Peer

Just took off my rotors (literally an hour ago) and I dumped them in a metal recycling container, (I'm in California).

-- peer

I'm about to replace all my brake rotors (incl. pads) -- and have decided to do it myself (first time). I've gotten new brake sensors for the rear (where the pads are very low) but since the front pads are okay, I assume I can re-use the old sensors... no?

If you can think of anything I should know/look for before I roll up my sleeves, pray tell.

-- peer

Recently I got my onboard computer activated (thanks to Mr. Tool Pants). However, since I got no stem switch for it, I initially planned to add a dip-switch, using Pelican Parts DIY hack. But since I'm only really interested in one function -- the remaining gas miles -- I'm wondering if it's perhaps possible to switch thru the functions using the PST2 tool (or whatever it's called). As of now, it's parked at the outside temperature, a function that I'm not interested in. When it was activated, I tried to get it set right away to the gas miles entry, but somehow ran out of time.

Any help appreciated,

-- peer

Okay, let me be the first to say this: thank you Henry and Jeff (aka Tool Pants) for the Boxster "work on cars" day. Most brilliant -- even if I got there late (had to drop off my parents at the airport), Jeff willingly activated my computer as Henry served me cooled micro-brew throughout the day. Certainly a day to remember.

-- peer

John V wrote:

> Can you even see that screen while driving?

Yes, very much so. Of course, it would be even better if it was high up at the windscreen, but then I had to remove it (and its mounting) whenever I parked. To me it's a compromise.

-- peer

Nick...

..thank you very much -- it saved my day. That connector is exactly what I used, (its second hole is the hot, and the fourth one is ground). Here's how my GPS ended up after an assault with the Dremel tool on the shelf-department.

-- peer

This is from another Boxster forum:

> My carpet is black so I used common auto grade carpet to cover the computer

> module and relocated the footwell lights. If done with care, very few people will

> ever notice that it's DIY vs the delete kit. I did have to order the plastic trim

> piece to cover the void in front of the shift boot. I spent $45 versus $145 and

> gained some much needed knee room.

This is exactly what I was looking for -- a DIY thingee. Do anyone here happen to have the part number for this plastic trim piece?

-- peer

I'm sorry to be so ignorant, but what is this console "delete kit"??

Is this something you spend poop lot of money on, or is it a simple DIY?

I just wanna get rid of that stack of crap below my radio, and hopefully without purchasing some silly "kit".

Btw, mine is a Box '98.

-- peer

What/where would be the easiest way to pull a 12v line to the center top of the dash? Don't like the big cigarette lighter thingee for my GPS.

-- peer

Highlander wrote:

> I wasn't aware there was any calibration that could be done.

> My speedometer consistently reads ~3mph high.

Yea, I would also like to know if it's possible to calibrate the speedometer. According to three different GPS', my speedo reads 4 mph too much at 50 mph, and 6 mph at 100.

-- peer

I'm getting a TomTom 510 GPS (4.2 x 3.1 x 2.5) and wonder if there's any snazzy place that I could mount it -- semi-permanent. Suggestions appreciated.

-- peer

The Rascal Russ wrote:

> Yes, easy, simply conect the two wire going to the LED in

> the new alarm to the two wires going to the in dash LED,

> splice extra lengths if needed. Very simple mod

Well, I kind of suspected that, but my question was more focused around the "where would be the easiest place to tap into it" -- as in, where those lines (wires) to the built-in LED were coming from. Obviously there must be a point closer to my current "hidden" LED that I could tap into, (instead of re-routing new wires all the way up to the central dash).

-- peer

I got an after-market alarm (AutoPage) which I'm quite happy with -- my only gripe, however, is that its flashing LED light is located next to the far left air-went, and hence, not very visible. So I wonder if it's possible to hook it up to the built-in dash alarm LED, and if so, where would be the easiest place to tap into it?

As always, any help and/or pointers appreciated.

-- peer

Chris in NH wrote:

> my 97 does the same thing. i open up the front trunk and the light

> does not go on for about 3 minutes, after i've fumbled around in

> the dark and found what i was looking for.

I know that feeling too well. Besides, the problem with me is that I only get reminded of this whenever I'm away from home and when it's dark outside... but then tend to forget about it when I finally have time to fix it ;^)

-- peer

I have an intermittent problem with my front trunk-light -- sometimes it works, but more often not. Before spending time to figure it out, I'd appreciate any suggestions.

-- peer

Danzel wrote:

> this K&N air filter uses top-of-the-line air filtering technology

> which results to a 4 to 6 sheets of high flow cotton gauze that

> will be the last filter your vehicle will ever need.

Obviously you haven't followed much anything that has been said in the previous posts, (and it doesn't surprise me too much seeing that this is your very first post on this forum).

-- peer

John V wrote:

> Peer, don't do it. You won't see any horsepower increase from installing a K&N

> on the Boxster, and they don't filter nearly as well as the OEMpaper filter.

> You're wasting money to wear your engine out faster. False economy. [...]

> Bear in mind that Porsche's MAF sensors are VERY sensitive to contamination,

> even with the stock filter in place! The slight amount of oil that is passed

> by a K&N is easily enough to foul it up. Since there is no performance gain,

> to me it is not worth the risk.

Okay, that's convincing enough -- no more K&N for me. Thank you guys.

-- peer

CJ Boxster wrote:

> You can clean the oils out of the K&N filter to avoid that

> problem BUT you do run the risk of more dust flying past

> the filter, I've done it and havent had an issue with it...

> also desnorkeled and the car sounds awesome.

Correct me if I'm wrong -- I thought the K&N filter came un-oiled, but was included with a small tube of oil so you could oil it yourself if so desired.

At least so did the one I got for my Ducati:

http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~peer/Duc/duc-jetting.html

..and the same for my Eunos:

http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~peer/roadster-intake.html

Hence, if no one can/will talk me out of this, I'm about to install a K&N also in my Boxster.

-- peer

CJ Boxster wrote:

> You can clean the oils out of the K&N filter to avoid that

> problem BUT you do run the risk of more dust flying past

> the filter, I've done it and havent had an issue with it...

> also desnorkeled and the car sounds awesome.

Correct me if I'm wrong, I thought the K&N filter came un-oiled, but includes a small tube of oil so you could oil it yourself if you so desire. At least so did the one I got for my Ducati:

http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~peer/Duc/duc-jetting.html

..and the same for my Eunos:

http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~peer/roadster-intake.html

-- peer

Paul Fraser wrote:

> UK cars have this fitted in the area to the side of the battery.

> I'll see if I can get a photograph for you.

Thank you, Paul -- I just relocated the siren to this very spot, so no need to get pix of it.

-- peer

What would be the best location for an alarm siren? Currently I have mine mounted inside that space next right to the gas-pedal (don't know what it's called) and it's way too muffled. Any help appreciated.

-- peer

911-996 wrote:

> But ultimately if you want engine noise, remove the sound deadening from the rear parcle shelf

Where & what is this? Any pointers appreciated.

-- peer

Djomlas wrote:

> have a image [...]

> but no shop around my are can handle smaller tubes [...]

> i was also thining fo making a custom one with [...]

Is this English..?

-- peer

John V wrote:

> The M030 bars are probably a good upgrade for a street car.

If I'd like to increase some over-steer, would I go for a front M030 or a rear?

-- peer

Insite wrote:

> i like the M030 bars; they're made by porsche and are fairly cheap.

Just called Sunset Imports about those, but they couldn't even tell me what size those were, much less what size the stock ones are on a '98. So do you happen to know how much thicker the front M030 are compared to the stock, and are they adjustable?

-- peer