dndodd

I reused the bolts, they didn't look like anything special. Not sure it is the correct thing to do though?

Your on the right track. Gray ramps. Don't over torque the bolts and do it evenly in a cross pattern. New Factory Gaskets recommended. You may have to loosen the cats where they connect to the engine and the mufflers to rotate them slightly for a better fit to the header.

elrover, I just did this about three weeks ago. The only tip I can add is I used four wood - wood clamps on the lines in the wheel wells (2 per side) to stop all of the Anti Freeze from coming out. This didn't damage the hoses. Filled the system back up before starting the car and had zero problems. PM me if you have any questions. dndodd

I did not remove the rear bumper to do my install. I did remove the support behind the wheel, body to the fender, to ease the removal of the muffler. I installed the APR mufflers last weekend. I took your advice and did not remove the bumper. I did remove the bumper stays at the rear of the wheel wells, as well as, the rear wheels. It was an easy install, up about 3-4 feet on my lift, and sounds fantastic. I removed the PSE and coiled up the vacuum lines to protect them from heat. I have a lift too and that is exactly how I do it. Just put Remus cans on yesterday to add to my AWE headers and cats. The stock cans with cats were fairly loud the Remus cans are fairly quiet while improving flow.

There are holes 4 to be exact. Took a ride to the Dealers and checked out a 911 w/Tip.

I just installed the Center radiator in my 06 C2S. I have a question for X-51 and Tip owners. Does your bumper cover have holes or vents underneath the Radiator for the HOT air to go directly out the bottom? It sure seems obvious to me but I am not an engineer that there should be some way for this hot air to vent. In the parts book on line I noticed several different part numbers for front covers with no specifics. Mine has nothing and is solid. So I am thinking I should be cutting a hole but the TSB for the x -51 does not address this issue though it talks about installing the Center Radiator. Thanks to the members of this board and Loren taking the Bumper cover off and mounting the Center radiator was very straight forward. One additional tip I have; To limit the loss of anti-freeze I clamped off the lines in the wheel wells with wood-wood clamps- 2 each side. Worked well. Filled the system back up got her up to 175 degrees and no problems.

I did not remove the rear bumper to do my install. I did remove the support behind the wheel, body to the fender, to ease the removal of the muffler.

I have their software on my C2S and I am very happy with it. Their exhausts are made by B & B last I heard. They are good people and stand by their products. No first hand experience with their exhausts though.

The exhaust itself is not difficult at all. Running the wiring is probably time consuming.

I put 305's on my stock Lobsters, C2S. They actually were take offs from a C4S. I don't think it makes a big difference and will more likely than not go back to 295's on the next set. I wouldn't sweat it, enjoy the car. The back tires wear very quickly anyways.

Pull each fuse until you find one that is blown. There should be some kind of guide in the manual or on the car that will identify each fuse.

I know Porsche says 1 quart per 1000 miles is ok but most cars are not consuming such a large amount of oil and are closer to one quart per 2500-5000 miles with a wide range driving styles. Consumption of 1 quart per 1000 miles would mean a GALLON of oil very 4,000 miles or 10 GALLONS of oil at 40,000 miles!!!! The oil consumption is the only thing I am not happy about with my car. I haven't added a drop of oil to my wife's S4 since it was new following the recommended oil change intervals.

I'm also doing the X-51 airbox install in short time. Earlier information says that you need to remove the alternator to install the oil filler tube. Can I do the install of the oil filler tube by removing the plenum? Is it a easy install? Besides the Cutting the hole in the lid which is apain the Oil tube install is as much or a bigger pain. You really do need to take out the alternator and I found taking out the plenum helped me get to the back screw on the filler tube and the nut on the main wire to the alternator. The problem with the alternator is where the Main approx. 4" bolt holds it on the mount. The tolerances between the mount and the Alternator around this bolt are very tight. This requires some careful wedging etc to pry the alt out then some careful hammering with a Rubber mallet to put it back in. I found my 1/4" ratchet and extensions valuable in this installation. You will also need a set of female Torx sockets to do this job. The screws on MAF are special and either require a special tool or in my case I used a small pare of vise grips to get them out. You may want to find some replacements for these before you get started. Instructions on removing and reinstalling the plenum can be found here. http://roadsportsupply.com/PDFs/IPD/Plenum...97300_97301.pdf Good luck. No regrets on my part. Hopefully you have checked out my other posts on the install too. Thanks a lot for your information. I will check you post about the install. Merry christmas :) Due a search on the Alternator removal too. There is an easier way than what I went through. Basically loosen the long bolt about a 1/4" of an inch and put a socket on the nut. Tap it with a hammer a few times and the that should push the bushing back enough to allow the Alt to slide out easily.

