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About MikeA

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  • From
    Truckee, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 Carmon Red C2 Cab
  • Former cars
    2001 Seal Grey Boxster S

MikeA's Achievements


Member (1/1)



  1. LOL! I think I will pass on the air horn Loren. I guess I just assumed (you know what they say about assume) that the alarm horn was the high frequency horn from the steering wheel. Thanks for setting me straight. On second thought, maybe the air horn is not a bad idea :P
  2. So I discovered a strange thing with the gremlins in my horn system. Originally I had thought that the high frequency horn had failed since the low frequency horn only sounds when I hit the horn on the steering wheel. So I decided to see if my high frequency horn would work when I intentionally set the alarm off. Yep, the high frequency horn honks just fine when I set the alarm off. Now if both horns are controlled by the same relay, fuse and wiring harness, and the low frequency horn sounds when I honk from the steering wheel, what the hey could possibly be stopping the high frequency horn from sounding when I honk the steering wheel horn? Clearly the high frequency horn works when the alarm is tripped so what would make it not work when I honk from the steering wheel? Anyone have any ideas? :huh: :huh: Thanks in advance, Mike
  3. Thanks Loren. As always I can count on you for a prompt and to the point response. I appreciate it. Mike
  4. Hello all, My 2004 C2 Cab seems to have the driver side horn out (higher frequency horn). Before I take off the front bumper and start to replace the horn, I need to know if both horns use the same relay and fuse. In other words if the right side horn still works, is it safe to assume that the problem with the left side horn is that it has died and is not potentially caused by a relay or fuse? I also would like to buy the horn and replace it in one session so I don't have to remove the bumper twice or worse, I cant drive my car because the bumper is off and I am waiting for a part. Any help or insight on this repair from others who have done the replacement would be greatly appreciated. Seems like I have seen a thread on this or some other board dealing with this very same thing but all of my searches turned up nothing. Mike
  5. At the risk of sounding repetitive, very good video and well narrated. Timing is perfect for me since one of my horns stopped working and I will need to pull the bumper to get at it. Thank you for taking the time to make and post the video.
  6. Just ordered 2 liters of ATE 200 (Gold) from Tire Rack. Hopefully I can find time next weekend to do the brake/clutch flush. If not I will do it the following weekend. I am just as curious as you as to what color bleeds out of my system. Stay tuned... OK, time for me to eat crow... I just bled my brakes again with ATE Gold. The stuff that came out of the brake lines was greenish blue. It became lighter green as I continued to flush but never turned the gold color of the fluid in the can. Prior to bleeding I mixed a small amount of some ATE blue that I had from my last DIY brake flush with the new ATE gold that I just bought. I mixed it 50:50 in a small glass flask and it remained as blue as if it was straight ATE blue. I continued to add more ATE gold but the mixture just became a lighter shade of blue-green and never completely turned gold before I stopped. I stopped because I am now convinced that the ATE blue has an incredibly strong blue dye that resists color change even when diluted several times with the gold. Clearly this makes switching colors of brake fluid with each flush somewhat worthless. The only time it really is effective for determining when the old fluid is purged is when going from gold to blue. Going from blue to gold will not be to useful to determine when you have purged the old and new fluid is flushing out. I guess it is time to call the dealer and apologize for doubting that they flushed the brakes. I now feel quite confident that they did indeed flush the brakes and probably did use two liters of fluid yet could not get the blue out. I'm somewhat surprised that this has not come up before on Renntech. Hopefully my experience will save others the frustration of trying to get all of the blue out of their brake lines when flushing. Thanks for all the feedback people, Mike
  7. Just ordered 2 liters of ATE 200 (Gold) from Tire Rack. Hopefully I can find time next weekend to do the brake/clutch flush. If not I will do it the following weekend. I am just as curious as you as to what color bleeds out of my system. Stay tuned...
  8. I intend to buy a liter of ATE gold in the next week or two and I will do the flush myself again. It will take me less time to flush the my brakes at home than it woud to drive the 200 mile round trip back to the dealer and wait for them another hour to do the flush over. I will make sure to pay very close attention to the color of the fluid that comes out. I doubt it will be gold but if it is, I will call the dealer and apologize to them. I will post my result here in case anyone who has followed this thread is curious. The reason they claim to have used two liters to flush my brakes is that they said they needed that much to get all of the blue fluid flushed out. Ironic isn't it, since the fluid in the reservoir is still very blue! Maybe they should have used three liters (just being sarcastic now).
