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Everything posted by demosan

  1. First one at 27, second one at 42, third one at 61..................
  2. My recollection is tha tcode is for lean fuel/air mixture. Therefore, see if you have any obvious air leaks in air intake. Check to see if gas cap sea lis damaged/leaking as well. Lastly, if you "google" the P1124 code you will probably find some more ideas as well. Good luck with it!! Demosan :cheers:
  3. As the previous poster states, there is more to a turbo than just the motor differences. If you ever have any tendencies to track the car ( even auto-X's) the turbo has wider wheels and the beffier brakes and wider rear axle that would put you at a disadvantage when competing with other factory turbo's. Most important to me would be the factory turbo has a better engineered oil sump and is also less prone to IMS problems. If you wetre here in the states it would be a "no-brainer" to wait for a factory turbo to come up on the sales block. In Australia much more difficult........................... Good Luck in whatever you choose to do!! Demosan My $.02 :cheers:
  4. Good luck wqith the trip and will be anxious to hear how it went once you get back to TX. make sure that AC is in working order as you will be in some real HOT territory!! Demosan :cheers:
  5. Jerry, Given your car is a C4, having the right size tires is important than a 2WD Carrera. I'm not a tire expert, but if you were to use the 30 profile vs the 35 the difference in revolutions per mile is 836 vs 805 or 3.5%. In order NOT to stress the viscous coupling in your 4WD Carrera, it is advisable to have the MAX difference to be 2%. Therefore, you could be asking for trouble. You mention the front being 50% worn so you might "sneak by the 2% guideline", but if you drive the car in the winter in snow and need the 4WD system to be in good working order I would not take the chance. Demosan
  6. I believe you need to adjust the microswitch in the door that controls the amount ofglass travel for opening before the door is actually opened. In your car it appears the microswitch has moved on the drivers door causing your problem with incorrect travel. Good Luck!! Demosan
  7. jpowers, as a contributing member of this forum ( which you apprently are) you can access the manual in the "Documents Menu" portion of this site provided by Loren. Good Luck!! Demosan
  8. clboo99, I'm not sure about the heat shield issue, but in order to the rear bumper t ofit from the turbo/C4S, it needs to be narrowed to fit the C2 narrow body configuration. Do a searchand you'll see others have done this retrofit with lots of effort and $$'s involved. It is not simple "bolt-in" replacement for sure. I have a C4S and I believe my rear bumper faciais about 2.5 inches wider than the C2 facia. Good Luck!! Demosan :cheers:
  9. judgejon, I think you mean the serpentine belt, not timing belt in your note?? There is no timing belt but as you know, rather a timing chain ( with tensioners internal).. demosan
  10. TCS85, Not sure if you have replaced the headunit with any non-OEM replacement , however I would suggest you remove headunit and get to ATC connectors and see if any of them are loose. I have never experienced the problem as you describe it, but when I installed a Nav System to replace my stock head-unit I remmber having some problems with getting the connectors to seat and lock in the new headunit. The ATC connectors are of the same design and again possibly could have worked loose. Good Luck!! :cheers: Demosan
  11. I have taken my front bumper off several times to clean radiators of debris and there is no need to pry the bumper with any tool in that area if the bumper is removed with all the screws removed appropriately. The service tech may have missed the hoardware near the side marker lights and then tried to "pry" the bumper off?? Was this a Porsche dealer or independent repair shop that did the work for you?? You mentioned talking to a VW service advisor so I am curious as to who did the work?? Good Luck with your second round with the service folks!! That clearly is no rock chip!! Demosan :cheers:
  12. It is the outside air temp sensor. Enjoy your new car and drive it like you stole it!! Demosan :cheers:
  13. tanny02996, Thanks for the response on your milage re: your coupling replacement. I just turned 40K so I'll definitely check it out at next oil change. Demosan
  14. I have a 02 C4S as well and was wondering how many miles on your car ?? I will have to check the shaft on my car once I am under it again for an oil change. Were there any symptoms of the shaft being bad in your case before you visually saw the deteriration of the coupling?? TIA demosan
