seafeye

Here are some various photo's of your work so far.

Look at where the caliper is held to. I found a great spot to keep it out of the way. Behind the plastic fender protector is a hole, perfect for handing the brake. All wiring out of the way etc...

Next we are going to start to remove the strut.

This is where you will hear all types of cursing and swearing.

My brain is too small to understand how all these bits work together so if you have a better idea of how this should be done please post. Please.

In your front trunk there is a plastic shield protecting the cabin filter (RIght side USA Cars) remove the torx bolt, take out the battery tray and shield. You will see the 3 nuts holding the strut to the body of the car. My torx bit came out with the rubber piece attached. It shouldn't, so i will have to go order a new one from Porsche $2.

Take a sharpie pen and mark all the strut nuts. Draw a circle around them or whatever. You will have to place the strut back in this place when you reassemble the car.

Now this is where there is many ways to skin a cat.

Take you Jack and put it under the wheel carrier and compress the spring. Next take a spring compressor and attached it to the strut. Holding the spring.

You will need a 17mm wrench and 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the sway bar bolt. I found it easier to completely remove the sway bar from the car. The bottom sway bar bolt is 17mm inside and 15mm outside. Take these apart. It may take some effort to take the bolt out of the strut.

On the strut behind the wheel carrier is a tab. This prevents the strut from sliding down the carrier. Acts like a stop. If you can lower the wheel carrier now and straighten the tab, this will help you lower the strut into the carrier, thus making it easier to remove the whole strut.

Next take the bolts out in the trunk. Don't lose them. Or anything for that matter. Beer 5...

You should be able now to compress the strut and weisel it out the side of the car. Please be careful the compressed spring is more powerful than an Iraqi scud missle. It should just slide out from the carrier, Put it in a safe place away from kids and cats.

OK good you made it this far.

The removal of the brake is going to go much faster. Count how many beers you have had. If you are over 3 then slow down, there is a lot more to do.

So take out your allen key socket and remove the caliper bolts.

You should probably take out the brake pad sensors and pads first...I didn't cause i was on beer 4.

Remove the 10mm bolt holding the brake lines to the strut and grab a bungy cord to hold the caliper out of the way. You can take the caliper off but then you will have to bleed the brakes later. More work.

Remove the 10mm bolt on the other side of the wheel carrier. This holds the cable for the brake wear sensor and the ABS control sensor.

My ABS control sensor was held in with a small allen nut. On the other side of the car it was a torx. Part of my car might have been made in 1998 and the other in 1999.

On the back of the strut is a plastic clip that holds some wiring for the brake sensor. It just pops out. I actually broke this plastic clip trying to take it off the strut. It was difficult to take a picture back there so there isn't one. On reassembly i tie wraped the clip back on the strut.

Could you tell me what the paint code was that your painter used for the interior pieces and do they match the existing silver interior pieces.

Thanks,

Jerry

Paint looks great. Can i ask how much you had to pay for this?

Daytona Beach Bike Week 2007

Some pics for you bike lovers...

I will post some Porsche Renntech Reunion pics from here Nov 4th.

Let me know what you want to see...

Maybe I'm being too obsessive...

I'm hoping to do brakes this weekend (rotors, pads and rebuilt calipers). The nearest P-car dealer is a hike, so I ordered rotors and pads from one of the dealers who sells online. The parts arrived today and I was less than thrilled with the packing. All four rotors (inside their factory boxes) were put into one large box with lots of dead air space and a little bubble wrap. Needless to say, the bubble wrap did little to prevent 80 pounds of rotors from moving around. The outer box looked trashed on arrival. I inspected the rotors and three show no signs of damage and using a straight edge, don't look bent. The fourth isn't bent, but has a chip on one edge, pictured below. It's about 5/8" long, but only about 1/16" deep. I think it's out of the way of the pad so it won't interfere with it. But, I'm wondering if this would throw off balance at all? Are rotors even balanced at the factory? Would you use this?

From what i understand from the rotor making process is that they are cast, then drilled, slotted then coated, plated, whatever...Then after all that is complete they put them on a machine to balance them. Alot like your tires, except material is taken off instead of weights added.

Anyway they grind off till they are acceptable.

You should be able to go to a NAPA auto parts or a machine shop and get them balanced if it worries you. They should have already been done but unless you see some work done it needs to be.

