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About lbp

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    951 (track only)
    Audi RS6
    Cayenne S
  • Future cars
  • Former cars
    55 Chev 283>301; 65 Vette Coupe SB; '68 Z28; Spitfire(2); Renault Alpine A310 V6; Audi S4 BT
  1. Hi all, I've fitted a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports to my 997.1 GT3 RS and am looking for some opinions as to cold/hot pressure baselines for the track. Track is Pocono SE. Any feedback greatly appreciated.
  2. I'm trying to replace the Fiberglass rocker panels on this 944 with the same thing. They are now quite beat up & need replacing. I thought they came from GT Racing but Joel says no. The photo show a black air dam strip at the bottom which was added to the rocker & is not part of the original setup. Anyone know where these came from? Thanks in advance for any reply!
  3. I have a perplexing rear axle bearing installation problem and thought some 944 pros might know the answer or be able to point me to the right direction. I recently got my 89 944T sideways in an event and when the contact patches hit a seam in the track pavement a rear bearing was damaged. There was no other damage to the car other than the tire needed to be re-seated onto the rim (it did not knock clear off). So, while the off ruined an otherwise great day, it was not catastrophic to the car. To remove/replace the damaged rear axle bearing, I purchased the Sir B90-P02 tool set which seems to work fine Here is my problem: I have been able to extract the stub & remove the bearing remnant from it. I also removed the bad bearing from the trailing arm with no issues. I then installed a new bearing into the arm with the indicated SIR disk #12 (watching & measuring installation alignment closely) and the bearing appeared to install correctly. I then re-installed the stub with the indicated SIR disk #14 and the stub appeared to install correctly. Now re-assembled, the stub wobbles 3/8 inches or so, just the same as when the broken bearing was in the trailing arm! I have confirmed that the bearing saddle (trailing arm) is not damaged or loose. Thinking I did something wrong, I took it all apart & re-did the job with a second new bearing. This time, before re-inserting the stub, I examined the bearing for play/damage, and sure enough, the second new bearing also had significant side to side play. Thus, it appears that I am doing something very wrong which is damaging the new bearing at the time of its installation to the trailing arm. I have been careful to follow the Sir Tool instructions, and have also cross-referenced their instructions with other instructions found on-line, but I must be doing something incorrectly. Might anyone here have any idea/experience with what could be causing the described bearing installation failure? Has anyone heard of or seen this 944 rear axle bearing installation failure? Many thanks in advance for any information.
  4. One "last" comment. I am also an 03 Audi RS6 original owner. As some may know, the RS6 RS6 Wiki has been plagued with problems associated with the DRC (Dynamic Ride Control) suspension. Without going into details, the DRC design as delivered is flawed and owners are not happy with the inevitable problems. One RS6 owner who happens to be an attorney got politely pissed off enough (see here: Robert Iacovelli, Esq.) to develop support through audiworld.com for a potential class action suit against Audi. This is the result: DRC Service Action ...It took Audi 5 years to respond to the issue, but only under threat of legal action.
  5. ...there are literally dozens of RMS links on Google. See one here: Rennteam
  6. I have this RMS issue and have been told by dealer and non-dealer sources that this condition can result from the crankcase losing vacuum. Apparently this RMS relies on crankcase vacuum to create its seal against the shaft? Rather than tear the engine down to fix (and screw up 10 other things while the dealer experiments), I have opted to leave it alone and watch (for now). I also now drive the car at least once during the week in an attempt to avoid vacuum dissipation. Another condition was oil leakage along the crankcase halves. I again deferred tearing the entire thing down and opted for a treatment of sealant that was applied after cleaning with solvent (capillary action under heat to get the area cleansed and then again to get the sealant in). The crankcase seam no longer leaks (so far) and I am happy that the engine was not torn apart for this. You'd think after building these things for a while Porsche could get it right without hocus-pocus "consulting" back to the "factory engineers." - And I do not mean to blame the dealer here. My engine also smokes like crazy on start up, but again, prevailing wisdom is that this is normal. At this time (6k mileage) the engine does not use any oil. Also, the suspension/alignment settings were so bad when I picked up the car that it was dangerous to drive (no joke). - Some may argue that this is the dealer's responsibility, ...too many variables for the factory to know how we will drive these cars, shipping concerns, etc., etc. ...BS- it seems that Porsche is the only one who ***doesn't*** know how to set these cars up with a reasonable baseline alignment/bar. Oh, and the rear wing had 6 degrees of positive lift in it. - Why can bankrupt GM build a bullet-proof Z06 at half the price, (and the very fine ZR1), while Porsche by comparison seems to survive (and profit handsomely) on folk-lore technology?? I don't buy the David & Goliath argument. - Not at the prices Porsche charges. By the way, has anyone tried calling the customer service line at Porsche? They have a gushing 20-something girl answering the phone who is nice as pie when she wants to be, and absolutely in-effective in every way at resolving or delegating the simplest issue. Indeed, it was my experience that she enjoyed avoiding ownership for the most rudimentary. I like the car, but Porsche as a company is full of s**t.
