fastboydave

I have a 996TT, bought at 30k mls and now 47k on the clock, so i maybe able to give you some insight. Dont know what your cars are going for over there ($) but i'd expect you can get a mint example as most of these owners (and generally any Porsche owner) takes great pride in their vehicle. The RMS failure i believe is mainly present in the standard boxer engine (2.5, 2.7, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6 & 3.8) NOT the dry sump that is in the Turbo and GT3 amongst others. The Turbos' engine is pretty bomb proof, although they have had some issues with gearboxes in the early days i believe? Some issues that i am aware of and/or have had are: inside face of brake discs corroded, clutch release baring, clutch accumulator leaking, inside edge tyre wear, cracked spark plug coils, centre radiator leaking (fault not damage), air con condenser leaking (fault not damage) , boost pressure low (leaking diverter valve), loss of coolant (leak not resolved), alternator not charging when rear gets wet (fault, not resolved), exhaust heat sheild come loose and maybe one or two other things. Most of the issues were covered on my Porsche warrantee and i would recommend you get one. I have gotten my money back 3 fold with the cost of repairs (mainly labour). Dont get me wrong great car! But dont be under any illusion that you will get a 'Honda'. I have probably been slightly unlucky, but i too have come from a '98 BMW M3 EVO coupe via a Boxster S, and the feeling that you get driving ANY Porsche far surpasses that of a BMW. Sales reps have BMW's, NOT Porsches, if you get me? Its not just the performance, its the whole feeling it gives you. Highly recommended, do it!

Either the warrantee stops when it hits 9 years (even if you havent had your 12 months worth) or you cannot continue it after nine years, which will make maximum age 10 years. Have a chat with you OPC. As i said, i have the OPC warrantee and although expensive for the last 3 years, i have got my money back maybe 3-4 times over with niggling problems (nothing major, but labour intensive as always!) so for me a warrantee was worth while. And as you said in your last post above, if you have a 20k engine bill, it at least covers that. At the end of the day, not many people can afford that and those that can change their P-car every two years (or less) and an 'extended warrantee' doesnt then come into play. Hope this helps you make a decision.

I sort of agree with this to an extent. Although i would add that a good warrantee is piece of mind for anything 'major'. The question about a Porsche warrantee asked in the original post, they only warrantee cars up to 9 years old and 125000mls (in UK anyway). With less than this, you first have to have a Porsche inspection carried out at around £230 for them to see if any work needs doing on the car before they allow you to purchase the warrantee. If you are lucky like i was, nothing was wrong then you part with a further £895 per annum for the warrantee..........

Try this lik: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=windscreen

I have the same with the passenger seat. The rails/levers underneath generally 'rattle'. Try slightly lifting the seat (if electric) at front and back and changing the angle of the backrest. That generally cures it. The noise near the windscreen could be what i have mentioned on here before. It could be the rubber that goes round the screen on the outside rubbing against the body/paintwork. It causes a 'creaking'. You need to clean under the rubber seal and then add silicon grease to stop the noise (if it is that?). Do a search on here reference windscreen noises etc.

Personally i would be a little concerned with mileage that low (as i've said on here before) because it hasnt been driven very much to ascertain if there are any problems with it (plus not good for an engine). That said however, it will, for most part hardly had any wear. Definately get a Porsche check over etc and warrantee if poss and that will be the best piece of mind with most of the majors covered. What i'd check from experience is brakes (corroded discs) especially with low mileage, clutch release baring (can you feel or hear the clutch binding when you operate it?), see if the boost pressure is hitting and maintaining 0.7bar at WOT(standard TT), check coolant level (coolant leak), damage on from radiators/condensors?, is air con cold?, inside edge tyre wear? (although as you know they wear on inside anyway), 'clunks' over speed humps/pot holes (suspension trouble), exhaust heat shield in place and tight?, battery age and condition?, these things you can check yourself, but best to get it professional looked over. Hope some of that helps you?

Guys.... I'm sure one of you experts know......... I've got a cracked right front wheel arch liner (the part that is on backside of bumper with air 'slats' in for brake/rad cooling etc) and damaged front centre air scoop (under the front bumper just behind center rad to direct air out). Basically, there looks a number of screws and want to know is it that straight forward? Just unscrew them and pull both parts off?? Anything special?? Hiden screws?? What about the plastic 'plug' on the wheel arch that is for the side repeater? What other new parts will i need to install correctly?? Car October 2001 996TT. Advice/help?? Cheers, Dave.

Oh, you may want to go for the "Porsche" brand if you have a manufacturers warrantee still on the vehicle, as they will use any excuse not to honour the warrantee if something went wrong with your electrics. Just a thought........

Its obviously up to the individual, but the "Charge-O-Mat" (or something like that) that Porsche 'brand' is exactly the same as the one without the Porsche logo. The company designs and makes them for Porsche and also sells them under their own label. The old type (Charge-O-Mat which i have) has been superceeded now by the Charge-O-Mat II. The newer one charges at a higher rate and has one or two more functions. Ultimately, they both charge and keep your battery topped up which is what you want. Point of information though, make sure your cigar lighter is 'live' without ignition on. Older models arent......... Just a tip.

Unless i'm missing something here, how is an intercooler going to give your more boost or spool up faster?? They are just what it says on the tin.......... a cooler. So an upgrade only will make the oil cooling more efficient etc, not improve your performance? If you run bigger turbo's you need better intercoolers to keep the oil temp around the turbo's within limits so you 'maintain' optimum performance and dont damage anything. But intercoolers alone wont give you more BHP??

