Wayne R. Dempsey

Bingo Richard, running "Sports Car Handover" on the PST-2 fixed the problem! Cool beans - a *lot* of expert people I talked to didn't have the answer to that one!

Thanks!

:)

-Wayne

They mostly use Torx, but in this case, I think they are Socket Head Cap (Allen) Screws.

It was a Torx on mine - just looked it up in PET, it looks like they changed the screw type somewhere around 2001 to a different style of screw. So, it looks like we're both right! :)

-Wayne

He also told me a new horn was $190 plus tax and labor.

THAT'S CRAZY! I sell these horns for something like $8 each - he's ripping you off. They are the same as some VW or Audi part. Easy to replace, here's a tech article on taking the bumper off: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/68-BODY-Front_Bumper_-_Wheel_Liner/68-BODY-Front_Bumper_-_Wheel_Liner.htm

Let me know if you have any questions...

-Wayne

Yes, you can swap out the 'S' for the non-S and vice versa, but 987 mufflers will not work on 986 cars without some effort and cutting. I've got an article where I show replacing a stock system with a 'S' muffler here: http://www.pelicanpa...UST-Muffler.htm

-Wayne

Thanks Wayne, Does the Dansk S muffler drone or resonate?

Bill

Nope, it's pretty solid. I didn't have any complaints about it, but then again, I didn't drive with it on very long before we swapped in the Fabspeed exhaust...

-Wayne

I think the airbag retaining frame is a pretty cheap replacement part too, if you want a new one. Here's a tech article I wrote on getting the steering wheel off (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/62-SUSPEN-Steering_Wheel/62-SUSPEN-Steering_Wheel.htm) - not covered in the linked DIY above...

-Wayne

If I had metal particles like waynes I would be very concerned indeed! The metal found in my filter was very small I liken it to very fine ground pepper or gold flakes you see in beach sand. I read in the Excelence article that it was not uncommon to find metal the size of fine ground pepper. I will probably order a magnetic plug and check out the filter on my next service. Since the vehicle was only serviced by the dealer I'm sure they stuck to the factory service interval of 12k miles. I will change my own at 3k with Castrol Syntec. Again my filter didn't look anything like Wayne's. Wish me luck!

It's pretty easy to drop the sump and look further (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/12-ENGINE-deep_sump/12-ENGINE-deep_sump.htm). I would do that if you're concerned...

-Wayne

A question for Wayne, any idea when Porsche started using the unchangable intermediate shaft bearing in rebuilt engines as noted in your article? My boxster is a '98 with an engine that was installed in late '03 after a slipped sleeve destroyed the original. The replacement was a "reworked" one from Porsche.

Greg

I believe it was about 2005 or 2006, so I would suspect your engine would have the old bearing in it. My new engine had the new bearing in it, I think it was rebuilt 2007 or 2008...

-Wayne

This is somewhat common with vacuum leaks on older cars. At cold temps, the hoses contract and seal fine. At warmer temps, they expand and create leaks. I would check for vacuum leaks, a smoke machine is very useful for that (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks.htm).

-Wayne

Try getting someone with a PST2 to reset the codes - the Durametric tool is handy, but no replacement for the real deal...

-Wayne

You can also order these (from Pelican if you'd like), part number 996-610-217-02-OEM. I just got one for my 2000 Boxster.

-Wayne

Here's an article I just published with all of the wiring information needed to perform this upgrade:

http://www.pelicanpa...OBC_upgrade.htm

-Wayne

WAYNE

I have attached three prong stalk.Have cut of switch and do not know which wires go where on grey switch ins cluster.Can you help. Wire colours are White\black-green-blue-grey-white.

Thanks; Swampy

Please be more specific on your question, I don't understand?

-Wayne

I've got the same problem with my 996, and I've been trying to fix it for a long time. I haven't tried the "Sports Car Handover" routine with the PST2, I will have to try that tomorrow.

-Wayne

There is a difference in hose sizing from the Boxster 'S' and the normal non-S cars. You need to "down-convert" your hoses to the smaller diameter size if you are installing the third radiator on a non-S car. I cover this completely in my tech article (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/31-WATER-Center_Radiator/31-WATER-Center_Radiator.htm) - the other tech articles available on the net don't cover this aspect for us non-S owners.

Hope this helps,

Wayne

There's a gazillion hoses to replace. I would inspect them and see if they are cracking before replacing them. Literally, there are like 20-30 hoses if you replace every single one. I have a full tech article on it here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/30-WATER-Hoses/30-WATER-Hoses.htm

Hope this helps,

Wayne

I'm not sure - BOSCH may have a different methodology for their part numbers. You are right, you need the 125.01 part number for your car.

