you got to say is you love posing with your tail up and I was only doing 50 ocifer....honest...see I just switched it :D Cheer, Berny

Jeff, Do thes pics apply to the 996. I mean there may be some differences but the concepts are the same. Right? Berny <Brilliant explanation by the way>

Hi Loren, Is there any chance you could send me a copy of that TSB? I want to be armed with everything and anything when I meet up with my dealer next week to discuss the final Warranty/No-Warranty outcome of my RMS failure. Cheers much, Berny

I am real happy with my airbox mods. I don't know if I can honestly feel any increase in horsepower but throttle response does feel much better at take off. But I am not sure if that's from the added feel good factor you get from the extra sound.....which I love to hear with the top down.

Jeff, that's good photoshop work. I am almost wondering if they are for real. I belive this is the way to change them <borrowed from friends at funncarsonline>

Loren, what would we do without you. Cheers again.

Hey Pat, Them wheels man, them wheels. Lookin good! Here's mine. Not a very good picture. But maybe next time you see em the'l be dorned with silver calipers. Cheers,

Thanks guys, Currently mine are black. I just got to figure how to install them. I don't think it looks too hard. I recall seeing a posting somewhere on how to bleed the system. My guess is that's the hardest part. Cheers, berny

I am still awaiting to hear from my dealer if my RMS will be replaced under warranty. However, I was just wondering, when they do the RMS I will naturally have the clutch replaced (first time in 27k miles). But should I go for the standard Factory clutch unit or should I go for something better? I don't track my car so I am likely to get longer life in my clutch than those that do. But do some clutches last longer than others? Finally, any suggestions (URLs) to go to buy them? Cheers, Berny

Hi Loren, I have these silver calipers up for sale. But I am now considering fitting them to my car. Coupla questions for ya: 1) is there any difference in the red, silver, black calipers. I mean does one set have a better stopping ability or are the colours purely cosmetic. My dealer said they are all the same. Just different colours. 2) Don't suppose you have a DIY fitment guide? Cheers, Berny

Hey Don, Good to see the other side of your garage is like everyone elses......untidy :P I have looked everywhere. Believe me, I can't find it. However, I have found a watch my wife lost two years ago :lol: Thanks for the update on the alu stuff. I will let you know how I go. Biggest hurdle at the mo is to see if my dealer fixes my RMS......after that I will do the alu bits. Talking of which. do you still have the alu seat mechanism bits your were selling? I just noticed the Carerra decal on the back seat board. What a great idea. Way cool. I'm gonna do the same. Hope you don't mind me stealing these ideas off you all the time but your car is the ikon for us cab guys.

Well, my dealer has confirmed the inevitable. However, so far no quibbles. I am impressed with the process. My dealer took pictures and made a case report and will send it up the chain to see if they will do it under warranty via what he called "their good will terms". He thinks I have a good case. It will take about a week before I know the outcome. Here's hoping....... will keep you informed. Now the question is, if they agree to do it under warranty....will I get a new engine :clapping: Here's hoping #2....

Don, I beleive you have painted some (or possible all) of your alu bits yourself. As you know I am going to attempt this too. I bought on ebay a centre console to practice with. I have some questions: 1) This center console is painted like mine. Should I paint straight over it or scrape the old paint off with some paint remover or something alike? 2) Do I need to use a base/under coat? 3) Should I use a professional spray gun (get em fairly cheap at the hardware store) or will a simple spray can do? 4) Can you suggest a color code to use? I like the metalic look. 5) What about topcoat? 6) Any other gotcha's I should know about?

Hey Don, This is an interesting article but I think it is also accademic. My previous car an Audi A6 quattro's manual said words to the effect that you should drive off immediately the engine has been started. Don't wait for it to warm up. It also said that you should not break the engine in but should have the car's first service at 1000 miles....I guess that's an oil change. This more or less follows these guidelines. However, This article is contrary to what Porsche suggest for their cars.....well at least the 996. In summary, this article says: when you get your new car you shoud break it in hard. Change the oil after 20 miles and don't use synthetic. From thence on you should let the car warm up to operating temperature before driving. This sounds good but I can't help feel that if PAG say do it differently, we should follow ther guidelines. After all, PAG would have thouroughly tested and benchmarked their engine design in laboratory conditions many times over and they will know the best way to break in and run their engines based on exprimental results. Also, according to this article, Fuel injection tuning and cam timing concepts are myths as far as performance tuning goes. I am no technical expert but I find this hard to believe. It seems to me that you could also read this as: drive the **** out your new car and use crappy oils. If you do this it will keep us service engineers in employement :clapping: Maybe I should hsut up cos I don't know what I am talking about: ;) Interesting reading though. Berny

Good one Loren, That's it. However, they are a terrble fit and I can see how they got lost in the first place. I must admit they do have a use as an anti-scratch device. Mine has a few marks where the lever slipped while I tried to prize them out. Anyway, I have found only one so after all this I think I will live without them. But thanks heaps anyway.

