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seafeye

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Posts posted by seafeye

  1. Wonder if the aftermarket cap damaged the flange?

    Did you ever check to see what the laws in your state are in regards to a sale from a car dealer (even sleezy used car dealers apply in NJ) where it wouldn't pass emissions? I suspect those lows are rather standard nationwide (assuming you're in the USA..)

    I called the dealer and told him of my troubles. I guess he is going to bed tonight to ponder on doing what's right or not and let me know tomorrow. I believe him in that he most likely had no idea that there was a leak. What dealership has cars sitting on the lot with a full tank of gas? Maybe it was the guy who traded in the car who knew about the leak and dumped it. Florida doesn't have emissions check so i guess he gets away there. Now selling a "Family" car that leaks gas knowingly? All i can say is that Karma is a *****.

    The flange sits on top of the tank. On the drivers side it has a filter in it. So i don't think the cap had anything to do with it unless it pressurized the tank to the point of cracking the weakest part. I've seen weirder things...

  2. First post with my new car. (SUV) My nephew calls it a SOB.

    I picked up a really clean 2004 Cayenne S. Black/Black Paint is fantastic, so is interior.

    Clean carfax and only 66000mls. All manuals, keys etc... Thats the good.

    The bad is that after i picked up the car in Tampa i drove it to Daytona for a couple of

    days of R and R on the beach. I got to Daytona and it wouldn't start. Dead Battery.

    Ok So i replaced the battery. Not a big deal. The dealer i bought the car from was

    supposed to put a full tank of gas in the car. He gave me 3/4. So i drove it to almost

    empty. When i filled up the car it started to leak all over the ground. I thought i may

    h ave put too much gas in it. (21 gallons it took).

    Then after driving an additional 70 miles i parked the car and gas was still

    dripping out. I see in the warrenty book that the "emissions" covers the fuel tank

    gaskets seals etc... for 8 years. THat 8 years is up in a week.

    Anyway the long and the short is that I am wondering if this is a common problem?

    Solutions? And will the dealership even honor the warrenty?

    BTW i put 1000mls on the car and it's great. I miss the boxster but right now this

    is the right vehicle for me.

  3. Went to my insurance company today to show them. They told me to get an estimate. $1300.

    This will fix the bumper/paint and the hood. I have $500 deductable. If under $1800 it won't affect

    my insurance premiums. Then if they can prove the other guy was at fault i will not have to pay

    deductable. But that is going to be hard to do.

    I will pay the $500 for the work. It's worth that to me.

  4. Parked on the street today. Had a little honda in front of me then when i get back i see this mamoth of a truck. And scratches on my bumper and hood of car.

    I left a note with my phone number on his windshield and left my car there for a while. He called me but i didn't make it back in time to meet up with him.

    Anyway he swears up and down that he didn't hit my car and that he would have noticed plus has back up warning indicator. There was traces of paint

    on some bolts under his granny rack but when i spoke to him on the phone he said that he didn't see anything at all. What would you do?

    IMG_0073.jpg

    IMG_0072.jpg

    IMG_0071.jpg

    IMG_0069.jpg

  5. This dealership isn't playing fair.

    $2500 for a car without a motor and Trans working is very cheap. VERY VERY CHEAP.

    If in fact it would cost $18k for the repairs (Which it wouldn't) the dealership would have over $20k into it.

    There is no way that they could sell the car and make a profit. At most the car is worth $15....

    Please find an independent shop and do your own cost search.

    A 3.2L engine from a Boxster S can be had for $5k. Figure $3-$4k for the labor. At most.

    Then you have a car with a newer motor and a bit more power. And most likely worth more.

    This is what the dealership has in mind.

    Or if you want to make some money....start taking the car apart and selling it bit by bit.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-986-Boxster-Rebuilt-Motor-Engine-3-2-S-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2307b89d8dQQitemZ150453394829QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-Porsche-Boxster-986-Engine-Motor-2-7-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2306b6f474QQitemZ150436508788QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

  6. Boxster S 3.2, 2001, 37K miles

    Some guidance and previous experience would be welcome.

