seafeye

Hey all....

If you're like me, your constantly trying to save a buck here and there while still getting the job done. I need to replace one of my wheel bearings and was minutes away from buying the SIR tool when I stumbled upon this thread. Seems lots of guys have had great success! I'll be giving it a shot this next weekend.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....r+wheel+bearing

where were you six months ago?

I would buy a couple of the rods, it looks like it will bend. Also you will need a way to pull the hub out.

I have a 2001 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic,

How do you tell the difference between a bad rear wheel bearing and a bad rear hub? Also, how can I determine which side?

This evening I jacked the car up and tried to shake the wheels and neither would move......

I have been hearing the medium level "roar" a little while now, I assumed it was because of the balding Kuhmo's I had on the car but when I picked the car up from the tire shop, my tire guy said that when he test drove the car he hear the noise and he thinks its a bad wheel bearing (possibly driver side but he couldn't really determine which side it was) He then said it might be a bad rear hub.

Not quite sure how a hub can be bad. Here is a picture...Maybe out of round? Bent?

Could it be the parking brake pads making the noise?

How many miles on the car? over 50k and i think the bearings will need to be done regardless.

Go to another shop. That is way out of line

Phillipj

Sounds like some fun diy repairs to make...

For the sway bars...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EIBACH-Anti...Q2em118Q2el1247

Ignition swith has been covered many times and easy 10min fix...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-996...tem370016879232

Steering control arm...Should be somewhat simple fix...

http://www.sunsetimports.com/porscheatcost.php

I remember a great quote...:"Give someone fish you feed them for lunch....Teach them to fish and you feed them for life"

Do it yourself and save $$$

Is there any downside to the common Boxster hack that turns on the headlights when you turn on the car? The hack uses simple fuse box jumpers

From what i understand, Canada has the daytime lights law, maybe you could just get the relay from a Canadian dealer.

for a 2.5 the needle should be straight up for normal highway driving. In stop and go traffic, the needle will move into the 0. After the half way point of the 0, the fans should turn on and work its way back down. In stop and go I've had my need on the far right of the 0. Only under heavy track use does the needle move past the 0.

the line between 180 and 250 is supposed to represent 220. Anyway years back 250 was too hot. Now with the thinner oils the temp can get closer to that number without the oil breaking down.

250 is still really really hot but i think that if you are closer to 220 you really don't have anything to worry about. Just make sure all your fans are working and that you have cleaned out your radiators.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;hl=radiator

Hi - I'm looking into making my '99 2.5 Boxster into an SCCA ITR race car and really am curious about the verified performance increases a built exhuast makes. Not worried about how much $$ - my concern is that most of the ads are BS and I could spend $3K to make 10HP. I'd take that money and buy new tires every race and be quicker or buy some really top line shocks - JRZ or Motons.

Thanks

PS - if there is a Boxster race thread please send me there :-) Newb on this site

I put the stainless steel headers on my 2.5 and i don't notice any difference at all. Except that i hear a rattle in the exhaust.

I believe money would be better spent on lightening the car. If you want you could do some internal mods to the engine but

i think the 2.5 is really tapped out. Good Luck Would the rules allow you to Twin Turbo the car?

http://www.lnengineering.com/boxster.html

http://www.imagineauto.com/996TTbuild.htm

Thanks for the info.

Good stuff!!

:clapping:

Just don't be cheap...and spring for the proper color script...

I'm driving my car all winter. The Boxster is galvanized and has a 10-year rust warranty, so I'm not worried.

I still wash it, but I'll take care of the salt in April. Thanks for the heads up, maybe I'll take the front bumper off.

I don't know if that 10 year warrenty is any good. Lots of porsches had rust on the door jams where the mechanism locked. Porsche did nothing. I think there was an article in Excellence Mag about a year ago. Maybe the Sept edition has it!

Make sure all the spark plugs are tight, it will a chirp from combustion gasses and get a second opinion

unbelievable! I found this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13697 and the sound in that video is exactly what mine sounds like! same side, too!

you guys have saved me so much agony, I felt compelled to donate to the site

:renntech:

Looks like it's time to find a new mechanic. <_<

My wife had a nail in her tire once....Once the tire people took it out she said..."I knew my brakes felt weird"....

Yes i have to live the rest of my life with this girl....

I am doing my final re-assembly and the sheet metal brace does not seem to be lining up correctly. Seems like I have less than 1/8 of an inch more width than the holes in the brace will allow. Its not much, but more than a wiggle will cover.

Is there a trick to this?

Do I just need to get a pry bar or strap on the supsension to pull it back in line to install the brace?

Is this a bad sign that there appears to be about a 1/8 of an inch of mis-alignment between the right and left subframes?

Please don't tell me that I need to take the muffler and cat pipes off AGAIN!

thanks!

Sorry about the extra "p" in the title. Not sure how to edit titles of threads...

Ya, mine seemed so tight that i thought that Porsche uses the sheet metal as some sort of suspension support.

What worked for me was to line up the holes at the front (Closest to the front of the car), And don't push it home just yet.

Have it sit just so the bolts just show through. Maybe one thread to get one nut on.

Then go to the back of the car and with a pry bar and get the other bollts through.

Get a rubber/plastic hammer and tap the sheet metal home.

Don't know why it is sooooo tight but that is why i guess i don't design cars...

I'm looking to purchase a set of wheels & tires for winter use. Came across the attached 17" 993 Cup wheels w/Bridgestone snow tires. Rims sizes are 9J x 17H2 and 7 1/2J x 17H2, tires are 205-50 and 255-40.

Will they fit my '02 Boxster S?

