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nfesas
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Is it possible to add rear seats or baby seat belts to the GT3?
nfesas replied to loday22's topic in 997 GT3, GT3 RS
Congrats on the baby! I was visiting my Porsche dealer about 18m ago or so, and they were doing just that to a 996 GT3. They had to weld in some of the missing bits, e.g. seat belt anchors and the like. The job was labor intensive. I read something somewhere that the 997 GT3 has the same items removed to save weight. In short, I expect the answer is yes given enough time and money :) Good luck with your project. Nestor -
Found this link to a Michelin "Care and Feeding" PDF for the sport cups. Seems to have some useful info. Nestor http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/tec...e.jsp?techid=62
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Thanks. Nestor
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I know one individual that routinely tracks his GT3 RS. I was chatting with him at Texas World Speedway a couple of weeks ago and he mentioned that the Pirellis, in his opinion, were far superior to the Michelins. He drives his RS to the track. He seems to cut respectable times - or so I hear :) Thus, it seems like the Pirellis have at least one enthusiastic and knowledgeable supporter. Don't know/think this helps much, but at least someone out there thinks you have the superior tire. Nestor
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Don't know all the details, so forgive me if I'm off. It seems to me that the tire pressures are a function of ambient air temperature (and by extension, road/track surface temperature), humidity (?) and how much work the tire is performing. I would agree that on a cold surface/day you might in fact start with a higher pressure. I live in Texas where daytime highs can easily creep into the high 90s / low 100s. I've been experiencing tire pressure increases of as much as 10lbs in the rear and about 7 or 8 in the front. The shoulder wear indicators (little arrows on the shoulder of my MSCs) seem to indicate appropriate wear when I have about 44lbs hot in the rear and about 37 hot in the fronts. These numbers work on days with temps in the mid 90s and humidity up around 80% or so. Also, these are for Texas World Speedway which is a 2.9 mile, 15 turn, high speed track (wide track, plenty of run-off, etc). I use a 2006 Boxster S, so I understand that your application will be different. I think the bottom line is that the tire pressure will be dictated by a number of factors that will change with track and weather conditions. For track use, it's probably a good idea to keep a log of the various variables just to get a sense for what works best for your driving style and car. Regards, Nestor
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I'm running 18s because they're light and I have a better selection of tires than I do with the 19s. I don't use any timing gear at the moment. I simply run as hard as I know how and then compare against my buddies - did they point me by or did I point them by? :) I can infer my "times" from theirs. I like the traqmate - it's on my wishlist. Nes
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I'm running 18s because they're light and I have a better selection of tires than I do with the 19s. I don't use any timing gear at the moment. I simply run as hard as I know how and then compare against my buddies - did they point me by or did I point them by? :) I can infer my "times" from theirs. I like the traqmate - it's on my wishlist. Nes
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The track width didn't make a difference I could feel. My suspicion is that since I changed to stickier tires at the same time, any difference due to track width would be lost in the overwhelming difference the tires made. The car seemed to retain its neutral handling. Previously I was running Michelin Pilot PS/2s. They seemed to get a little "greasy" after a good session - one where I made fewer mistakes and was able to keep my speed up :-) The Sport Cups are pretty amazing. Lots of grip. Next time out I'll have Pagid Black (RS14) brake pads and ATE Super Blue brake fluid. Those two items should provide another noticable step forward. Nes
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Here's the car entering the track. In the rear, I'm running Michelin Pilot Sport Cups in 285/30-18 on 18x10 Enkei wheels. The fronts are 235/40-18 on 18x8.5. The rear offset is 60 w/o the spacers. The front is 50. Nes
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Here's a picture of the car on a high speed right hander at Texas World Speedway. You can see that the outside tires are relatively deep into the well. No rubbing at the track or on the street. Nes
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When I lowered my car, I ended up with more negative camber than the factory specs. I didn't know the spacers would work. I figured they probably would since many others have done the same thing and I had more negative camber than the factory setup. My rear camber is currently set at -2 deg. This causes the tops of the wheels to tilt in towards the center of the car. I don't have any rubbing with either my factory wheels, shown in the pictures above or my 18" tack wheels. I'll post a picture or two of the track setup so you see what I mean. YMMV as each car is unique given the manufacturing tolerances. Also note that as the rear suspension works through its radius, e.g. on bump, the camber will go more negative than the static setting. So in essence, you'll have a little more room to play with as the wheel goes deeper into the wheel well - to an extent. Nes
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This is turning out to be more of a problem than I initially envisioned. I'll search out the other thread. The BK roll bar extension apparently doesn't work for the 987. Let's do keep in touch. Nestor
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Here are a couple more pics - this time in daylight. Nestor
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Thanks for the advice Gustavo. Both look like good choices. Hadn't thought about the Pole Position. Might be just what I need for track days. My biggest concern right now is safety as my helmet sticks about an inch above the rollbar. Nestor
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Thanks, Nestor! So you only did the rears and it fits just fine? I am planning on going to max. negative camber with stock suspension. Do you have a picture of how it looks? I am not sure about the offset of the 19"s. Did they come with longer bolts? I assume you can not use the Porsche supplied wheel-lock any more? I bought some track wheels. The spacers came with the rear wheels and were required to clear the rear strut. I installed them for use on the track and left them on for use on the street. They work just fine in both cases. Cosmetically, I think the fronts look fine without a spacer, but that's just me. Longer bolts were part of the deal and you cannot use the stock wheel locks at all. I've attached a quick pic I took to give you an idea of what to expect. The offset of the 19's is 46 in the rear and 57 in the front if I have that right. Nestor
