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vijen6

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Everything posted by vijen6

  1. Thanks ahead of time for this. CR220 Model # / Type 4362 Serial: 15031022
  2. I reconnected the shift cables today with the alignment tool on. The black cable dropped straight in, and tried to stretched the cable a little as little as possible to drop it in. I ended up having to pull it the 1/4" ( about 3 grooves ). Took it for a short test drive, and still noticed the position change issue a little bit though definitely not as bad as last time when I stretched to cable to where the original mark is. All gears engage without issues, even reverse. Though I'm still missing the 2nd to 3rd shift sometimes, I think its more 'driver error' until I get used to the new position. Overall, I still LOVE LOVE the much shorter throw and the 'gated' feel. Porsche really should have added the extra $100 or $200 ( difference in cost for this shifter vs the OEM 986 shifter ) and sold this as a stock 986 part. I have to take the car in for service soon ( need new starter, old one is making noise on cold starts ) so I'll have the mechanic take a look at the connection on the tranny side too. Thanks for all your advice Loren. I +1'ed on your rep though that might not mean much given that you're admin. LOL.
  3. Thanks Loren. Let me pick your brain a bit more. 1. If the problem is indeed the underside connection at the transmission, would this mean that my previous shifter was also experiencing issues but I just didn't notice. I got the car used, but got a new transmission from the dealership ( under CPO ) about 7k miles ago, wouldn't this bent shifter arm be some thing that they would have caught ? 2. If its possible to catch and bend the shifter arm by backing up, I'm assuming that its in a pretty expose position. Could I simply jack up the car myself and do a visual check ( if someone could point out where to check of course ) ? 3. What ill effect would there be if I simply 'pulled' the cable up 3 notches to fit in. Would the main problem be that I have to deal with the shifter not being perfectly neutral ? Or does that cause other more major issues down the line such as premature wear of the transmission? If its just a case of adjusting my shift to the slightly different shift position, I might be able to deal with that until the next time I need some other major work done. However, I wouldn't want to risk it if it can cause other damage. Thanks so much for all your help.
  4. The problem is it wont simply 'drop in'. Hope I'm describing it clearly here, but at the very back of the grooved connector ( the side that's part of the console ), there is a little outdent that smaller than the threaded cable end. Its the size of the cable shaft, so I'm guessing to help top the cable from sliding around, but it also prevents the threaded cable end to sit all the way down on the groove. If I want to put it in with the tool in place, I have to 'pull' the cable end a bit. At the very least 1/4" or about 3 groves for it to just fit in. If I want it to come back to where the mark was, I have to 'pull' it up about 7 or 8 grooves. From what I've read, you're not supposed to pull the cable at all. This is why I'm confused. Thanks for any help.
  5. This first picture is the cable with the alignment tool off, and the shifter slightly tilted toward the driver side, the threaded cable end falls pretty easily into the threaded groove. This second picture is with the alignment tool on, so the shifter should be perfectly neutral. The cable is not long enough and the threaded cable end does not fit completely into the groves. Most of it would fit, but the will be about two threads sitting on top of the non grooved parts.
  6. Hey all, I finished a DIY install yesterday and took the car for a test drive. It drove fine but there's a few things I wasn't sure about, hopefully someone who's more experienced will be able to enlighten. The instruction here ( http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7371 ) which indicated that I should have followed the B&M instruction to step 16, then swap the cables over with the ends attached. To do this, I had to actually follow to step 20 which covers removing the cable tabs from the console and removing the actual console to switch the new console over. Then, since my new console came with the green alignment tool, I left it on while I connected the cables ends back in. To do so, I had to "pull" on the cable a bit to "stretch" it to fit in at the mark. On my test drive, I noticed that the shifting is tougher to get into gear, as well as sometimes the gear feel that its not completely in although I pushed the shifter as far as it will go. Also position of 3rd is slightly changed. Previously, shifting from 2nd, it felt like it was at 12:05 ( directly above and very slightly to the right of 4th ), now it feels like its at 11:55 ( directly above and very slightly to the left of 4th ). Someone at 986forum suggested that I should not have stretch my cable to get it to the markings, but instead the cable ends should just drop in with the alignment tool on the shifter. I tried this approach too, but its not so simple for me. With the alignment tool on, the black cable ( which I think controls the forward backward motion) can slide right in, but the blue cable ( which I think controls the side to side motion ) is about 1/4" too short to drop in directly. Taking the alignment tool off and pushing the shifter slightly to the left ( toward driver ) pushes the cable end attachment back enough so that blue cable can just drop in. Doing this though leaves the shifter slanted to the left instead of aligned in neutral. Does anyone know whats going on ? Am I dealing with a huge issue here ? PS, I also have a similar topic posted at 986forums but just posting here in hope of getting as much advice as possible.
  7. Thanks DC, I appreciate the time you took to post that up for me. The dealership took the car back and fixed it within the same day without any hassles. It drives beautifully now, both backward and forward ( bravo to Mark Williams in the service dept for taking care of it promptly ). On a side note, probably unrelated, but the alternator died basically the day after I got the car back, so its back there again for the 3rd time in a week. That saying "A porsche spends 90% of its time in the shop, and the other 10% driving to the shop" has been true for me for basically the last month! LOL.
