seafeye

Just finished painting mine. Took off the calipers and cleaned and taped them off before paint. Cleaning took 90% of the time. Could be the Sam Adams slowing me down or just old age. Anyway all went well except dinged the drivers front caliper putting the wheel on. Dumb me!

I haven't seen one break into small bits yet - but I won't say it can't happen.

I would be more concerned with hitting myself in the face when I pull one straight out :lol: (please don't ask how I know) ;)

Well my garage is not kid friendly if you know what i mean!

Damm %^*&%&$ Porsche Crap &%&$#&$^#

do you mean for the spark plug tubes?

Go buy yourself a snap-ring pliers. You'll need them sometime if you keep working on cars, and they're cheaper than the Porsche tool.

Alternatively, you can use an allen key to remove the tubes. Find an allen key whose small end will snugly wedge into the tube, and use a locking pliers to pull out the tube. Either method works very easily. And cheaply.

Thanks for the idea's. I willl try the allen key. Keep fingers crossed i don't break the tubes.

If you break the tubes, no big deal. You're replacing them, remember?

Its all the broken bits floating around that i am concerned about!

do you mean for the spark plug tubes?

Go buy yourself a snap-ring pliers. You'll need them sometime if you keep working on cars, and they're cheaper than the Porsche tool.

Alternatively, you can use an allen key to remove the tubes. Find an allen key whose small end will snugly wedge into the tube, and use a locking pliers to pull out the tube. Either method works very easily. And cheaply.

Thanks for the idea's. I willl try the allen key. Keep fingers crossed i don't break the tubes.

Don't know about your tires, but I too, have the infamous vibration that occurrs between 3-3500 RPMs. My money is on the motor mount. I'll probably have mine replaced under my extended warranty.

No tool is needed to remove your spark plug tubes. I simply inserted my thumb and pressed it against the inner wall and pulled. Every one came right out wihtout the need of any special tool. There are two 'O' rings per tube and both had flat spots along their entire circumference which I suspected was the cause of my oil leaks. The manual also calls for a special tool for inserting new tubes, but again, none is really necessary. I was able to exert more than enough force to pop them back into place.

Good luck,

Jeff

Had a Porsche mecanic to testdrive my car to day as I have done everything to get rid of this vibration around 3200 rpm and he just told me to sell the car or learn to live with it....

It's because of material mixture in the engine (steel and aluminum)I did not understand everything he said but it was something about the steel crankcase between aluminum cylinders that causes the vibration.

Although I still beleive I can fix this with a lightweight flywheel.

So can you actually see if the motor mount is crap without taking it out of the car?

I have had all wheels balanced so i doubt that they are the problem. I do have the wheel bearings on a shelf at home, i guess i just have to get the courage and time to do the job. I guess while the car is on jacks i can see the mount....Stay tuned.

the vibration between 70 and 84 MPH is usually a wheel (or wheels) out-of-balance. since you changed your tires, i assume that they were balanced. it is possible however, that one of the wheels wasn't balanced properly, or maybe even lost a wheel weight.

you might find a shop with a Hunter balancing machine, take it there, and get your wheels balanced again. it will probably cost you $25 per wheel, but then you can rule out the wheels if the vibration is still present.

here's a site where you can locate a Hunter machine. http://www.gsp9700.com/

i have no idea about the other stuff. sorry...

Yes i will check the wheels again. When i bought a replacement wheel i went to a high performance shop that had the high speed balancer. They told me that the wheel and tire were well balanced. So that is why i am leaning towards the wheel bearing.

Does anyone know the proceedure for narowing down a vibration problem?

Vibration starts at around 70mph and really noticable around 84mph.

Put on new tires hoping that would help. (Didn't)

Replaced a rim because one was borderline round. That didn't change much either.

Have bought some wheel bearings but haven't changed them yet. If someone can post

a picture of the tool needed to remove the bearing without removing the hub that would

be great.

If i change the wheel bearings and still nothing then what next?

Second problem:

When i lift off the clutch to change gears i get a clunk. Same if i push the gas

pedal quickly off and on. Ideas? Comes from behind the seats. Ie: engine area

Motor Mount or Clutch?

Third:

Can someone post a link as to where i can buy the tool to remove a leaky oil tube?

Thx

Anyone know where i can purchase a tool to remove the oil tubes on a 1999 2.5l?

Attempted to use the screwdriver handle but that didn't work....

Thx

I see now. Didn't get a good look at your runners from the previous pic. I knew it was a custom sheet metal intake box and figured reverse cowl induction. I still don't like the flat surfaces at the bottom. Possible standing waves in the box. You are creating a ventouri effect now which is pretty good. As you already know, a little intake turbulence is good because it improves air/fuel mixture. Standing waves off the bottom of the box work against you.

