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jporter

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Everything posted by jporter

  1. The AOS is the Air Oil Separator and the car is up on jack stands. The engine is supported from the top with a backup underneath.
  2. I’m in the process of fixing some oil leaks on a 98 Boxster with a 2.5L engine (84K miles) and thought the following pictures would be of interest to others with leaky engines. The first picture is the classic “nose drip” under the car. The second picture shows the major sources of the leaks. The intermediate shaft area seems to be the most significant in the clutch housing and the RMS looks much better than I expected. The major cause of the oil leaks is the AOS as can be seen on the right side of the picture. The third picture shows a close-up of the intermediate shaft area. The forth picture shows a close-up of the bellows of the AOS and you can see a LARGE hole on the left side of the bellows. I also noticed in the picture what looks like tape that was used to cover the hole. I'll get a closer look what looks like tape when I remove the AOS this weekend. The last picture shows some seepage from the oil filler hose.
  3. I have a 98 Boxster with a 2.5L engine and I'm in the process of replacing the RMS and the other suspect leakers like the crankcase and intermediate shaft bolts. I'm also replacing the AOS as it has decided to spray a significant amount of rust preservative on the passenger side of the engine. I will also likely replace the clutch and would like to know the original specification on the thickness and the wear limit. I plan to see if I can come up with a way to monitor clutch wear when everything is reassembled. Does anyone know what the thickness specifications are for a new clutch disc as well as the disc wear limit for a 2.5L engine?
  4. I think the spark plugs could be very old as I have not changed the plugs and I have had the car for 3 years. I will search the site for the proper plugs and replace them. I will also look at the other issues you mentioned. Again thank you for the replies and the great support you provide in this forum.
  5. Thanks for the quick reply. I have not changed the spark plugs and that could be the issue. Are your comments following "Most likely causes" about the spark plugs?
  6. I have a 98 Boxster with 84K miles. I had the CEL come on and read the codes – P1319, P1318, P1316 and a pending code for P0130. I reset the light and the codes came on the next day after about an hour of driving. This time the codes were P1319, P1314, P1313 and a pending code for P0130. I replaced the B2S1 O2 sensor a couple of years ago as this one was flat lined on the sensor plots. I have reviewed the other threads on this issue and it seems odd to me that I would get misfires on both sides, but only show a possible issue with the B1S1 O2 sensor. The plots also look better than I recall the plot was for the B2S1 O2 sensors that I replaced in the past. I recorded the sensor values for a 20 minutes ride at a variety of speeds. I have attached the sensor plots (5 second scan rate) for your review and would appreciate any comments that could help me resolve this issue.
  7. I also have a 98 and I just replaced the coolant tank - found coolant under the back of the car and in the trunk. It was a more difficult task than I initially thought and lasted most of a day. It would have gone faster if I had been brave enough to get under the car on jacks. I also had to go out and buy a tool to open the hard to reach hose clamps. The good news is no more leaks.
  8. Quick Update I’ve had the car out several times now and it continues to run great. Engine runs smooth all the way to the top. Jporter
  9. TECHSPRAY Ecoline Blue Shower. This contains Isopropanol, Ethanol and Heptane. The car has more than 80K miles so the MAF could have been bad. I use to get a random hesitation when accelerating through 5K revs and this was not present after I replaced the MAF. I must admit that I only drove the car for a short time (20 minutes) and only ran hard through the gears a few times so the random hesitation could still be present.
  10. I just received my new MAF - part number 996 606 123 00. I replaced the old MAF and the car runs great. :clapping: I'll post a message if the codes return and try to remember to make a post if they don't reappear.
  11. I'm kind of between a rock and a hard place. I do plan to have AutoZone read the codes, but I'm concerned about the CEL. The CEL only flashes for a few seconds then goess solid. The CEL seems to only flash when I start moving from a stop - once the car is moving the CEL goes solid. I understand that it is not ok to drive the car when the CEL is flashing, but is it ok to drive the car if the CEL is solid after flashing earlier on the same drive. Incidentally the CarChip reports P0300, P0301 & P0302. I believe these issues are the result of trying to clean the MAF since they were not present until after I cleaned the MAF. I also drove the car this morning after letting it warm up for a couple of minutes - Although the CEL did not turn on, the car ran rough on idle. I just tried taking the car to AutoZone and the CEL Flashed and went solid as mentioned above so I left the car at home.