  8. My first Boxster was bought on Ebay and came with easyCare extended warranty. The website itself makes it look like a fly by night service and had me worried when I needed to make a claim, however, I had no problems with them. Got all the oil leaks and such fixed at the dealers free of charge ( $3500 + ). I MIGH have had to pay a $100 'co-pay'. I dont remember exactly, but I do remember being impressed with their professionality and promptness at the time. With my current car, bought with 2 year CPO warranty from dealer ( after negotiation, paid a premium of $1500 for it compared to another similar car I was looking at ), and I just had to claim a new transmission a month ago ( 5 days before warranty expired ). I drive about 5k miles a year and I dont abuse the car, so maybe its my luck. It might not be mathematically sound but I would definitely recommend getting a warranty if you can afford it. I dont want to worry about every little 'weird' noise the car is making and I just sleep better at night knowing that an unexpected $10,000 bill isnt around the corner. My 2c.
  9. Quick update: DC, you were correct I think. The dealership took the car back for inspection. The service rep also thinks that the linkage is the issue, but he's confuse because the 'new' linkage style doesnt have alot of adjustments. Small change of it actually being the tranny itself, in which case I'll need another one shipped in. I'll find out more later.
  10. The car drives beautifully .. going forward .. and only fowrard. Could it still be linkage if the car drives forward or does that make it more probably that the reverse gear itself is messed up inside the tranny? At this point I've tried everything I could including trying to find reverse left of 2nd and right of 5th and 6th. Just incase it was 'moved' and they forgot to tell me about it. LOL. I'll drop the car off tomorrow and hopefuly find out for sure. *crossing finger that it is linkage* Thanks guys
  11. Hi guys, I just picked up my car about 2 hours ago from the dealership. It had a bad transmission ( 6 speed ) but luckily was still on warranty so dealership ( stevens creek porsche ) replaced it. Transmission was shipped in from Porsche germany, so it might be brand new, but could also be a rebuild. No warranty on the new part. I picked up the car and drove it straight out of the parking lot with no problems, and stopped at a coffee shop 4 miles away to get some work done. When I was leaving, I COULD NOT get the car into reverse at all. I tried to be gentle with it. I tried to be a bit forceful with it. I tried to shift it in from other gears. I tried it with the car on and with the car off. No way that tranny was going to get into reverse. Had to ask for some help pushing the car back out of the parking spot before I could drive off. Drove it another 20 miles home and tried to reverse again. No luck. Does anyone know what could be happening? Was it installed incorrectly? Was it a defective transmission? I'm calling the dealership first thing tomorrow morning, but hopefully one of you can shine some light before that. Thanks.
  12. Good news guys. Problem is gone. Car is running strong and idling smooth. It relearned the map within 20 miles. LOL though because it remembered my seat settings, but forgot the engine settings. Weird though because when the old battery died, I was still able to have stereo and lights and gadgets, so it wasn't completely dead, just not able to crank over. It didn't give any warning though. I started it and drove it just fine 30 minutes before and when I got there, it just wont start again and just died. Oh wells. Thanks guys.
  13. I just took it for a 5 mile drive, and it got a bit better. Not much, its fluctuating still but less. Maybe +- 150rpm instead of +-200 from 800. Hopefully it will be better within a day or two of driving. Thanks.
  14. Hey guys, My battery died yesterday and left me stranded. I paid for a jump ($55 from AAA) and got the car back home (45 minute drive). This morning it didn't start again, so I walked to Kragen and got a new battery. Its an Autolite 48-84. I thought 48 was our battery size, but this one was physically a bit smaller than the OEM battery. They didn't have one exactly the same sized as ours, but the guy looked it up though, and said this should work for the car. Now its installed and cranks, but at idle, the car is not staying at the same RPM. Before, it usually stays at 800rpm flat, with no movement on the needle, but now its fluctuating down to about 600 and then revs back up to about 900 automatically and then drop back down to 600. This would happen constantly. Car ran strong yesterday after I got the jump start, but haven't been driven since I installed the new battery. The fluctuation rpm worried me and I turned it off after the car idled for about 3 minutes and didn't get better. Did I buy a bad battery or the wrong battery size ? Or could it be something else ? Should I take it to a shop ? Thanks.
  15. I really like the subtle look of the JNH sideskirt on this GT3. Ithink it would really make a Boxster stand out. What do you guys think ? http://supercars-wallpaper.blogspot.com/20...es-gallery.html
  16. Thats precisely why I wanted a boxster instead of the WRS Sti, or even the Lan Evo, both of which is cheaper than the box s and offer loads more hp. That said, its pretty sad when at a stop light, you have a hard time overtaking a Nissan Maxima (255hp), or a base ML350 (270+hp) with your Porsche, all the DE training in the world wont help you there.
  17. The only supercharger kit I know of for the Box, is the Imagine Auto kit. http://www.imagineauto.com/boxster%20sc.htm It uses an 'all-in-one' supercharger, instead of an intercooled setup. I think with an intercooled setup, there' definately alot more power to be gained for less money. Imagine a reliable 450rwhp Boxster for 10k worth of mods? Thats better value than any 911 i think. Compression is not the be all and end all factor to power gain. I would love to have a big boost boxster, as I know a few good shops in my area that have built many big hp cars, but the fact that Boxster engine 'cant' be rebuilt is a big deterring factor. Most warrantees will not honor a 10k engine replacement claim when there's a supercharger bolted to it.
  18. Its simple enough .. pic is below, vote on poll above. Pics are of a Cayman, but what do you think it would look like on a Boxster? :renntech: http://216.224.119.50/misc/Untitled-1.jpg
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