jimyboyle

Hi Loren engine just cuts out, starts again instantly in Park, put it into reverse and it struggles to run, revs drop - might come back up, drop then cut out. Maybe move a few feet each time in reverse Jim

Does not really want to go in reverse, not tried wiggling the stick, put it in reverse, foot off brake and it drives for about a second then cuts out Jim

Car is a 1997 tiptronic, 2.5. 90,000 miles Plugs and coils renewed about 1000 miles ago and throttle body cleaned in situ. Goes forward fine but when I put it into reverse the engine will cut out, takes 4 or 5 attempts just to reverse into my driveway Anyone with a suggestion Jim

Hi Loren the dash display does not register any bars atall, does its flashing sequence then at the end none of the bars are solid, the oil was changed at the garage, (he also has a Boxster), and is at the maximum level on the dipstick I will do the checks as listed in your reply, thanks Jim

1997 2.5 tiptronic. Just got back on the road after 12 month lay up due to brake pipe problems and winter weather, had the oil changed while at it. It drives fine except according to the dash display the oil is too low and the oil warning light flashes for a fraction of a second every 15 minutes or so. However according to the dipstick the oil level is at maximum. Any ideas anyone? Just to keep me happy as I started typing this the the alarm went off and it has decided to go on and off even with the doors unlocked, had to disconnect the battery to stop it. Jim

I decided to change the brake disks and fit braided pipes to the front of my 2.5 boxster. The nearside was no problem atall but the offside was a different prospect. When I tried to disconnect the flexible pipe from the main fixed brake pipe at the bracket on the inner wing it would not budge. Nothing will turn the nut, I used the correct brake pipe type spanner, tried heat, releasing spray, then stillsons and finally vice grips. It will not move and now I think I have no option but to cut it and replace this pipe as the nut is ruined but still stuck. Has anyone ever replaced this pipe and can give me an idea where the pipe run is or how much work will be involved in replacing it, it bends up inside the inner wing so I don't know if it runs outside the car before going up to the ABS unit.

I have a similar problem with my 97 boxster, getting my hard top painted, went to pick it up and the roof will not go down. handbrake light is on, windows drop and when I press the switch there is a clunk from where the motor is. Let go the switch, another clunk, not a relay type noise, like hitting your knuckles on a desk. Ideas for the problem would be appreciated as I need to get the hardtop from the painters. A suggestion for the best way to drop the top and repair it later, after I get the hardtop, would help. jim

Mine's is a 1997 2.5 and does exactly the same. Also changed the fluid to no effect. I am sure there is another post somewhere on the site saying it is a quirk with the box and not a desparate problem. Still annoying though, for some reason mine does it on the same section of road, coming uphill to a roundabout near my house , slow down and as you try to move off the engine revs shoot up and then it engages with a clunk. Perhaps connected to the enging loading on the hill. Maybe it just does not want to go home. Jim

Thanks Loren, I will give that a try Jim

Car is a 1997 2.5 The ABS light has started coming on intermittently, I tested with the Durometric software and it is showing fault codes 4200 and 4210, which is a short / ground problem on the front and rear, right side, wheel sensors. It seem unlikely both sensors would decide to have a fault at the same time. Any ideas from anyone. Jim

Thanks Brad, I will be getting it checked this week, I am sure it was not like this before so maybe the springs are a goner Jim

Not been on a track since i've had it and its a tiptronic so probably not been raced. My idea is to rebuild the spare calipers and then give them to my local tyre and brake shop to fit them with new discs and pads. Much easier when its on a ramp. Jim Jim - Hard to say without seeing it. I would want to be sure all the suspension components supporting the wheel carrier and hub, (as well as the hub) including the bearings, are in proper shape. But, a first guess would be that the caliper pistons are not extending and retracting properly. The push out in a cocked fashion. That can be due to a worn out bore seal or from the piston being scored - possibly both. Could also be some sort of build up of crud in the cylinder. You can rebuild the calipers you have with new pistons, bore seals and dust boots. It is not too hard. I just did this to my track 986S calipers. Was about $380 including a couple of liters of fluid. You need to get the pistons out though, to be sure you order the right size bore seals and dust boots. The first bit of the piston is not the same size as the back part that is sealed by the bore seal. You can take them apart and inspect and reinstall all if they are not bad, as long as you do not damage the bore seal when you remove. The seal and boots are not too expensive - the pistons are the bulk of the cost. Job requires a very thorough brake bleeding - but I would flush if you are going to do this. (I also bead blasted my calipers and repainted while I had them off.) I can give more details on how to do a rebuild if needed. You didn't say if this was a track car. VERY often braking issues on a track car occur because of differnet levels of grip in the four corners, often due to using -- say a new tire on the left front, and on the right front, one with several heat cycles -- in this example, the left one will do more braking and wear those pads out faster. But the symptons you describe don't really match this.