Thanks,

Gary

NJ

Gary, look at my pics. I am running those. They fit without problem.

http://home.alphalink.com.au/~flying/images/side%20on.jpg

Before you fit them tho, you may want to weigh them on a bathroom scale and see how heavy they are. 993 wheels are supposedly light weight. Mass of wheels make a big difference to performance, so this data could be useful for future upgrades.

Anyone care to say if these will fit a 99 boxster?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BridgeStone...sspagenameZWDVW

Yes that is what Iam talking about. Or, if there are eccentric's for the lower control arm where it bolts to the chasis, i can just install those to get the camber in the front into spec.

LOL maybe cuz I dont understand what u r talking about? r u talking about this,how u planning on have it elongated?

lol i see these pictures but i dont know what you are trying to tell me.

Maybe these guys can modify the arms....

http://www.aurorabearing.com/

On the air cooled engines they use timeserts, because helicoils can pull out. I have seen engines with the heads off at the dealership, but I never asked if they had one with a pulled out head bolt.

I do not know any US shops rebuilding the M96 engine. There are several UK shops that do.

The one that comes to mind is Hartech (Barry Hart). http://www.hartech.org/index.html Hartech himself is on the UK board Pistonheads. Here is a link to one of his messages if you want to find him. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.a...=0&t=471313

Pelican has an engine rebuilding forum, but it is air cooled. You could also ask there but I doubt if they have experience with water cooled engines. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/forumdisplay.php?f=257

Autofarm is another UK shop. http://www.autofarm.co.uk/engines/water_cooled

Maybe these guys can help...

http://www.imagineauto.com/996TTbuild.htm

http://www.imagineauto.com/index3.htm

Oh and one more....

http://www.lnengineering.com/boxster.html

200 knots...

Going into Memphis last week. Our airplane was hit hard....

Loren i know it isn't Porsche related but the speed was....

Wow, what the "flock" happened to your airplane. Looks like it got really flocked up. Er... sorry for the fowl language.

The windshield survived though. Maybe we just need to make the Boxster windshields out of the same material.

The glass is pretty thick so it isn't that clear. But as you can tell they are tough. We have has some crack lately, i think because we changed our proceedures recently, we turn the windshield heat off when parked at the gate, to keep the cockpit cooler. Then if not given sufficient time to heat up and we go flying...say to 30,000 feet it cracks because of the cold air. Days like this and you begin to wonder why we work for such a small paycheck!

Just wrap the intake or intercooler with Dry Ice for some extra cold air.

Google Dry Ice and you will be very surprised how many people are using it.

Gee, if you wanted to kill a turkey, you should have used a 12 gauge, not a Porsche! :P

200 knots...

Going into Memphis last week. Our airplane was hit hard....

Loren i know it isn't Porsche related but the speed was....

Thanks for the write-ups!

How long did it take you for each bearing? (esp. the part from rotor off to rotor back on.)

Thanks again!

Toby

First one took almost 8 or 9 hrs. I couldn't figure out how to get the axel out of the wheel carrier. Then i hit it with a hammer and loosened it. Last resort worked.

The other side took only 2.5hrs start to finish. Thats including taking pictures. And working by myself. Certainly having 2 people would make things go easier.

I have deleted your redundant post in the 993 section (please re-read the Board Rules/Guidelines about cross-posting).

993.362.114.00 are 7J x 16 ET 55 mm

993.362.118.01 are 9J x16 ET 70mm

Boxster 16 wheels are spec'ed by Porsche as:

6J x 16 ET 50 mm

7J x 16 ET 40 mm

So you might get the fronts to fit but the rears likely will have too much wrong offset.

Does that go for the 17's as well?

Found these on Ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Cup...sspagenameZWDVW

@ seafeye

Look at your wheel rims for deformations.

Just got back from getting the wheels balanced.

Drives a bit better but still have the vibration.

The back left wheel is slightly egg shaped. Don't know how that happened, but it isn't completly round.

So back to ebay to find a replacement....

Alan, wouldn't the rev-limiter cut-off the fuel at redline? Which is about 7,200 RPM. Should not be speed related but rather RPM dependent.

As for the axel ratios, that should be listed in either your owners manual, near the back, or the 2005 sales brochure.

Thanks for the quick reply. Traditionally rev limiters kick in a few hundred rpm above redline. also I cannot find axle ratios in the 2008 sales brochure and do not have an owners manual.

Regards,

Alan

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...&showcat=15

I didn't see the 2005 there but i there is a 2006 and 7.

Page 267

First couple of pics is my wife spinning a caymen...Instructor had fun!

Tell me when to stop...

I don't know which ones are real or fake, but the third one down is making me drool! That is good looking automobile!

Can't post really hi res pics but here are more of the same car...

Real or Fake?

BTW these were all taken at the Rennsport Reunion III. This past weekend.

PLEASE HELP. Before anyone flames, I have researched both this site and other boxster sites about this, so please don't respond with, "Do a search, it's been discussed."

I am planning on installing an after market exhaust. I own a 98 box, so it appears that removing the bumper is highly suggested and makes it a lot easier. I think I can get the bumper off, BUT, how about the exhaust itself? There's plenty of information on removing the bumper, but how do I take the stock exhaust off!? How many bolts are there, and what special tools am I going to need if any? If this is a serious pain in the A$$ to do, should I just pay my local porsche mechanic to do it?

Please, if anyone has done this on an early model boxster, please give me any information. I really appreciate any help from you guys. Thanks in advance.

First what year car do you have?

I have attached two pictures of the different exhaust.

Should be straight forward.

1) Undo the wiring for the oxygen sensors. 4 of them, just do the wiring clip, you can take them out later if you want to.

2) Undo the bolts after the exhaust headers. 3 on each side. Buy new ones. And new gaskets.

3) Undo the bolts on top of the muffler.

4) The whole system should now come down.

5) Take the headers off it you want to. Buy new gaskets and bolts. Buy some anti seize as well.