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Posts posted by demosan

  1. Often when I'm going up a hill, applying throttle at say 25mph in 2nd gear, I get an engine knocking noise that's very sharp like a metal-on-metal noise. Tap-tap-tap. My indy and dealer confirmed that the noise is engine knock. I can reproduce it on this local stretch of road near my home. It happens at lower revs and when I apply the throttle say after a shift from 2nd into 3rd. Less so on the 1 to 2 shift since I usually shift at higher revs (4K ish). I've never been able to reproduce the metal tap noise with aggressive shifts at higher rpms whether it's WOT or partial.

    I run premium fuel all the time no doubt. Chevron or Shell here in Seattle. I asked them if this is something that I should be concerned about (wear and tear) and both places said not so necessarily so, just keep driving and keep the revs up.

    Is it Seattle fuel, my particular engine, or what? I'd rather not have this noise. Running race gas to mix is impractical for me. I have a life outside of my car so going out of my way for it is just plain nonsensical. Based on my search, it looks like it's none too common with the M96, though I have heard of another local M97 owner experiencing the same thing.

    I want to just enjoy the drive with peace of mind.



    I have experienced the same type of noise in my Saab Aero and found it was the plugs needing replacement. The car manual said I could use regular as well and I tried mid-grade as well as premium ( Chevron as well) and still had the noise until the plugs were replaced after only 15K miles. Never had the the problem in my 02 C4S running Chevron premium fuel FWIW. How many miles does your current plugs have on them??

    Good Luck!! Dave :cheers:

  2. My wife had the car out over the weekend. When she parked it, steam started pouring from the engine compartment and she was sure she had just destroyed my car. Recently I had some coolant dump out of the overflow, so I figured it was the same thing after some questioning over the phone. I have a MY 996 Cab with the original coolant tank cap, so I knew it needed to be replaced. When this happened to me it took maybe a quart of coolant to refill the tank. This time it took over 3 1/2 gallons of coolant/water mix. The wife said it spit out a lot of fluid, but I figured it just looked like more than it really was. Is this normal with the cap issue? It took me several heat cycles of tank fills to finally get the air out and the fluid through the system, but it now seems to have settled. I'm going to keep an eye out to make sure I don't have a tank issue, but is there anything else I should look for. If I had known it was going to take so much coolant, I would have done a full system flush!


    Will, if you had to refill the cooling system with 3 1/2 gallons you were more than half empty. YOur wife must have had a warning indicator come on to inform coolant was low?? If not, a sensor in the cooling resevoir tank must be bad for one and more imprtantly there must have been a catastrophic leak somewhere to lose 3+ gallons ?? Hopefully, there has been no engine damage, i.e warping of cylinder heads, etc as a result of overheating. I would get the cooling system pressure tested to diagnose if the reservoir tank or one the many hoses has failed.

    Good Luck!! :cheers: demosan

  3. Let the dealer check out the cause of the rattle, he can decide if the cat. needs replacement in warranty or not.

    This is "exactly" what happened last time when the cat failed, except it was on the driver's side. This time it's clearly on the passenger side. I am not one to often jump to quick diagnosis - but I have enough confidence in myself to bet on this being the other cat. (2002 w/39k miles, go figure) I Have an appt Monday morning at local dealer - we'll see what they do - but they're not the most responsive bunch. I used to drive 60 miles to the next closest dealer 'cause they were so great to work with... but with this economy - they closed down in December - they're no longer in business....

    Thx for the thought - if they choose to wait for it to fail and set off the CEL, I'm still interested if anyone has any thoughts about whether there could be any issues with running hard, at a DE with a CEL on from the cat.


    I believe it is hard to say as to wheter there could be some damge to the ECU as a result of the CAT on one side being bad, especially when you are driving the car in a DE event and pushing it hard. The down-stream O2 sensor from the CAT will be working hard to let the ECU know there are excessive emissions ( which sets the CEL). Not sure what state you are in, but here in CA the cats are mandated to be under warranty for 7 or 8 years and 70K miles so you may just under the wire here. Other states are different , but I do not beieve under 7 years warranty.

