Glyn

Do you any of you know what kind of fasteners are holding this rack in place? I looked in with amirror and there is no tool that can be used. How is it removed?

Thanks, Bob

Bob, is this the plastic thingy that sits just above your knees under the dash - if so there are 4 screws that attach it to the dash, they are located into plastic push in type pieces, the screws go through the middle of the plastic push ins and expand the plastic like a wall plug.

Hope that all made sense - **** this Jack Daniels (the **** part only said d.a.m.n why blank this out?)

CONGRATS! that is awesome!

i'm curious to know how they got that rod into the car. ?

the lock cylinder is mechanical, but i'm sure it connects in some way to electrical components. i was quoted around $250 for a new lock cylinder from Sunset Imports. if you want a cylinder that is ready-to-go (will fit your key) you need to give them your VIN and then they 'key' the lock to your key. this is what i was told by Sunset, anyway.

Inside the door from the key lock is a flat piece of metal, about 3 inches long, it connects to the door lock in the same fashon a screwdriver goes into a slotted screw-its not fixed just pushes in there, therefore by simply removing the door lock- connect the wires back op (with the lock in your hand) you can use a flat blade screwdriver to lock and unlock the car - this should wake your system up.

Next remove the door lock and either get a new one or take it to a locksmith to get it to work with the key you have

hahaha... Im rarely there when they diagnose!

But could it be airbubbles perhaps, would that make a noticeable sound ?

Not a chance.

This is not major and in reality any half competant mechanic could locate the problem and replace the offending part, perhaps a few comments will now come from others who will shudder that non Porsche people should touch it.

Its just a car

Go to an independant, listen to what they say, buy the part via interwebby and let them fit.

Oh yes, there is no great shakes to filling with water, you do not have to vaccum etc, its mysterys like this that make everybody afraid to do anything on them, to top up / fill with water, open the bleed valve - which is under the oil and water cap in the boot - take caps off and lift the plastic false floor- under this is the vent- simply pull back the pin to open the valve - put the cap back on the oil but leave the water off, start the engine and let it warm up, as the thermostat opens trapped air will be forced up the vent, the water level will fall and you simply top it up.

Keep it running for about 10 minutes like this, then shut the vent, top the water to its proper level and fit the cap, then go enjoy

I just had a thought! :huh:

The sound came allmost at the same time as my coolant tank was replaced.

I am thinking maybe the mechanic did not vacume the coolant and therefor the water pump has a lot of air bubbles in it !

Could that be the issue perhaps ??

I tried to take the engine cover from inside the car out but I could not tell where the sound came from - I think it came from a lower area so I am thinking it might be the water pump, maybe it ran dry for a while with the coolant breakdown and got damaged ?

From all that you have said it doesnt sound like this is going to cost you mega bucks, the most likely is either the idler adjuster or the water pump, any decent mechanic will be able to pinpoint the problem within minutes of taking the engine front cover off, of course get ready for the sharp intake of breath, the nodding head and the false screwed up face - its part of the motor vehicles mechanic training- they have a whole week practicing this before they move on to how to fix the things :lol:

98' Boxster, Tiptronic.

It's not very loud but I can hear it from inside in idle and when driving. It IS annoying... it's there all the time, fast or slow, but when driving 'fast' its hard to hear because the regular engine sound is much louder - hot or cold and it's pretty much the same noise, just a rattling sound... at first i though it was like a rotating sound but when I listen under the car I think it sounds more like a vibrating metal sound - I looked under the car tried to push some of the parts but I could not stop the rattle (I do not know what is what anyways)

At one point my mechanic said he welded the the one part of the heat shield because it was a bit loose in one corner...

I have made a recording where the sound is pretty obvious:

http://www.shooter.dk/rattle/rattle.wav

What do you think this sound is and can anyone recognize it from their car ?

Is this serious (engine), muffler or heatshield (I read about this a few times here) ?

Should I take this to the mechanic before I leave on a 2000km road-trip ? I just returned from him 2 days ago, but I did not mention this to him and he didn't say anything about it either...