A buddy and I just did another M030 install. Three hours start to finish, both ends of the car. I found that the biggest pain in the a$$ in this job is removing and reinstalling the rear axle. So this time, we didn't do it.

We found it to be much quicker and easier to do the rear by disconnecting the rear camber eccentric bolt. If you do this, you don't need to remove the lower ball joint, you don't have to pry the control arm, you don't have to remove the axle and you don't have to remove the brake calipers.

Attached is a pic showing what I mean. I'm sure some of you knew this but nobody ever attached a picture.

Just viewed the IExif Data on your picture....Showed that this was the 7520th picture that you took with your camera. Nice to see i am not the only one snapping away.....

Cheers

Just for kicks you should try to get it covered under the 10 year rust warrenty!

Then when they say no, threaten with a lawsuit.

Looks like a factory design failure to me. Glad you didn't get hurt!

Porsche tool 9560 (part no. 000.721.956.00) -- MSRP $209.78

I think you can find a similar tool via third party.

Dummmmb question do you have a illustration on how to use the tool please

Here's a pic from my suspension R&R (http://gwl.rmsolo.org/hacks/suspension):

Just got back from NAPA and all they had was this tool....775-9096

Course mine is not black like in the picture.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLM...Joint+Separator

Did i get the right tool?

Thx

It's more likely a small rock got caught up in the dust shield. It's not an infrequent occurence, but it is kinda worrysome when it happens.

Glad you got it all fixed.

Next i need the courage to do the wheel bearings.

Haven't decided if i am going to do the removal of the carrier and all or find the kit that lets me leave it on the car.

When doing the front left brake the bearing felt horrible. So i wonder what all the rest are like...

Finally got around to putting new brakes on the car.

New Rotors and Pads and caliper bolts.

Got them on Ebay for $199 plus $80 for the pads. Shipping was $40 OUCH.

So loran i have a question for you....

Got all the bits back together. Bleed the brakes etc...

When i turn left i get a clicking sound from the left rear wheel?

*NEW*

Seems some dust? Metal parts? something got into the crack between the brake rotor and the dust shield.

Cleaned it out and i can't hear the noise anymore....The metal parts i figure came from when the brakes

were made i guess!!!

Saw this on Ebay....It is dark blue....i need a black one, so good luck...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-BOX...sspagenameZWDVW

Help please,

I have a 98 Boxster Cdn model. Last year I had MAF issue and was able to verify that the Maf was bad by unplugging the MAF and having the idle and drive conditions return to normal. I cleaned my MAF per the instructions I found here and everything has been great since.

Three days ago I got the dreaded P1128 & P1130 codes but my car was running great. I cleared the codes yesterday and then tried to start up. I thought my car was going to die. It barely held idle RPMS and did not rev out of idle at all. More gas caused near stall conditions. The ECM never threw an new code. I went back into the engine compartment, cleaned and re-installed the MAF. I started up again and... the same issue. I then un-plugged the MAF sensor to see if this solved the problem or at least improved the problem and I have the same idle and performanace issue.

If the car threw a new code I would know what to do.

Was my sequence wrong. Should I try all the reapairs before resetting the ECM?

Does anyone have a good suggestion?

Anxious for you thoughts and to get my Box running again.

Thanks for reading and I hope to receive some good ideas and advice

Tom

I am sure there are plenty of more qualified people here that will be able to help but here is my $.03.

The MAF does not affect your idle. So if disconnected you should still be in the idle range. If you are still having idle problems then this would lead me to believe you have to clean your throttle body or you fouled your plugs, bad gas etc...

So, clean the TB and check your plugs. You will only be able to clean the MAF a couple of times. Very delicate. You could even run your car without the MAF, but doing so could, most likely would harm your Cat converters. That will get pricey. But you can run the car without it for a short period of time, and just suffer reduced performance and fuel economy to get to a dealership to buy that MAF.

I'll get you before everyone else jumps on! This item has been HEAVILY discussed on the board, posibly the #1 engine topic. So do some searching to get 1001 threads on this. Additionally, if you don't have the Bentley manual get it NOW, it will explain the location and process in great detail.

see this search list.

Go new on such an item IMHO. I am all for used parts when it comes to mechanical stuff (not related to safety) on my vehicles (including my Porsche) to save money but the MAF is something you want right or you will have CEL again and again and not know who to blame!

Shawn

Ohio

If you don't have the Boxster Owners manual then you should download it from here...