-Wayne

Thanks a million to Loren for a very simple and clear instructions. The button is back in place now. I also found out that the screw-head needs a 5mm allen-key.

Cheers

It's actually a Torx bolt. Sometimes an Allen tool will work, but often it will strip it out if it's in there really tight.

-Wayne

Man, I'm the world's biggest promoter of DIY stuff, but this rear window is not something I would recommend touching unless you have really strong fingers, hours of time, and ton of patience! The rear window on the 3-Series was a bear, and that sucker simply zipped in! Sewing a window will be very difficult - the material is very thick and not easy to work with.

The alternative I recommend is the roof replacement with the glass rear window. You'll never have to replace your annoying plastic window ever again. Here's the link to the article I wrote about installing the top with the glass window: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/70-BODY-Convertible_Glass_Window/70-BODY-Convertible_Glass_Window.htm

Hope this helps,

Wayne

Thanks- I think you're right about the guy at the dealership- he saw a blonde chic and an oppotunity! =) I found another repair shop to do all of the repairs for less than $3000- water pump, clutch, bearing, and put the car back together. Boo for dishonest repair guys! This guy was going to charge me $3600 for the repairs BEFORE we realized that the bearing needed replacing!

I think you are being taken for a ride with this dealer... they probably know about the IMS bearing retrofit kit from LN Engineering and think they can get it cheap from you and fix it themselves. I have seen some low life mechanics try this before (at dealerships too!). I just had a new IMS bearing retrofit kit installed along with an RMS and new clutch for $1900 installed. I bought the clutch kit separately though so that was not part of the price. FYI

Hi surs. It does seem very suspect. If you want to get this guy fired too, you can let his boss know that he's offering to buy cars outside of the dealership - HUGE conflict of interest for everyone!!!

As for your bearing, I have a 13,000 140-photo article that explains everything that can go wrong with the bearing, and what is needed to fix it. Link: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm

If your car is located in Los Angeles, then I recommend you have it towed over to Callas Rennsport, and they won't screw you over like they sound like they are trying to do at this dealership.

Hope this helps,

Wayne

Why does a worn clutch disc cause a higher clutch pedal effort? As the disc wears thinner, the angle of the fingers in the diaphragm spring (in the pressure plate) changes. Some of the mechanical advantage in the system is lost, which brings the twin evils of less clamping force and greater pedal effort.

While that is true, the actual pressure plate springs begin to stretch and wear out too. That is why you can have a perfectly good clutch disc with a bad clutch, because the pressure plate is worn out. When performing a clutch replacement, you should change the disc, the pressure plate, and the throw-out bearing all at once because they all seem to wear at different, but similar intervals.

-Wayne

Yup, this was a standard broken tank on the backside. Very common and one of the more popular articles on our site (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/33-WATER-Coolant_Tank/33-WATER-Coolant_Tank.htm)

-Wayne

I had a crack in the "manifold" at the back of the tank, and I came up with a cheap, easy and effective solution. See photo 6 in my coolant tank replacement article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/33-WATER-Coolant_Tank/33-WATER-Coolant_Tank.htm

The leak you describe is definitely in the area of this manifold on the backside of the tank.

-Wayne

Yes, you can swap out the 'S' for the non-S and vice versa, but 987 mufflers will not work on 986 cars without some effort and cutting. I've got an article where I show replacing a stock system with a 'S' muffler here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/46-EXHAUST-Muffler/46-EXHAUST-Muffler.htm

-Wayne

I would be concerned about that amount of debris in the filter, especially as the bits are ferrous. First step would be to pull the sump and have a look. While the block and heads are alloy, there are several possible sources (rods, cams, crank, oil pump, and the IMS) for ferrous metal.

I agree. If there is that much stuff in the filter, there is probably more in the sump. Take a look at what my sump looked like in the article link I just posted. Pretty nasty!

-Wayne

Metal in filter is bad, anyway you slice it. I have the filter from our IMS failure here on my bench, I will be photographing it tonight for our upcoming article. I'll see if I can post some pics...

-Wayne

I posted those photos as promised, in my Intermediate Shaft Bearing article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm Check them out and see how they compare to yours...

-Wayne

The Rear Main Seal (RMS) is sometimes blamed for the more often leak around the intermediate shaft bearing cover. I have an article on replacing this that I just recently posted here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm

I probably wouldn't worry about fixing that leak until it was time to do a clutch job...

-Wayne