  7. Yes, I agree with all of the comments, TPM is a half-a$$ed solution. The only saving grace may be when it alerts as to a deflating tire, possibly saving from a rollover scenario when otherwise distracted. The tire gauge info below is not suggested as an enhancement to TPM,but as a good gauge solution if you want accurate (and equal f-f/r-r) tire pressures. ...excellent gauge: PsiClops air gauge PS - this is the right one to get: Psiclops "Extreme" Dead nuts on every time. I have a tank of nitrogen/hose reel in the garage at home & keep all our vehicles up to pressure with this system. The tank costs about $100/year leased from AirGas. As delivered the tank has 2000 lbs. of pressure, so a tank regulator is also a requirement (about $100) to keep delivery rates to the hose (which is usually rated at 250 or 300lbs.) within hose pressure limits. As such, if you use this setup or if you have a high pressure air compressor/tank and you do not have a regulator on it, get one of these with the Psiclops gauge: Psiclops Hands Free Adapter (+$24.95) p/n: PSIHFA02 Otherwise you may damage the gauge if the pressure delivered to the gauge exceeds the gauge rating of 60lbs.
  8. I have constantly noticed a 3-5 lbp difference between what the TPM reports, as compared with multiple tires gauges, all of which are with 1 lbp of each other. Porsche tells me there is no way to calibrate TPM, nor is it to be considered absolutely accurate, rather it is only an "indication" of actual pressure. It's a bit disconcerting when the difference drops into the warning range on the TPM, even though my tire pressure gauges say all is OK. Any comments?
  9. Mine rattles identically to what you have described, although that is not to say it should be considered "normal," my serviceing dealer says it is.
  10. I now have had a GT3RS since July 07. Great car, but... if you will not be tracking it, might the turbo might be a better choice? The GT3 seems to be a phenominal car with a single mission, which does not include Sunday traffic, potholes, etc. That is to say on a wide open road you'll be in heaven going through the gears (but **well** beyond legal limits for it to feel right). Anywhere else you'll be wondering what all that technology is about while idling (puttering?) around at legal speeds. - Gearing/power on the GT3 are truly optimized for sporting intentions... I have not driven a turbo, but it is my understanding that it is more of a road car, so someone else should comment about that. Perhaps a question of focus, which might be best answered by your own intentions. Can you not get a TT drive at the dealer & find a buddy with a GT3 ? Best of luck. PS - Did I forget to mention the nose scrapes into nearly every restaurant I've taken my wife?
  11. Cannot order a US car with Sunroof Delete!!! Means no factory roll bar either....dumb cement heads screw it up again, just like the RS which really is a BS deal, Oh I forgot....you get the single mass flywheel and pretty wheels! The factory Roll bar can be ordered from Farnbacher Loles in Connecticut.
  12. Does anyone have any experience with the FabSpeed "997 GT3/GT3RS High Performance Air Intake System with BMC Air Filter $695?" Here is the link: FabSpeed Air Box kit 14HP seems like a huge gain for such a simple modification..
  13. - Many thanks for your reply! I've contacted Dave M. & IFC.
  14. A low-tech but effective method I heard from a respected race shop mechanic is to get some furnace filter and cut to match contour of the front face side of elements to be protected, i.e., radiator surface. I am told this does not impede air flow yet will protect the radiators. I'll try this in the Spring, but will likely also get the Carnewale grills.
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