fastboydave

Hi. I have stock 'Turbo' and those kind of figures seem pretty much like mine. However, you have 'S' so it may well run higher boost (0.9 - 1 bar stock??). In 1st, you wont get as much boost, but the revs increase that fast, the update for the meter wont be as quick as the pressure is rising/changing, so you may just see 0.4. The other gears as i say are similar to mine, 4th incidentally I can regulary see 0.8, but you are doing well over 100mph at that point. The only time i had an issue is when i only saw 0.6 in second and boost slow to come up and that was due to a leaky diverter (stock rubbish). Mine is manual transmission. Still under warrantee????

Hi, think I have the same problem. Has anyone had this replaced under warranty as Porsche UK are saying it's not a warranty part? Its going to be similar to the clutch accumulator that went recently on mine, not a warrantee!! That was 300 quid all in, so god knows what the coolant one will be from a dealer? Interestingly enough, i 'loose' coolant too! They have looked but as yet not found. Just hope its not the same issue as yours? What i would do and i did when i had the sports design wheels on my Boxster corrode on the ally rim, was write a firm technical letter to Porsche GB. Quote a number of articles and the fact they have changed the part number 6 times therefore they are aware of an issue. That said why should you pay for something that is clearly a design flaw or production fault. If its a low milage beast too, you may stand a chance. They replaced my two rear wheels free of charge after one letter only. I talked about casting faults/manufacturing faults etc and as it only had 24000mls....... etc etc. Good luck!

While we're on this subject, anyone know of the same kind of thing in the UK??? Specifically brakes..........

Jeeeezzzzz! Thats low milage for a new clutch, unless its been hammered? I had my clutch changed on my 996 TT at 35000mls purley for the fact that the labour was covered under my warrantee as the clutch release baring had gone and they reckond it was half worn. So i thought what the hell, while its there........ Surely a non turbo 911 should use the clutch less?? The oil does seem a bit high too. The TT's tend to use more oil (or so i'm led to believe) and mine tends to be a 0.25 litres every 1000mls. Hope everything turns out OK.

Surely ALL the above could NOT have gone??? Just replace what has...... Are they sure you havent got a hole in the radiator(s) and you have leaked out the coolant? This is very common.......... but still expensive.......

At some point they changed to the PCM2 and used MOST technology (or something like that). It is around that time and allows you to upgarde the cars 'systems' alot easier. For example, if you have MOST and have no PCM you can buy one and slot it in, or so i'm led to believe (at a price ofcourse!)? See Porsche website and Tequipment for 996. Also, as the cars get more recent, they started putting more 'extras' on them as standard. They certainly did near the end of the run of 996 TT. I'm sure Loren can be more exact?

I believe the PSM is standard since it came out (m.y. 2000). Enjoy your TT, i do!!! :D Dave.

Rickky, the graphics are determined by the 16-bit configuration, NOT the updated info on the CD. All the CD is is the database that tells the system where to draw the maps and images etc and is therefore designed for the 16-bit version, so the graphics are the same. Unfortunately for us we have to make do, unless you change your car to one with the PCM2 (32 bit) which is much better. You know, I actually cant remember seeing the M6 Toll, but would assume its on there, probably never took any notice. When i mentioned that i was driving on a road that didnt exist, it was a country lane and the PCM thought i was rally crossing!! :-) The major road updates (M6 Toll etc) I guess would be covered. But for me, i havent found that much of a gain from the original Porsche one, but it does depend how much travelling you do and how you use it i guess?? The CD is an original Vauxhall/Opel and is manufactured for such. It is bright yellow and says (mine anyway) 2006/2007. I would take a photo and get it to you, along with confirming the M6 Toll, but i fly to Dominican Republic early tomorrow morning (Wednesday). My overall opinion would be this: Sat Nav is a tool, very much like a microwave. With Sat Nav you have to know vaguely where you are going and what you are doing in order to make the best of it. It helps you, but like a microwave it aint gonna cook a whole meal for you. Get what i mean? So if you aint bothered about spending £110 (i think it is) then do it. It does work and you'll have the piece of mind that it is the most up to date that you can get for your car, but, if you manage OK with what you have and for that matter dont place to much emphasis on the Sat Nav, i personally wouldnt bother. Cheers, Dave.