    I just paid £600 for a minor service at Porsche East London. As part of their "Visual Health Checks" they have identified approx £5,000 worth work to be done ranging from cosmetic to major. Highlights are:

    • slight oil leak from rear of engine (£1230)

    • ignition coil cracks (£360)
    • slight clicking from front suspension top mounts (£660)
    • front brake pad and discs worn (£780)
    • rear discs corroded and worn as well as pads (£690)
    • catalytic heat shields loose and corroded (£136)
    • and so on

    The point being - this is all clearly expensive so I would like some feedback on my options.

    • what work can I do myself (novice so would need a step by step guide)?
    • 2nd opinion from a non-porsche dealer (makes logical sense - but strategy would be helpful)
    • go the whole hog and fork out for the major/critical works (porsche have promised a 10% discount - which is pretty poor considering)
    • sell the car and buy something cheaper to run (depressing thought but has crossed my mind nevetheless)

    Many thanks in advance

    S

    • slight oil leak from rear of engine (£1230)....Clean off engine...watch for exactly where leak is coming from. Could be spark plug tubes. Cheap. Or RMS expensive

    • ignition coil cracks (£360) .....Go to sponsor of this site...buy one for $50 or buy a set for $250. You can easily install them yourself. Buy a good jack and jack stands. $150
    • slight clicking from front suspension top mounts (£660) ......Could be ball joints....I would put my money there. Hold out replacing unless it's killing you.
    • front brake pad and discs worn (£780) ............sponsor of this site....again.....buy a replacement set for $450....do it yourself with the jack and stands. Easy to do.
    • rear discs corroded and worn as well as pads (£690) .....$450 above will do rears as well.
    • catalytic heat shields loose and corroded (£136)..........JB weld? Mechanics are so used to replacing parts rather than fixing them. Try fix first. Could just need a nut and bolt.
    • porscheatcost@sunsetimports.com

  7. I'm happy to inform you that I was right. The door lock mechanism for 97 boxster and 00 01 Passat are the same. Just finished the installation and I saved $$$$. I was able to pick up a used one for $45 bucks. If you want it new it's 150 from VW. any questions on the Tumbler feel free to ask.

    Take a look at the sponsor of this website first. Usually you can buy the part new for not very much more than used.

    porscheatcost@sunsetimports.com

    If you are bent on having a used part, try this:

    http://car-part.com/

  8. There is a bar code unique to each key/transmitter that has to be scanned to program the key to the imobilizer. Make sure that any key purchased anywhere comes with the necessary bar code documentation.

    This thread is a little old (six years) so pricing might be a little off. But otherwise, it is good information on the ins and outs of key purchasing.

    http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?6,7615...1531#msg-761531

    Bill

    Finally got around to replacing the broken electronic portion of my key.

    The dealer used the old metal key and slid it into a new head. Programmed it and i was back in the race.

    $330.

    OUCH!

  9. 2003 Boxster S.

    I am not able to identify what some of the tools are for in the tool kit that comes with the spare tire. There is the tool for removing the lug nuts, a tow hook, but there are some tools that I have no idea what they are for.

    One tool looks like an 8mm hex wrench which I assumed would be used for the oil drain plug, but when I tried to fit it into a spare drain plug that I have it would not fit.

    Another tool is about 8 inches long and has a threaded end on it. It is probably about 1/2 inch in diameter.

    I will try to post a picture.

    You will need the smaller hex nut to unlock the headlights to change a bulb. It's in the owners manual. If you don't have one, this site has a 2003 that you can download.

    The long tool that is 8 inches long goes into the wheel when you are taking it off. It acts like a guide for removal and replacement of the wheel and tire. So you don't mark up your calipers.

    post-16847-1265382835_thumb.jpg

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