    My $.02

    Good Luck with the dealer!! Demosan :cheers:

  4. Recently I installed HR Sport Srings on my 03 911 Carrera. As a result, now the front of the car is 1/2 inch higher than the rear. I'm presently running the OEM tire setup (Frt 225x40x18 -- Rr 285x30x18) QUESTION: Is there any potential road compliance problem if I replaced my front tires witha 225x30 or 35x18 setup Thanks!
    Not sure how long it has been since you installed the HR Sport springs, but it is not uncommon they will settle over a week or two and you may find the difference may change. I would wait a bit before making a tire size change for compensation. Have you spoken to HR to see what they say about the ride height change??

    Good Luck!! Demosan

  5. You should try re-programming the DME before replacing it.

    You will need a PST2 or PIWIS tester and your car's IPAS codes.

    I've had both Porsche of West Houston and Porsche of North Houston tell me that once the computer has problems, there's no way to reprogram it and that I'd have to buy a new computer.

    They've both also said there's no way to use a used computer, which I know is wrong because I've read tholyak's posts on the topic.

    I just wish I knew somebody in Houston with a PST2 or PIWIS.

    I Would search for an independentr shop with either of the testers Loren references and trya re-program before spending $3G's for a new DME. Indie may have a good source for a refurbished or reclaim source for lot cheaper than the $3G.

    Good Luck!! Demosan

  6. 2002 911 C2 Coupe 35,500 miles

    I was driving to work this morning accelerating up to 70 (RPM's might have been 4500) when the oil warning image flashed on my dashboard (image of the oil can). It was there at most for 1/4 of a second and then was gone. I slowed immediately and got off the highway. It then flashed one more time. In neither case did any trouble light on the bottom of the dash display come on.

    Luckily I was less than a mile from the Scottsdale Porsche dealer when this happened and drove the car cautiously there.

    A service tech checked oil level which was fine and then checked the on-board computer for any service warning which was also clean. Thought it just might be a sensor that might be starting to fail. I've had the car for a year and never had this or any other issue.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance!

    Sounds like an oil pressure sensor beginning to fail. Did you see your oil preswsure gauge giving you any erratic readings when the oil light came on??


  7. For the past 2 months my low beams were having trouble turning on. I would turn them on and they would sit there blipping, along with every blip you could here an interference over the stereo.

    Just a couple days ago it got to the point where they would not turn on, and even the car itself would not start! I remember struggling for several minutes, messing around with turning them off and on fast, and pulling on the high beam switch to somehow magically start the car.

    But alas today, as I got off work in the freezing cold weather, the bastard car would not frickin start at all. Every trick I tried did not work, I even walked home and drove my other car to a hardware store to pickup some torx to try and unplug the headlight switch to inspect it. I tried jumpstarting it too and that did not work either.

    At this point I have no idea whats going on, if I turn the key in the ignition to On, the airbag light comes on and some weird clicking sound can be heard and the door lock light flashes spasmatically. I really would like to get the POS started so I can drive it to a dealership and have them fix it. I really want to avoid towing it (it's now sitting dead on a compound that has restricted access, so getting the ***** off the lot will require some coordination with the guards).

    Does anyone have any suggestions on what to try next? I'm thinking its the ignition....

    Thanks for any help. Luckily the car can sit there for a while and the guards shouldn't care.

    I agree with you it sounds like a classic ignition switch problem. Usually you possibly could wiggle the key in the ignition and get it catch to start, but given the problem being tw omonths old the switch may be a 'hard faliure".

    Good Luck!! demosan

  8. I have a 1999 Carrera and recently replaced the headlights to a "Euro Effects 8000K Platinum Series Bulb" that has a draw of 55 W and output of 125 Watt. I've read the manual and it says to replace with bulbs with the same wattage, which I did. I was wondering if the 125 watt ouput would melt the housing at all. This is my first post (of many newbie questions) so sorry if this was already discussed before. Thanks for your help in advance.



