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GreigM

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Everything posted by GreigM

  1. Thanks Loren, I'll give that a try today.
  2. Can anyone tell me how/if the exhaust tips on my Mk1 are removeable? I would like to take them off to clean them up better, but can't see any obvious way to remove them. With the boxster it was simple 1 bolt, but this looks different.
  3. Loren, I bled the brakes, however someone on another forum questioned performing this yourself as they claim: Is this correct?
  4. I suppose in theory oil starvation is possible, and running semi-race tyres will only bring you closer to this theoretical problem - but in saying that I know of a 996 C2 which has been run on slicks with no adverse effects (yet) - but it may be something to be aware of. As for tyres - The MPSC will give the ultimate grip, but only within a fairly narrow temperature band - they are hard to heat up especially on a cold day. They also offer absolutely no wet weather performance at all - if you are driving to/from the track be 100% sure it will not rain otherwise you will have an accident. They are also reputed to wear very quickly - some of the GT3 guys here in the UK are getting as little as 2 track days out of a set. The Corsas are seen as a better compromise - almost as much grip as the MPSC (some people say just as much), better wet-weather performance (you can drive home in the rain, just take it easy) and a longer life. Also usually cheaper. You might also want to consider Dunlop Super Sort Race (SSR) - a great compromise all round - much,much better than street tyres and some would say almost as good grip as the MPSC or Corsas, a lot longer life, almost as good as a street tyre in the wet and very cheap. A lot of people are running these tyres all the time - track, street, wet.
  5. I'm going to bleed my brakes and clutch and just wondered if the procedure is exactly the same for the GT3 (and specifically the Mk1) as Loren's instructions? Is the clutch bleed valve in the same location as with a normal 996?
  6. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the Mk1 brakes - you just need to use the appropriate pads/fluid and use the correct braking technique. If you are using stock pads and fluid you should be impressed that the brakes functioned for as long as they did - a testament to how good the brakes are. As mentioned above, the first step would be to get track-focused pads and fluid, this alone will make a significant difference to fade-resistance. For pads I would recommend either Pagid (orange or yellow) or Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads. Then get your brake system filled with Castrol SRF fluid (double the price of the competitors and very much worth it). These 2 steps alone would probably remove the fade you are experiencing. The reports in the early days of the Mk1 brakes being poor were caused by a lot of inexperienced drivers who were braking incorrectly - these same people have since learnt and moved on, and admit that it was problems with the driving and not the brakes. Here in the UK there are many Mk1s still running the original brakes and able to keep up with the Mk2s and RSs all day long - because the drivers are braking correctly. The problem originated from people braking early and with moderate force - so the brakes are applied for a lot longer, which actually gets them very hot. Then there is also less time between braking for them to cool. What they needed to do was have faith in the brakes and brake late and hard - this means the brakes are applied for a shorter period and they actually generate less heat - it will also improve your lap times. So get your pads, fluid and technique fixed first, and only then if you still feel they are fading, spend the money on changing to Mk2 calipers, discs and pads.
  7. Try the link again - you should be able to see the pics now.
  8. If the stretch is only 2km you won't get anywhere close to top speed. Here in the UK we have an airfield test-ground with a 2-mile runway, which if you are good you can join the start of the 2miles at around 70mph. By the time it comes to brake close to the end of the 2mph the car will still have more to come - I think you would need 3 or 4 miles to get a real top speed reading from the car. I have a (slightly insane) friend locally with a GT3 RS who has seen 200mph reading on his speedometer whilst on the autobahn in germany - and he said the car still had more to give. How accurate the speedometer is at this speed though is anyone's guess.
  9. Hi Rami, I have a Mk1 - there are no real common problems and generally the engine is very reliable. The warranty will not cover 100% of your troubles, but if your engine goes bang it should take care of it.
  10. Porsche are correct - PCM2 is only compatible with cars fitted with the MOST fibre-optic bus system, which means MY03 onwards only.
  11. I noticed the other day that the brake pedal makes a distinct "creaking" noise when pushed hard. This happens both when the engine is running or not. Are there any parts of the linkeage/mechanism I should have the dealer check?
  12. Tim, my current understanding is that they will not fit as you would have to widen the wheel arch to get them in there - but if you find out differently, please let us know.
  13. Thanks for all the info guys, the parts arrived today, and as the car is at the dealers to get a coolant leak looked at then they are going to fit it free of charge - saves me getting dirty :D
  14. Thanks Loren, looks easy enough to try it myself - will take some pics and post them if all is successful.
  15. Thanks Loren, I have the part numbers (as in my original post) - your diagram looks like the one from the PET - which unfortunately doesn't show the locations of all the nuts and clamps, just an illustrative sample. And sorry, yes its a 2000 Mk1 GT3.
  16. Hi All, I was looking under the car at the weekend and found that the front undertray was hanging on with just 1 plastic nut - so I removed this nut and the undertray fell to the floor - it's in a pretty bad state, so have ordered a new one (part # 996.504.527.02) as well as the 6 clamps (999.507.657.09) and approx 10 plastic nuts (999.049.022.40). Does anyone have photos/pictures or a description of where all the nuts/clamps are attached, so I make sure I re-attach the part correctly? Thanks for any info you can give.
  17. Just a note to say I got the spoiler replaced and used the push-in fittings (more like hammer in). If anyone is interested I put pics of the process on my site here: http://www.porschaforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3055
  18. Hi All, just picked up my Mk1 last week and the lower spolier was missing, so will be replacing it - anyone know if I can use the new push-type connectors on a Mk1? My theory would be that these may come off easier than the fixed ones - and I'd rather the whole thing came off cleanly than ripped off part of the front bumper along with it. Thanks..
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