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The switch isnt in the carpet at all - its fitted above the clutch pedal lever, as you press the pedal it releases the plunger. It is a common fault but has nothing to do with how hard you press the pedal - only possible issue is if you didnt press it enough. Here in the UK the switch is only £13 and such an easy to do DIY, 5 mins tops
If the roof is moving then there is enough power to operate the windows, If the windows are not stuck in the closed position (and windows detached from the carrier) and you can hear motors running when you use the window buttons then its got to be door card off to have a look inside. Unlikely that both cables have broken at the same time. Are there any clues towards the failure on the last window operation you can recall?
This is most likely to be the switch on the clutch pedal, the electrical connection may be loose or dislodged and this will prevent the CC engaging, simple job to have a look. This sounds most likely because of other issues with the creaking clutch pedal - has someone tried to lubricate the assist spring? - the switch is right next to the assist spring and so easy to disconnect
Are the windows frozen shut? Your mail indicates the lights dim when you press the button but windows dont move - and also you hear the motors, could it be that the windows have frozen and the mechanicals are working fine?. The glass is held onto the frame by two bolts that pinch the glass, if the glass is able to move away from the carrier the window stays shut but the carrier continues to move up and down. Not a clue what your weather is but just read another post from someone in NY who said it was bitter cold.
So it looks like either an air bubble or defective seal on the cap, one thing for sure is that you dont have any head issues as it would have boiled up again. Not the easiest of cars to bleed out air but the process i have always found works is:- Jack up the rear of the car - assists air back to the expansion tank as air travels uphill in water. Remove the cap and also open the vent Fill up your coolant and then start the engine with cap off and vent open Allow to tickover to get to normal opperating temperature (thermostat then opens and full flow of water - and any air) Let it tick over for another 5 minutes to purge any trapped air - a few blips of the throttle will increase water flow and push any air towards the vent. Switch off, close vent and replace cap. Chexk water level a couple of times over the next day or so
Your model has a throttle cable and therefore an idle speed control valve, these tend to get blocked up and so the idle gets lower and lower and even stall on occasions. You can remove the Idle control valve without removing the throttle body - just two small bolts, inside the valve is a vane that slides in a concave movement - this gets all gummed up, remove the valve and spray with oven cleaner and leave for a few hours, then carefully with a small screwdriver gently prise the vane open, it should return to the closed position when you remove the screwdriver, keep working it until the movement is free and returns freely, your stall sittuation will then be rectified. Also, whilst you are working on the valve give the throttle body a good clean - this too will be gummed up, you dont need any propriety cleaner to do this - just use brake fluid - a great cleaner, but dont drip any on paintwork as it will crinkle up and remove the paint
From what you say i would suspect an air lock from the water pump change, plus i would change the cap as an introduction of air from a defective seal will cause boiling of the system and of course the rapid expansion of the water resulting in the overflow. Water boils at 100c but for every pound of pressure the boiling point is raised by 2 degrees, therefore, in a sealed system - with no air pockets, all is fine but if the cap seal fails the introduction of air will allow the water to instantly boil, an air pocket not bled out when you did the water pump does circulate, if the pocket of air reaches the block around the head or cylinders the lack of coolant will allow more heat to generate in a localised area - when water then fills the gap the heat instantly boils the water, creates steam and overpressurises the system - hence the boil over. Never heard of a head gasket fail on a Boxster so that unlikely If a head gasket has gone then combustion gasses will pass into the water jackets and pressure/boil the system almost immediately after starting, If you remove the cap when the engine is cold, get someone to start the car whilst you watch the water in the expansion tank, get them to rev up and down the engine - If the gasket has failed then within 30 to 40 seconds water will push up like a volcanic eruption and it will overflow.
If the noise went away when you pressed the clutch then the only thing that happens is the input shaft to the gearbox stops spinning, possible the spigot shaft bearing collapsed and the oil is gearbox oil
That sounds like a loose plug to me
The sunroof would be my favourite to nail the problem, sunroof rattle is very common, though the fix is not so easy, so many parts that could cause it. Try opening and lubricating everything you can see, lubricate the rubber seal and close the roof, Try with sunroof open and sunroof closed to see if this makes a difference. Rattles and squeeks are so hard to find and fix, even harder to describe and others to read a post and offer advice
And this is the issue i have with PDK, indeed any auto box with or without manual option. In a large luxury family saloon auto simply adds to the sublime progress and compliments the luxury feeling, In a sports car auto is great if you drive in a lot of trafic but all auto boxes are a compromise and therefore manual is the only option to give the driver full control over the car. Sometimes i drive spirited and i think just how much better it would be simply pulling a lever to change gear, likewise impressive acceleration from rest by simply flooring the pedal, never a chance of stalling or excessive wheel spin, but on those times when im just poodling about i will be in top gear at very low revs, indeed at a junction if i dont have to stop and im in third gear i can simply light throttle and continue but in an auto it will change down and that removes my choice of what gear i want to be in. We all make choices and with every choice there is a compromise, i do like both systems but overall i preffer manual in a sports car and auto in a luxury motor.