    I don't believe you should have a problem. If the "new" bulb is within the 55W spec. the 125W reference is more about light intensity than electrical draw on the headlight circuit. Because the color you have chosen is 8000K they are referencing the increase in perceived higher light intensity, i.e, the apparent equivalent to a 125 W bulb?? If it were truely 125W you would be blowing fuses immediately.

    Demosan :cheers:

  9. Check with the folks at Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost) for a better pricing (I quote list here because that is all I have).

    i got my box rebuilt and upgraded by GBOX in colorado.... 3 day turnaround.... $3550 us inlcuding new diff plates. modified first and second gear landing for improved shift engagement as well.

    talk to Josh


    5757 Arapahoe Ave.

    Unit C1 East

    Boulder, Colorado 80303

    Phone: 303.440.8899


    Does GBOX offer any warranty with the $3550 rebuild price??


  10. 2000 996 Cab C2

    Can someone guide me to stops to remove the center surround? Attached is a stock pic for reference.

    Thank you!



    No screws, just a "snap-in" piece. As RFM stated, start in lower left corner and gently pry out. I use a plastic "putty" knife to pry to begin as it won't scratch either the surround or dash if you're careful.

    Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:

  11. Hi All,

    I just installed the ROW M030 suspension on my 2001 C2 Cab. I remember seeing alignment specs before but can't seem to find them anymore. I want to be able to give the shop the proper specs rather than relying on them to have it.



    2001 C2 Cab 6spd


    To quote our esteemed moderator and Porsche Guru Loren, "search is your friend"....... Look here courtesy of Loren http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...alignment+specs


  12. This is a weird behavior I saw today. I have a '04 C4S with the Stock CDR-23 (no Bose).

    I stopped at a corner store to grab a drink. When I got out of the car I know the radio was off. I know this because I'm currently using a FM modulator to listen to my iPhone. So when I disconnect, I hear static until the radio shuts off.

    When I got back into the car and put my key in, the radio turned on. This was before I turned the ignition...

    Anyone else ever see this behavior? I'm chalking it up as some kind of bug (or maybe I did ever so slightly turn the ignition). Just kind of weird. Not use to something turning on unexpectantly... just turning off ;)

    Sounds like the classic problem with the ignition switch going bad!! Have you noticed any irregularities with the dash lights just before ignition ??

    Do a searc hfor ignition switch and you will a DYI as well as many other posts on the subject.

    My $.02 Demosan

  13. Hi all,

    My mind might be playing tricks with me but it seems the raod noise from the front of my car is getting louder - it increases with the speed of the car - nothing really below 15mph - but there after increases with speed and is worse on better surfaces, sounds almost a rhythmic hum - question is whether this is...

    increased road noise as my fronts are close to replacement (Pirelli pzeros; or

    Something more sinister.

    There isnt any knocking on turning that I can hear

    any suggestions would be appreciated


    2003 C4S 48k miles


    I would guess with the Pirelli tires needing replacement, that is the source of the increased road noise. I had the same issue with both front and rears when my Pirelli's were worn and ready for replacement as the Pirelli's are notorious for noise.

    I would suggest you do do a search for tire replacement threads on this site and you will get several making recommendations for other manufacturers ( other than Pirelli) that have worked out well for folks.


  14. Just wanted to show everyone the P car I found to replace my C2 coupe iI lost in an accident (my fault).

    It's a 2000 C2 Cab with lots of goodies. Body kit, GT seats, Fabspeed mufflers, rediculous Kenwood sound system, 19 in HRE wheels, new Sachs clutch with RMS replace and light flywheel, H&R springs, twin tip exhaust tips, smoke lenses front and back, xenons, custom foot pedals, 996 floor mats and more little stuff.

    Car is nealy perfect. Has some curb rash on the rear wheels which I'm going to repair immediately. Also has some paint chips on the front bumper. I got it for $30K with 60k miles. It Blue Books for $39k. All records and service and clean codes (no over revs) Clean report from my mechanic.