  12. I tried cleaning the MAF and although it was dirty, the end result is more problems. I used electrical contact cleaner that claimed no residue. I now get multiple misfires that result in flashing CEL. The O2 sensors are now flat-lined with only a spike or two. The CEL does go solid after several seconds and the car runs ok. I'm concerned with cooking the cats as a result of the flat-lined O2 sensors so I plan to order a new MAF :( Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  13. Topless and mikefocke, Thanks for the great information. The information in mikefocke's site is clear and informative. Thanks for the lead from Topless and the information from mikefocke. I will also follow Loren's recommendations as I have followed his post in the past and I have a lot of respect for the information that he and Toolpants provide. Thanks again to all and I will pass on the result of the efforts to resolve the issue. jporter
  14. Loren, Thank you for the information. I will check the lines and canister as soon as I can. I'm reasonably confident in the CarChip's ability to read the codes. but I will take the car to Autozone to have the codes read. jporter
  15. I have a 98 Boxster with a 2.5 5 speed and have recently run into a series of CEL on issues. The first time this happened I got code P1125. I reset the CEL and got codes P1123 and P1125 about a month later. I reset the CEL and got P1128 on two different trips about a week later. I reset the CEL and I got P1123 and P1125 a week later. I looked at the CarChip logs and P1123 and P1125 seem to appear on trips when I drive consistently over 60 mph. The O2 sensors graphs also look odd in that they show consistent output when driving over 60 mph. The O2 sensors graphs normally show a lot of variation in sensor output. I could not find anything related to the time I got the P1128 code. Any suggestions on where to focus on fixing this issue would be appreciated.
  16. See the attached link for the relay location. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...findpost&p=8818
  17. Consider unplugging and plugging back in the relay as this may have come loose as a result of the bump.
  18. While doing some maintenance on my car recently, I found what I believe was the cause of the popping sound at the end of the closing cycle on the top. I removed the transmission from the side that made the popping sound prior to the fix covered in the earlier posts. The 4 screws indicated in the attached photo were very loose – significant gap between screws and black plastic piece that houses the driven gear. I believe this resulted in the driven gear partially backing out of the pilot hole on the other side of the transmission and allowing the gears to skip over a tooth under the added pressure at the end of the closing cycle. I believe the loosening of the screws is the result of the plastic piece taking a permanent set (commonly called creep in plastics) due to the pressure of the screws. The permanent set would be increased due to the pressures cycles related to the thermal expansion of the plastic piece. The screws could become loose and slowly back out over time. Although I plan to keep the fixed mentioned above for added control of the closing cycle, I believe tightening these screws could have solved my original problem and I thought it could help others in troubleshooting top problems. PS: Apologies to Toolpants for using part of one of his photos so I could highlight the location of the screws.
  19. Although I don't know how this would be related to the work done on your car, I had similar results with a 98 when I forgot to reconnect the wires to the B-pillar microswitch.
  20. I had a similar problem with a 98 and it was the result a break in the sensor wire at the point it attaches to the plug (white plastic on the 98) that connects to the frame. This was found by moving the sensor wires on each wheel until the problem was identified. The problem was corrected by soldering the wire back on the plug. This required some work on the plug to get enough wire visible on the plug.
  21. It turns out that the proper socket screw is the blue 999 067 041 09. This was verified by the dealer.
  22. What is the correct part number for the socket screws for the rear calipers on a 98 Boxster. When I did the front brakes I was given blue socket screws part # 999 067 041 09 This time I was given red socket screws part # 999 067 042 09 (also slightly longer)
  23. I have a 98 and had a similar problem that was related to an O2 sensor. The code reader I used (CarChip E/X) picked up the O2 sensor problem as well as the misfires. These are shown below. P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1, Sensor 2) P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected “Bank 1" is on the passenger side of the car and "Sensor 2" is the one located downstream of the catalytic converter. Replacing the sensor solved the problem.
  24. I had what sounds like the same problem on my 98 Bosxter. I found that the alarm horn was disconnected. When I reconnected the horn it turned out to be bad. I took the horn apart and I believe the coating of the coils had swelled sufficiently to keep the horn from working. I replaced the horn (less than $15) and it works now.
  25. The Owner’s Manual says the following for the spoiler light. “Lights for a lamp check when ignition is switched on and goes off when the vehicle moves off.” This is how the light works on my Bosxter. As a result the light stays on after the other lights go off and stays on until the car is moving.
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