'Jump' starting is for emergencies only, a 'smart charger' is the absolute best, but very costly. You don't find these types of chargers in parts stores and Wal-Marts. They operate on the following principle: The first step is bulk charging where up to 80% of the battery energy capacity is replaced by the charger at the maximum voltage and current amp rating of the charger. When the battery voltage reaches 14.4 volts this begins the absorption charge step. This is where the voltage is held at a constant 14.4 volts and the current (amps) declines until the battery is 98% charged. Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries but will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity. It is this "float" charge that your maintainers basically do. To answer your question, there is an exact Porsche equivalent maintainer "Charge-O-Mat" (or something like that) that is the same as they sell, but half the price as they havent put there logo on it. I'm sure its been discussed on here before?? You see them on Ebay all the time, but can get from manufacturers i believe. I'm sure Sunset have them?

Its a good idea to plug in the maintainer any time you arent going to be using the car for a while, whether it be a couple of days or weeks. It is the voltage that is important to a battery and when the voltage is < 12.4V the battery begins to 'sulfate'. Over a period of time this sulfation will eventually lead to your battery not holding charge anymore hence a dead battery. Theres many things that make this 'sulfation' worse, including hot weather and deep discharge (prelonged cranking) but you obviously know that and get the idea.............

Ah, reading it again, your ignition is playing up me thinks. It thinks the key is still in (hence no interior light came on when you removed it and wont therefore lock the car)??

Sounds like ECU for alarm/immoboliser is playing up.........

Nothing new my friend, mine is too! It has been discussed on here a number of times, so maybe do a search?? Incidentally, i mentioned this to my OPC and they say there is no way of 'calibrating' them! They basically said that as it was within 10%, dont worry about it! Cr*p hey???.......

I've heard that pretty much everything is rated to 600hp to give the reliability built in. So up to you? You could air on the side of caution as you need a new clutch anyway, but as i say, i think with only 500hp (more importantly the torque figure) you'd be well inside its capabilities....

Unless they are on the 'bar' you are fine...... Incidentally, the one tyre is more worn than the other, you can tell by the tread pattern being visiable in the centre on the one and not on the other. So keep an eye on the most worn one....... Mines the same as i had a puncture once and had to have the tyre replaced, but the difference was minimal........

Mine makes a banging noise over bumps when closed. When tipped up, it seems fine. I'd have to experiment with it open before I can say. This sounds similar to what i had. Mine turned out to be the 'deflector' that sits on the inside of the roof panel and 'chatters' when you go over bumps with the roof down. I put foam pads on where it runs. You should see a bit of a thin black line where the rubber has marked the inside of your roof. Put them along there and try it.

The clutch gets 'firmer' when the engine isnt running as you have no assist. If you turn off the engine and continually depress the clutch, it gradually gets firmer. Is this what you refer to? Dont think you have an accumulator issue, else it would be soft and pedal to the floor?

Totally agree, you need a warrantee on these cars unless money is no object, but then if that was the case, you'd always have a brand new one on the drive. I have made my mind up to sell when mine is 8.5 years old with 6 month Porsche warrantee left on it to attract a private buyer. If not before ofcourse......... It looks like a lot of research is required here to see if there is a warrantee about for you?? I have a little theory here though with these cars (or any car for that matter). I think you are better off buying a slightly higher mileage car (not high, just respectively high) so that the previous owner has had the teething troubles and has put right alot that will go wrong. If you buy a car with very low miles, it hasnt really loosened up and the troubles havent started yet. A better indication is when your car has been used regulary (daily) cold and hot starts all year round, with 30k plus on the clock, also with a Porsche warrantee continuing. That way things have been tested and problems should have already shown up and been corrected. Its very nice to have a really low mileage car agreed, but..........

My 2000 Cab is coming up on 80,000 miles. Passenger seat has never rattled, though rarely occupied. Seems as though you have the 'good one' :) Mind, if its never occupied, maybe its never 'loosened' up? What about any other rattles, how you doing there??

Yep, my seat rattles too (along with everywhere else!). I located the 'rattle' to the 'arms' underneath that lift the seat up and down. If you put your head underneath, move the back of the seat forwards and backwards while listening and 'feeling' where the noise is coming from you should eventually see it. Mine has 'float' in the bar that runs across the seat underneath and where the lever then lifts the seat. I can reduce mine by slightly lifting the seat front and back so that there is weight on the bar (from motor and seat), reducing the 'rattle'.

Do the 'lugs' on the connector not back out?? Normally there is a 'back plate' which you can remove, then using a needle or paper clip or somthing locate the 'tab' that holds the 'lug' in, lift or press and back it out. When out close up the 'lug'. All Automotive plugs tend to be similar to this?? Maybe a photo on here could help?? Dave.

Standard service intervals (UK) is 12 months or 12000 mls for oil change and 24000 or 2 years for sparks and oil filter/air filter. It appears that you are airing very easily on the side of caution for the oil stuff etc, but the sparks at 30000mls seems against what you are doing, in that the period is much greater than manufacturers spec?? Just a thought...... Belt i think is 48000mls (4 years)?? Brake fluid is what Porsche recommends at 2 years.

You wont here them just stationary reving the engine (neither do i) but i suspect as you have a 'louder' exhaust on your vehicle than standard, that may cloak the noise. I dont hear mine much either when i open the taps, a slight whistle but thats about it. Remember the turbo's cloak the noise of the 'true' flat 6 and your 'loud' exhaust is probably masking the turbo whistle. These cars arent Subaru's or EVO's with loud dump valves etc etc, these are refined cars........ Incidentally, are you hitting your boost pressure???