    Here are some pics. I was not looking for a Cab but this one was too good to pass up for the money.

    I'll pick it up in about a week. Have to wait for my check from the insurance company from the other car.

    Let me know what you think



    Very nice looking car with some nice mods!! Has it had the 60K service yet??

    Good luck with it and watch those Socal tunnels!!

    demosan :cheers:

  15. it is learning & adjusting,,,

    Drive it a little more, she will be fine.

    Thanks. What is the DME learning or adjusting? It's not like an automatic where optimal shift points can be "learned", is it?


    Sort of!! My understanding is the Porsche learning algorithim uses 5 "drive cycles" that allows the DME to look at the various O2 sensors performance ( and tolearances) as well as the MAF characteristics t ooptimize the engine performance ( and emmison parameters).

    As others have said, drive it for a few days and you be back to better tha nnormal with your new DME.

    Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:

  16. My 02 C4S has a rattle that is driving me crazy (like so many others). I know it's difficult to isolate an interior rattle, but if I didn't know better I'd say it is a speedometer cable noise, which seems to be coming from the passenger rear. Checked the seatbelt tensioner, rear speaker, and since the sunroof is being repaired was able to take that off the list of possibilities. Only happens when going over rough road, whether accelerating or decelerating. Any new (or old) ideas? I've checked out the forum re muffler, cat, windows, mirror, and as far as I can tell these aren't the culprits. Any help really appreciated -- tired of turning the radio up to drown out the noise.


    I am not sure it would be the speedo cable if it only happens over bumpy roads. One common "noise" issue is the baffles in the mufflers break loose inside and create various rattle like sounds.

    I haven't encounteres this in my car and am not sure how many miles you have on your car. DO a search of muffler noise and will probably find some threads tha tcover this issue in more detail.

    Good Luck!! demosan

    demosan (and anyone else with a similar rattle),

    I've finally figured out the rattle problem. First, I would have sworn that it was coming from the passenger side rear, but it's actually the driver side rear seat belt retracting mechanism -- the device that you can't get to without removing the rear interior panel. I haven't done this yet, but no matter what the problem is (not securely attached, broken mechanism, etc.) it's out of here. For me, the whole rear "seat" set is totally unusable, so it's all going. Less weight, less hassle and one less rattle. Now, on to the driver's side seat belt adjusting mechanism, which squeaks and rattles too. Hope this helps anyone with a similar problem.



    Glad to hear you found the solution to those d*** rattles. I never have had anyone is the back seat of my C4S, so that's one I don't suffer from.

    THanks for sending this closure thread.


  17. I've noticed a pretty distinct sulfur smell when I open up the front boot of the car ('04 996 C4S).

    I'm not really sure what is causing the smell. Is it the battery?

    Thanks in advance for any ideas.


    Most likely the battery as it uses sulphuric acid ( and water) as the elctrolyte. I would check to see if the battery is low on water ( use distilled to top off). Is this the original battery?? If so, it may be getting close to replace.

    Demosan :cheers:

  18. My 02 C4S has a rattle that is driving me crazy (like so many others). I know it's difficult to isolate an interior rattle, but if I didn't know better I'd say it is a speedometer cable noise, which seems to be coming from the passenger rear. Checked the seatbelt tensioner, rear speaker, and since the sunroof is being repaired was able to take that off the list of possibilities. Only happens when going over rough road, whether accelerating or decelerating. Any new (or old) ideas? I've checked out the forum re muffler, cat, windows, mirror, and as far as I can tell these aren't the culprits. Any help really appreciated -- tired of turning the radio up to drown out the noise.


    I am not sure it would be the speedo cable if it only happens over bumpy roads. One common "noise" issue is the baffles in the mufflers break loose inside and create various rattle like sounds.

    I haven't encounteres this in my car and am not sure how many miles you have on your car. DO a search of muffler noise and will probably find some threads tha tcover this issue in more detail.

