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Wayne R. Dempsey
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Posts posted by Wayne R. Dempsey
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Pelican Parts have a special on the factory workshop manuals http://www.pelicanpa..._manual_pg2.htm slightly more than Bentley :) but with a lot more info
Yup, I bought a lot of excess inventory from Porsche. Retail is $2100! The manuals take up 3 boxes and weigh more than 75 lbs! At $399, it's a pretty darn good deal, and the price will be going up as we start to run out of them.
I'm also coming out with a 996 book later on this year or next. I anticipate Bentley will be supporting the 996 market too, but I haven't specifically asked them about that.
-Wayne
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darn, they dont have much life to them. Im wondering where my missing one went. I see no debris on the head, i was going to check the sump pan, anywhere else the debris could get?
Again, I think this is a big function of oil changes as well. Frequent oil changes (3000-5000 miles) can help a lot...
-Wayne
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For reference to the next person who searches on this, here is a link to my article on replacing engine sensors, that includes the crankshaft sensor: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/26-FUEL-Engine_Sensors/26-FUEL-Engine_Sensors.htm
-Wayne
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Right, I agree. Sounds like an aftermarket subwoofer that has been incorrectly wired.
-Wayne
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You need to make sure that you get the correct one. Check out my article here for a breakdown of what you need: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor.htm
Hope this helps,
Wayne
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A blinking light is bad - the engine should be shut off immediately if you see that, as it can damage the catalytic converters. I don't have my reference manual in front of me, what are the two codes in the book?
-Wayne
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Blinking check engine lamp = don't run the engine, as it could damage the catalytic converters.
-Wayne
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@Wayne
Thanks for posting the article here. 1) Rumor has it that the IMS issue is much more rare on 996 tiptronics - your thoughts? 2) Are you going to do a 101 projects for the 996?
pete
The tips do seem to reduce the problems for some reason. Perhaps its because of additional water cooling?
Yes, I am working on 101 for the 996, it should be out in 2011!
Thx,
Wayne
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You're right rb101, I flubbed those descriptions somehow. Also got by a bunch of editors too! Thanks for the note, I have corrected the article!
-Wayne
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Did you verify the signal to the Variocam+ solenoids?
-Wayne
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Sorry, that doesn't exist as far as I know. There are several three-spoke air bags on eBay right now, but they are $600 or so. I don't think that brand new ones are much less. If you want to go this route, you can install a MOMO wheel for about $200 including adapter (doesn't include the airbag). MOMO makes some nice wheels, I show one installed on my Boxster in this article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/62-SUSPEN-Steering_Wheel/62-SUSPEN-Steering_Wheel.htm (see picture 5).
Hope this helps,
Wayne
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A couple of things. I'm not sure what you mean by breather hose on the air-oil separator, there isn't a breather attached to this unit? Are you talking about the vacuum hose attached to the manifold?
To check for leaks at the manifold, what you do is attach your vacuum gauge and the introduce a leak and measure the change. If there's not much change after introducing a leak, then you probably have one already.
Removing and replacing the oil cap only checks crankcase vacuum, which doesn't directly affect the fuel injection system (except through perhaps a fault air-oil separator).
There's a factory procedure for checking the dual mass flywheel, I discuss it here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/44-TRANS-Clutch/44-TRANS-Clutch.htm
-Wayne
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Yes, you unfortunately need a PST-2 (Durametric won't do it). It's also easy to install this upside down accidentally, see the tech article for the installation here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/96-MISC-Child_Seat/96-MISC-Child_Seat.htm
Hope this helps,
-Wayne
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I think the brand and weight of oil is less important than the frequency of changes. Change often!
-Wayne
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I recommend 30K miles, and I recommend using the Porsche factory coolant. It's actually not that much more expensive than the regular stuff, and you only change the coolant once every 3 years or so anyways...
