seafeye

The only reason to buy a beater is if it is really, really, really, cheap and you plan to continue the beating (race car). A totally pampered 99 is a keeper.

I am looking at a 2002 Boxster S.

65,000 miles. Black on Black 6 spd.

Hood has the usual sand blasted look, smoker car, overall OK condition.

Have yet to go further as far as a mechanical inspection.

From first look it was used somewhat hard.

Told brakes were recently done, clutch etc...

Now my question is....

My 1999 Boxster is a great car. Same miles, Cooler silver, albiet not much, but

great condition. New motor, well 35k ago etc..

It will cost me about 7k for the upgrade.

I like my '99, not crazy about the 2002 in black, specially here in Florida, but paying $7k

worth it?

Advice comments welcome.

i found a schematic of the system, but there don't seem to be any part numbers for the mixing doors. are they shown on here?

A while back i found the following...Hope this can help in your problem... ;)

The AC Climatronic unit is actually manufactured by Audi. There is some sort of serial data stream (not CAN) that allows the AC unit to display engine parameters. This works on 1997-2000 boxsters.

To switch from F to C:

Hold down the recirculating button then push both the temperature + - buttons.

To access diagnostics:

Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit.

Here is a list of what can be seen:

0c - ERL

1c - Oil Temp?

2c - Inside temp. Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash.

3c - Outside temp. Sensor located inside the air inlet of the A/C unit.

4c - Outside temp. Sensor located in front grill of the radiator. The data is fed to the Climatronic from the instrument cluster. When not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display retains it's last setting until moving. This is to prevent heat emanating from the radiator affecting the temperature sensor. The A/C unit uses the lower of the two outside air temp values in determining fresh-air temp.

5c - Outside temp. (matches with OBC outside temp display)

6c - Coolant temp.

7c - Footwell discharge temp.

8c - Sun sensor (dash top)

9c - Sun sensor.

10c - Passenger compartment fan speed.

11c - Passenger compartment fan voltage.

12c - Temperature mix Flap command 1=COLD, 100=HOT

13c - Temperature mix Flap position

14c - Central Flap command

15c - Central Flap position

16c - Footwell/Defrost Flap command

17c - Footwell/Defrost Flap position

18c - Recirculation Valve command 1=OFF, 100=RECIRC

19c - Recirculation Valve position (feedback)

20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer)

21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second.

22c - ?

23c - ?

24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum.

25c - ?

26c - ?

27c - ?

28c - Fan speed?

29c - ?

30c - Engine run time in seconds (255 max.)(=0xff)

31c - Timing counter

32c - Displays test

33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4

34c - ?

35c - Outside temp. from inlet sensor (filtered?)

36c - temp?

there is no such animal, as far as i know.

the question has been asked many times and i've never seen an answer.

there is a 'Porsche' font, but not a 'Boxster' font.

I've done a little searching and found some standard fonts, and other readily available freeware add-ons that are close, but not exact. Blazing and Bradley Hand ITC are close, but no cigar; Viner Hand ITC is my favorite, but it was unfortunately not available for my project -

But WhisperWrite (a third party font readily available via search engine lookup) is probably the closest match I've seen. With some modifications via font spacing, italicizing, and bolding these fonts can be made fairly passable, but certainly not exact matches. My search was for the purpose of selecting a font for the folks at http://www.signnetwork.com to use for creating my "Tschüß!" (bye-bye!) custom spoiler lettering. :P

Thanks for taking the time to help out.

I thought it would be cool to have Boxster on my brake calipers instead of Porsche. I will give the above a good look.

Cheers

Peter Smith at my local dealer replaced a clutch on a CGT.

He showed me the torque multiplier tool mentioned in the booklet. The wheel nut requires over 500 foot pounds of torque.

The socket itself is not in the kit as it was in another part of the shop. He used the customer's socket which is stored in the front trunk.

I would not want to get a flat on that car. The only place the car is going is to a Porsche dealer on a flatbed.

Speaking of high torque values...The axel nut on a Boxster is way higher than any torque wrench i own...Do you have a trick to use?

After seeing the discussion on here I bought a set of the GT3 (non-RS) ducts from Suncoast for my '99 Boxster for about $30 and installed them this past weekend. Took less than an hour, including a little cleanup. Remove your front wheels first. You might want to do a bit of de-greasing/cleanup so you can see what you're doing. Then you remove the old ducts by "unbuckling" the two tabs holding them onto the lower suspension arm -- I used a large screwdriver blade as a lever to unlatch the tabs. It's a bit hard to describe, but there's one part of the tab that goes over the arm and has a hook, the other tab under the arm is an open loop that the upper hooked tab fits into. When you unlatch the two hooks, you can bend the plastic tabs back, and work the duct off of the lower arm. towards the front of the car. Observe how it comes off, as this is the same way you install the new one. Be careful not to break any of the tabs off. The new ducts are a bit bigger and stick down much more than the OEM Boxster ducts. Next time I make it to the track we'll see how much improvement they make in reducing brake fade.

