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openwater

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Everything posted by openwater

  1. openwater
    Went to change CDs the other day in my CDR-220 and encountered a loading problem. The CD that was inside the unit ejected OK, but I was unable to insert another disc. The edge of the next disk would only go into the slot about 3/4 of an inch. After examining the ejected disk I noticed a thin black line running across the 'top' side. I pulled out my flashlight and could see a small piece of black plastic hanging down from above, inside the CD slot. It appears to be 'hinged', in that I can pull it forward with a paper clip and it 'swings up' and out of the way. Unfortunately, as we all know, gravity 'sucks' and it falls back down obstructing the disc. Any ideas? Thanks! ('99-2.5L-57k)
  2. openwater
    I think everyone understands the danger in 'under filling'... What's the danger in 'over filling' on a Boxster?
  3. openwater
    I'm getting a 1128 and 1130 on my '99 w/ 56k miles... What is 'Area 2'? Am I looking at different conditions than the 'Area 1' fault noted above? Should I do the 'Carb Spray' test? If so, where do I spray it? If the oil filler system has a leak will the RPMs jump when the spray is in proximity to that type of leak also? Thanks!
  4. openwater
    My 1st Boxster was a '97 and the fan came on even after removing the key. I was in Vegas at the time... it is possible the dealer reprogrammed the DME to cope with the warm climate? My '99's fan never has come on after removing the key (San Diego).
  5. openwater
    I found the carpet removal to be pretty easy. I worked the plastic tabs with my finger to find the 'sweat spot' that makes removal easier. A quarter turn either way will do the trick. After removing all the tabs I started at the right end of the trunk but in retrospect starting at the left will make it easier to work the carpet from under the edge of the reservoir. Don't forget to remove the trunk light cover... I almost pulled my wires on accident. In my '99 there is a 3-piece styrofoam insert that sits under the carpet. Two-sided tape holds them together and I found it necessary to pull the carpet from the styrofoam to remove it. Other may have a different experience. The styrofoam is molded and sits in place without connectors. When I reinstalled the carpet I just worked in reverse order, reapplying new tape to hold the carpet down. Pretty easy. As for the leak... Your diagnosis seems right on. Have you noticed a coolant loss through the check window? I would think 4oz each time would drop your level by about an eighth of an inch or so... Also, on hot days you may get a whiff of hot coolant smell right when you open the trunk and after driving. Thats the coolant on the trunk floor...
  6. openwater
    Steam is not normal in a fully closed system, I think you'll find the cap is your problem... The overflow in the center of the 'cluster' empties out at the right rear wheel, just as you experienced on the road. As a test, pour a quart or so of water directly into the overflow and watch where it comes out... The fact that your temp returned to nearly normal is not surprising, when my tank failed I could keep it below 200 by going as slow as 20 MPH on flat ground. As for the power washing, I doubt you would have enough direct access to the more vulnerable rubber tubing behind the firewall to do any damage... Hope this helps.
  7. openwater
    Had my '99 2.5 in the auto body shop last week for some door ding repairs. The first two days I had it back the 'automatic up & down' feature would not work on the passenger side window, driver's side is OK. Operating the rocker switch manually worked fine. Opening and closing the windows via the door key worked also. As did the 1/4 inch window drop when opening the door from the outside. Fast forward to day 3 and everything was back to normal. I'm going to let the shop know on Tuesday, just in case. I assume they removed the interior door panel during the repair. The battery had also been disconnected... Any ideas? Haven't had any window issues prior to this.. Thanks
  8. openwater
    Looks like you lucked out, I'm jealous. ;) FYI... for anyone who keeps coolant laying around the garage, the stuff is deadly when ingested in modest amounts and animals (especially dogs) love the taste. Their low body weight means just a little does significant liver damage and usually results in death. Keep Fido safe, treat the stuff with care...
