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Everything posted by seafeye

  1. So I put a new low volt (12v) battery in my cayenne hybrid last night. Because I would have to jump start the PIG to get her running before. This morning it wouldn’t start. I just turn the key... nothing...But...lights work. Radio works etc... After the 5th time turning the key it started right away. Any ideas? The battery I replaced was the original. 9 years old. 2012 Cayenne S Hybrid.
  2. I rebuilt both convertible top transmissions. Replaced the passenger cable. But this has me stumped: one side goes up while the other side goes down. can the planetary gears somehow get reversed? 1992 911 C4 with 993 part numbers on the transmissions
  3. Yes, I bought 2 cam sensors but replacing the passenger side did the trick. The check engine light i turned off with the durametric and it hasn't returned. Although when i hook it up to my computer the P0011 code is still there but does not turn on the check engine light. I recently replaced my valve cover gaskets and may have bent the wheel that the sensor reads off of? But no light means i'm good as far as i am concerned.
  4. No screws that I remember. Just clips holding it in place. Get a long flat screwdriver and pry it at the base of the clips. There is a wire connector. But you shouldn't have to unplug that. Might be helpful to get your fingers behind the door seals. This is for a early cayenne.
  5. I just changed my Bank 1 sensor. Cleared the codes, i'll drive the car tomorrow and hopefully the codes will stay away. Start to finish it took me 1 hour. Could have been 45 min if not for my neighbour wanting to borrow tools. Ok 55 min. It is really hard to take a picture of the sensor when it is in the engine. I could barely see it let alone get the iPhone in there. I took off the air pump like the original post. But i also took off the bracket that holds that on. Not sure i could really get to the sensor with that in the way. The bolt that holds the sensor is in a really precarious spot. My "E" torx socket is 3/8" and kinda tight to get in there. But you can get away with using a 8mm 1/4" socket. The bolt doesn't have to be screaming tight. You will need a M25 triple square and a 16mm socket to remove the top engine mount. At least loosen it and get it out of the way so you can remove the plastic engine beautification panels. Reverse is the same as dissasembly, I didn't lose any bolts or tools in the black hole today but i wouldn't attempt this without a good magnet to hold the bolt and tools. Last picture is how i was able to use the magnet to line up the bolt. Then used the same magnet to hold the socket to line that up. If the light stays out i don't think i will replace Bank #2 sensor. Didn't look over there to see if it is even possible without the removal of the intake.
  6. I have the professional version of durametric. Just the OBDII cables. North of Charlotte NC.
  7. Check engine light is on. Used the durametric to get the codes. I just did change the valve cover gaskets not too long ago. Not sure if that would be related. Where do I start?
  8. I have a kenwood in my Cayman. I just grounded the wire that was supposed to go to the parking brake. Best thing i did was replace the radios in both my Cayenne and Cayman. Look up the Dynavin for Cayenne. Gives a great stock look and is comparable with the bose.
  9. I have the same issue with my 04s. Passenger rear door. Did you find a solution?
  10. Try google: Devon Flexane 94 for prices. Here is the link to the manufacturer: http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?family=Flexane®%2094%20Liquid This should be better than the original. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/10005-boxster-engine-mount-replacement/
  11. We used to fill the boxster engine mounts with a liquid plastic to fill the void. Seems to work better than the original rubber porsche used. The part will reduce engine vibrations and help with smoother acceleration. The torque will be transferred to the transmission rather than twisting the engine block.
  12. I just redid mine. Opted for the black alcantara. Got the pillers and handles from a wrecked turbo. ($499) including sun visors. Then had the main piece recovered. Cost around $1500 including parts and labour. Not cheap but a dramatic change for the better. I think if you were to do just the main headliner you could get it done for $500. The material comes with the foam backing. So you have to scrape all the old stuff off. This is a DIY. But for the extra professional look Id rather pay to have it done.
  13. Do you have the owners manual? You do have to do a certain procedure to get the car out of low gear. If not, i have attached the reverent pages.
  14. If you have time maybe you could do it and submit a DIY here for the renntech viewers? http://rennsportkc.com/porsche-cayenne-spark-plug-replacement-rennsportkc/
  15. Maybe i will get in trouble for posting this….but i found it online and is good reading. This should explain how the Cayenne Air Compressor works along with other things…..
  16. Yeah. I was getting quotes of $500 just to the cloth headliner, and it probably wouldn't have matched. An added bonus is now my overhead lights work. And I now have homelink.
