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Glyn

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Everything posted by Glyn

  1. The switch isnt in the carpet at all - its fitted above the clutch pedal lever, as you press the pedal it releases the plunger. It is a common fault but has nothing to do with how hard you press the pedal - only possible issue is if you didnt press it enough. Here in the UK the switch is only £13 and such an easy to do DIY, 5 mins tops
  2. Can only suggest door cards off to have a look at whats happening, test for power to the motor when the switch is pressed and identify what is making the noise you hear, this cant be a big deal
  3. If the roof is moving then there is enough power to operate the windows, If the windows are not stuck in the closed position (and windows detached from the carrier) and you can hear motors running when you use the window buttons then its got to be door card off to have a look inside. Unlikely that both cables have broken at the same time. Are there any clues towards the failure on the last window operation you can recall?
  4. This is most likely to be the switch on the clutch pedal, the electrical connection may be loose or dislodged and this will prevent the CC engaging, simple job to have a look. This sounds most likely because of other issues with the creaking clutch pedal - has someone tried to lubricate the assist spring? - the switch is right next to the assist spring and so easy to disconnect
  5. Are the windows frozen shut? Your mail indicates the lights dim when you press the button but windows dont move - and also you hear the motors, could it be that the windows have frozen and the mechanicals are working fine?. The glass is held onto the frame by two bolts that pinch the glass, if the glass is able to move away from the carrier the window stays shut but the carrier continues to move up and down. Not a clue what your weather is but just read another post from someone in NY who said it was bitter cold.
  6. So it looks like either an air bubble or defective seal on the cap, one thing for sure is that you dont have any head issues as it would have boiled up again. Not the easiest of cars to bleed out air but the process i have always found works is:- Jack up the rear of the car - assists air back to the expansion tank as air travels uphill in water. Remove the cap and also open the vent Fill up your coolant and then start the engine with cap off and vent open Allow to tickover to get to normal opperating temperature (thermostat then opens and full flow of water - and any air) Let it tick over for another 5 minutes to purge any trapped air - a few blips of the throttle will increase water flow and push any air towards the vent. Switch off, close vent and replace cap. Chexk water level a couple of times over the next day or so
  7. Your model has a throttle cable and therefore an idle speed control valve, these tend to get blocked up and so the idle gets lower and lower and even stall on occasions. You can remove the Idle control valve without removing the throttle body - just two small bolts, inside the valve is a vane that slides in a concave movement - this gets all gummed up, remove the valve and spray with oven cleaner and leave for a few hours, then carefully with a small screwdriver gently prise the vane open, it should return to the closed position when you remove the screwdriver, keep working it until the movement is free and returns freely, your stall sittuation will then be rectified. Also, whilst you are working on the valve give the throttle body a good clean - this too will be gummed up, you dont need any propriety cleaner to do this - just use brake fluid - a great cleaner, but dont drip any on paintwork as it will crinkle up and remove the paint
  8. From what you say i would suspect an air lock from the water pump change, plus i would change the cap as an introduction of air from a defective seal will cause boiling of the system and of course the rapid expansion of the water resulting in the overflow. Water boils at 100c but for every pound of pressure the boiling point is raised by 2 degrees, therefore, in a sealed system - with no air pockets, all is fine but if the cap seal fails the introduction of air will allow the water to instantly boil, an air pocket not bled out when you did the water pump does circulate, if the pocket of air reaches the block around the head or cylinders the lack of coolant will allow more heat to generate in a localised area - when water then fills the gap the heat instantly boils the water, creates steam and overpressurises the system - hence the boil over. Never heard of a head gasket fail on a Boxster so that unlikely If a head gasket has gone then combustion gasses will pass into the water jackets and pressure/boil the system almost immediately after starting, If you remove the cap when the engine is cold, get someone to start the car whilst you watch the water in the expansion tank, get them to rev up and down the engine - If the gasket has failed then within 30 to 40 seconds water will push up like a volcanic eruption and it will overflow.
  9. If the noise went away when you pressed the clutch then the only thing that happens is the input shaft to the gearbox stops spinning, possible the spigot shaft bearing collapsed and the oil is gearbox oil
  10. The sunroof would be my favourite to nail the problem, sunroof rattle is very common, though the fix is not so easy, so many parts that could cause it. Try opening and lubricating everything you can see, lubricate the rubber seal and close the roof, Try with sunroof open and sunroof closed to see if this makes a difference. Rattles and squeeks are so hard to find and fix, even harder to describe and others to read a post and offer advice
  11. And this is the issue i have with PDK, indeed any auto box with or without manual option. In a large luxury family saloon auto simply adds to the sublime progress and compliments the luxury feeling, In a sports car auto is great if you drive in a lot of trafic but all auto boxes are a compromise and therefore manual is the only option to give the driver full control over the car. Sometimes i drive spirited and i think just how much better it would be simply pulling a lever to change gear, likewise impressive acceleration from rest by simply flooring the pedal, never a chance of stalling or excessive wheel spin, but on those times when im just poodling about i will be in top gear at very low revs, indeed at a junction if i dont have to stop and im in third gear i can simply light throttle and continue but in an auto it will change down and that removes my choice of what gear i want to be in. We all make choices and with every choice there is a compromise, i do like both systems but overall i preffer manual in a sports car and auto in a luxury motor.