  15. To me the service history looks OK as most of the service events were scheduled maint. and done at a Porsche dealer. On the other hand, the car to me looks its age and then some.... Front seat appears to have a tear/ wear thru the leather. Wheels have wheel rash ( which can be repaired). No sign of a cluth replacement, so that could be necessary on the near term?? I must say I don't know the Northern Ca Porsche market, but I think you can do better in both condition and price for a 2002 Cab with a bit less miles as well. My advice to you is the same others gave me when I was looking for my Pcar, be patient and diligent as there are lots out there and your planful search will lead to a favorable end. You are in the drivers seat ( no pun intended!! ). My $.02 and again good luck with the search. demosan
  16. You don't mention any options in either the '02 or '04 cars you have test driven. Unless the '04 has the X51 option ( 355HP vs the 320) their isn't really any difference in the power trains. WIth the 04 being a C4S, it has the turbo suspension and brakes which is a nice upgrade ( I have a 02 C4S coupe myself). Good luck with the search!! Demosan :cheers:
  17. MkII refers to the '02 and newer versions of the 996 platform that had the 3.6L displacement motor vs the MkI referencing the 99-01 models that were built with the 3.4L motors. The MKII was also referred to as the "facelift" version of the 996 platform that also included some changes to bumpers and interior features, like audio and OBC features. Good luck with your search. There are lots of deals out there right now for sure!! Demosan :cheers:
  18. CHeck the brake light switch as that is definitely a part of the CC circuitry. Good Luck!! Demosan :cheers:
  19. My recollection is the belt is a 60K mile replacement item. If the tensioner pulley has never been replaced,I would guess the wear you are experiencing is probably due to wear of the tensioner and perhaps idler pulley as well. Demosan
  20. Not sure hoe often you use the car, but is sounds like a weak battery ( or bad connections as Maurice suggested). I would get the battery load tested at auto service center to determine it's cranking capacity. Pick one that yoiu would buy the battery from and I'm sure there would be no charge for test. Good Luck!! Demosan :cheers:
  21. Ken, these symptoms ca npoint to a faulty ignition switch. has it ever been replaced?? Do you get any codes when the engines "stops" unexplicably?? CEL flashing or whatever?? One thing you can do is "wiggle" the ignition key when you are idling and see if you replacate the stall condition. If so you'll know it is the electrical portion of the switch. DO a search for ignition switch here on the site and you'll see lots of dialogue and DYI instructions. Good Luck!! Demosan :cheers:
  22. It's hard for me to distinguish where the noise is coming from. I would guess it is from the rear. the sound is not so much a whine as it is a hum and it is not like it gets louder the faster I go. It is more or an occurring not occurring sort of thing. When I am in fourth gear or above at or above 3000 rpms, the hum occurs. so it starts at around 55 to 60 mph and is audible only when i am pressing the gas. Could be a belt tensioner beginning to go bad. Have you ever replaced either the idler pulley or belt tensioner?? If it were either pulley, you should be able to create the noise by reving engine with engine latch open and listening for the nosise with someone reving motor to 3000RPM as you state that is when you hear the noise. Good Luck!! :cheers: My $.02 Demosan
  23. wwest, Sounds like there may be some air-bubbles in the radiators in the front of your car?? Have you recently changed your coolant?? You might want to run for a day with the coolant bleeder valve open to help "burp" any air pockets in the cooling lines/radiators. Do a search in this forum for lots of info relative to purging air from cooling circuit. Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:
  24. bvs, Given you have had some interaction from the current owner, ask for a service history of the car from the service location/dealer where the work was performed. That should give you an idea as to what preventative service/repairs have been performed and when on the car. That should give you a good idea as to how diligent the owner has been in PM. WIth a bad synchro, that should have been uncovered in the last service?? Does the current owner currently track the car at all?? Good Luck!! If the owner has no real reacord of service events performed on the car I would walk away. There are lots of good P-cars out there with decent pricing. Demosan :cheers:
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