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jcorallo

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About jcorallo

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    Member

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  • From
    Billericay, Essex, UK
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1997 Porsche Boxster
    1993 Golf VR6
  • Future cars
    Boxster S 3.2

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  1. Your test is invalid because you're not keeping an important parameter constant between the two tests: speed. If you use the brakes to hold yourself to the same speed coasting as would be provided by engine braking alone, your fuel mileage will be better using the engine braking. The engine should use essentially zero fuel under engine braking conditions. I've yet to see a fuel injected car that fires the injectors in an engine-braking scenario (assuming the revs are above idle). The injectors are absolutely firing if the car is at idle or the idle circuit is engaged (< 1300 RPM or
  2. ....when going DOWN HILL : 1) Staying in gear using engine braking - or 2) Shifting into neutral and letting the engine idle, using foot-brake to control speed DISCUSS! B) Jules
  3. Thanks Tool Pants, that really helps. Its hard to tell, but it does look like the cams are sitting slightly out of their journals at the far end, but I guess that is to be expected given how they are held in. At least it seems the cams wouldnt just flop out if the cam cover was removed, with the engine still in place in the car. Regarding the VarioCam solenoids - do these just operate an oil pressure control valve? Or is it the solenoids themselves that move the cams? Jules
  4. Hi, Has anyone got any pictures of the Boxster 2.5 engine with the cam-cover removed, and maybe a picture of inside the cam cover? A picture tells a thousand words and all that - I cannot tell from the workshop manuals if its the cam cover that holds the camshafts in place, or if the camshafts are bolted to the head with saddles. I wanted to know if you removed the cam covers, if the cams would just flop out... and if I needed a special tool to hold the cams in place when removing/installing the cam cover. Jules
  5. OK thanks - that confirms it. 1) DME 2) Alarm unit 3) Key heads (with the immobilidsor pill) and key remote controls Presumably, if I was to install the donor DME and alarm unit in to my car, and in the end decided to keep them installed permanent, I could get an OPC to reflash this donor DME with my correct VIN and immobilizor codes, and I would then use my original key fob / remote control ? Do I need to know details of the original car the DME came from, in order to re-flash it? Jules
  6. Hi, I wanted to try a replacement DME in my Boxter 1997 2.5 5sp manual (RoW - UK version) Dont want to go into why in this thread... I just want to know what I need to do to accomplish this for a quick test I wanted to do. So apart from the DME unit itself, what other control boxes from the donor vehicle do I need to bring over for it all to work, and where abouts in the vehicle are the particular units located? I dont want to have to bother with re-programming the donor DME with immobilisor codes etc, I just want to try a different DME, and can bring over the other control boxes as ne
  7. Answer: Just pull it as hard as you can and it will come out - there is enough 'give' in the air box, and enough 'spring' in the clip for it to force out rearwards towards the back of the car. I guess it was installed this way during assembly since it was easier for an operative to insert in that way on a production line. In terms of getting it back in, you wont be able to get it back the way it came out unless you use a lot of force with the risk of breaking something. You have to put the clip back in from the engine side, with the closed end facing the engine and the open end facing
  8. Hi, Boxster 1997 UK 2.5L. How do you remove the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) on the 2.5 Boxster? I tried to pull out the FPR retaining clip but it hits the air cleaner box. Cheers, Jules
  9. I normally remove the CV joints from the shafts to replace boots, but I'm aware that tools and techniques exist that stretch the rubber boot over the CV joint, without having to remove the CV joint from the shaft (joint still has to be undone from the transmission though.. Heres one: http://www.bootslider.com/ Also, there are various "cone" sliders about that allow the boot to slide up the cone, over the CV joint and onto the shaft. Jules
  10. What year and engine is the car? How many miles? Could be a worn engine / valve guides.... but: 1) Check you havent overfilled the engine oil. 2) Next thing to suspect is the AOS - air oil separator. Have a look inside the throttle housing and see how much oil is coming through... Cheers, Jules
  11. As mentioned above, the front rads on these cars collect leaves which rot leading to leaks. If you are worried about over-pressure, yes check the coolant cap, but also get the air in the coolant header tank 'sniffed' to test for cylinder head gasket leaks (after the engine has been run for a bit). On my old VW Golf VR6, the heater matrix deep in the dash blew apart (fun - not) because the head gasket had gone and was forcing combustion pressure into the cooling circuit. Jules
  12. Hi Loren, No fault codes, I have the dumb early UK DME which is not fully OBD2 compliant, and I cleaned the throttle a while back in Feb - even then, there was nothing much to speak of to remove - all very clean. At weekend I lubricated the IACV with some WD40 and the car has been running really well last couple of days now - so I strongly suspect a problem with this valve. The engine pulls cleanly and also I don't get the erratic bouncing-back-to-idle at junctions - just smooth now. Its a bit irritating that I havent found something definitive, but its very coincidental that after lubrica
  13. Hi Loren, Yes, when I come to a junction and dip the clutch, the revs sometimes shoot way up past normal idle speed, then down to a shudder before recovering back up to idle. Also my car very nearly failed the emissions test. I have new MAF, O2, plugs - which all work - shouldnt be running bad. With regard to my 2nd question, I meant with the IACV disconnected from the car - my flap is slightly open so was wondering if this was normal? My IACV was buzzing which was what made me look at it. It was making a rattling / jingling / gurgling / humming sound. It made each one of these sounds
  14. Hi, Three things: 1) I have access to a PST2 and was testing my IACV which I suspected to be faulty. I removed the IACV from the throttle body, but left it attached to the wiring harness and left the unit on top of the oil cooler, angled so that I could see the flap. When activating the IACV test in DME Drive Links, the IACV snaps open and closed very quickly about once a second. I'm wondering if this is normal - I was expecting to see the flap move slowly open and slowly closed, not snap open and shut as fast as it could. Or does this behavior mean the IACV is sticking? 2) Also
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