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Wayne R. Dempsey

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Everything posted by Wayne R. Dempsey

  1. I was just informed by a reader of my book that Project #17 is somewhat unclear with respect to the torque values used to tighten the idler pulleys. I just added this information to the corrections page on http://www.101projects.com/Boxster/corrections.htm : Page 81, "Replacing Belt Tensioners", the torque values listed for tightening the pulleys require additional clarity. Tighten the pulleys to the following values: Upper Pulley: - 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt - 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9) Lower Pulley: - The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm) only -Wayne
  2. I was just informed by a reader of my book that Project #17 is somewhat unclear with respect to the torque values used to tighten the idler pulleys. I just added this information to the corrections page on http://www.101projects.com/Boxster/corrections.htm : Page 81, "Replacing Belt Tensioners", the torque values listed for tightening the pulleys require additional clarity. Tighten the pulleys to the following values: Upper Pulley: - 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt - 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9) Lower Pulley: - The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm) only -Wayne
  3. Link to my Engine Swap Project: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap.htm :) -Wayne
  4. Hey everyone, the book is now in stock and shipping! Click on the link above to purchase, and a portion of the funds go to support Renntech.org ! -Wayne
  5. If it's not staying down, then it's probably the microswitch inside the door lock assembly. Check out my DIY article on replacement: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock.htm Hope this helps, Wayne
  6. I don't think it's a problem, but I would pull it and re-index it. -Wayne
  7. My article also shows a variation of the tool that you need: http://www.pelicanpa...aft_Bearing.htm Don't do any cutting, as that will just toss a lot of metal flakes into your engine. -Wayne
  8. If the timing were off on that bank, then the other three cylinders would have similar compression problems. They need to dump the oil and take a close look to see if there is oil-coolant mix from a cracked cylinder liner. Usually these don't happen with the cylinders on the end (only on the middle ones), but the oil should be checked regardless. -Wayne
  9. Steve, If you can find a better solution that works, then fantastic. But I spent a lot of time in Lowes and other places trying to find the best leak-free solution, and the one I decided upon really worked well (no leaks). You can use my adapters on the 3-way hoses - you don't have to use them on the s-hoses, but clearance is tight then. So, take your 3-way hose and lob the end of it off, and then use a regular non-S hose that goes from the side pipe to the radiator and cut a small section of that off as well. Then use the adapter to join them together. Basically, you're modifying your 3-way hose with an adapter on the end. If you're trying to save money, that's the way I would go. I'm with JFP - the dishwasher stuff doesn't seem like it would stand the test of time or the environment. It's a lot harsher in the front of your car, than it is under your kitchen sink! -Wayne
  10. I would pull the gauges first and fix the lamp so that you know if the problem is with the switch: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/90-ELEC-996_Cluster/90-ELEC-996_Cluster.htm You can also check the switch at the fuse box without pulling the center console, the pins are listed in my article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/72-BODY-SmartTop/72-BODY-SmartTop.htm -Wayne
  11. Here you go, full docs on the air-oil separator replacement: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator.htm If you remove the oil cap while the car is running and the noise goes away, then it's most likely the air-oil separator. -Wayne
  12. Replacing the MAF would be a good start (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor.htm), but I'm not thinking that the problems your having are related to that. You might want to try disconnecting the MAF when you have these problems to see if the conditions improve. A bad MAF sensor can cause the car to run worse than if it wasn't even plugged in. Just a guess - sounds like a fuel deliver / starvation issue to me. Fuel pump going out perhaps, or a clog in the tank? Or, too much vacuum pressure in the tank combined with a weak pump? Just guessing... -Wayne
  13. There's also a coolant overflow hose too, has there been any leaking out of that? -Wayne
  14. At first glance, I would guess you have too much coolant in there. I would empty it out a bit and then try my bleeding procedures here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/29-WATER-Flush/29-WATER-Flush.htm Let us know how it turns out! -Wayne
  15. As the hose ages, it will probably begin to leak. There's just a bit too much play in the hoses. Still, if it's installed and not leaking yet, I would probably leave it alone until it does decide to start leaking... -Wayne
  16. Hmm, I thought it was clear, I'll have to take another look at it. Here's the photos and captions: One of the problems with the upgrade kit is that the pipes on the regular Boxster are smaller than those on the Boxster S. The trick is to cut the hoses and create a step-down hose using a copper pipe reducer available at any good hardware store (outside diameter 1.25” x 0.875”). A- The regular hose and the larger Boxster S hose are shown side-by-side. B- Cut both hoses at similar points. C- Insert the reducer into the larger diameter hose. D- Join the two pieces together and secure with hose clamps. hese two photos show the left and right side of the inner wheel wells with the larger radiator pipes installed (yellow arrows). In addition to the larger diameter pipes, you also need to install the plastic larger diameter pipe retainers (green arrows). One end of the pipe attaches to the new three-way radiator hose (red arrow), and the other end of the pipe attaches to your custom-made hose with the reducer piece installed (blue arrows). ################# The BLUE arrow points to the radiator hose that you should use the adapter on. -Wayne
  17. Here you go: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/43-TRANS-Shift_Knob/43-TRANS-Shift_Knob.htm -Wayne
  18. BINGO. There's your culprit for sure - the pressure plate. If you haven't replaced the clutch before, I have a lengthy article available on it here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm Things like this are why I recommend replacing the pressure plate along with the disc and throw out bearing all at once. Some people cheap out and replace just a worn disc. -Wayne
  19. I agree. I had the same problem and it was fixed with a new regulator. Here's a writeup of my installation of the new regulator: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm -Wayne
  20. I would start by checking to see if power is found at the radio connector. I have a wiring pinout diagram here (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/88-ELEC-Radio_Install/88-ELEC-Radio_Install.htm). The A/C unit being out is suspect too. That is too much of a coincidence - maybe there is a pinched wire somewhere or a bad ground. If the fuse inside / on the back of the radio is blown, then that seems to indicate that there was a crossed connection at one time and it might have also damaged the A/C unit too. I don't think the A/C units have separate fuses... -Wayne
  21. I'll take a wild stab and maybe say vacuum leak from one of the hoses that feeds the AOS? Use a smoke machine maybe to check for vacuum leaks - at least that way you can eliminate the potential for that issue. Problems like these are difficult to solve with the car right in front of you, let alone over the Internet (vacuum leak check article I wrote here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks.htm) -Wayne
  22. You're right, the headlamp switch has a terminal or two in it that tells the car to turn on the illumination for the dash. N41EF is right too, if the radio and dash switches are not illuminated either, then the problem is most likely the switch. Replacement procedure in my tech article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/87-ELEC-Headlamp_Switch/87-ELEC-Headlamp_Switch.htm -Wayne
  23. The Meyle brand is not OEM, and is not a five-star brand at Pelican, FYI. This is a bit of a pain of a job, I would spend a couple extra bucks and get an OEM or better quality part. As to your question of which switch is needed, the answer is that it depends upon whether your car has been updated with the improved / redesigned steering lock assembly or not. There was a Tech Bulletin out on this fix, and the newer steering locks (which are updatable on the older cars). So, you need to take it out of your car and check it to be absolutely sure. I've got some photos of the process right here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm along with photos of what the switch looks like. Hope this helps, Wayne
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