If i could add my .02c, In regards to the exhaust i belive that porsche has left much room for improvement with the stock system.

Being the worlds most profitable car company they have to make money somewhere. And they do it with the simple exhaust headers

on the boxster. The flat six does make exhaust performance limited because of how difficult it is to match up the oposite cylinder

for proper air flow out the tubes, but they could have made the stock system better by just making all the tubes the same length.

Of course this would be more time consuming and eat the profits. I also believe the system is designed to reduce horsepower. Look

at every one of Porsche's race car headers. The tubes are all the exact length. This is just too difficult to do on a production car.

Or too expensive. Your choice.

I have a leaky spark plug tube. I have the new tubes and new o-rings (bought all six just so I had them on hand) and am planning to do this without removing the valve cover. Will a significant quantity of engine oil leak out when this is done? If so, I'll just perform an oil change at the same time since I'm almost due.

Thanks,

John V

Just changed my plugs yesterday. Had a oil over the spark plug socket as well. Lucky for me it was just one cylinder. #1 i think.

Good news is the oil was very clean! Guess i will be doing the same thing. Can't be much help for you though. I will wait here

as well.

Whats the deal with the leather in the 1997 models, its always in such poor condition

Ya and 1999 911's are horrible too.

Don't you just wonder when the deal has to be done.... Pressure on...buy today or gone tomorrow.

Better to wait for that extra clean one, i think.

You don't need to spray enzyme cleaner everywhere but you do need to find "the spot" and soak "the spot" thoroughly

-Topless

ROFL, of course I do that, not the entire top! Although I am tempted. It is just in a very difficult spot to get to!

I have determined that the cat is my neighbor's "outside cat". :-\ You think I can convince the neighbor to buy me a new top? They will probably request DNA evidence!

cats like to pee on car covers, too. ask me how i know!

- Chris_in_NH -

I have to ask how you know? please share in my misery!!!!

There are some spot removers that will keep animals off for good. They just don't like the smell.

Go to a Pet store and ask them what they have to keep the cats off. There is plenty of stuff out there.

For now just put some tin foil on the top of the car. It will scare the cat silly if they step on it and they

won't return to try it again.

Why was the engine replaced, and what during what year? Thank you.

I have no idea. I bought the car from a small dealer here in Daytona Beach. He never mentioned the engine change at all. I found out about it after flipping through the maint log. Did a carfax and showed 3 owners. One for 5 years the others for short periods. Both commercial. I expect as a company car. I know the front hood has been replaced but once again carfax showed nothing. I live in Daytona but work in Charlotte so waiting for the dealer to pull the records for me. When i find out what happened i will post it.

Cheers

White is the color of the new style plastic joints.

That is a rubber bushing. I cannot tell if it has split or just become displaced. It is there so you do not get rattles. Might just leave it alone.

Sure ruin my night.....I thought i was lucky with the red ones!

I don't get any rattles from the top but when it goes up and down it appears to stutter. I put some grease on the track so i will see what that does.

Read the messages in the top section and then look to see if you have the new style reinforced cables. If you have the old style smooth cables then make sure enough of the cable is sticking out. See if you have red or white plastic joints.

If you have the service history review it to determine if top work has already been done. I have no numbers, but since top problems were/are so common on the 1997-1999 many have failed long ago and the improved parts put in. If that is your case then there is nothing to worry about.

Thanks i appreciate your effort. Cheers..

Here is a picture of what i found...I do have RED cable connectors so that is a good thing.

But i did find a rubber gasket/washer/whatchamacallit and it looked broken.

Here is the piece. Is it as easy to change as it looks? Just undo the bolt and re and re?

Thanks again

Any maint that i can do so i avoid top operation problems?

The top breaking scares me more than the IRS...well almost!

Just looking for the newest part number for the front and rear wheel bearings for a 1999 Boxster.

If someone could help me out that would be great.

Also i bought my car used and it had a replacement motor put in from the dealer. I only know this because in the service book it has a stamp from the dealership and says "Motor Replaced".

It was done by Porsche in Charlotte N.C. I don't live anywhere near there...Since this was done in 2003, would they have replaced it with a 2.5l? Just wondering because i am living in Florida and it seems to run Hot.

Cheers

Where in Florida are you? I ordered the parts from Sunset and had the key cut and programed at Champion Porsche in Pompano Beach.

Daytona Beach.

I went to Orlando and got the oil filter, fuel filter etc... They gave me a good price. Or so i think.