  17. Got tired of the sagging grey cloth headliner. I took out the large center piece to make sure the sunroof drains were clean. In doing so it pushed me into replacing it. I really like the black Alcantara in the turbo's so i found all the pieces on ebay and had a local upholster do the install. I had to buy 4 yards of Alcantara to do the large center piece and the sunroof. He put in some triple stitching in around the handles and down the center for a bit of a one off look. Anyway if you have a spare $1500 here is a fast of how it looks. Because i had grey interior i had to replace the handles, sunroof console, sun visors, seat belt plastic bits etc….
  18. Not sure i follow you 100%. The door can only be opened when you use the switch on the door. If that fails then you can pull the safety cord. You should be able to put a volt meter up on the wires and get someone to hit the switch to see if you have power to the solenoid. After checking the fuse of course. If no power then it could be your door switch isn't working.
  19. If you are going to be doing the rear. There are a couple odd ball tools you will need to remove the rotor. A M16 triple square bit to remove the caliper A M5 triple square bit to remove the small screw that allows access to the rear parking brake adjustment. If you are doing the front then you will have the torx bit for the screw that secures the rotor. No idea why they use a 21mm bolt on the front caliper and a M16 triple square for the rear.
  20. No codes, not for me anyway. But when I turn hard left or right from a stop. Like I'm getting out of a parking spot the car pulses. For the longest time I thought I had a bad CV joint. At low speeds I had a clicking noise. Reading the TSB it said that 75% of all transfer case replacements were not necessary. It was just this motor.
  21. Some interesting notes: My motor (Not sure it was original) was made in the USA. It had very very little grease on the gears. But i think the issue was with the plastic sensor on the front end of the motor. When i removed it, it didn't turn too freely and had a spot where it had a lot of friction. I bet everyone replacing these motors are doing so only because of this part. The new used part i replaced it with came from a 2008 Cayenne S. It only had VW markings on the motor. Google the part number and all the toureg web sites come up. Here is a link for the motor company in the USA…. http://www.globe-motors.com/transfercaseactuators.pdf Just incase your wondering here are the picture of the insides. I can't hold back on figuring out what makes things tick.
  22. This is a DIY replacement of the transfer case motor or stepper motor. On a scale of 1 to 10 (10 hardest) this would be a 2. Very easy. First things first. The stepper motor is located on the right side of the SUV. You just have to jack up the right front and don't forget to put a jack stand under the truck. The motor is about under the passenger door. You will need very little in the way of tools. Just a 8mm socket or wrench and a 10mm socket and a small flat headed screwdriver. Remove the two 8mm bolts and the two electrical connectors. To undo the connectors, (Large one first). Slide a small screwdriver under the retaining clip and the unit should slide apart. A little fidgeting and you will see. Same for the small connector. The wiring harness is held in place by a plastic piece. Just wedge this out of the hole so it isn't connected to the motor any longer. There are 3 main bolts holding on the motor. All 10mm. Just remove these three. There is one that is a bit hidden and can be a pain to get at but will some creative extensions it will come out. Now the motor will just slide out of its home. You can see where the gears fit together. Now assembly is the same as removal. Just push the motor up agains the transfer case, and put back the bolts. Plug in the connectors and lower the vehicle. This should only take 15-30 min at the most. Pictures should tell the rest of the story.
  23. Found a stepper motor from a 2008. Figure it will be a second generation motor and the price was super cheap ($150) so if it lasts only a short time it would seem worth while. Some interesting things… The motor on my transfer case was made in USA. I went to their web site and they have a brochure that has a picture of a Cayenne. Could this have been a factory part? I don't have any records of my motor ever being replaced but i am the 3rd owner. The other thing i noticed is that the motor has a planetary gear system. It had no grease on the gears. None. Seems weird that they would build it this way with no lubrication. After taking it apart i could only come to the conclusion that the plastic sensor on the front must have gone bad. The motor and gears all looked good. When i installed the new used motor i didn't have any symptoms like before. So this issue is fixed for now. Hope the made in germany part holds up better than the made in USA.
  24. I took a look at it tonight. Looks like i can push out the pin and then splice it like the TI says. But as with you, I would rather have the remote only working when the key is in the ignition. Did you have a spare connector to slide in the empty slot or did you rob one from your old overhead unit? My new overhead panel also has the parking assist. I think it will throw a code because i don't have any sensors. Might just be better off disconnecting the plug.
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