How many of you live with a rattle

Kind regards

Morten

It certainly sounds rotational as viscarra44 stated, there is also an idler on the polyrib belt, pity you didnt rev the engine, that way we could have heard the effect and been a little more analytical, if you are handy with a spanner loosen the idler on the polyrib belt and remove the belt, then start her up, if the sound has dissapeared you will know it is one of the pully wheels which means idler, alternator, power steering pump, air-con compressor etc.

Dont drive the car far as you will have no water pump or power steering but you can rev her up - with the noise i hear it will be obvious if one of the pullys are responsible - then spin them all one by one by hand to see if you can detect a roughness or noise, then grasp and try to twist them - this checks for excessive bearing wear

Good luck

Hi,

I did a search onto forums without luck.

My car tend to be not in carburation at low revs.

It happens like that: when I'm down on revs or I'm simply moving the car from rest (example when going from a traffic light) it start to cough, bounching for some seconds. When , finally, staying on trottle, it stat to run smooth I feel no more the problem.

Indeed the car at high speed, and generally at high revs, run perfect and fast.

Mecs checked electronics, sensors and things like that, but without any important result. I have another check appointment next week and maybe it's better if I'll go there with some kind of suggestions....

cya from Italy :-)

ps: for the second consecutive year I'll have holiday in Calif!!!

This is either an oxygen sensor or the maf.

disconnect the maf then run the car, this will not harm anything as the engine management system goes into its fallback strategy protocol, it approximates the fuel/air ratio and whilst its not perfect it is better than a duff maf, try it, if it corrects your problem then replace the maf.

most testers will not display the maf out of range unless it is totally fried.

The other possibility is a slight air leak in the induction tubes, undo then reposition and tighten up, this problem will be more noticable when starting from very cold, the revs will rise and fall at tickover

RMS is just a little poxy oil leak, dont worry unless you have masses of oil loss.

The end of the crankshaft has the flywheel bolted to it- then its the clutch and finaly the gearbox,

Where the crank joins the flywheel there is an oil seal with a cost of only a couple of dollars (in your money - but about £5 in brit stuff) so i guess about 8 to 10 dollars, oil seeps past the seal and drains down the bellhousing of the gearbox and drips out from underneath the middle of the car engine - all manufactures place a drain hole in this area to ensure the oil leaks away and does not build up to contaminate the clutch.

Contamination will happen when the leak becomes very bad- most Porsches start to leak but seldom develop.

Some manufactures put a split pin through the drail hole to encorage the oil to drain away easier - though i haven't seen that on a Boxster.

Dont worry abot it, if you want it doing because you want to be on the safe side your garage will always reccomment a new clutch at the same time, so either way you incur the cost of changing the lot, drive the car and wait for the leak to get worse (which it wont) or until other signs that the clutch needs changing - then have the seal changed at the same time.

Relax -

When I let out the clutch in first gear, if I am not super careful the engine will shudder. Unless I give it a lot of throttle, I actually have to modulate the clutch pedal at different speeds throughout the clutch travel to keep the engine from shaking.

I have driven manual transmissions for over 20 years and have never had this problem. Hot/cold/incline/flat, nothing makes a difference.

Also I am starting to get wheel hop on right hand turns from a stop.

Any idea of what's going on? Could these be related?

MY02, 5 spd, 65K, stock.

Thanks.

This is clutch judder, likely either due to excessive wear of the clutch or oil contamination on the clutch plate, do you have an RMS leak?

there are other things that could cause it like engine mounting broken/weak or spongy and there is a possibility that the dual mass flywheel is knackered, however old clutch or contaminated plate is the most likely.

What happens is the clutch starts to bite, oil on one part of the centre plate causes a slip only for a good area of the plate to re-engage properly - to test this use high revs to pull away suggest 2000 ish ans slowly let the clutch out, if it pulls smoothly then you know its the centre plate, howver to be sure the box needs to come out and clutch taken out, if there is wear replace the lot and have the RMS done at the same time for a few pennies more. (cents in your case)

I bought one of the little red clips that fits somwhere in the area of the sun visor when you want to activate the infared part of the alarm system when the top is down, but i don't have a clue as to exactly how it is used. I've done a Forum search without being able to find anything, so any input from the mebership would be appreciated.

