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openwater

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About openwater

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.justadog.org
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Pit Bull rescue
    Restaurants
    Hotels
    Aviation (Private Pilot)

Profile Fields

  • From
    San Diego
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    99 Boxster
    64 Corvette Roadster
    81 Mercedes 300TD-T (Veggie)
    82 Mercedes 300TD-T (Soon to be Veggie)
    67 Mercedes 230 Heckflosse
  1. Yep.... part 996 107 183 03. Oil level dipstick guide tube.
  2. This Boxster lives outside and it's raining... so I grabbed this pic from the internet. Not a great angle, I can get a shot of mine tomorrow. It's hard plastic tubing with a cable? inside. It starts somewhere near where the coolant reservoir comes through the trunk. I'm thinking oil dipstick. Hmmm. Easy enough to test in the morning. FYI - after driving about 20 miles tonight the idle settled down and is as steady as ever at 780 rpms. Thanks again.
  3. It took a week to get the gasket in stock but I finally tackled the throttle body and idle control valve today. As advised, the cleaning did the trick! A couple of notes for those who follow... I thought that I needed to remove the hard plastic air intake body from the engine compartment to get access. It only needs to be loosened and the engine mounts removed. A magnetic wand is a must to make sure you catch the lower right throttle body bolt when reassembling. Its blind, and in a tight spot. It's easier to remove the left side engine mount at the engine side than the throttle body side.
  4. 1999 Boxster Base - 89,500 miles. This car is driven about 4,000 miles/year in a temperate climate - San Diego Five or six times over the past three years I've experienced the following issue. This happens completely out of the blue... One day an absolutely rock solid idle at 780RPMs, the next this craziness. No CEL. No pending fault codes on the OBD2. The MAF (OEM) was replaced about 10,000 miles ago, no obstructions in the intake, air filter is clean. Acceleration feels "normal", but let your foot off the gas even slightly and the car lurches like it either air or fuel starved. Wa
  5. '99 US Boxster 2.5 I started having some unusual electrical problems a few weeks ago... the passenger window was not dropping, manual lock light going on, etc. As I had done a number of years ago, I replaced the plastic part of the ignition switch under the dash. Last time that solved my issues, this time with no luck. With Maurice's help I diagnosed and replaced a bad passenger side locking mechanism. The window drop when activating both the inner and out handles is perfect now, thanks Maurice. At first, the intermittent lock light on the dash mounted rocker switch stayed off. Great, two bi
  6. A bit more info.... I knocked off work early today and hit the road. (What do you expect? San Diego, 75 degrees, gentle breeze, not a cloud in the sky. ). The lock doors light did not come on during the 10 minute trip so I stopped and locked the doors. The alarm armed and the passenger door locked... Thanks again.
  7. '99 US Boxster 2.5 I started having some unusual electrical problems a few weeks ago... the passenger window was not dropping, manual lock light going on, etc. As I had done a number of years ago, I replaced the plastic part of the ignition switch under the dash. Last time that solved my issues, this time with no luck. With Maurice's help I diagnosed and replaced a bad passenger side locking mechanism. The window drop when activating both the inner and out handles is perfect now, thanks Maurice. At first, the intermittent lock light on the dash mounted rocker switch stayed off. Great, two b
  8. Thanls to all for such detailed descriptions of this procedure. This weekend I had the joy of dealing with my base 98's top stuck in the up (closed position). A couple of observations and questions... After eyeballing the cramped areas around the red ball joint, and concerned about damaging the water barrier around the black ball joint, I opted for removing the clip that holds the clam shell to the push rod. That process went pretty easily, but I damaged one and it will be replaced. I would suggest everyone look closely at posted pictures of that clip, note the construction which should help
  9. Fit at top of window is fine... will update when completed this weekend. Thanks for the info Maurice! Steve
  10. Got my '99 base Boxster out of storage last month and have ben dealing with a dying/dead top motor. In driving around with the top up I've experiences a significant wind leak around the driver's side window. I have read a number of posts regarding window issues, I believe mine dates back to a poor asembly by an auto body shop who did work after I was backed into... my question is how to shift the window towards the rear of the car. I've read Maurice's posts on the Carrera forum, but am uncertain as to weather they apply to my 99 Box. Here is the passanger's window where clearances seem nomal +
  11. Try 0859 or 0857 Neither worked... my failing memory was saying 0831, but it's been a while since I had the battery disconnected. I'm now in wait mode.
  12. CDR-220 Becker 1 Type: 4462 Serial No: Y5041903 24/99 THANKS Loren!
  13. I suspected the oil separator based on previous posts... didn't know it could have this effect on the idle. TP - Is there a gasket required for the re-install of the valve? Difficult to see from the photo. Thanks
  14. '99 base - 71k miles. Two weeks ago the idle would not settle in at the usual 780 after a cold start. Wandered between 800 and 1000 in a random manor. Realized I had not been on the freeway in some time (I live a mile from work) and rarely got up to temperature for prolonged periods this winter. Went on a 40 mile loop at 80 mph or so but idle did not even out. It wandered less, but started to get rough when approaching the typical 780 rpm. Ran a tank with Techron injector cleaner with no change. No pending OBD codes. No loss of power. Noticed excessive white smoke on cold start Saturday. Mond
  15. In the process of removing the 1-2-3 intake manifold to get at my change-over valve for replacement. I can get to the six mounting bolts easy enough but am having issues with the fuel rail. What is the best way to remove supply/exit lines from the rail? The aft fitting has a nut that looks accessible, the fore fitting looks to slip on... should I expect a fuel spill when removing? Also, the electrical connectors to the injectors appear to have a small wire retaining clip on the bottom side. Does the wire move straight down? Any other advice on this project would be appreciated! 1999 base - 6
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