Hi. I have done this my friend on my PCM1. Yes, Porsche only sell up to 2004 (or something like that) therefore i purchased a disk (2006/2007) from Navteq. It is indeed like you say a "Vauxhall/Opel" disk, therefore when you try to find a service station it directs you to an "Opel" one! However, everything else is sweet. What they also do is send you a 'sofware upgrade' CD that you put into your drive first, the PCM does its thing then you eject and put in the new Vauxhall one. Navteq ask for this CD back. BE WARENED though, if you put your original Porsche CD back in, the software will revert back to its previous level and you will not be able use the Vauxhall one again until you put the software upgrade back in and follow the procedure. Ofcourse, there are CD burners should you wish to switch from time to time?? ;-) In all, i actually havent seen much difference with the new disk, in that i mean i still have driven on roads that 'diddnt exist'!! But i'm sure there are certainly some updates from that of the Porsche one? Things like petrol stations, restaurants etc etc will be up to date. Any other questions, please feel free to ask.

mpikounis, not a problem if you want to quote me. Gert is very good and i believe will give you his best price. I can forward his e-mail should you wish.

Personally I would go with the smoked version for a few reasons, 1) 911's are not chrome intensive, 2) beings your car is black a chrome one would really stand out in general(and not in a good place), 3) that chrome one just looks cheesy in my opinion. Compare it with the taillights on the back of your car are they bright and shiney like the chrome light? As for the price not sure but I have a cheap little old $10k Fiat/Bertone X1/9 that is Momo intensive, Momo is not cheap I know, but their products are good quality. That being said ><$100 is not a bad price for a lighting upgrade on a 911 as long as you know it is a quality product not some look-a-like from China that'll dissentigrate after a month in the sun. = ) Good luck with the choice. Oh and all the 997's I've come across have had tinted 3rd brake lights. They Honestly are alot nicer looking too. One of the few highpoints I like about the 997's. 996 are not chrome intensive, correct. But the 'clear' light is not chrome, its basically Artic silver inside which suits me. But look at the headlights (chrome between lenses and clear) and then with the chrome 'Turbo' badge and chrome twin exhaust, on mine it matches perfectly and looks good, trust me. But I agree with you, he should get smoked in his case.......

I have recently purchased a 'clear' third brake light from Carnewal myself. It is very good. I have a silver 996TT and therefore the clear/silver light was the obvious choice. If i had a black 996, i would go for the smoked. Although to answer your question, i believe the 997's have a cross between clear and smoked? But who cares? Go for what will look best on your car. Word of warning though...... as i have mentioned on another thread, when you get it, you will have to swap the wires on the vehicle side. As the light holds LED's it requires correct polarity. You can either cut and solder wires, cut the polarising 'pip' off or do what i did and 'back out' the crimps in the plastic connector housing (this is difficult!). You say 85 euro? Yes, list price, but if you ask Gert for his best price, as i did, you'll get it at 55 euro, now that is a good price........ obvioulsy plus VAT (21.5%) and delivery. Hope this has helped?

Yeah, could be in mtimmy's case. In mine i had brand new belt (as part of service) and new tensioner (they thought that was the issue). I was never convinced and always suspected the alternator, 'shorting' out when damp/wet, as NO belt slippage was ever heard, which is very obvious when it does. Maybe he has ALL those issues??

Any idea which? Do they have clear or smoked? I have recently purchased a clear one for my 996TT. Everything is the same and in my case a think it is of better quality than the OEM one! It certainly looks better too. One word of warning though, if its of LED type (and they generally are) you will probably have to swap the contacts around in the contector (vehicle connector side) to get the correct polarity. It is a ***** to do, unless you want to cut the wires and solder, or take the polarising 'pip' off.

If i can just put my 2p in here........ I too have a number of rattles in my 996TT and am gradually getting around them and fixing them. With my sunroof 'rattle', when i drove over bumps/pot holes it turned out to be the wind deflector strip at the rear of the sunroof opening. This flicks up when the sunroof is tilted and as it is sprung and fairly flimsy it tends to vibrate and move. The leading/top edge of this has a rubber 'strip' on it and that has a tendancy to hit the underside of the metal cover of the sunroof itself. If you look, you may see a black 'mark' where it rubs up against it. You can simulate the pot holes my hitting (not too hard!) the rear edge of the sunroof and you should hear the same noise. I too thought it was in the headliner further back and putting pressure on it stoppped it. But it turned out to be this in the end and after putting 'foam' pads inside the sunroof where this 'rubs' sorted out the issue. Have a look, maybe it is, maybe its not. Good luck anyway, as i know exactly how frustrating rattles are......

Latest update on this issue. Vehicle went into dealer and they have changed the Alternator under the extended warantee. Apparently they tested it by continuously puring water on the engine lid with a hosepipe etc. In any case, it rained hard here yesterday and it started charging immediately as soon as the engine started. Looks like its sorted..........superb!

I have owned a Boxster S and now a 996 TT. I never found too much of a problem with the Boxster it has to be said. Saying that the clutch was always 'sharp' with a stiffish spring giving rise to not much feel. It did have a smooth action though. In my car it was very easy to pull off with little revs which i always tried to do in order to save the clutch. The Turbo is much the same, albeit it is a power assisted clutch as far as i'm aware. You didnt have trouble with your clutch release bearing did you which would make it very stiff and binding, thus making it difficult to control?? This would then give you ball ache in traffic big time.......