Loren your .02cents prognosis is spot on the nail. But...... You said "ask yourself what is a reasonable mileage (or engine hours) that you must have before you are willing to pay for a repair such as RMS replacement" IMHO, for a car of this calibre and cost, I wouldn't expect to see such serious problems occuring in anything less than very high mileage. My car is barely 3 years old, and it hasn't clocked 26,000 miles yet. It's a baby. It's never been tracked and its been meticulously serviced by my local Porsche dealer and its garaged. I only use it at weekends. So I certainly would not expect it to be suffering anything mechanically serious. In fact at 26k, it's the last thing on my mind. I see lots of posts complaining of clutches going at only 12000 miles. I think this is also ludicrous. Shure, if you track your car then this sort of thing can be expected but not if its a general street car. There will also, always be some problamatic cars. I have a friend who bought a new BMW 330ci. He hadn't done 100 miles in it and the engine blew up. 500 miles later the replacement engine blew up! He put his foot down and they gave him a new car. Since then he has not had a problem. I just sold my 2.6ltr Audi A6 quattro. It had 60,000 miles on the clock. The most serious thing it had done was new front rotors. My bet is that car will do 100,000 miles and the engine will still be as good as it was when I bought it new. I expect my 996 to do better. I mean, this car is not only £65, 000 but it's also leading edge technology and German engineering at its best to boot. So my 0.02 cents worth is this: By bringing out a TSB on this RMS problem, they have openly admited to it being a design flaw. Rest assured I will approach the dealer in a civil manner in the hope that I can coerce them into fixing it under warranty (A new engine would be real nice though :clapping: ). However, if they try to blow me a rasberry I will go up the chain. And as a last resort a class action law suit. If my problem turns out to be the RMS, I sure hope they just go ahead and fix it under warranty. If they don't they just lost a customer. I wouldn't even think about buying another Pcar again.

Loren, Don, yes that;s the parts. I have just one of them though. The other must still be in the car somewhere. Just after I read your posting I looked the top over thoroghly. Couln't figure where they go. So, I decided to take the back of the carpet up behind the top. The bit where the top control box is hidden. Still could not see where they go. Then checked the roll bar area. Still nothing. Very strange. One thing though, the diameter of the curved bit fits perfectly on the roll bars so maybe they have something to do with it. But then they are also the same diameter as the little circular bits that you pop back in the back parcel shelf where the top sprigots lock. I give up..... :( My top works fine though.

Don, thanks for the tip Don't worry I will. I'm just 6 weeks out of warranty, The car was Major serviced last November but I've only done 3000 miles since then. I am hoping I can throw this at them. I bought the car privately 3 years ago with 675 miles on the clock. The seller went bankrupt and I got a great deal on what I considered a brand new car. Since then, never had any problems....touch wood. But it has been serviced by the same dealer since. The oil leak is tiny. I mean there is maybe two drops on the garage floor and I had to look real hard to find where it is coming from. I am no expert but from the back looking under the car, it's coming from what looks like the oil drain plug. Dead centre. So I am hoping that that is what the problem is. But I will have the dealer figure it out. You mention cluch/flywheel. My car has always had what I consider to be a sort of whining from the clutch. Especially in first gear. I just assumed this is normal. My dealer has never said anything about it and I assume they test drive the car at service. Off topic: I did Loren's "open cab top in motion" mod last week. When I lifted the back of the top I found a part that I can't figure where it came from. Loren suggested you might know. I put a picture in this thread: http://www.renntech.org/index.php?act=ST&f=21&t=38 any ideas?

Oh dear! I also noticed a drop or two on the garage floor. Is this serious stuff Loren? I mean my car is just out of warranty. :( I recall you mentioned in a previous post something about if they find a particular problem, you get a new engine! Is this the same problem? Also I guess it doesn't apply to out of warranty cars anyway.

Thanks again Loren. :cheers:

Hey Loren, Any chance you could post that to me too? Cheers, Berny

Hi Loren, Did the mod, it took all of about 15 minues. Works a treat. The pack of wires is extremely difficult to sift through. I was lucky that the grey/pink one was on the top. I could not find the brown/yellow wire. It must be in the middle of the bunch. I decided not to go there. One thing, when I unclipped the tension cables and lifted the back of the top, I found a piece of something. The part number on it is 996.563.421.01. Any idea what it is from? Anyway, thanks for the great tip and a really useful site.

Got ya. OK, weather permitting (and it could be 2010 before we see sun again) I will have a go at "your" mod this weekend. I will also experiment (multimeter in hand :-) with dropping the brown/yellow to grnd. I am thinking if it works (dropping brown/yellow to ground), it may be worth looking at putting a relay in place to drop it to grnd temporarily. But it would need a sense wire. Oh well.... Anyway thanks again Loren.

Thanks Loren but I got confused again....It's this American/English thing again....... The parking brake wire (like the speed wire) go to the convertible top control unit (computer The parking brake. Is that the foot brake or the handbrake? You mention both in the same post. The parking brake is the handbrake in the UK. This top control unit (computer), is this the ECU you are talking about or the control unit at the back of the top? But I think Jeff (Tool Pants) makes a good point -- perhaps just bringing this wire to ground (only during operation) will fool the controller Do you mean the wire that needs to be cut or another wire that Jeff is talking about on a relay. Totally confused here? The correct color code for the handbrake wire (MY00 only) is Brown/Yellow Thanks for that. I take it this is the wire that is GREY/PINK in your description but on my 2000 Cab its Brown/Yellow? I guess, I am confused because your instructions and Jeffs although provide the same mod are different. But they are for two different cars. But I wanted to know if there is a similar relay in the 996 that Jeffs mod could be done on. But if not, are you saying that it may be possible to ground the GREY/PINK wire (or my Brown/Yellow one) to make it work without the handbrake? Also, which side of the cut wire is perhaps groundable? Here's to you again.. :cheers: