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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. If the car is parked with the ignition on (engine not running), the message appears on the dash after a certain time (depends the actual battery condition) and means that the possible power users will cut off automatically, to prevent power failure.
  2. djomlas Have you already removed and cleaned the idle valve on the left side of the throttle body? (non E-gas system, as showed on your pic.)
  3. If you talking about the drains near the battery, don't worry about that, they have nothing to do with your problem, the drain holes are above the fuel tank=outside of the car, as long the holes are free, no problem. As mentioned in my earlier post, remove the A-pillar inside trim to check the sun roof drain tubes, they are very brittle.
  4. Original Porsche prolonged warranty cover all mechanical and electronic failures, unfortunately too late in your case. Porsche factory rebuild engines have all the latest updates as mentioned in your post.
  5. I would bleed the clutch to start with and do a test, perhaps the result will be better.
  6. The bleeder screw is in most cases the culprit, but to find that 100% out, you should remove the bleeder screw and take a closer look.
  7. The alarm control box is located under the driver seat, remove the seat and the underlying control box, check the fuse on the rear side of the box. Check the fuses in the fuse box in first place.
  8. IMS failures occurs mostly under low revs by the irregular torque of the camshafts, the pressure cam>valve spring in pressed state (and the related time during the pressed state, idle=long - max.revs.=short) is high and irregularly distributed on the shafts by the engine fire order. A crankshaft will turn smoothly by hand in a short block (cyl.heads and timing chains removed) cyl.heads with camshafts installed (on the bench) are a lot more difficult to manipulate, the camshafts will jump away all of the time. Older 924/928/944/964 timing belt failures occurred for the same reason mostly at low revs.
  9. Oil loss in the bell housing area in combination with no traction/gear shift and a smoking ATF fluid, probably caused by a overheated transmission by a shortage of oil (oil loss), indicates in first place a major oil leak with probably serious consequences for the complete transmission. A dismantling and closer inspection of the trans. is recommended. Tiptronic S is in first place control box related (Boxster ZF Tiptronic S 6 speed ?????).
  10. What is meant with temperature control flap and motor? If you talking about the A/C - heater unit, a PIWIS diagnostic tool is the best and quickest option.
  11. Ad a fully covered insurance to your list to be sure, fortunately your steering wheel is on the right side ;)
  12. The spoiler cover comes off if you remove the screws, which are located above the glass part of the hatch , on the inside behind round black plastic covers (you have to open the glass part). Lift the spoiler cover on the rear side a little and pull off rearwards. The antenna is screwed on and simple to replace.
  13. Could be a CAN-bus error or something similar, however it is anomalously and should be resolved under warranty rules by an OPC (2 years), difficult or not.
  14. In fact TSB's are a help for the network (kind of workshop manual), it shows what to do and how, but are not by definition warranty covered. Do a search, this water tube subject is covered frequently here.
  15. The antenna is in the rear top spoiler, right side, black square block. It's not that expensive at all (Porsche rules)
  16. Replace the switch on the clutch pedal or check it out with a PIWIS diagnostic tool, there should be (switch) fault codes in the memory.
  17. Let check the battery charge, for good condition first, in a reputable shop to be sure. Power cable failures are not uncommon on 997, do a search for more information.
  18. 987/997 fans have a control box (electronic) near the right front radiator, the fans should not run continuously, with the A/C on, like the 996 does. I would check the system with a PIWIS diagnostic tool first.
  19. Disconnect the cylinder push rod from the pedal, disconnect the cylinder from the pedal box, remove the upper flexible (plastic) hydraulic line from the cylinder, push the cylinder backwards and remove the rear flexible hydraulic line (in the front trunk besides the brake booster). You can use the old "C" clips in case of emergency.
  20. The cylinder in your pic. is the master CLUTCH cylinder, the master BRAKE cylinder is not visible from the inner side of the foot well. You can clean the mess up with water, brake fluid is soluble with water.
  21. Master brake cylinder (rear side/leaking inside the brake booster) - ABS unit (leaking under the trim/carpet in front trunk) - master clutch cylinder (leaking under the carpet pedal area) - clutch slave cylinder (leaking inside the bell housing) - the other possible leaking spots are visible by brake fluid traces on the garage floor.
  22. You have to order the clutch assembly which is conform with the engine (MY03 - 3.6 Litre)
  23. I have no idea about the prices in the US, anyway, the parts are not cheap. The Valeo replacement looks raisonnable to me because the labour time is approx. the same for both solutions (removing and reinstall the complete dash and A/C-heater vent. system) Only the labour time for the vent. system housing dis and reassembling, to install the Valeo replacement and vent. flaps, is an additional cost.
  24. The part in your pic. is a slat of the air vent, good luck to reinstall the slat. :censored:
  25. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=26664 996 use the same system.
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