Pictures i need pictures....

I assume there's a link you followed to undergo this project. I've had the rear bumper cover off; very simple. You mentioned rivets? I'll need to do some searching to find how to accomplish this. I'd like to do some cleaning, as well as a little paint repair (underneath) where the prior owner scaped a curb or such.

Glad you asked....I found this link months ago but never got around to doing this.

http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Porsche/R...r/Radiator.html

In terms of importance i think this should be a must do project. Some of my concerns before were that i wouldn't be able to get the bumper cover to

sit properly after the reinstall. But Porsche did a great job of making this idiot proof. No matter what it seemed to line up.

The other concern i had was that i would not get the car back togther. But if you can do puzzles aimed at 5-10 year olds, you are set.

The other thing i did but didn't mention is that i used a hose to rinse the radiators. Not a hard spray to hurt the fins, just a gentle flow.

All black bits got the Mothers treatment of "Back to Black". Works great.

Did you take the two Torx screws out of the AC condensers and clean the radiator behind them?

Yep, slid out fairly easy. Couldn't believe all the crud in there. I wonder how much is still there between the radiator and the fan.

Thought maybe i was going to find our missing cat.

Finally got around to driving to Orlando any buying the rivets for this project.

Spent around 7 hours doing this. A lot of the time was spend cleaning the plastic bits. Alot.

Total to take off the front bumper is about 45min and maybe an hour to put it back on.

I don't know how i picked up a cigarette butt but there it sits.

Anyway so far a success, maybe i am just imagining things but it seems like i am getting

more air through my vents. After 7 hours i must be.

Just wondering if anyone here has a Boxster Font file?

I have done some googling but unable to find one.

Thx

If you want to come to Toronto, you can contact www.Peninsulaimport.com and they can help you to import your car to Canada.

Transport Canada does a good job of explaining it on their web site.

http://www.tc.gc.ca

http://www.tc.gc.ca/roadsafety/importation/menu.htm

I have attached the file that i hope will help.

Importing_to_Canada.pdf

If you want to come to Toronto, you can contact www.Peninsulaimport.com and they can help you to import your car to Canada.

I have never heard of that being available but Porsche does sell a "Certificate of Authenticity".

This valuable document includes your vehicles original factory installed options, exterior and interior color, engine number and transmission number, production completion date (Birth Date) if available and manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) if available.

Order form is below.

Cert_of_Authen_Form.pdf

Thanks Loren...

When do you sleep?

Anyone know if i can get a Sticker for under the front hood with the Options listed?

Thx

I like all data.

http://www.alldata.com

For less than $30, you even get the TSB's, parts diagrams, labor costs...

Not really my idea...But anyone know someone or a friend of someone that can make a computer mouse in the shape of a boxster or 911?

I think it would be a great christmas present idea. I know my wife would like one of her BMW 330CIC. But forget that....

Just finished polishing the car all day. Of course i went inside to get a cold drink and found a rain cloud above. Just a little damp....Got to be more carefull. Got the Porter Cable polisher from Sonus. Fathers day special, great deal, works great. I had the Mothers 1,2,3 step polishing system so that is what i used. The sonus website is the bomb. Great work there!

with gas reaching $4.00/gallon, i'm desperately in search for a solution..

come to England where we can sell you gas - we call it petrol, for what would be to you 9 dollars a gallon - mind you our gallons are a bit bigger than yours.

We also have less warranty, higher servicing costs, higher purchasing costs, road fund licence etc etc

Yes but we have George W. and that is not a good thing!

Any recent work (i.e spark plugs, etc.)?

Three things come to mind:

1) Air? If it turns over i doubt you have an air restriction problem.

2) Fuel? Fuel pump/filter/injectors/low gas/ice?--far fetched but ntl.

3) Spark? As loren said...check for spark. How is your battery? 12-14v? Started grounded? Electrical fault stealing power?

Nobody said you NEED it. I just happened to see one for sale for a good price so I got it and I think it looks nice on the car.

Like carbon fibre interior trims, nobody needs them but they look good anyway.

I don't see why people have grudges against additional bracings. I think the more bracings the merrier. ;)

Don't listen to them. I think it looks great.

Now get a paintbrush out, dip it in some car wash soap and get cleaning. Can't show off a new strut bar and have people

see dirt.

When did you get the car? What year is it? What else have you done?

thanks for your help ,i appreciate it

so if i can unplug the maf and the car will drive normally ,why dont i just do that instead of buying a new one

Cause gas is at $3.17/gallon.

