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dphatch

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About dphatch

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    Contributing Member

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Indiana
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2007 997 C4S Cab 20012 Jaguar XF 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 WT

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779 profile views
  1. Am wanting to replace the spring loaded belt tensioner# 997 102 260 00, not the pulley attached to. All of the idler and accessary pullies (AC, alternator, Water pump) are functioning normally. My original Google search shows lots of how too'sI for replacing auxiliary pullies and belt replacement but nothin covering the actual belt tensioner itself.
  2. The drive belt tensioner on my '07 C4S is getting harder and harder to actuate when removing/replacing the serpentine belt. There is also a great deal of tension on the belt itself that feels excessive. Given the age of the part, I'd like to replace it, ( all belt pullies have already been replaced). Has anyone seen/developed a DIY video/write-up on the process and could point me in that direction ? Given it's location it appears to fairly involved and would like some help identifying all that's involved from someone who has don't it.
  3. Great, that answers my questions and confirms what I had heard regarding the oil levels and its effect on the AOS. Unfortunately that info was not widely distributed either during the lifetime of the first AOS or that of the replacement so they where both self-destructing as a result. The owners manual makes no mention of that issue nor did the local dealership when they filled the sump to the line above the "fill line " the few times I let them change it. I will follow that advice from now on and feel better about the potential lifespan the new part may enjoy after the install. Thanks.
  4. It wasn't after market as it was purchased from Sunset Porsche directly, prt # 997-107-038-00, in July 2014 . New part number still ends in 00 so should I expect to get the same service from it IE.. life span of the factory part ? Is the racing version of the part worth the $800 + price tag for a street car drive with gusto , but well short of racetrack gusto and that only with the hope a semi-permanent fix ? One other question, the 2 parts they call "oil separators " that appear to go to either side of the engine ( in Sunsets parts diagram they carry the same part number as the main AOS ) do you know what function they serve and should I replace as the same time assuming they are external and not internal parts ?
  5. Can anyone tell me if there are any signs of the failure for the internal AOS for 2007 997 C4S. I have read several posts regarding the primary AOS but none relating to the internal 2 internal versions. Have replaced one faulty AOS with a tear in internal membrane but would like to rule out issues that may arise with the internal versions before I replace a second primary AOS.
  6. Thanks JFP, system took just under 2 lbs and working like new.
  7. I get "C" codes every time I use my Durametric tool and, in my 12 years of ownership of my car, have never experienced any issues with systems for which the "C" codes refer. Have also read that these codes aren't necessarily referencing a failed system as is the case with "P" codes but are informational in nature. Resetting codes will get these C codes to go away only to have them resurface next time I go into the system. In light of the fact that there have been no failures of any of the systems noted by these codes, and while they may mean something to a Porsche tech , I stopped worrying about them some time ago without incident.
  8. As an update, could not source the tool to remove the clutch so replaced compressor that included new clutch and pully assembly. Given the price of just the replacement clutch/pully assembly, the cost for a new compressor ( $325 tax and shipping included for an identical DENSO replacement from the OEM manufacturer ) and the fact that the existing compressor was 12 yrs old , it did not make sense to continue the mess with replacing the clutch on a 12 yr old compressor.
  9. As I recall when I replaced front pads they were not evenly worn either but can't say what impact, if any, it had on braking performance As for the lip, wear limit on the disc is 2mm, if lip measures 1.5mm now it would make sense to me to replacing front discs while you're at it. Not sure it would make financial sense to them turned even if you could find someone to do it these days. As for brake fluid , I use Pentosin Dot 4 in my '07 as it is Porsche recommended. Brake fluids designed for track use have a higher boiling point than those formulated for street use and as such aren't necessary for street use in my opinion. Good article from Hemmings web site on brake fluid below. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2013/12/06/tech-101-brake-fluids-whats-different-about-them-and-why-should-you-care/
  10. First thing to check would be a bad fuse if switch isn't working at all. If switch will raise and lower window you need to completely raise and lower the driver and passenger windows twice to reprogram window any time battery has been disconnected, or I our in your case, completely discharged . As for door , check the that position on the switch in the over head console is in the center position. . Battery going dead would not effect the door lights once battery issue was corrected.
  11. Can anyone tell me the amount of Freon needed to refill AC system on 2007 997.1 after it has been refit and the system has been evacuated ?
  12. Thanks for responding. All the YouTube videos, while limited, I watched of guy's removing the clutch from Denso units on Porsches showed it coming right off, almost falling off as a matter of fact. Being pressed on would explain why nothing I tried would budge it. Local Autozone did not have anything in the way removal tools that would fit the threads of the clutch but found one set on Amazon that claims to work on Denso units. Will order one up and see. While I've got you, I found 2 specs for bearing … 30 x 52 x 20 and 35 x 52 x 20. Can you confirm which is correct ?
  13. Having difficulty removing ac clutch/pully to replace bad pully bearing . Have removed bolt securing the clutch to pully but can not remove it. AC is functional and is switched off- negative battery terminal removed. Am confused as to why, if the clutch will engage and disengage, when actuated why it will not come off the ac compressor shaft ? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  14. Loren, I think you are exactly right. My mistake. Guess it was the "cracked tank" comment that got me going as only cracked issue I've had was with coolant tank. Hope all will accept my apology.
  15. I have done this and the removal and replacement of the coolant tank, even with the engine lowered, is not a simple task as the tank is fully encased in the engine bay, is oddly shaped and quite long.(I am willing to bet is was installed prior to the engine install when these cars were manufactured. Not sure why you would want to remove any tires/wheels in an effort to remove it from underneath the car as there is no access to the tank from underneath the car. Maybe if you took mufflers and muffler carrier brackets out ??? I would love to see that video. I removed and replaced tank from engine bay directly and while getting it out was a chore, getting it back in was something else again. Disconnecting stuff was the easy part but still requires some creativity. Getting the tank back in, on the other hand , requires lots of creativity and the patients of Job as the tank has to be positioned at just such and angle, due to the length odd shape so as to allow it to go in unhindered by existing engine bay stuff. Need to memorize exactly how it came out I guess. Certainly do-able but not a 1 wrench.
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