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About ziiz996

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  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2000 C2 996
  • Former cars
    BoxterS 993
  1. Listen to Loren. he is the expert. He was hinting that you might not need to replace the tensioner. It is a pretty intense job. You have to remove the air filter box, throttle body, loosen and remove the A/C compressor, The Power steering pump /fill reservoir and the Intake manifold cylindrical chambers that connect the 2 intake manifolds. You can remove the left intake manifold to give yourself more room, A lot of cables, air and coolant hoses are also in the way. Once you get to the tensioner and after you remove the pulley of the tensioner, you go around the back side to remove the arm and unbolt the old tensioner. To install the new one, is also a complex process that can end up messing up your mechanicals that are driven by the belt. The power steering pump alone is a nightmare to remove and its reservoir connects to a plastic hose that if you broke it, you will end up paying a fortune to replace. Pay a Porsche dealer not an Indy to do it. trust me. Taking a step back, why do you want to replace the tensioner? Use a Breaker bar to move the tensioner pulley easily. it makes it 90% easier to rotate clockwise. WITH THE BELT ON THE PULLEYS, If you can rotate the serpentine belt to 90 degrees from its normal position between the Alternator and the water pump then your tension is fine. Use Porsche belts. Spend your time AND MONEY on installing a 3rd radiator, it IS a better investment for your engine and your driving experience.
  2. I posted my simplistic MS paint version rendition of what a Panamera profile should've looked like almost 8 years ago. Some Readers went up in arms trying to leverage the ugliness of the profile of the first Panamera generation with functionality!!! HOWEVER, AND FINALLY the newest generation of the Panamera mitigated this artistic FAUX-PAS and it looks great! The major changes were applied to the profile of the car getting rid of the ugliest hump that cringed every stomach of every car enthusiast on the planet.. Unfortunately or Fortunately, I can no longer find the (rather controversial) Topic that I originally posted...
  3. TO all those folks who experienced clunking problems AFTER upgrade/replacement of control arms of any sort. 99% most likely the install was not done properly. There are Coffin Control Arms, Fork Control Arms and Drop Links. They must be installed/ AND TORQUED properly or you will hear the Clunks.
  4. Follow up. Be careful purchasing non Porsche parts. Apparently there are 2 wheel bearing parts numbers that *** (Porsche OEM) sells. The auto parts suppliers indicated that they are not identical in Diameters!!! I am ordering a Porsche genuine part to mitigate this situation.
  5. I was able to remove the old bearing using tool below and the with a new wheel bearing. I used a breaker ratchet and still it went in very tightly. I used a long bolt with a disk (Picture below) that is the size of the hub shaft in the front and a large disk (metal) in the back and a long NUT. Refer to toolkit below; I had the HUB in the freezer and put some Kroil on the hub before inserting it in the wheel bearing; HOWEVER the front wheel hub went in too easily in the wheel bearing! with a ratchet breaker bar.!!! When done, I noticed that the hub had a some play and I could see the red rubber outside seal ring was moving as well!! Could it be that the new wheel bearing is defective? Remember that the The Keyboard froze on my last comment. I wanted to add that the outer race was stuck on the hub when I removed it and it took a lot of force to remove the old race. actually it ended up breaking and finally came off. But the hub shaft looked OK.
  6. so if I loosen the 3rd Lower control arm bolt after I mark it, will that allow to lower the Knuckle? Do I need to support it from BEFORE I loosen the 3rd bolt? all other control arms are still connected, but loosened.
  7. Could use some professional knowledge on this topic. 1, Can you replace the wheel bearing without removing the front Knuckle from the car. The strut is in the way behind the knuckle for me to insert wheel bearing removal tool. Looks like the knuckle needs to lowered 2 or 3 inches to make clearance. I loosened 2 of the 3 the coffin control arm bolts except for the bolt connected to the sub-frame (the 2 bolts one for Fork control arm and one for the bottom of the Knuckle). I loosened but did not remove the bolt for the strut/Drop Link). 2. If I remove this bolt and loosen the 3rd coffin arm bolt do I have have to mark the threads before removing? I read somewhare that that bolt needs to be torqued after unjacking the car. 3. Would that allow me to lower the knuckle a few inches to access the back of the Wheel Bearing? Alignment issues? Help is much appreciated.
  8. Thanks JFP! Your diligence has been impeccable. Yes the car behaved exactly as you stated... Your feedback has been priceless...
  9. Thanks for replying! AOS was purchased from Sunset Porsche. The car is no longer smoking. I tried removing the oil cap while engine is running, it was tough to remove, but doable. It felt like there was suction. Is the engine supposed to keep running flawlessly after removing the oil cap? OR does the idle rev higher OR does it become low and stutters?
  10. hi There Carlos Its been a few years. you probably drive a 991 now! Do you recall what caused your new AOS to fail?
  11. Carlos


    I know its been years but do you recall how you ended up resolving your AOS problem?


  12. The Problem was solved!!! The way I had the o'rings was correct! However, the problem was that the return line pipe was slightly kinked. I was able to finally remove it by positioning an 11mm wrench around the red locking Oring and pushed. After straightening the return line, it went in all the way, with a lot of small little pushes and a lot of silicon spray on both ends.
  13. Hi Loren I have a question about the RED locking o'ring for the return line. 1. Removal was straightforward. I pushed the Red Plastic Locking o'ring toward the back of lower reservoir and the return line came right out smoothly. 2, Installation problems. I had to transplant the RED locking O'ring from my old PS Pump/Lower Reservoir to a replacement pump/Lower reservoir because it was missing on the replacement reservoir.. The plastic Locking Red O'ring popped right out. Inside the return line cavity where it came out from was a regular rubber O'ring. The Question is: Does the rubber O'ring FIT around the latching gripping arms of the plastic Locking RED O'ring then the RED locking O'ring is inserted in the cavity of the return line OR does the extra rubber O'ring go in first, and then the RED Locking plastic O'ring goes in next? I tried the latter option and the Return line did not go in as smoothly as it came out and stopped about a quarter inch from its expected final location. Also, when I pushed on the Red Locking O'ring to re-remove the return line, it did not feel as it felt when I originally pushed it when I removed the return line from the old reservoir. AND the return line is STUCK and can no longer be removed. I don't want to force the return line out of the reservoir because it looks like it is too fragile and breaking it will turn into a nightmare of towing the car to a Freon removal facility, removing the AC compressor, replacing the line, reassembling, re-charging the AC system. etc... Any suggestions are much appreciated..
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