And when your car gets up to operating temperature it won't be operating properly.

The MAF measures the quality of air, maybe quality isn't the right word but it measures

the temp/density/weight of the air and sends it to the computer. The computer then can

determine how much fuel to mix into the air. Until we get direct injection in Porsches

the mixture is taken place in the intake manifold and then down to the intake valve.

If the mixture is not right you may burn up your catalitic converter. Too little fuel.

So spend the $220. Cause you don't want to be buying a new exhaust.

Not only that, they are friggin heavy. Unsprung weight is everything, go and add huge amounts of weight to your wheel and tire setup (19" wow) and it will be like somebody just sucked 20hp out of your car.

Even if the weight is the same as your 17" the 19" are larger and thus pushing the weight out farther away from the center of the wheel taking more inertia to turn. Even at the same weight the car will be slower.

From a performance standpoint fit the smallest wheel you can (within reason) but one also large enough for visual appeal. On a boxster that magical number seems to be around 17" as you really can't readily get a 16" tire thats 265 in the rear. When you can find them they are super expensive. If you have to go larger than 17" then go to an 18" which even at that will slow the car down.

Jim, no logic in your assertion, the wheel diameter with tyre is the same no matter what the rim size as the aspect ratio of the tyre reduces, this also affects speedometer readings.

Weight difference would be so negligable no one could measure a difference, of course you could also claim driving at night the car is slower as there is a greater load on the alternator powering the lights, or having just had a meal the return journey takes longer - sure there are differences but not worthwhile differences, I would also guess the extra alloy to make a 19 inch rim in weight is less than the reduced tyre aspect ratio, well perhaps a few gramms.

http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculato...p?action=submit

Too bad they don't give the weights for the wheel combo's.

Anyway i am going to go with 17" being the lightest of all. I can't remember off the top of my head the equation for calculating the weight of something spinning but i am sure it is more then negligable. Anyway remember back to when Porsche had the brake calipers on the front of the rotor? I am talking about the front brake systems. Then they moved them behind the rotor. Why? Cause having that extra weight behind brings the balance of the car closer to the center. Less weight in front of the front wheels the better and opposite for the rear.

its a 2000 porsche boxter

how do i find out if its electric acceleration or not

can i drive in default mode,will it drive normal

will the 0bd scanner tell me if the maf is not working

MY2000+ are e-Gas (electronic acceleration), so yours is e-Gas.

yes, you can drive in default mode. it will drive normally. it may act strange on first startup as it adapts engine settings. this should clear up in a few seconds if it even happens at all, and should be fine for all subsequent starts.

no, an OBDII reader will not tell you if the MAF is not working (unless there is a specific code that means 'MAF not working' - but i don't think there is.)

is your Check Engine Light on or has it ever been on? if not, i don't think you'd have any codes to read.

a dealer or someone with a PST2 (Porsche System Tester) could diagnose the MAF by looking at the MAF parameters (voltage, etc.)

there is also a way to test the MAF yourself with a multi-meter. i'll see if i can find the instructions.

but for now, disconnect the MAF wiring, remove the neg battery cable for a few minutes (this will reset the engine controller) - (have your radio code if your radio needs one - for a 2000 i think you do), then reconnect the neg battery cable and start the car. see what happens...

i had a bad MAF and eventually the car sputtered to a stall. i disconnected the MAF (and reset the engine controller) and the car never ran better in it's life. i was amazed.

some people find that cleaning their MAF can clear up problems and/or extend the life of the MAF. see this page and the section called 'Try the MAF first' to learn how to clean it. http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/checkeng...ssairflowsensor

if you do need a new MAF, do yourself a favor and save some money on it. a new MAF should cost around $250. and you could install it in 2 minutes. here's my 10 year-old installing mine! even a caveman could do it! :lol:

I had great luck with:

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.a...20Mass%20Sensor

fast shipping and new parts.

Looks great, I like the black on your base Boxster.

Yea Yea, I told my wife i was going to paint them Red then she said "But your car isn't an S".

She isn't the sharpest tool in the shed, so if she knew then....

So i painted them black.

hi ,i was wondering if anybody had any answers for cause my mechanic is a little stupid,

i went it to my car the other day and started the car ,started fine and i went to accelerate and got nothing,i towed it to a mechanic

i guess a few hours later my mechanic started it and it was ok,he said he drove it in the garage

the rpm gage moved a couple of cm,i have a manual 5 speed,anyways i called around and a couple of guys think it's the MAF SENSOR

and also i dont know if i have electric acceleration or not

i need help asap

thanks

please email me at tino007@shaw.ca

If you unplug the MAF you should still be able to drive the car.

Try this then move on...