-Wayne
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You can write volumes on the intermediate shaft bearing problems, and still not figure out what causes the exact problem. I have some ideas about this, but I wrote about 3000 words on the Pelican forum. The bottomline - I don't think that anyone really knows what causes this failure. I'm not a huge fan of removing the seal - I think that if the seal is removed you are introducing an environment to the bearing that it wasn't designed for. I studied bearing design when I was at MIT, but I can't quite remember much (that was about 15 years ago now), so take that at face value.
To answer your question, the center bolt is not replaceable unless you remove the bearing. Even then, it's not available as a separate part from Porsche, and the stock center nut is a bit weak due to the recess cut for the o-ring.
-Wayne
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This one is easy - check out my installation tech article with a ton of pics: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/42-TRANS-Short_Shift_Kit/42-TRANS-Short_Shift_Kit.htm
-Wayne
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The key barrel is not an issue on these cars, as there is an electronic lock on the steering rack instead. So far, I haven't heard of these failing...
-Wayne
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I do have a bit of clatter when starting it cold. but is goes away after 2 seconds or so. Could the plasitc chain guides be worn?
Thanks
Chris
That's generally not a good sign, there is something wrong in there...
-Wayne
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It's good news that you can hear the relay click - the horn pad and wiring issues are a pain if the problem lies there.
Remove the front bumper and replace the horns. They are very cheap (like $10 each). Here's some instructions on how to easily remove the front bumper and get to the horns (located on the passenger side): http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/68-BODY-Front_Bumper_-_Wheel_Liner/68-BODY-Front_Bumper_-_Wheel_Liner.htm
-Wayne
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Bleeding these cars can be tricky if you don't follow a set procedure. I have the correct procedure documented here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/29-WATER-Flush/29-WATER-Flush.htm
The blinking red light means low coolant.
I would suggest you go thru the article and rebleed / add more coolant to the system, it shouldn't take very long at all. Loren is right too - it may take a little while for all of the air bubbles to work their way through the system.
Hope this helps,
-Wayne
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Charles at LN Engineering has seen / heard of IMS bearing failures all the way up to the end of the line of the 997, so buying a car based upon that assumption would be unwise. PhillipJ is correct - I wouldn't let the IMS issue influence your decision.
That said, if the 01 is the same price as the 05, then it sounds like the 01 is overpriced and the 05 is underpriced. If you're going to be driving the car, get the 05. If you're going to be modifying it and wrenching on it, then find a cheaper 01.
Hope this helps,
Wayne
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The newer-style air-oil separators appear to be slightly different than the old ones with respect to the hose that connects to the throttle body. If you upgrade / replace your air-oil separator, then you should also get a new hose to connect it to the throttle body, otherwise you will have air / vacuum leaks that may cause the problems you're experiencing. I would try this first, and see if it makes a difference. If not, then check your entire car for vacuum leaks, I have an indepth article on doing that here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks.htm
The engine revving problem you're talking about is called "hunting", which typically means huge vacuum leaks. Also, try blocking off both the air-oil separator port and the throttle body port to see if the problem goes away.
Hope this helps,
-Wayne
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No sweat! I'm a DIY enthusiast just like you!
-Wayne
Here We Go, Another 996 Ims Replacement!
in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Posted · Edited by Wayne R. Dempsey
Hi guys. I have a *great* new method for replacing the bearing that doesn't involve removing the tensioners or using the camshaft tool. I've discussed it at length with Charles (LN Engineering), and he also agrees that it's very clever and should work pretty well. We're testing it right now on a 996 with a busted IMS bearing. The balls on this bearing were completely loose - I had only seen one with this much damage. The car only has 31,000 miles on it too. I've got a photo posted right here: http://forums.pelica...-check-out.html . Tomorrow I'm going to try to remove the bearing with Charles' tool - we're hoping it will come out, but since the bearing race is completely gone, it may get stuck in there and require some other persuasive techniques to remove.
I'll keep everyone posted, and I should have a new article up on the web next week that will simplify the entire process. I'm excited about the method, but I don't want to let the cat out of the bag until we fully test everything.
Oh, I also have a complete article on the chain tensioners that some of you may find useful: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Chain_Tensioner/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Chain_Tensioner.htm
-Wayne