  9. openwater
    One other thing to check... If the cap failed there should be some residue under the black plastic insert that covers the cooling system bleeder valve. Remove the coolant and oil filler caps, pull it up and see if there's any evidence. My '99 had some residue in the opening of the overflow outlet which is in the middle of the tank, below the cover... Also, not sure how far below the 'Min' mark requires the bleeding of the system. If you need to do so this link has instructions. http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech9-03-2003.htm I had to bleed my system twice to get a stable reading. Steve
  10. openwater
    From my experience, the fact you haven't noticed coolant on your garage floor isn't surprising. When the tank fails, the coolant loss is immediate and dramatic. By the time I got my '99 home (less than 5 miles) there was barely a trickle coming from the bottom of the car. This is what I did and it seemed to help pinpoint the problem.. - Remove your engine cover - Remove all carpet (and the black styrofoam liner underneath) from the trunk. - Refill your tank to spec with the coolant and water @ 50/50 - Install the new (.01) cap. You'll want it anyway - Start you car and park it on a level surface - Bring the car to temperature - Run it for at least 20 minutes to build pressure Look for either; coolant dripping from the bottom side of the tank, or escaping from a compromised hose in the engine compartment. When coolant gets on the trunk floor it drains down through a small hole and ends up dripping off the right rear jacking point. If the leak had been small for some time, you may not have noticed a few drips in front of the tire and the styrofoam insert prevents it from staining the carpet. Coolant usually takes some time to evaporate, but if temperatures have been as high as you say, and your don't spend much time on the passenger side, you probably wouldn't have noticed. When the coolant dried next to my car, there was almost no residue. Tank replacement is difficult, not impossible. The local shops in San Diego wanted around $750, I did my own for about a third of that.
  11. openwater
    On my old tank there was a small failure along the seam between the black 'top half' and the translucent 'bottom half', the epoxy must have failed under the pressure and heat. The other areas were mid-tank, on the backside, unviewable from the trunk space without removal... The three weakened areas were dark brown, almost black, with noticeable spider vein cracks running throughout. The 1st and 2nd were at the junction of two of the 'lobes' of the tank you see on the outboard side. I assume the junctions we're not made thick enough to stand the pressure and heat either. The last defect (leaking) looked the same, but was in the middle of a flat area of the plastic... a little scary. The tank I put in (Apr '05) was the 9th version (.09) porsche has introduced. Nine tanks in 7 years!
  12. openwater
    Good job! Keep a close eye on it anyway, there may be other weak spots... After removing my tank I found a smaller 2nd leak, and 3 more in the process.
  13. openwater
    Has anyone had luck removing old, hard water deposits from windows? Tried a few window cleaning products then CLR on a clean rag with no luck... Thanks
  14. openwater
    Porsche, Volkswagen Recall SUVs - AP Newswire Tuesday, May 25, 2004 BERLIN — Porsche is recalling more than 40,000 Cayenne sport utility vehicles worldwide and rival Volkswagen recalled some 60,000 of its Touareg SUVs to check for potential faults in rear seat belts. The German automakers jointly developed the Cayenne and Touareg models, and the vehicles share some parts. The recall is to check for bolts anchoring the seat belts to the frame that were improperly welded and could come loose. Porsche said Tuesday it became of the problem through quality tests, but that no incidents had been reported. About 1,000 of the faulty parts were installed in the Cayenne and Touareg vehicles, Volkswagen spokesman Alexander Skibbe said Tuesday. Porsche said the seat belts in the driver and front passenger seats are not affected by the fault. Both companies said the fault lies with the supplier, which they refused to identify. Porsche said its recall affects Cayenne, Cayenne S and Cayenne Turbo models manufactured between Oct. 1, 2002 and Dec. 17, 2003 — a total of 40,848 vehicles. Brisk sales of the Cayenne have boosted Porsche's results over recent quarters. Skibbe said the worldwide Volkswagen recall affected all Touareg models made in the same period.