    Good Luck!! demosan

  19. here is one more pic


    Sounds like you have come through the experience without any major injuries and for that be thankful. Reassuring the car held-up structurally as well as it did, although it certainly appears to be totalled as you mentioned earlier.

    Good luck with the insurance negotiations and think positively about your next P-car. Lot's of choices out there these days with buyer's pricing advantage!!

    Demosan :cheers:

  20. when i check the oil level what should i trust ? The dip stick or the oil sensor that is giving me the data on my dash (10 bars)?

    +1 on perryvina's comments. When I change oil in my car I use the dipstick as the "gold standard" and the electrnic sensor registers 1 one bar lower than full when car has sat for a while and all oil has all drained to the sump.



    Many of you asked to be kept up to date on the outcome of my topic. I'm pleased to report that I was successful in my legal action through the English County Court system against the supplying OPC and the Judge awarded me compensation and costs. My claim was based on the Sale and Supply of Goods Acts 1979 and 1994 and the responsibility of suppliers within those Acts.

    The formula he used to calculate the amount of compensation was based on his judgement that the original engine should have lasted for at least 200,000 miles before requiring any significant work and expense. He confirmed that I was absolutely within my rights to purchase the replacement engine and claim compensation.

    If any of you would like further details I'd be happy to oblige if you send me a PM. The case was a public one so I'm not restricted to what I can comment on about the proceedings.

    Kind regards,



    All I can say to you is "to the victor go the spoils...." Congrats to you and your perseverence has paid off!! I ( along with many others I'm sure) has followed your thread for months and I applaude your determination and resolve to "make it right".

    demosan :cheers:

  22. Hi all,

    I dropped my key last night, & find that the remote does not work now,

    well just the light it flash's red when pressed?

    I've tried everything from taking out the battery & reversing it around for 10 seconds,

    to inserting the key into the ignition and pressing the remote button,

    (as Porsche center said to do) and noting?

    Any other solutions anybody, I find it hard to believe, that dropping a car key

    worth over €200 on the ground breaks it, and I don't really want to buy a new key,

    only got this key back in january 08.

    Thanks in advance guy's.


    Only possible cause I can think of may be a cracked solder joint on the small PC card in the key remote. You could carefully look for the bad joint visually or possibly by pressing the circuit card while trying to unlock the car. If it works then you know it is a solder connection and if you can use a solder iron, not a big deal to resolder before you order a new remote.

    Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:

  23. I'll do the battery disconnect for 10 minutes. I just took it out for a 15 mile drive, all seemed good after I temporarily adjusted the height of the throttle stop by attaching a spacer to the top of it. It prevents the throttle from closing completely, the car idles much better, allowing it to be driven. I guess I'll have to take it in to see what they think. I'll get the codes read too, but I have no CEL on, so I assume there would be none?

    Thanks for the help again, Izzy.



    Your rough idle problem may have been caused by the low voltage to the DME as the alternator was dying. I assume you disconnected the battery when you replaced the alternator and now the DME has to "relearn" your driving habots as well as compensate for the "new alternator" putting 14+ volts into the battery for charging. As I recall, it takes approximately 5-6 starts for the DME to get itself back into "normal" ( I have read this in several posts in this forum). I would adjust the throttle linkage back to original position and let the DME do its thing in relearn for a few days and your rough idle should be eliminated. If not, then you go to codes for possible MAF issues.

    Good Luck!! :cheers: demosan

  24. I accidently filled up with regular unleaded (87 octane) rather than the recommeded super unleaded (91 octane). I know the computer will adjust the timing so that the engine will run on lower octane (albeit with less HP), but will the prolonged period of running a full tank of 87 hurt the engine in any way?

    The 996 owner's manual says that the car will operate normally on at least 95 RON (I think 87 octane is about 91 RON?), so that doesn't sound good. Should I siphon out the gas?


    I would not siphon the gas, but would put some octane booster you can purchase from an auto supply to get the octane closer to normal dependent on how much your tank was filled with the 87 octane fuel. I would try and "take it easy" in driving for a 1/4 of a tank or so until you can get some 91 ( or higher if available in your area).


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