  12. unplug your MAF then run the engine - This could be the issue, if works OK unplugged get a new Maf, whilst unplugged the engine will run on its limited operational strategy
  13. Is this a cable version or Egas, 2.5, 2,7 or 3.2. If the cable version then remove the throttle body, clean all the gunk out of the body as this causes the butterfly to stick. You will also have an idle speed control valve that gets blocked up, two bolts hold it to the body of the throttle and you can remove this part without taking off the throttle body. Inside this is a valve that rotoates open and shut - very commom for these to clog up, you can either replace quite cheaply or clean it out, takes a bit of work to clean out but i found oven cleaner very good for this . Takes me back a few years now when i had my 2.5. Not been on this forum for quite some time and still see the white /blue smoke rubbish being spoken about. Smoke is oil buring and a tinge of blue is apparent, white is not smoke its steam from evaporation of the water in the ehaust system from condensation
  14. Put an HID kit in it, much better and cheap to do. All high output normal bulbs produce more heat, heat will soften the plastic outer of the headlight unless you remember to switch headlights off when stationary in traffic, side lights are fine in this sittuation - You need the cooling air that occurs when driving to dissipate the heat build up - but if you sit in stationary or very slow traffic heat will build up
  15. Certainly not. The IMS is very rare though by the posts you would think its very common, of course if it happens its expensive to fix because it shaggs the whole engine but i find too many owners worry themselves far too much about potential faults rather than enjoy the car. Ive had two Boxsters over the last ten years and neither has suffered any serious issues, lots of niggly minor and annoying minor stuff but nothing that would cause a lack of sleep over. Far too many people on these forums that diagnose problems and start from the most serious aspect, and many of them have no knowlege of mechanicals - they just hear a nice phrase and then like to use it themselves - a lot, this in turn raises the fear factor in those that have no mechanical inclination and they drive always in fear of what may happen. Go and enjoy your car, they are pretty much bullet proof and very well put together, the car should be about driving pleasure not worry everytime you turn the ignition on
  16. Have you tried simply disconnecting the battery then reconnecting?
  17. I have heard of this so many times but on neither of my cars have i experienced it. Many replies have indicated the Ackerman effect - and whilst i understand the Ackerman principal i cannot see how that would create the condition that this post and others identify. To clarify - Ackerman is simply a mathematical formula that is used in steering systems to ensure that the steering wheels are at different angles during cornering - to understand this - with the steering wheels on full lock the inner wheel has a smaller circle to travel than the outer wheel - therefore the angle of the wheel has to be slightly different - that calculation differer from car to car dependant on a number of factors including the distance between the steering wheels and the turning circle of the car. Ackerman principal would not cause the condition described - well not in my mind, i think it is more likely to be the camber angle.
  18. You either have an air leak causing a weak mixture or the temperature sensor has failed and therefore the extra fuel needed when cold is not being added, There ought to be a code sprung though as to have such a weak mixture that the car stalls should be detected
  19. I actually cant see their point - If an item is warranted for life why does it matter about the receipt or indeed whether or not the owner was the original purchaser - Surely if they stand by their products for life then they should repair the thing irrespectively - or at the very least send the parts to repair free of charge
  20. Does it not restart immediately? If not the next time it stalls undo the petrol filler cap - then refit immediately - then try to restart - I am thinking along the lines that the fuel tank breather is blocked and it vaccums until the pump cannot overcome the vaccum - then after stalling and waiting an hour the vaccum has dissipated allowing fuel to be pumped again
  21. Wheel bearing file sent to you. Your case doesnt sound like a wheel bearing - what you describe sounds like a gearbox or final drive bearing issue - dont panic - its not that serious, usually the whine you describe is simply a slight misalignment of the differential gears in the final drive - and if this is indeed the problem the car will run quite happily like that for years and years, try changing the gearbox oil first - there are quite a few all synthetic gear oils available which are specifically marketed for wear issues
  22. You want to bet Stefan? Not only do i state it - I took pictures of the whole job doing my own - easy job and safe. If anyone wants the documented and photographed file send me a pm as the file is 1.8meg and too large to put on here. I took pictures of the whole job from removing the wheel to the hub ready to fit with new bearing installed. No specialist kit required to do the job - indeed in my pictures you will see the hub on top of two concrete blocks when i drift the bearing out - and new one in
  23. You know what - the sound is very like a loose spark plug, but that wouldnt explain the oil, no knocking that i can hear so it may not be the IMS - time i think for it to be looked at and get a diagnosis
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