  9. I still have the 60cc hypodermic syringe with the 5 cc's of blue fluid I drew out of the reservoir sitting here inf front of me. I aslo have some ATE blue left in the can from my last flush 2 years ago and I compared the unused left over fluid to the stuff in the syringe. The color, tint and tone look identical to me. As I said, it is not so much that I got ripped off for the cost of the flush that angers me, it is the fact that the dealer blatantly lied and continues to lie about the flush being done. I can not trust them again in the future and I certainly will never buy a Porsche or Audi from that dealership. Their dishonesty will have cost them at least one and perhaps two future auto sales.
  10. The dealer told me that they used 2 Liters of gold fluid to do the flush. This is also what I was charged for under parts. In the past when I have completely flushed my 986 and 996 brakes, I got by with just about one liter. If they used 2 liters I would think that there shouldn't be any trace of blue left. Izzy, when you have flushed out your blue fluid in the past, did you have any trace of blue left in your reservoir? My dealer is still insisting that they flushed with 2 liters of gold and that the blue in my reservoir is just "residual trace blue fluid" I really don't see how there could be ANY blue fluid left after flushing with 2 liters of gold. thanks
  11. Thanks Loren but I have done the brakes before (actually once in my old Boxster and once in my current 996). It is fairly straight forward. The blue fluid was in the system from when I flushed it last myself. The only reason I had the dealer do it was because of the fact that the 30K service and pre warranty expiration inspection needed to be done so I had them do the spark plugs and brake flush as well. I just hope that the spark plugs were replaced also and they didn't do the same thing with the plugs that they did with the brake flush. I was under the illusion that this dealer was fairly reputable. In fact I was considering buying an Audi from them also. Is there such a thing as a reputable dealer anymore!! There probably is no Easter bunny either.
  12. Bit the bullet and took my 04 C2 Cab to the dealer for the 30K service, spark plug change and brake flush. The main reason I did this is to have the car thoroughly checked over before the warranty expires in two weeks. I had flushed the brakes myself two years ago with the power bleeder and used ATE blue. The dealer tells me they only use the Porsche gold fluid yet my brake fluid reservoir is still full of blue fluid. I used a syringe to draw up about 5 cc's of the stuff and it is as blue as the stuff that comes from the can. I called my dealer and the Service Manager claims he watched the tech do the flush and assured me that it was done. -Does this sound reasonable? (It doesn't to me). I have driven over 100 miles since the flush and would think that significant mixing would have occured if any blue fluid was left. -New gold fluid is introduced to the system through the reservoir so shouldn't it have the least amount of risidual blue fluid left? -Would you feel confident that the brakes where truly flushed given this situation? The dealer did offer to flush the brakes again for me but I live in Truckee (about 100 miles from the dealer) and the dealer is in Rocklin. I don't have the time or desire to drive 200 miles round trip to have this done again. I have always trusted this dealer in the past and now don't no what to think. Thanks for your thoughts on this.
  13. Thanks Loren, I hadn't thought about trying an indy. Since I am up in Truckee I would probably be looking for a shop down in the Roseville or Rocklin area near the dealer. I have not had any luck with Porsche service in Northern Nevada so I usually go to the dealer in Rocklin. Do you have any recomendations for a independent shop in that area?
  14. Hello all. I haven't posted here in some time but am in need of some thoughtful advice. My 04 C2 Cab will be four years old in three weeks and the factory warranty will expire. I currently have 29500 miles on the car so it is in need of the 30K service. Because of the warranty expiring I am thinking that I should take my car to the dealer for the 30K service. This would provide me with one last chance to have the car inspected for any repairs that could still be included in the warranty. The biggest issue I have is paying $1250 for a 30K service (including the brake flush) just in case that I have some hidden problems that could be repaired under warranty. I have done my own oil & filter changes, flushed my brakes at 2 years and changed air and pollen filters myself-no big deal. So here are my questions: 1) Do you think it is worth the outragous price for a 30K service just on the outside chance that something might be found that can be fixed on warranty? 2) Do I really need to have the spark plugs changed at 30K since the manual states that this should be done at 60K or 4 years (I am now at 4 years)? If so then I probably should let the dealer do spark plugs and 30K service since I really would prefer not to mess with the plugs. I've never really heard before that spark plugs deteriorate with time. Isn't it just the number of miles or ignitions that wear out the plugs? Thanks for any thoughts on this. I'm sure that others have had this dilemma as well but I couldn't find any specific answers by doing a topic search.
  15. Thanks Loren. Is there any relatively simple way of determining if it is the headlight switch or the ignition switch? I no longer can get the dash lights to come on either by jiggling the light switch or the ignition switch with the key inserted. The dash lights refuse to come on at all now.
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