  15. openwater
    Also, since you're in the area you may want to talk to the people at San Diego Plastics (http://www.sdplastics.com/). Ask them about Lexan XL, its rated to 257F, has greater resistance to chemicals and is a better insulator... Steve
  16. openwater
    Yes, I'm looking at 6 to 7mm all the way around. Next step is to check continuity of the sensor connector and wires... Brake Wear light is still intermittent. Steve
  17. openwater
    Scott, This link may be of help also... http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/oa/climate/online/ccd/maxtemp.html http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/oa/climate/online/ccd/mintemp.html Tons of climate data for most major cities over the last 30 years. May want to figure abient temperature in your calculations. Steve
  18. openwater
    Took a look at the brakes today while replacing the spark plugs... Although I continue to get an off and on (mostly on) brake wear light, the pad thickness looks OK all around. Compared to Tool Pants picture above I have about 2x as much pad left (textar). The 'pad' side is definitely thicker than the 'base' side. Is there a standard measured thickness when pads must be changed? I don't do a lot of heavy braking... Thanks!
  19. openwater
    Started looking for the cause of my idle fluctuation and CE light. Found that I had not replaced the oil filler cap when I topped off.. :censored: Replaced the cap and the idle came in line later that day. CE is still on so continued looking for the cause. Reviewed my service records and realized that the spark plugs hadn't been changed at 30k. Replaced them this morning (at 54k) with the 2-prong Bosch plugs. What a difference! Dramatic improvement on steadiness of idle, and performance while decelerating (and accelerating). Not too difficult a job, thanks to informative posts on the Forum... One question on the plug change... just to the left and above of cylinder #4's (more rear, right) coil is some sort of sensor that screws (or snaps) into the head? Mine is very wet with oil; what is it? Thanks
  20. openwater
    Replaced the air filter about a month ago. Replaced the coolant tank two weeks ago. Replaced the Parking Brake sensor last week...
  21. openwater
    '99 2.5L w/ 54k miles... Check engine light came on yesterday. Today idle started elevating to 1000rpm from the usual 800rpm. Occasionally dropped to 825 or so then immediately went back up to 1000. I'll put it on a OBD this weekend, but any guesses?
  22. openwater
    Thanks for the input guys... Installed the new Parking Brake switch (996.613.112.01=$5.64) this morning. Used the 'Remove Handbrake' section (under Maintenance) from www.986faq.com to remove center console. Directions worked like a charm, a couple of notes though... 1) When removing the console make sure you disconnect the alarm wires to the storage compartment. It's a push-on type connector. 2) There is one 20 Torx screw that is shorter and a different thread type than the others. If your going fast you may not know where it came from when reinstalling. It's from the back floor of the storage compartment. 3) The Torx screws underneath the ash tray continue to spin even when tight. The fitting is similar to a hollow wall anchor in that the 'wing' spread on the far side securing the piece in place. 4) I did not have to remove the shifter. After pulling up the boot I just translated it so the 'tongue' pointed to the ceiling, the console cleared easily. Thanks again for all the help, I'll take a look at the brakes on Sunday.
  23. openwater
    Pumping the handle didn't work this morning so I'll pick up a new sensor and replace. I'm sure there's instructions buried somewhere in here. Should I pull the wheels to see if it is time for new pads (and sensors)? Or should I right off the one time illumination to a faulty sensor and wait until I get a steady light? Thanks!
  24. openwater
    Changed out my '99s coolant tank over the weekend. On my 1st test drive the Brake Wear light comes on. Stayed on for about 5 minutes and haven't seen it since. When the coolant tank failed there was quite a bit of coolant that emitted into the trunk area and drained out around the rear right wheel... Does anyone know how the break wear sensors work? Is it based on caliper travel or ability to 'grab'? Could coolant on the right rear rotor have caused the light to come on temporarily until the residue burned off? Have braked hard trying to duplicate the sensor reading to no avail... Also, just this afternoon when stopped at a long light I attempted to open my top. Nothing. I looked down to see that the Emergency Brake light would not come on. I reset the brake a number of times with no luck. The brake is working, I tested it on a hill. The light is illuminated on start-up so the bulb's OK. Any thoughts?
  25. openwater
    Cleaned filler cap area, refilled to capacity and brought to temperature with bleeder valve cover off. No sign of leaks around the cap or bleeder. The puddle on the ground says I still have a problem... Looks like a tank change is in my near future.
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