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Hey Everyone,

Another 996TT Question on another 996TT

2001 996TT

Missfire only on cyl 1,2 & 3

Recent repairs...

- Plugs & Coils

- Repaired Pressure/vacuum Leak + Re-Checked with smoke machine afterwards

- Replaced MAF Sensor

- Compression Test Done, All Cyl Equal\

Things I have Noticed.

Plugs are slighty dark/sooty on cyl's 1,2 & 3 - Bank 2 look normal

Just looking for some suggestions since it takes forever and a day to do anything on these turbos.

Cheers and Thanks.

D.

ok thanks

Hey Everyone....

Im working a 996tt Franken-Porsche

Its a pieced together theft recovery car. :(

Current engine type in the DME is 9670

Im not sure what this means and How do I know what it should be?

Thanks...

Curious Myself, Various documents and manuals state that I should reset Camshaft Control...

Any one with input?

Hey there...

Last time I ran into a Cayenne with a brake booster fault, it was a fault for the pressure sensor I believe..

If my memory serves me correct, it is part of the booster and not replaceable on its own.. To fix the fault I had to replace the entire booster that is stuffed into that cowel :(

I have also done this 3 times on a 997...

Can you scan it and pull the actual fault codes before you go any further?

+1

definately check the connectors in the fender.... the next time the light (s) go out you can even try pressing the headlamp further in and see if it comes on and thats a dead giveaway...

I see problems with the connector at the back of the headlamp VERY often

excellent! thanks for posting the results...

hopefully you will enjoy you vehicle without problems now.

cheers

looks great! thanks for sharing!

curious about the cost as well?

cheers

TRW as far as i know is a standard OEM and aftermarket parts company. They are often used at my place of work..

Should be fine for a general replacement part.

Cheers

How about checking for a vacuum leak (bellows) and swapping out the MAF... Or at least pull some values for comparison... alot of DIY scan tools are capable of pulling MAF volume/voltage these days.

my .02c

I think ill make my signature something like I EAT BOSCH MAF"S LIKE CANDY.. sounded better in my head.

Use a plastic trim tool and simply pry the tach right out of the dash.. you have to be careful not to damage the leather.

The gauges have a ribbed rubber seal that holds them in place... thats all.. again be caurefull of the leather and / or slipping damaging the gauge.....

Then your on your own because i cant remember which bulbs etc but should be self explanitory once you get it out..

Once done press back in with the seal on the gauge first.. some silicon spray may aide in the install.... also watch that it goes in level... Unless you want that tuner look where the redline is at the top :thumbup:

cheers

also.. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41003-access-to-rear-of-gauge-cluster-to-replace-bulbs/page__fromsearch__1

silicon spray in the window guides can work wonders...

installation of the regulator can be a culprit as well if something is miss-aligned and the glass ends up being under tension...

I know there are lexan windshield and hatch glass available that can be urathaned in.. Rear glass separated from frame (this part is challenging) then lexan installed to the frame ( urathaned / fasteners ) The guys here usually do it off the car..... We made rear quarter windows that just screw in flush for aero and easy removal...

I recommend pre-drilling any holes through acrylic/lexan so it doesn't split when putting through a fastener..

You can paint a black frame or vinyl for looks... I recommend painting from the inside out...

Note clubs may sanction rules for braces on plastic windows and possible retaining clips for front windshield

Cheers

umm i know that you guys are already into taking apart the motor... but I just had a situation with another brand of vehicle where a whole bunch of work was done to a vehicle to solve a missfire... and it came back with a missfire still... turned out additional to everything the same cylinder that originally had the miss, ironically got a BAD NEW spark plug causing a intermittent miss.......

I know that someone mentioned how the plug looks on the questionable cylinder but i didnt see a response... I know your tech will hate you especially for all the forum advice :) but just make sure the BASIC basics are covered.....

cheers...

there is also this tsb....

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=downloads&module=display&section=download&do=confirm_download&id=416

986 Door Panel Removal as per Porsche

I think if you have managed to replace the door latch you should be able to get it open... But you will have to remove the inner door panel without opening the door... I dont electrics/alarm matter at this point because the inner door handle should be a mechanical overide...

Also i've seen people work miracles with slim jims and coat hangers - also seen people damage cars doing that... so be carefull..

if the bowden cable from the door handle is hooked up the latch should still open from the inside... but if its not or incorrectly installed you should be able to jimmy the lever to the unlock position....

Always check your work, next time you can activate the latch with ie. a screw driver to test it before closing the door

Best of luck!

ya '07 Cayenne with Air Suspension....

It was put on a lift without disabling air suspension.... the tech apparantly tried to calibrate it afterwards and now when I try to run the piwis cal... it goes to low level first then tries to go to normal level but shoots the rear to the top...

things that make you go hmmm...

Does anyone have any typical measurement values for the calibration? I have one that someone tried calibrating, so when it tries to go to normal level during calibration it jumps to the top right away....

The front sway bar end links often wear out....

If you lift up the car you can grab the end of the sway bar and force it up and down with your hand... If you can feel movement / clicking you end link is most likely worn out..

Cheers.

Adding a lubricant help only temporarily and is intended only as an aid to locate a noise (ball joints), it always ends with a new part.

Agreed.

the ball joint around here is usually the culprit....

Pressure testing and Vacuum filling are definitely the way to go... when you vacuum fill its fast and reliable... also say good bye to porsche's complicated "bleeding"

We use snap on pressure tester and vacuum filler..

AST has adapters for decent price... I believe the part number is FZ-22 (converts the porche threaded opening to a standard rad cap twist lock that works on most testers fillers.

http://www.amazon.co...2/dp/B00063XLTS

Sorry I keep thinking cayenne says carrerra . the above is for a 996 - 997 - 987

Cayenne Adaptor should be FZ 41

http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-FZ-41/dp/B00063Y3TK