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...&showcat=15

Then put the top in service mode (You will find this information in the above manual).

Go to Sears or wherever you can buy tools and get a Torx screw driver set.

Take out the MAF and put in the new one.

If you do some looking around you will be able to find one for less than $300. Do not buy used.

Lastly take Shawn's advice...THe search option here is fantastic. Plenty on the MAF.

Hi,

The price of avgas 100 and racing gas is very close. You

can buy leaded or unleaded racing gas at the track. All

Avgas has lead in it to prevent pinging. Sugest you run

101 unleaded racing gas.

Paul

Down in Miami a while back and at Signature FBO they were charging $4/gallon for avgas.

The owner of a navajo i was flying was considering parking it because of the high prices.

On a different note...If you were to put avgas in your car i bet you wouldn't get to burn the

whole tank down...your engine will be toast. That avgas burns HOT. I used to know the temp

that it burnt at but not now.....i switched to JET A.

:welcome:

When your friends tell you that you bought the "Poor Man's Porsche", show them

all the 996 part numbers all over the car.

You are the smart one for buying a 911 for a 986 price.

Congrats...

Did that engine you replaced have a 996 part # too? :huh: You should brush that chip off your shoulder.

Hey there's no chip...

I have owned a 1972 911, 1993 RS America, 1995 993 Cab and now the 986 (And a BMW 330CIC, Still need a 4 seater!)

Got a lot less speeding tickets with the boxster and love it like all the rest.

And yes the 986 motor has many 996 part numbers on it. Porsche didn't

become the most profitable car maker in the world for nothing.

Maybe people who bought the 911 are subsidizing boxster owners?

Same car less money!

:welcome:

When your friends tell you that you bought the "Poor Man's Porsche", show them

all the 996 part numbers all over the car.

You are the smart one for buying a 911 for a 986 price.

Congrats...

$30? Seriously?

Yep,that's how much they cost.

wow; for some reason i was under the impression they were like $230. for $30, it's a no brainer.

Picked them up last week and installed them today.

Very easy to install and fit great. Enjoy pics...

IMO the last great BMW built was a 1969 2002tii! (sorry I sold it when I was a dumb college kid).

Good luck with the 997...I took delivery on my 2007 Carrera 2S 3 months ago and we're having a blast!

It is a shame what has become of the german cars. I owned a VW Jetta and from day one the sunroof didn't work, and that was the start of the nightmare. My wife had a Passat and she liked driving it but what a piece of crap. And these were all new cars. The passat never drove right. When you started from a stop the car would hessitate then jerk forward. The VW shop told be it was turbo lag. Ya i laughed and said i can't believe you want me to believe that. Never did get it fixed and traded it in on a BMW 330CIC. 1000% better than a VW just as i expected! Now my wife is happier than ever and we all know how that makes our lives easier. Hopefully the BMW won't be any more unreliable than the VW. and judging by VW's recent ranking on the quality scale (Excellence, Sept issue) they came last out of like 37 car makers. Porsche first, Lexus second and Hyundai third. Shame we all have to learn the hard way but if you stick with Porsche you will come out ahead.

I agree about the reflection problem. No I don't use ArmorAll either...who would. I suspect that most people just live with the problem. I find that the issue is exacerbated when driving in and out of sun and shade. So....anyone else find this an issue?

Right the leather dash should not be shiny. Take some leather cleaner and sponge it clean. Make sure the finish is nice and flat when you are finished. Then take some leather conditioner and rub that in. After 10 or so min take a clean dry cloth (Lint free) and wipe it all down. It will look better than new.

As far as the chemicals....

Sonus is great ($22 for the kit) http://www.autopia-carcare.com/

Lexol is sold at dealerships www.lexol.com

Just some to get you started.

Hi Spencer,

What you are feeling seems to be a balancing issue, since you don't seem to experience any abrupt swaying, which would signal an alignment problem. Balancing in a reputable Tire Shop should take care of it.

Best,

Gustavo

Or see if the dealership that you bought the car will sell you an extended warranty.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...839212&rd=1

Porsche 911 S Engine NEW

2005 - 2006 997 3.8L S Item number: 230161839212

worked like a charm.

cheers mate

Does Weissach not have any Boxsters?

Thanks for the responses.

I thought for sure there would be some that say dump the 99 and get an "S".

But noone did.

Drove my car 70 miles this morning and loved it.

Guess if my old friend can live with me, i can live with her.