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Wayne R. Dempsey

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About Wayne R. Dempsey

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    Contributing Member

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    El Segundo, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Boxster 2000 w/ 3.6
    Boxster 1999 Tip
    1972 911 RS Clone
    1974 914-6 Conversion
    1998 BMW 528is Supercharged

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  1. I was just informed by a reader of my book that Project #17 is somewhat unclear with respect to the torque values used to tighten the idler pulleys. I just added this information to the corrections page on http://www.101projects.com/Boxster/corrections.htm : Page 81, "Replacing Belt Tensioners", the torque values listed for tightening the pulleys require additional clarity. Tighten the pulleys to the following values: Upper Pulley: - 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt - 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9) Lower Pulley: - The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm) only -Wayne
  2. I was just informed by a reader of my book that Project #17 is somewhat unclear with respect to the torque values used to tighten the idler pulleys. I just added this information to the corrections page on http://www.101projects.com/Boxster/corrections.htm : Page 81, "Replacing Belt Tensioners", the torque values listed for tightening the pulleys require additional clarity. Tighten the pulleys to the following values: Upper Pulley: - 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt - 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9) Lower Pulley: - The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm) only -Wayne
  3. Link to my Engine Swap Project: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap.htm :) -Wayne
  4. Hey everyone, the book is now in stock and shipping! Click on the link above to purchase, and a portion of the funds go to support Renntech.org ! -Wayne
  5. Hi Wayne,

    My 2004 Boxster lost dash illumination, and replacing the light switch fixed the problem.

    Thankyou, Tony Boyd

  6. If it's not staying down, then it's probably the microswitch inside the door lock assembly. Check out my DIY article on replacement: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock.htm Hope this helps, Wayne
  7. I don't think it's a problem, but I would pull it and re-index it. -Wayne
  8. My article also shows a variation of the tool that you need: http://www.pelicanpa...aft_Bearing.htm Don't do any cutting, as that will just toss a lot of metal flakes into your engine. -Wayne
  9. If the timing were off on that bank, then the other three cylinders would have similar compression problems. They need to dump the oil and take a close look to see if there is oil-coolant mix from a cracked cylinder liner. Usually these don't happen with the cylinders on the end (only on the middle ones), but the oil should be checked regardless. -Wayne
  10. Steve, If you can find a better solution that works, then fantastic. But I spent a lot of time in Lowes and other places trying to find the best leak-free solution, and the one I decided upon really worked well (no leaks). You can use my adapters on the 3-way hoses - you don't have to use them on the s-hoses, but clearance is tight then. So, take your 3-way hose and lob the end of it off, and then use a regular non-S hose that goes from the side pipe to the radiator and cut a small section of that off as well. Then use the adapter to join them together. Basically, you're modifying your 3-way hose with an adapter on the end. If you're trying to save money, that's the way I would go. I'm with JFP - the dishwasher stuff doesn't seem like it would stand the test of time or the environment. It's a lot harsher in the front of your car, than it is under your kitchen sink! -Wayne
  11. I would pull the gauges first and fix the lamp so that you know if the problem is with the switch: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/90-ELEC-996_Cluster/90-ELEC-996_Cluster.htm You can also check the switch at the fuse box without pulling the center console, the pins are listed in my article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/72-BODY-SmartTop/72-BODY-SmartTop.htm -Wayne
  12. Here you go, full docs on the air-oil separator replacement: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator.htm If you remove the oil cap while the car is running and the noise goes away, then it's most likely the air-oil separator. -Wayne
  13. Replacing the MAF would be a good start (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor.htm), but I'm not thinking that the problems your having are related to that. You might want to try disconnecting the MAF when you have these problems to see if the conditions improve. A bad MAF sensor can cause the car to run worse than if it wasn't even plugged in. Just a guess - sounds like a fuel deliver / starvation issue to me. Fuel pump going out perhaps, or a clog in the tank? Or, too much vacuum pressure in the tank combined with a weak pump? Just guessing... -Wayne
  14. There's also a coolant overflow hose too, has there been any leaking out of that? -Wayne
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