Lyn

You dont need the clip, simply reach over and depress the button where the clip fits, press the remote to lock the car then release the button, this activates the interior sensors.

Other than GPS, are there any other methods to determine speedo error? This might explain why I constantly get passed when I feel I'm doing the limit +.

They all have the 5mph error, the speedo always reads faster- part of the package to enhance perceived performance. 10% error is lawfull - which also means the odometer is wrong by the same amount

Success !!!!

I disconnected the alternator terminal exactly where Tool Pants mentioned and the drain dropped from 2.5 Amps to about 20 mA.

So now I'm focused on replacing the alternator. I sized up the job and don't expect it to be a problem for me. From what I've read in this forum, it's very likely that the problem is not the alternator itself, but the voltage regulator. A couple of people mentioned that they replaced just the regulator. I did a check on ebay and couldn't find one. Does anyone know the Bosch P/N for the regulator or where to get one?

My car is a 2000 986, 2.7l, 5 speed manual.

I found this alternator on ebay but not sure if it matches mine.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Porsche-911-Boxster-Bos...1QQcmdZViewItem

From the Porsche parts catalogue I can see that the manual cars had a different alternator then the Tiptronic models. The alternator for manual cars like mine are supposed to have "pulley with free wheel lock" whatever that is ?

The Porsche catalogue shows 2 different part number units for manual cars: 996 603 012 02 and 996 603 012 01

Does anyone know which one would be correct for my car and the equivalent Bosch part number ?

Thanks a lot Tool Pants, Loren, Glyn, and vizcarra44 for all the help.

I think it's about time for another forum contribution.

Steven

In England specialist stopped suplying parts for alternators and starters years ago, I used to be able to get any single part and pay peanuts for it, but now its replace the whole thing - at least you know the cause of the problem and can now rectify

My saga continues.

Yesterday I did some additional checks.

First let me confirm that the current drain I'm reading is 2.5 Amps. I'm measuring it with a multimeter across the negative battery post. I removed each and every fuse (not one at a time but all together just to be sure) from the main fuse block and the reading dropped to about 2.3 Amps.

So what next?

From what I can gather from searching this forum the next logical step would be to try disconnecting the alternator. Does anyone know if the alternator is fused or exactly where the simplest location would be to disconnect it?

The only other idea I had was that it might be a Boomerang alarm system draining the battery. I know that the previous owner of the car originally had a Boomerang installed that he later cancelled. I'm assuming that he probably just cancelled the service with Boomerang but never disconnected or removed the unit from the car. Does anyone know where these alarms are typically installed on the car or where they typically draw power from? Myself I have no idea where to look for it or what it even looks like.

I should also add that I replaced the ignition switch a couple of months ago. I had the typical symptom where the radio would sometimes stay on after the key was removed. All is fine since I replaced the switch, and in either event I don't think it could be my problem because I assume all of the switch connections are fused.

Let me say that this car is my first Porsche and the help that this forum has provided me on several occasions has been invaluable. I love the car and this forum has helped make the whole Porsche experience so far very enjoyable. Without this forum, I would have probably ended up bringing my car to the dealer for every little problem that I've had. I can say with absolute certainty that if that would have been the case this would have been my first and last Porsche.

The alternator needs to be disconnected at the alternator itself, What can happen is the diode pack within the alternator fails (Diodes only allow current in one direction) the alternator in this failed state then draws current like an electric motor.

It is a lot more technical than this explanation but this is the gist as i dont know how familiar you are with auto electrics.

You will also have to trace any additional equipment added to the car

Hi Glyn - well I have my answer - this morning there was a huge clunk. The battery light came on. The power steering stopped and the temperature gauge shot up to 120+! I took it back to the garage and we looked in the engine bay.

The cause of the noise and all the above was that water pump pulley wheel had sheared off! Guess it must have just been a coincidence that this all happened at round about the same time as the clutch. Oh well can't complain as these are really the only two things that have gone wrong in 5 years.

Joesan, at least you have found the fault, i was struggling to think of anything that could have gone wrong with the clutch change that could create the sound you described, the only thing would be a faulty release bearing or a problem with the flywheel (dual mass) but the sound would be completly different between the two.