Couple of good tips there guys, thanks. But lets face it, if the alternator does'nt work immediately when you start the engine when its wet, its a very poor show and something cant be right?? I will hasle the dealer to sort it as it should be covered by the extended warrantee. But at least now i have some more information behind me....... Cheers, Dave.

Hi Loren. There is no 'squeak' or apparent slipping up until that point and it is as if something gets 'loaded' at that moment and off we go.....

I had the exact same problem on a brand new (at the time) Boxster S. After filling the tank up fully, the problem went away and never came back. It was as if running the tank 'low', something got stuck as it was tight/new??? Dont know??

Folks...... I have searched in 996 and 996TT forums referencing "alternator" but havent found anything about this issue. Anyway.......this is a good one as it has the dealer stumped!!! I have a 996TT (2001) and when i start the vehicle during or after it has been raining the alternator takes a number of seconds (approx 20 secs) to 'kick in'. The voltage on the dash reads around 11 volts (as you would expect) then after this time has elapsed you here a quick squeek and the voltages rises to the nominal value (approx 14V). This also happens when you poor water on the rear of the car (engine cover) and/or wash it. Now, I know what your thinking, belt loose? However, as part of the service i have had a new belt and they have replaced the belt tensioners to try and sort this issue. Unfortunately it is still doing it....... Any ideas?????? Cheers, Dave.

Hi. From memory (and i've had a New Year and a few Saturday nights since then!) there are TWO speakers within the enclosure, each spaced equal distant from the centre. They are approx 6" diameter. The port tubes (rectangular pipes) go right up to the rear of the cone and then to the front of the enclosure on both far left and right sides. There are only positive and negative wires going to each speaker (two sets) and nothing else, well apart from the pronges that only serve to give unwanted vibrations rather than actually holding the cables down! Havent got photos unfortunately, but really not needed. The most difficult part is unscrewing what seems like 100 torx screews to open it. Everything else is easy. Oh, be carful when you pop off the Bose surrounds of the ports to get to the torx screws holding the enclosure ot the car. You can easily damage the 'clips' that hold them in. Lever it a bit at a time all round and you should be ok. You actually damage them getting them back in too, so make sure they are located properly before going fully home, else you'll bend them off. Good luck, Dave.

Just spotted this thread. I had a squeak in my passenger seat while sitting on it and when you pushed on the backrest (mid way up, lumbar support area). So, i unclipped the cushion off the seat (done by putting your fingers of both hands down the side of the centre cushion, grabbing it hard and lifting it firmly up and off). There are three clips (from memory) on the inside of the top of the cushion which clip onto a bar. Anyway, when you have done this, have a prod around and locate where the noise is. Mine turned out to be the foam packing on the inside of the back of the seat rubbing against the plastic of the souround of the seat. I just stuffed some folded cardboard where it was rubbing........... sorted!!

Well over Christmas i had a good look at this. Firstly i removed the subwoofer from the home position and held it in my hands while some bass was on. As i suspected the subwoofer continued to vibrate/distort so it was not the surrounding panels. The next step was to dismantle the box to see if the cones of the speakers or the parts in the box were making the noise. This was done after removing many many security screws around the edge of the enclosure and lifting it off. I subsequently took the speaker side back into the car and put the same CD track back on to see if the vibration/noise remained. This time the sound was clear, with no disctortion. So once again, my suspicions were panning out. To clarify what was going on, i had to put the enclosure back together and hit/thump the outside to simulate the vibrations of the speakers. You could clearly hear an unwanted vibration located within the enclosure which appeared very similar to the unwanted noise within the car. Therefore it was taken apart again and hit with the box open to see what was moving. Anyway, to cut a long story short. After seeing what parts moved/vibrated inside and repeatedly taking the enclosure apart and putting back together, there were a few key points. There are prongs that hold down the cable inside and it were these that vibrate, just like a tuning fork. Also, one of the ports (tube) for the speaker was very close the the side of the main box and could easily vibrate onto it. To sort all this out i put rubber/foam tape on the end of these prongs and where the port could hit the side. After a few more constructions/deconstructions of the subwoofer enclosure i managed to get a good quality bass reproduction at all frequencies and volumes. Thank god! Something BOSE should look at i think........

I guess it should, surely they must be the same, it would be ridiculous to change that?? Funnily enough, i too have recently purchased the silver overlays. I used (unlike most using clear silicon) high tack/impact double sided tape. It gives you more control as you can put the strips in as many places as you like on the inside of the overlays, then position them just over the dials and go for it! Press into possition and your laughing. OK, the high impact will need a little coaxing to get off again, but surely better than any type of gluey runny mess that is difficult to contol/clean?? Good luck with them, i can sympathise.....