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MK19

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About MK19

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    Member

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  • From
    Los Angeles, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '12 997.2 Turbo Cab
  • Former cars
    30 years of 911's, many F'cars, Maseratti - all DYI, self served.

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  1. My PCM just goes mute after a while....I've turned the RBDS feature off already......its pretty erratic, but it happens on any drive over an hour. When it happens, it won't play a CD either. Most often I have to garage it before it will recover. Bad head unit? Looks like these units aren't exactly plug and play......any experience swapping them? It's a 2011 .2 TTS Thanks.
  2. Anyone got one? $$ PM me please.
  3. I'm pretty sure my front springs are the source of suspension noises that I hear at low speeds and that I can cause by bouncing the front of the car at rest. If I spray a bit of lube into the lower spring seats at the coils, it goes away.........but that's temporary. I've cleaned them, greased them, only to have the noise soon return. What's the fix?? Thanks, MK19
  4. I recently replaced the upper front strut mounts and bearings along with all 4 shocks in an attempt to get rid of front suspension noise. It helped a lot, but I still have noticeable noise coming from somewhere up there. It's not continuous as it seems to be related to suspension movement. It is however very consistent Every thing is tight and where it should be. I can't simulate the noise by compressing the suspension when parker either. Any suggestions?? Could it be something else? The front drive shaft for instance? The axels seem fine. And the noise occurs when going straight or turning. I primarily hear it at low speeds when other sounds are low. Could it be the coil springs working in the lower seats? Any help would be appreciated.
  5. After several attempts at bedding, I ended up sanding both the pads and the rotors back to fresh material and starting over. After bedding, the problem was solved. Thanks all, MK
  6. Thanks. Will ck pad contact and then try Bedding the Pads.
  7. Looking for some help please. After new Front pads, rotors and anti-vibration pads (all OE parts) were installed (and calipers bled) about 1500 miles back, I've noticed a slowly increasing shimmy in the steering wheel under light braking........the kind you'd get with warped rotors, where the steering wheel oscillates. But unlike warped rotors, it occurs only under light breaking and when I load the brakes (and suspension) under moderate or greater breaking, the shimmy distinctly goes away. I checked all four rotors......nothing more than about .0015" runout. (The rear bakes have about 50k miles on them, I don't track the car). Everything is tight save for a little looseness between the right steering tie rod and the steering rack on that side. Note also that recently, and after the new front brakes were installed, I replaced all 4 shocks, the front upper shock mounts/bearings, front wheel bearings and the four sway bar drop links, + a full alignment by a competent shop. None of these repairs was related to the shimmy which developed later. Could it need a bleeding..........i.e. unequal break pad pressure due to air on one side? Note also that I've rechecked everything on all four corners looking for anything loose or out of place and that all the rotors look clean and normal. Any suggestions ??? Thanks in advance. MK19
  8. Has anyone had any experience with noise from the upper strut mounts - front, rear or both? I'm thinking this is my problem, but am seeking input before I commit to the parts and effort to replace these mounts. Thanks for the help, MK
  9. BTW, I faked the special tool by making my own from a similar spanner. But you don't want to fight it for fear of scratching the paint or pistons. I'd suggest you buy the tool.
  10. Each spoiler lift actuator has a spring inside to retract the spoiler. You can simply lift it up manually by overcoming the spring force. Two people is probably better. Get it up a few inches and stick a couple of rolled up towels underneath or it will just go back down. The special tool is a pin spanner and it's inserted into each lift actuator just under the wing, and turned about 90 degrees or so to disengage the wing on each side. Thus you do have to get the wing up to get it off, but you only need to raise the wing an inch or two.
  11. THANKS JFP! Such obvious trouble shooting methodology......that I'm embarrassed to have been so lazy. I found that the centermost idler bearing is the culprit........must be replaced. Great result that could have been so much more costly. Thanks again! MK19
  12. Help, I'm noticing a Gear Whine like noise from my engine bay. It does not seem the be the screech that you'd get from the power steering pump/reservoir bypass valve - as per the Service Bulletin, it is no affected by temperature or by engaging the clutch. It sounds like gear whine from the transmission or differential, but it occurs when not moving too, and at about 2000 rpm's. The noise is gone above or below that speed, so I believe it to be one of the accessories but can isolate it. It does not seem to be the A/C compressor, as the noise is there with the A/C on or off. Could it be the Power Steering pump itself? Alternator? Or a drive belt idler bearing? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. MK
  13. Help, I'm noticing a similar but different (I think) noise from my engine bay; It sounds like gear whine.......it's related to engine speed, I thought it might be on the transmission input side. But it occurs whether in gear or not, so I'm certain it's an engine accessory. Can anyone confirm?
  14. This process for bleeding works well. I'll add that its good to flush each side of the pump by submerging the open hose ends in a cup of fluid and then cycling the pump back and forth. When its set up right and synchronized, it won't leak. Tke a cylinder all apart and you'll see there aren't any seal..........its all gravity. Also, I had repeated spoiler warning lights and thought it was bleeding.......but it turned out to be the upper limit switch. Easily replaced, although it was $43 from Sunset.
  15. Can anyone help me out here? Otherwise It'll cost me $50 at least. The cause of the light on has been corrected. Thanks......Mike 310-717-6693 michael.klein19@verizon.net
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