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tuizner

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About tuizner

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Isle of Wight
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    986 2.5 1997
    955 4.5 2004
  • Future cars
    999
  • Former cars
    986
  1. 2007 997C2 I got around to writing up a how to fix here. Needs a new belt buckle as the cable was grounding. http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=125206
  2. Anyone have a wiring diagram for a heated electric seat or part number for the relevant wiring harness? I have a 8024 code = Drivers thorax airbag short circuit to ground. I had this last year and reset on icarsoft but its back. From memory, the thorax wire is being pinched by a clip around the buckle area - I wiggled it along an inch or so and it did the trick but it's back and so I would like to replace the wiring (or wire). I could probably figure it out again but I would have to take the seat out and I want to make sure I can fix it this time.... 97C2 Coupe6 speed RHD
  3. Hi I did find one problem - I wired the connector to the transmission incorrectly - I followed the colours (brown and brown/red) from the original setup rather than following the instructions! Anyway, having rectified that, the issue is that the units work only on the OPEN roof operation. When the microswitch engages in the transmission, the motor switches off. However, once opened (I have no roof installed so am assuming it is open based on the microswitch) the close button then will not operate the motor (the close button also does nothing before the microswitch turns the motor off). Any ideas welcome. Cheers Mat
  4. Well fuses are all OK :angry: Tomorrow I'll check all wiring before reinstalling previous switches and wiring - which I really don't want to do...
  5. Hi Yes replaced the relay with B unit as per the pdf. I'll check the fuses...
  6. Hi Maurice Well it WAS the screws holding the plastic rear in place that was making the worm disengage as you pointed out. I have tightened everything up now but as I had already bought a new B version transmission, I installed those as per your pdf inlcuding the rewire. Upon trialling, the hood, it moved in one direction (cant remember which way - no roof installed yet) but after travelling to it's end stop (microswitch must have worked) it will not now operate in either direction. Any ideas muchly appreciated. Best regards Mat
  7. Thanks Maurice I synched the units (several times) but still one contiunued running whilst the other seemed to disengage from the worm drive. You linked guide is fantastic - thanks very much. I think that as the car is now 13yrs old (wow that went fast) I should really update the old units for newer and more relaible units and so I intend to follow your lead and install B units plus a glass roof. I'll start to collect the bits over the next few weeks and keep you updated. Is there anything you recall that isnt in the guide that would help? I cant see there is as the guide is pretty comprehensive but htought I'd ask away :) Cheers Mat
  8. Hi Have a problem with a '97 986. It seems a typical problem but is maybe slightly different: The transmission units started "knocking" when the clamshell closed. On inspection one of the red sockets had broken so it was replaced. Next time it was tried and the same knocking occurred - looked again and this time the V-arm had twisted!! on the same side (right), so bought a new one. Tried again and the same thing happened - another twisted V-arm. Now decided to get the big mallet out and re-shape the arm. Looked again and noticed that the 3 bolt/lugs holding the transmsision unit in place on the right were bent upwards resulting in the transmission canting over a few degrees and causing the clamshell (and roof) to be out of sync. I Persuaded the lugs back to level with a gentle tap on the wood end of a hammer and started to run the system without the push-rods in place to prevent any more disfigurement. I noticed that the left side transmission was stopping right at the end of the "roof close" but the right side continued for some reason (this being the cause of the damage). The left side seems to be disengaging the worm drive (you can see it when looking directly at the transmission that the end of the worm is pulling inside the transmission and disengaging. Microswitch on the clamshell is working OK. Transmission cables seem fine My conclusion is that the left side transmission unit is Bu*&^$%d and so I am going to replace - unless anyone has any ideas? The main question though is can I replace the early transmission units (with moon gears) with later units that may be more effective? And if so is there anything else than needs to be done or changed? Cheers Mat
  9. I simply phoned Porsche with my VIN and they gave it to me. It helped that I've been servicing with them for the past 5 years but I reckon I'm now getting some of my money back...
  10. I have exactly the same issue. Did you resolve at all? I have tried the reverse polarity battery and the 6second tips - but to no avail.
  11. Thanks for the info. The clamshell looks fine - not loose or out of alignment. Lubrication - will do this week. Transmission out of sync - Would be one of my guesses. I remember that the transmission armatures were slightly out from near-side to off-side (but only a few degrees - almost imperceptible). I will have a play again this week. Oh and while I'm here, the car is actually my wifes and she tells me its a lifer so I guess I'm going to have to learn my way around the car a bit more unless I want large Porsche bills for everything that goes wrong. Is there a recommended book detailing either the technical description of the car or how to maintain and repair? Many thanks Mat
  12. Hi Posted a couple of days ago on ppbb about my roof. It starts clonking right at the end of the roof up cycle just as the plastic tonneau panel is at the end of its cycle (i.e. flush with the bodywork). The sounds seem to be the transmissions or cables popping. Yes its a 97 and I have checked the transmission cables after reading tool pants description here - the outers were not stretched and had 3/4" square profile cable sticking out. The roof was slightly out of true but I unscrewed the red ball socket on one side by one turn which trued the roof up fine. But I still get a popping noise especially from one side. Is there a microswitch somewhere? Interestingly if you do not keep the roof-up-button pressed and allow the popping sounds to finish, you cannot then take the hood (roof - Excuse me I'm British) down. Any ideas gratefully received. Cheers Mat
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