All in all your sorted - and not a too expensive thing at that

On 2 subsequent occasions now I've gone to start my 2000 Boxster about 24 hours after last driving it, and found the battery to be completely drained. I thought the problem might be the battery itself but after fully charging it and leaving it disconnected for 2 days it held the charge and started the car OK as soon as it was reconnected. The battery is only 2 years old and when I store the car I've always used the Porsche trickle charger.

With the car and all the lights and accessories off, I measured a current drain of about 2.5 Amps at the battery post. Does anyone know if this is normal? It seems high to me but I'm curious to know if it could be just an initial current for some system that remains active for a short period before going to "sleep". I tried pulling fuses one at a time for any and every system with an electronic controller (central alarm etc.), but the reading stays at 2.5 Amps. Funny thing is, absolutely everything on the car works fine (central lock, remote, windows, radio, lights, everything!)

Does anyone know if the 2.5 Amp reading is normal, or experienced a similar problem?

Without some advice my options are now:

1) Replacing the battery (which could be for no reason if it's a problem with the car's electrics), or even worse I could end up damaging the new battery from deep cycling it one two many times!

2) Bring the car to the stealership (please God No).

Anybody have any ideas?

Ohms law is watts equals amps times volts (easy to remember "what are virgins") 2.5 amps is 30 watts so more than one bulb, perhaps a radio amp ?

put a clamp meter on and draw fuses - this will nail the blighter

I took my car to a garage to have the clutch replaced. The guys there are friendly, knowledgable and competent but are not Porsche specialists. Now I can hear some strange noises when the engine is running. Sounds kind of like a squeaking / rattling noise and I get the odd deeper rumble every now and again that I am not sure is related or not.

I am guessing something didn't quite go back in correctly in the engine. Can any of you experienced people out there suggest some likely places to look at?

Car is 2001MY Boxster 2.7.

Can you post a sound file?

If we cant hear it we cant diagnose it

I am not following this.

The area that you labled filter is where the cd changer goes on a RHD. At least that is what I think due to the poor quality of the picture.

The pollen filter is in the area where the battery is. On a RHD the filter is on the passenger/left side. You can see the filter on the right edge of this picture.

Spot on Toolpants, me too (not following this).

I have RHD but i havnt a clue what the item is, its not been on either of mine or any that i looked at, and yes my CD changer is in the area described

yuck

time to go back under the car!

Quite common for the baffle inside the exhaust box to become detached and rattle

Hey All,

I am a newbie Boxster owner. I love the car to bits, 2000 2.7 Boxster, 40k and full Porsche service history. Recently when i change gear it really seems to jerk, almost like i am dumping the clutch. The strange part is it only seems to do it when i short shift, leaving my change a little later the change isn't so noticeable. I am hoping that its just a figment of my imagination or that i am being over critical but any advice or things to check would be most appreciated.

I am not sure if its related but i have also noticed that the car wants to stall when started first thing in the morning. I used to ride bike's so i am retentive and warm the car up before driving but it still does it.

Any ideas guys??

Thanks

Martin

The cold start thing, sounds just like a sticking idle speed control valve or a very slight air leak on the intake pipes. (more critical on cold start though may not be noticable once warm )

The gear change is smoother if you take the revs higher the change sort of blends better, slower speeds just want a slower change.

Enjoy the car

so i recently replaced my spark plugs at 60k ( which fixed the idle problem), i really wanted to go with the NGK laser iridium especially after seeing the OE Beru ultra ( not platinum). it puzzles me why no platinum plugs for the car, however i stayed with the OE just to be safe.

but it still bugs me if that was my only option to go with OE or that the NGK's are actually better, i have asked serveral mechanics and everyone holds differrent opinion, except all porsche dealer guys say to stay OE.......figures~

anyone with experiences using after market plugs?

WTF....Plugs is plugs, they all spark and the internal combustion engine has not changed a great deal from Otto's days, they all go suck, squeeze, bang, puff

Anything within heat range is good :rolleyes:

The car already has one controlled by a thermostatic switch mounted to the intake manifold. Just splice a switch into the circuit if you want to manually run it. You can also run it manually through the PST2.

