Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Palting 996 C4S

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Palting 996 C4S

  1. My 0.2c's. Go with Jeff's way. A lot easier to bleed the brakes than it is to dismantle or poke the reservoir.
  2. I have a BK on the power seat of my C4S. Fits just fine, goes right in, made to order. Here is the correct part: BK mount for 996 power seat Here's a pic with it installed: It attaches to the bottom of the seat frame, and moves with the seat. So, there is no restriction to the travel of the seat.
  3. You did lose some fluid through the vent. The "boiled" theory is nonsense. You would have noted a definite fade in the brakes, and there would be a spongy feel now. By the third run during autocross, when I'm really cooking, my brake level light does go on pretty regularly. The G's probably do make the fluid climb up the sides of the reservoir, enough to make the sensor think it's running low. I've not seen any fluid outside the reservoir. I've only had it go on once during DE, though. Boy, you must really be cooking those corners!!! I posted a simillar thread in the past, and had some r
  4. I noticed a progressive improvement up to about 5k miles, both in ride quality and reponsiveness. Dunno if my getting used to the car had anything to do with it as well. Seems to have plateaued or very minimal after that. Then, wear items will let their presence known. I am now up to 17k miles. My pads are quite a ways down, with noticeable degradation in braking ability. I expect it to be back up to par after pad and rotor change.
  5. You could probably weld the arm that's attached to the valve to permanently keep it in the open position. However, even without welding, that arm stays in the open position. Without attaching any of the electronics, I don't see how the valve could inadvertently close. OTOH, I don't see a downside to welding that arm in place, other than labor cost and the inability to revert to quiet should you want to do so at some future date. That's a good price you got installed, BTW.
  6. Autocross is about $20.00 for a day, less than what a full tank of gas would cost. DE about $150.00/day, about the price of a good dinner for two. Aside from a ton of fun, you can get a good sense of what the car and you are capable of. You can't harm your baby if you are sensible. Go for it :).
  7. When you're right, you're right. The best and safest short of a lift is a jack stand, and chocks on the wheels that are on the ground.
  8. When you say you are at 6300 rpm majority of the time, do you mean you don't reach redline or run out of RPM at any section? If so, stay on second. If you do get close to redline, I would shift, just for the hell of it. It's all about fun, right? Ok, now that I have said that, STOP what you are doing and GO TO DE!!!!! It may be lightly travelled, but everything is uncontrolled on the road. All you need is one car or truck that's disabled and blocking, an inattentive teenager who crossed the median, or a dog, or heaven forbid a child who ran out of a parked car after an errant balloon or so
  9. Just got this done last week. My technique was pretty low tech. Just a jack and chocks on the opposite front wheel, and one side at a time. Not much force necessary, everything comes off and goes back on fairly easy. While working on one side, I used the other side as a template to put everythig back exactly as they were. Total work time of two hours, taking my sweet time and checking everything.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.