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jporter

Contributing Members
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About jporter

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    Contributing Member

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Midwest
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    01 996 TT
  • Future cars
  • Former cars

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  1. I just looked at the operation again and there is also a delay in the movement up after the motor starts. When you push the button to move the spoiler up, there is a short delay of about 2 seconds when the motor is running and the spoiler starts to move up. This is very similar to the delay for the motor to stop when the spoiler is going down. It seems like there is a gap formed between the hydraulic system and the mechanical part of the spoiler when the spoiler is retracted. This gap causes the delay when the spoiler is raised as the gap between the hydraulic system and the mechanical par
  2. I have a 2001 911 turbo with about 40k miles and the warning started to show up about a month ago when the spoiler was raised on the highway. I could duplicate this by raising the spoiler with the button. There were no signs of leaking fluid. I removed the microswitch unit with the spoiler up and noticed some light dry crude on the metal part of the upper microswitch that touched the outer surface of the ram. There was some light crud on ram - this was visible looking through the opening for the upper microswitch. I cleaned both surfaces and put some WD40 on the contacting surfaces and th
  3. 2001 996 TT I thought I would pass this on as someone might catch this prior to having their mirror leak on their shifter and center console. I noticed something had leaked onto my shifter boot and center console and realized it was coming from my interior mirror. There was a thick gooey material oozing from the bottom of the mirror. It looks like the “oil” in the mirror corrodes the plastic frame of the mirror. I also noticed you could see “oil” in the bottom of the mirror in a pattern that look like waves or for those my age it looks like a lava lamp this is not on. The “oil” looks li
  4. Thanks JFP in PA. I appreciate the quick reply.
  5. I have a stock 2001 996 TT. I was at a HPDE and had the CEL come one. The code was P1341. The car was running fine and the CEL stayed off all day after being reset. The code came on at the end of the second day and stayed off for 3 days after being reset and just came on again. The car continues to run fine and was very strong (as usual) on the track. I understand that this is related to the camshaft adjustment for bank 1 and have read the related threads on the other forums. Is there anything specific to the 996 TT that I should consider and is there a recommended order to resolve th
  6. I would like to use Super Sports as they were highly recommended by a Micheline Test Engineer that was my instructor at Road Atlanta. They don't seem to produce the right size though as I can't find 295/30 18's. Does anyone know if they are producing 295/30 18's?
  7. Blue Eyez, Here some pictures of the lock I removed from my car.
  8. Thanks. That could be it as there is very little time between 7 and 8. I'll do some research on how the system works.
  9. I have a 2001 996 tt with 39K miles and it is all stock. I had an issue with my brakes over the weekend at Mid-Ohio and thought someone may know the cause. At the end of the back straight (longest straight on the track) I threshold brake with my right foot for about 3 seconds and downshift at the end of the braking using heal-toe, turn into turn 7 (right hand turn) and full acceleration through 7 into turn 8 (appropriately called Madness). When I start to left foot brake into 8 the pedal or master cylinder seems to be stuck at the top and I have to push harder to break it loose and then eve
  10. I had the same issue and I had someone sit in the passenger side to listen for the sound. We also found a screw driver (normal size) left by the prior owner. I also found that the clamp that holds the pluming up and together that is under the car and under the passenger side door was broken (bottom half missing) and I replaced it with a new one. The noise was the result of the screw driver, but I think the broken clamp could also cause some noise.
  11. Thanks for the information. This will help in coming up with a fix. I was also thinking about a sport exhaust, but then that would lead to a flash of the ECU, replacing the diverter valves, adding new turbos, lowering the car, …:D
  12. I have a 01 996TT with about 35K miles and I noticed a rattle sound from the muffler area. I traced this to the shields that are attached to the muffler. Three of the attachment points that appear (not sure) to be welded to the muffler have detached. The result is that one of the shields rattles when starting to move from a standstill. Has anyone had this happen to their cars and found a suitable fix to the problem? I would also appreciate any comments regarding how the shields are actually attached to the muffler – I could not get a good view of the attachment as I didn't want to try
  13. It's been a couple months since I replaced the diverter valve and the codes have not reappeared. The attached image shows the relationship of the diverter valves to the air injection system.
  14. The following are some details on replacing the door lock. I did not take any pictures of the removal and installation so I'll do my best to recall what I did. There are 2 DIYs that will be very helpful (I know they would have helped me if I had looked at them before I did the work). Loren has posted a DIY on removing and installing the door panel and Richard Hamilton has posted a DIY on the door microswitches. Verify the problem using Richard's DIY and remove the panel using Loren's DIY. I disconnected the battery as I was worried about the window moving when my hand was in the door
  15. I just noticed this as I have been busy at work. I will post some notes over the weekend, but I have the following comment until I have time for a more detailed post. You have to remove the inside door panel and this involve several bolts/screws that are and are not visible. The ones under the handle are the least obvious. There is also a sound/vapor liner that you will have to move to the side. You will then have to find someone with hand as small as a 3 year old, as nimble as a pianist and as strong as a 200 lb man to remove the handle and lock mechanism and then get it back in place.
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