I could go to Brumos in Jacksonville but the drive is horrible. Police everywhere.

Pompano Beach is i think a 3 hour drive. I will mapquest it.

Just did it.... 223 miles.....just under 2 hours driving i guess! Heh heh

Thanks for all the reply's.

Pretty funny but true. To save some money, buy the remote and key blank separate (from Sunset). Have your local dealer program the remote and cut the blank. Then you hand over your arm and leg to the dealer as payment. Goood Luck!

I am beginning to believe you guys. Went to the Dealership who usually gives me great prices...and they tell me that the key can only be cut in two places in the USA.

Atlanta and somewhere else. But not here. Just the valet key was almost $200. So much for taking my wife out for dinner!

Anyone know a place where i can get a reasonable price for a replacement key?

Would like a remote and key not just the valet one.

Thx

:lightbulb:

Hey,

I have a Porsche 2.7 Boxster 2001 equipped with Becker CDR 22 audio system. As I am getting tired of having a gazillion cds in the car I would like to connect my i-pod and I would appreciate it if you could tell me what my options are.

I asked Porsche in Greece and they quoted a rediculous price of 1,000 euro. I also checked with shops specializing in stereo equipment for cars and they gave me a price of about 250-400 euro which sounds more reasonable.

Where is the i-pod connected? Is there a special case/holder which is mount on the central console as a docking station for the i-pod (something similar to the docking station for a mobile phone) or is the i-pod free standing somewhere in the car? Also how do I operate the i-pod? Do I have access thru the Becker system or do I access its functions directly from the -pod?

Thanks for the help,

Ibro

Do a search here and you will find many ways to do it yourself.

If you are real crafty you can do it for as little as $2.

Find an RCA cable with the Phono plug and cut off the RCA ends. Solder the Copper wires together, strip and put on some small connectors and connect them to the back of the stereo. Of course you will need the stereo removal tools. It took me about 1 hour to have mine hooked up and working great. Don't forget to get your radio code first if you don't have it. Here is an attachment for the 220 i don't know if this is exactly the same connections but like i said do a search and you can get it done for less then a quart of oil!

Phone__or_Aux_1_audio_input_directions.pdf

Is the purge fan running or not?

If not then check the fuse if so you likely have a bad sensor in the tank or a bad temp sensor.

I definetely hear a fan in the rear of the car. Is there only one fan in the rear? Is this "purge" fan the "compartment" fan?

I did check all my fuses and they were okay,.... but I did n ot check my relays... not sure if anything is there.

I am quickly realizing this will be something my mechanic will need to look into at this point.

Thanks again for the response.

I would also look into www.alldata.com i find this a great website. And for only $30 bucks or so you get all the

repair info for your particular car. Renntech is great but in combination you shouldn't have any problem

fixing anything. Along with this web site: http://dcauto.gotdns.com/catalog/index.php?mode=all

and you should be well on your way.

Good Luck

BTW i think $16k for a used Porsche that runs is a great deal. My first 911 i had to sink well over $20k just to get

the thing road worthy. Then i had an interior to worry about. Go to www.chevy.com and you will spend just

$15k nowadays on a new cavalier. YUCK

I talked to somebody who said that it was due to the intake. He replaced w/ stock intake and CEL never returned. Just a thought.

Just got a New MAF for my 99 Boxster.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.a...20Mass%20Sensor

Great price, free shipping, Great experience.

But my gas milage just went down....I love the "New Power", The car runs like brand new.

I had the codes :P1128 and P1130. Now nothing.

Unless the Actron has changed it can not turn off air bag codes.

Where are you located? Perhaps someone close has tool to clear it for you.

Yeaaaa, just got back from Discount Auto Parts.....So i found out for myself

that the Actron will not do it. But there is some good news....They have

Mobil 0w40 for $.50 off a quart. So it is $5.48 a quart.

That is cheap for here....Daytona Beach Florida.

Closest Porsche Dealership is in Orlando or Brumos in Jacksonville.

If someone have a computer please write...

Just fixed my horn. Thanks to this board. But....

Fixed the horn now the airbag light is on.

Does this have to be reset with an OBDII computer?

You left the key in the ignition didn't you? ;)

When you put the key in the ignition switch it activated the air bag circuit (without turning it).

You will need the Durametric Software, a PST2 or PIWIS tester to turn the air bag light off.

Yes i did have the key in the ignition only to be able to turn the steering wheel to get at the bolts.

I did have the battery disconnected. (Safety First)

So when i go to Discount Auto Parts they have an Actron computer that i plug in to look at codes.

Is this one of the above that you were talking about?