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stphnsns

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About stphnsns

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    Northern Indiana
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1997 Boxster
  • Future cars
    1999 996
  • Former cars
    1967 912, 1976 911, 1983 911,

Recent Profile Visitors

871 profile views
  1. In case anyone sees/needs this info, today the issue returned after a 60 mile road trip. I could not get it to resolve. Needing to drive home, I began experimenting with things, and hit the sport mode button prior to starting the car. The car then started in sport & everythig was fine - all the way home. I even took it out of sport & all stayed good. Ran like a champ. Happy for something of a temporary solution, but confused for sure.
  2. Hi guys, as stated above, 2011 V6 970, new to me, with 113,000 miles. Great condition, and drives great 95% of the time. On occasion (& seemingly when warm, after a longer drive?), typically when idling in park, I will get CE light, accompanied by PSM failure. Also, one time, got "auto start/stop failure", but I have since disabled that, so it doesn't pop up anymore. Durametric (actually POR icarsoft unit I travel with) showed only codes for P0302 and sport mode failure. Interestingly, if I turn the car off for a while, and restart, the codes will go away on their own. Anyway, sensing the
  3. I am unfortunately reviving this (exactly!) year old thread, started by me, as the symptoms I described above have mysteriously returned. Essentially: Higher than normal idle (1200-1500: goes up as car warms up), lack of power upon acceleration (probably 50-60%), and failure of sport mode to activate. Those are the primary symptoms. We replaced the throttle body, and thought that did the trick (seemed to for a while). Also in the last year, we've replaced the water pump, AOS, and drivebelt. My lucky year! Anyway, after about 3,000 miles, the problem has returned. It did a couple months ago, bu
  4. So, in case anyone runs into a similar problem, it turns out the problem was indeed the throttle body, in this case. It may have actually been the (attached) sensor, as the throttle body itself seemed ok. Once the DME "learned" the new T.B., everything has been great, and the car is back to running like new. I hope this helps, if anyone else encounters a similar problem.
  5. Hi, thanks for the post. The battery is, I believe, approx 2 yrs old. Voltage is strong and consistent from the battery, and also to the alternator. Interestingly, we kind of think we have it narrowed down (hopefully!) to a bad throttle body. Others have posted of similar issues. So we just replaced the throttle body, and got full power back (& also eliminated "sport mode failure" message which had started illuminating), but now the idle is VERY erractic, the car is harder starting. Unfortunately, for some reason, the OEM throttle body I ordered didn't come with a new seal, so I am now ord
  6. Hi, my mechanic just checked the voltage, and noted everything is good, and consistent. Would anyone have any further suggestions to this mystery? It's difficult to trace with no CEL. Thanks in advance!
  7. Hi guys, I always appreciate the helpful information I get here, so I thought I'd throw out my latest issue, and see if anyone had any input or advice. I have a 2006 997.1 C4S coupe, with approx 75k miles. I've owned the car for two, essentially trouble free years. I've sensed for a while now that I might be eventually facing the alternator cable update coming, as she's become a little slow to crank, and definitely slower when warm. But the car has always started, and then run great. I recently had an oil anaysis at Blackstone, and everything checked out well. Anyway, over the weekend, when I
  8. Also, if I read correctly, we never find out what the true issue/solution was on the related post (below), so it's possible I could be dealing with a faulty DME?
  9. Thank you for the input! The plugs, coils and tubes were all replaced in the last year, but I suppose it's worth taking a look at. Thanks again - will report back if any conclusive findings.
  10. Thanks guys, for the quick follow up. I had seen that article, and certainly noticed the similarities between car and issue, but frankly, it goes over my head (most things do). I will share the info with my mechanic though, and see if we get anywhere. Would your expert opinion(s) be then, that the misfire codes are unrelated, and perhaps due to weather, as George S suggested? Primarily concerned as to whether or not the car should be driven - even to the shop, as we diagnose. Thanks as always!
  11. PS - all the wiring around and related to the sensors has been checked for continuity, and seems to be in good shape. I know this has been a source of the P0343 code in the past. Thanks!
  12. Hi, 2001 986 2.7 with 152k miles. When I purchased the car, much work had already been done, including the (preventative) IMS bearing retrofit, plugs, tubes, coils, and AOS. The car was still throwing a P0343 code after my purchase, so we replaced both camshaft position sensors. Unfortunately, after clearing the CE light, it came back after about 20 miles or so. I don't drive the car too often (yet anyway!), but have used it occasionally, maybe 100-150 miles or so. I should note, it runs FINE. I've probably owned 5 or 6 986s, and this one seems to run comparable to any. Anyway, I decided to pu
  13. Ouch! Mercy. Though I would hope a good indy could do it for roughly 50-60% of that figure? Regardless, I wish you all the best in getting it back on the road.
  14. Yuk, sorry to hear it, as that sounds painful. I hope there's a simple and cost effective solution for you. Keep us posted please!
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