I'm also doing the X-51 airbox install in short time. Earlier information says that you need to remove the alternator to install the oil filler tube. Can I do the install of the oil filler tube by removing the plenum? Is it a easy install? Besides the Cutting the hole in the lid which is apain the Oil tube install is as much or a bigger pain. You really do need to take out the alternator and I found taking out the plenum helped me get to the back screw on the filler tube and the nut on the main wire to the alternator. The problem with the alternator is where the Main approx. 4" bolt holds it on the mount. The tolerances between the mount and the Alternator around this bolt are very tight. This requires some careful wedging etc to pry the alt out then some careful hammering with a Rubber mallet to put it back in. I found my 1/4" ratchet and extensions valuable in this installation. You will also need a set of female Torx sockets to do this job. The screws on MAF are special and either require a special tool or in my case I used a small pare of vise grips to get them out. You may want to find some replacements for these before you get started. Instructions on removing and reinstalling the plenum can be found here. http://roadsportsupply.com/PDFs/IPD/Plenum...97300_97301.pdf Good luck. No regrets on my part. Hopefully you have checked out my other posts on the install too.

Thanks much.

I wouldn't consider it light. I wiped it with a rag. I was wondering if something could be wrong in Crankcase Ventilation system to cause this. My car also consumes a Quart of Oil every 650-1500 miles mostly in the 1200-1500 mile range and currently has a little over 14K on it.

Recently when installing the x-51 Air box I found it necessary to remove the plenum to allow me to install the oil filler tube. I noticed a coating of oil inside the the plenum that seems excessive. Anybody have an Idea as to what could be defective to cause this? I would have expected to find some but not as much as I found.

well i finished my install , of the x51 intake and the headers. the alternator removal was a pain, it just would not come out, but once again the forum helped me out, the bushing on the alternator gets rusted, so it wont budge, but few bang with the hammer on the bolt it loosened up the bushing an the alternator came righ out. oil filler pipe swap was a breeze. just be patient. impresse witht the results, car now has a better throttle respones, and slightly quicker. next is the 20 mm euro sports supsension. I have assembled all the suspension outside the car, just have to swap it now. Did you need to replace the MAF stock wiring harness to X51 when installing? Some people report that the standard wiring is to short. After much study I jumped in and did the X-51 airbox. Cutting the hole was a major PITA. A couple of pointers get the X-51 upgrade TSB. Take off the painted portion of the Spoiler, it is only 4 screws and very easy to do. The cutout pattern in the TSB is a little small even if you print it with no margins. I enlarged it 102% and it worked fine. Installing the Oil Fill pipe is also a major PITA. In addition to removing the ALternator which is difficult as previousily discussed I also removed the plenum which gave me more room to work. Removing and reinstalling this is easy as I had done before with the RSS Plenum. As far as Adapters I bought the following from BoostController.com and after cutting it length with an exacto blade it worked perfectly; Silicone Straight Hose, SHORT - 2 inch length #ASCSHS2-X Size - 3.25 inch ID (add 5.00) Color - Black The dealer who sold me the parts also recommended the following; Hoover Vacuum belt for the Self Propelled WindTunnel is a perfect fit (part number 38528-035). I also had to trim a little bit off the edge of the x-51 Boot to get it to fit correctly on the TB. I also had to push the clamp on in that same area with a screw driver. It was a very challenging project but I am glad I did not only for the looks but the performance gains mentioned earlier. RSS also has a modified TB which I added at the same time. They basically improved the aerodynamics by machining the entrance to more of a point for a venturi effect and machining the Shaft so air flows around it better.

Thanks that is good to know.

PEAK Lifetime coolant is one of the silicate-free coolants that is in the family of Organic Acid Technology formulas, as is the Pentosin. Regards, Maurice. Thanks for the help everyone.

As far as anybody has been able to determine, the Pentosin is the "generic" form of the Porsche coolant. As far as a definitive answer to that question, it is a closely guarded secret by Porsche, which is why or how they are able to charge more than $50 for a gallon of the stuff. The more paranoia they can induce in Porsche owners, the greater their profit on that item. One thing is for sure, though, Porsche does not manufacture antifreeze, and a company that only made antifreeze for Porsche and no one else would quickly go out of business. The general consensus is that a good silicate-free, extended life, antifreeze is adequate, and that you should not mix the different types of formulas, i.e., Organic Acid Technology (contains silicates and phosphates), Inorganic Acid Technology (silicates-free and "lifetime" or extended life), and Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (contains some silicates). Regards, Maurice. Thanks. Not sure what wet water is? I did a search and came up with nothing.

I am considering doing the 3rd Radiator install myself. Is this coolant - Pentosin Coolant/Antifreeze the same as the OE Porsche coolant? Any idea how much I will need?

I am considering doing the 3rd Radiator install myself. Is this coolant - Pentosin Coolant/Antifreeze the same as the OE Porsche coolant? Any idea how much I will need?

well i finished my install , of the x51 intake and the headers. the alternator removal was a pain, it just would not come out, but once again the forum helped me out, the bushing on the alternator gets rusted, so it wont budge, but few bang with the hammer on the bolt it loosened up the bushing an the alternator came righ out. oil filler pipe swap was a breeze. just be patient. impresse witht the results, car now has a better throttle respones, and slightly quicker. next is the 20 mm euro sports supsension. I have assembled all the suspension outside the car, just have to swap it now. How do I remove the alternator? Do I need any special tools? All tips are welcome :) Alternator wasn't taken out by my mechanic, he just took off the belt, it moved down a bit and he was able to get his hands in there to do the job. Did Suncoast supply an adapter to adapt the boot from the X-51 Box to the standard throttle body? It is my understanding the diameters are not only different internally but externally too requiring a sleeve of some type.