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Thanks JFP, system took just under 2 lbs and working like new.
I get "C" codes every time I use my Durametric tool and, in my 12 years of ownership of my car, have never experienced any issues with systems for which the "C" codes refer. Have also read that these codes aren't necessarily referencing a failed system as is the case with "P" codes but are informational in nature. Resetting codes will get these C codes to go away only to have them resurface next time I go into the system. In light of the fact that there have been no failures of any of the systems noted by these codes, and while they may mean something to a Porsche tech , I stopped worrying about them some time ago without incident.
dphatch replied to dphatch's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)As an update, could not source the tool to remove the clutch so replaced compressor that included new clutch and pully assembly. Given the price of just the replacement clutch/pully assembly, the cost for a new compressor ( $325 tax and shipping included for an identical DENSO replacement from the OEM manufacturer ) and the fact that the existing compressor was 12 yrs old , it did not make sense to continue the mess with replacing the clutch on a 12 yr old compressor.
dphatch replied to j_beede's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)As I recall when I replaced front pads they were not evenly worn either but can't say what impact, if any, it had on braking performance As for the lip, wear limit on the disc is 2mm, if lip measures 1.5mm now it would make sense to me to replacing front discs while you're at it. Not sure it would make financial sense to them turned even if you could find someone to do it these days. As for brake fluid , I use Pentosin Dot 4 in my '07 as it is Porsche recommended. Brake fluids designed for track use have a higher boiling point than those formulated for street use and as such aren't necessary for street use in my opinion. Good article from Hemmings web site on brake fluid below. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2013/12/06/tech-101-brake-fluids-whats-different-about-them-and-why-should-you-care/
dphatch replied to S4 MGY's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)First thing to check would be a bad fuse if switch isn't working at all. If switch will raise and lower window you need to completely raise and lower the driver and passenger windows twice to reprogram window any time battery has been disconnected, or I our in your case, completely discharged . As for door , check the that position on the switch in the over head console is in the center position. . Battery going dead would not effect the door lights once battery issue was corrected.
Can anyone tell me the amount of Freon needed to refill AC system on 2007 997.1 after it has been refit and the system has been evacuated ?
dphatch replied to dphatch's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Thanks for responding. All the YouTube videos, while limited, I watched of guy's removing the clutch from Denso units on Porsches showed it coming right off, almost falling off as a matter of fact. Being pressed on would explain why nothing I tried would budge it. Local Autozone did not have anything in the way removal tools that would fit the threads of the clutch but found one set on Amazon that claims to work on Denso units. Will order one up and see. While I've got you, I found 2 specs for bearing … 30 x 52 x 20 and 35 x 52 x 20. Can you confirm which is correct ?
Having difficulty removing ac clutch/pully to replace bad pully bearing . Have removed bolt securing the clutch to pully but can not remove it. AC is functional and is switched off- negative battery terminal removed. Am confused as to why, if the clutch will engage and disengage, when actuated why it will not come off the ac compressor shaft ? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
dphatch replied to oscaac's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Loren, I think you are exactly right. My mistake. Guess it was the "cracked tank" comment that got me going as only cracked issue I've had was with coolant tank. Hope all will accept my apology.
dphatch replied to oscaac's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)I have done this and the removal and replacement of the coolant tank, even with the engine lowered, is not a simple task as the tank is fully encased in the engine bay, is oddly shaped and quite long.(I am willing to bet is was installed prior to the engine install when these cars were manufactured. Not sure why you would want to remove any tires/wheels in an effort to remove it from underneath the car as there is no access to the tank from underneath the car. Maybe if you took mufflers and muffler carrier brackets out ??? I would love to see that video. I removed and replaced tank from engine bay directly and while getting it out was a chore, getting it back in was something else again. Disconnecting stuff was the easy part but still requires some creativity. Getting the tank back in, on the other hand , requires lots of creativity and the patients of Job as the tank has to be positioned at just such and angle, due to the length odd shape so as to allow it to go in unhindered by existing engine bay stuff. Need to memorize exactly how it came out I guess. Certainly do-able but not a 1 wrench.
dphatch replied to 0356kid's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Have you entertained the idea of having the car wrapped instead ? A professionally done full spray color change ( door jams, engine bay, etc..). will cost you a small fortune and my never look like it factory paint. Wrap on the other might be couple grand or so and could be removed prior to sale or if you wanted to change it again. Given the lack of responses it might be easier to find someone to wrap the car vs paint it in your immediate area. Good luck with the project either way.
dphatch replied to mocohead's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)225 is not out of spec for a 997 oil temp so nothing likely is wrong with oil temp gauge. Coolant is cooled by front radiators. Same coolant is used to reduce oil temp through a heat exchanger located on the top of the engine. Not the ideal method of cooling oil but it's plays a roll in keeping engine up to optimal temp for emission control. Adding the 3rd radiator can assist in keeping temp down a bit. My cars oil runs at around 215 but can hit 225 on hot days in normal or slow traffic. 3rd radiator greatly improve oil temp recovery time back to my normal 215. Prior to installing, temp would be slow to come down, if at all, once it reached that 225 temp.
Looking for some recommendations on manual transmission rebuilders in the Midwest. 2007 997 C4S exhibiting unwillingness to engage reverse gear. Recent clutch replacement. All forward gears engage fully and no issues downshifting while driving, only issue is when engaging reverse, the synchro will not fully engage. Cables have been checked and are not the issue. All gears can be engaged manually at tranny and with shifter when car is stationary, engine running and off. With transmission removed from car no symptoms on a mechanical problem were apparent. Tranny oil replacement with Mobilube PTX is next step but if that doesn't remediate the problem only other solution is tranny teardown and rebuild.
dphatch replied to dphatch's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)These would EPA compliant 48 state legal DEC cats. Spec'd specifically for model , engine and year from Parts Geek. Am guessing they may lower cell count but street but street legal and a whole lot less than $ 2300 OEM Porsche cats which is significant upcharge for a logo.
Getting ready to ship a new car from east coast dealer to my home in the Midwest. Can anyone give me some suggestions transport guys they have used and had good experience with ? First time for me so any advice would be appreaciated.