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hardtailer

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About hardtailer

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    Contributing Member

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    Male

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  • From
    Bavaria, Germany
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    Porsche 996 Carrera
    BMW M3 (E30)
    BMW 320is (E30)
  • Former cars
    BMW 320is (E30)

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  1. I have two symptoms similar to yours: 1. My battery is drained after 2-3 weeks of sitting locked. I tend to think the drain by the alarm system in the first 5 days of sitting (after that it switches to a less power consuming mode) causes this. 2. I have one beep when I lock the car and as stated above it means one zone is found open. Apart from the already mentioned ones there are two more (as I learned over at rennlist.com). One is the switch behind the OEM radio that breaks the circuit as soon as the radio is pulled out or its connector pulled off. Apparently isolating the/a brown ground wire and leave it disconnected solves that when fitting an aftermarket radio. The other 'zone' is the actuator that locks the manual levers to open trunk and engine lid when locking the car using the remote. I found in my 99 Carrera 2 that the locking actuator was not fitted and it looks it never has been as the actuating rod and associated plastic clips n guides are absent too. Looking at 2nd hand parts online I am not sure every 996 up to 00 came with this actuator even though the parts catalogue states so. See pictures below for the associated parts. A way to check whether that is the open zone is to open the trunk, push its lock to the closed position using a screw driver, get access to the battery poles, lock the car via the remote. (You should get a single beep if you successfully locked the trunk lock else two beeps) Disconnect the positive battery wire, open the car with the key and pull the trunk lever. If the trunk lock snaps open then you either have no actuator locking the levers or it is broken (in the open position) and the single beep stems from it being broken. Cover removed from sill (on LHD car) yellow lines mark locked and open position The actuator fits on the right side of the alloy bracket. Being a UK car it has to fulfill Thatcham anti-theft requirements which probably had porsche fit the siren and tilt sensor shown above that is different from RoW vehicles.
  2. Probably addressed to Estii but I'll answer nonetheless. Yes I have an aftermarket radio. What is the interaction between stock radio and alarm that no longer works with an aftermarket system?
  3. Thanks for clearing this up. Michelin are good tyres I don't suspect them to be the cause of your observations. Also after a couple of hundred miles they are run in and perform. Apart from tyre pressure (what cold pressures did you measure yourself?) it could be alignment or a tyre bead seating problem. The latter can sometimes happen when the tyre is being fitted to the wheel and the bead doesn't slide over the hump on the wheel rim all the way into the seat area.
  4. Typo or not? Referred to my 2nd post quoting you " ...and all bushings , balljoints or tie rods where deemed worn ." --> Replace all that was deemed worn then. No use fitting new coil-overs etc. and keeping the worn stuff. Should that have been a typo (i.e. all NOT worn ) So was "all worn" a typo that should have read "all not worn"? I am asking as I am surprised why you would not replace the worn parts but instead would replace springs; ARBs and shock absorbers that were not deemed worn and don't wear in 40k miles.
  5. Assume tyre pressure is off and check yourself. What tyres did you get? " ...and all bushings , balljoints or tie rods where deemed worn ." --> Replace all that was deemed worn then. No use fitting new coil-overs etc. and keeping the worn stuff. Should that have been a typo (i.e. all NOT worn) have the alignment checked, although I admit that is not something you notice when going ~100mph but already at 50mph or so. Same/similar goes for worn engine mounts. What's the mileage btw?
  6. Öhlins, intrax, KW, Bilstein and H&R all will have coil over kits for all MYs of the 996. Eibach for anti-roll bars (and lowering springs). However, your problem most probably is not caused by worn out springs, ARB or dampers but by wrong tyre pressures, worn tyres and/or bad front/rear wheel alignment. As long as rubber suspension bushes (in the lower control arms) are not torn they are not the root cause. Which is not to say that you'd notice an improvement in steering precision after fitting new ones. Play in the ball joint in the rear lateral control arm could be, however as could be play in the ARB drop link joints. But you should notice (and hear it!) that at speeds way lower than 100mph. At 100mph aerodynamics play an important role. Are all the plastic underbody parts, especially in front of the front axle fitted? Are you running aero kit parts at the rear without the according pieces at the front or the other way around?
  7. Estii asked about the fuel door not me. I asked (21 june) about the engine cover/hood release solenoid.
  8. I'm looking for a definitive answer on the following question: Did all MY99 996 and 986 use the actuator 996624115.01? I have the pig tail with connector in my MY99 996 but the actuator is not fitted. I'm unsure it was ever fitted as the bracket fitted does not have the actuating rod that moves the locking plate. Looking for 2nd hand parts I see many MY99 parts from 986 and 996 that don't show the rod either and asking the seller breaking the 986/996 yields the answer 'don't have the locking actuator' with above mentioned part number... That makes we wonder as the part catalogues list the part for both 986 and 996 as used up to (and including) MY00. Some pictures below to show (1st pic) bracket without rod, 2nd pic with the actuating rod in the bracket and the actuator itself in the 3rd picture. Can anyone shed some light on this?
  9. Check out if the rhd part number for the release cable has been used on other porsche models too. I bet it has and only in the other use cases the grommets are used.
  10. David is correct. The haze of exterior color you see in the wheel wells or frunk and such are overspray from the robotized paint booths in the plant. Underneath is light grey primer. It is like that on all cars.
  11. Slight thread hi-jack but on-topic... Is the electric frunk and engine lid latch locking actuator on up to MY00 cable operated lids also monitored by the alarm ECU?
  12. What do you mean by a reverse torx bolt? The tail light is held with one single M6 bolt (hexagonal head) per side. Only removing the bracket requires removing the 2 per side torx studs. Spray the remaining studs with penetrating oil from from behind after pulling the light clusters away
  13. Raising this topic as I had the same symptoms. The TC actually does work as described when it tries to reduce engine braking torque. See here for more info switching off the TC or changing the rear tyres to the right size (285/30R18 or 295/30R18) stopped this behaviour.
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