My car is a 97 2.5 with 84000 miles Two questions. Had this car for 3 years now. The braking has never been good and about 3000 miles ago i had new front discs and pads fitted. Cannot say it really helped. Yesterday I put my finger over the top of the disc to feel the amount of wear on the back of the disc, I expected the usual lip that you can catch with your nail but it is in fact nearly 1/2" wide. The pad has badly worn the inside part of the swept area and done almost nothing at the outside. I have 2 calipers my son bought with the intention of fitting to his old 911, They are parts 986.351.421 and 422 so from a Boxster. I will get them rebuilt and fit them but any ideas for this unusual wear. I also noticed that my rear wheels and tipping in at the top, don't remember seeing this before and it is quite pronounced, standard wheels and tyres. Is this normal or does something need adjusting or replacing Jim

A couple of weeks ago I changed to the higher performance headlight bulbs and when i re-installed the headlights only the RH light worked. i pulled out and re fitted the LH one several times before I noticed that although the fixed connector in the headlamp shell looked solid it was loose. There was no way the connector on the headlight was going to make contact with it. ( the plastic mount is cracked) I disconnected it and found the wire is long enough to connect the headlight before sliding it into the wing. You could try that and see if the lights work Jim

I did check the fuse it was fine and its a tiptronic. Ive been away since sunday and when i came back today i tried it and it felt as if it tried to start so i put the battery on charge for 5 hours, although it was still cranking the motor fine. Its a 911 sized battery so i reckoned with a full charge i could really give it a try. After about 10 minutes it burst into life and idled as if nothing had ever been wrong. I will still get it checked out after the holidays. Jim

Changed the door lock and now no more horn beeps on locking or unlocking, didn't help, still won't start. Alarm unit is nice and dry inside, no sign of any dampness so it looks like the Porsche Centre after the holidays. Jim

My car is a 1997 2.5. There is a problem with the near side door lock microswitch and i have a new one to fit. This morning when i unlocked the car the horn beeped twice and the central locking was continually locking and unlocking. It has done this before. (but always started first time) When i tried to start it all the dash lights worked and the engine turned over fine but made no attempt to start. There is some of the usual dampness behind the seats but no water and the electrics below the seat are dry. I left it a while and tried again. Now the central locking is OK, the window drops when I lift the handle but it still won't start although the engine spins fine. Would the microswitch in the lock affect the starting and if it is the alarm unit getting damp would the engine still spin? Some time ago the engine check light would come on occasionally which the independent specialist reckons is a fault with one of the vario cam units but the car runs really nicely. Anyone got an idea where i should start to look Jim

My car is a1997 2,5 with 86000 miles. Sometimes when i go over a hole in the road there is quite a loud single clanking sound from the front left side. It actually sounds as if it is coming from inside the lower dash but i assume it is from the suspension. It does not happen frequently and might not happen on even a bad bump. The car went through it's government inspection last month without any comment or problem and the noise has been there since i got the car three years ago. No other symptoms, steering feels fine, no movement in the steering when i hear the noise. is there anything i could look for that would have not been apparent to the mechanic who inspected the car for it's annual test?

Thats the roof finally fitted and it looks quite good with its new glass window. It closed with the roof correctly locating in the B pillar grooves, i will leave it closed for a while to let the canvas stretch and try opening and closing to see if it still locates correctly. The vinyl 'curtain' that locates onto the rear bow to deflect water into the foam liners has never been connected to anything other than the bow. Can anyone say where it locates on the rear of the car, nothing seems obvious to me Jim

A large hammer would be a better idea, still trying to get it finished. Maybe this week be be the end of the saga. Not a good experience but perhaps because someone had been at it before me. After I managed to get all the 'correct' parts i found the holes for the cable anchor on the bottom of the posts were stripped. Fixed that but now struggling to get the second of the aluminium plates located at the side above the door. Jim

Bearsden

It has been so long since i started this i cannot remember which way up the rear weather seal fits on the bow. Can anyone confirm this is the correct way up

The foam seals are supplied as part of convertable top kit part number P000.043.300.45 ( £38.00 in UK ) The kit also includes a head lining and some self adhesive velcro which i presume is to attach the lining. I failed to find a way to get the seals as a separate item. Jim Boyle

Maurice, I have the final answer from Porsche, Germany. The information that is available saying that the longer sliders should be used is out of date and will be re-written. The 02 sliders are the correct up to date item and the only ones available from the factory for 986 Boxsters That they are in 03 marked bags does not matter. I have measured the 00 and 02 and there is a difference in the hole sizes and the slot width as well as the centre distance from the holes to the slot. I have just measured from the side of the slot to the side of the hole and because they are on different levels it may not be exact but there is a difference. I will commence with the assembly and see what happens. Jim