Todd

Its only the passenger side if your left hand drive.

And why would you want to do this?

anyway a small generator and a leaf blower should do the trick - theres nowt so queer as folk :D

Glyn, I did as you instructed. I filled up the tank to the min mark when it was cold and did all the other stuff. It never needed any other water and the bubbles coming out were for the most small. When I shut of the air conditioner it proceded to fill the opening up to the top. I put the air conditioner on and them water receded to the max line. I never really did see a lot of movement of water in the tank. I am used to old sports cars which send the water moving. Is this normal or is there a possibility of a sticking thermostat? BTW the light went off and the temp never got above the 0 on 180. It idled for at least 1/2 hour. Thanks, Ed

You dont see water moving about anymore as all the user can see is the expansion tank.

The washer fluid will create air as it heats up (the bubbles), you will not see much evidence of a load of air being purged, but it will happen, i dont know how much washer fluid you put in, so you may have to do the purge a few times, but dont worry, all will be well and in a few weeks you will have a good laugh at all of this - it could be worse, you could have put water in the oil filler.

The air con wont have made any difference to the water level - this must have been coincidence.

Bet you wont do the bugger again

:clapping:

Cut it any way you want, but OEM is NOT aftermarket regardless if it is the SAME manufacturer. You have to be careful with your terminology especially if you ever sell anything part-wise and tell somebody it is OEM and then send them an aftermarket part only to have to hear an earful from a pissed off customer.

yes, yes...

but for PRACTICAL purposes, an item made by the same OEM supplier and using the same part number to which Porsche applies their part number *is* OEM. there is no difference except for the Porsche packaging, Porsche price (and maybe warranty).

Chris, Im with you on this one - Its the same part, sod the plastic bag or box the part comes in - you throw those in the bin.

And when you consider the parts are identical and only the part number for Porsche has to be stamped on it or a sticker applied and then the price doubles does this mean the stamper or sticker fixer is earning a shedload?

Ive not seen the job advertised but i think i could do that job for ---ohh 100k a year - Does anyone know who i apply to :jump:

Anyone know what the hardware is for located under the Driver's seat?

are you left or right hand drive, which seat are we looking at :(

LHD, driver's side (US Model)

As per Loren

As I had said before I was a moron and put windshield washer fluid in the coolant system. The last time I drove it it pushed out what looked like a couple of quarts of liquid. I had thought that this was just the excess from the addition. When I started it up today the low coolant level light was blinking, I added about 1 1/2 quarts water as I have an appointment for a flush and fill Tuesday. The final level was on the low side of the lines. This did not stop the light so I took it to a friend of mine who is a mechanic .The car was running a little hot, about 190, and pushed out a lot of the water I put in. When the cap was removed it was full to the top and when we put the cap back on it pushed it out the cap. The light then went out and it seemed to be alright but a little warm. He said to take it for a short easy drive and see if the temp went up. Sure enough it did --past the 200 line and very quickly dropped down to a little past the 0 on the 180 mark, and the light started flashing again. I drove it home, app. 6 miles and the light flashed all the way but the temp didn't go up. Is this related to the original error or is just a per chance happening? And finally--what is happening? Thanks for any help. Ed

Air lock.

Take the oil and water cap off and lift the plastic base, under this is a lever which is a bleed valve, pull the lever up, put the oil cap back on and start the engine with the water cap off, run up to normal running temperature, when the thrermostat opens water will be moved around the system, because the valve is open the air will be moved too and this will purge the system, keep topping up the water level.

A couple of minutes running once at normal temperature will be enough, shut the valve and reassemble - all is now done.

The reason for the "push" of water is that the trapped air expands, gets so hot it turns to steam, the guuge drops when the air lock is around the temperature sensor, as it moves and water makes contact with the sensor you will see the gauge shoot up.

Now you need to find out why you have an air lock, perhaps recently changed a radiator?

If nothing has been done to the car have a system pressure test done, it just may be (and dont panic) a head gasket problem :)

Anyone know what the hardware is for located under the Driver's seat?

are you left or right hand drive, which seat are we looking at :(