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mikeatfhc

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  • From
    Vacaville, CA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    1997 Boxster
    1978 911SC Wide Body
  • Former cars
    924

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  1. mikeatfhc
    :D I thought I'd provide an update and a very public thank you to Loren. I drove up to Loren's house last week - he pull's out his PST2 running on a laptop, copies pages from the factory manuals, opens the car door and hooks the magic box up to my car's data port - ALA Matrix - style. Runs the PST2 through all of the car's systems. We discover no voltage to the fan blower. We then start going through the checklists from the factory manuals. About step 8 we recognize no voltage on the blower relay pin 87 - it should be hot. We begin to suspect there might be a broken wire behind the fuse block panel... I was ready to tear it all apart right there... then Loren's bit of inspiration... let's try switching relays. So he looks up a relay not critical to operation of the car - block 10 the fan, we switch it for the suspect relay in block 18 the blower. (they wre the same types of relays) Like magic the blower fan comes to life! I felt kinda stupid having Loren spend part of his Saturday helping me identify something I should have found myself. So I posted this for the archives and to thank Loren for his dedication helping other Porsche owners in their time of need, no matter how stupid they are. :huh: The moral of the story is this... don't go buying parts trying to fix a problem (I bought a used ballast resister and a used AC control unit for no good reason) AND usually the problem is a simple fix, not the most complicated one.
  2. mikeatfhc
    I was hoping you would chime in Loren. Sending a PM, thanks a bunch, mike.
  3. mikeatfhc
    Fuses are all good... anyone?
  4. mikeatfhc
    Hi all... I did perform numerous searches on this problem and I think I am the first to pose a blower-out problem. I need help diagnosing where the problem lies with my 1997. The heater/AC blower stopped working just as our local temperatures have started to rise - go figure. I have pulled the blower to check it's operation - and not knowing the exact voltages it required I just crossed my fingers and applied 12 volts - it spins fine. I then checked for voltage at the connector to the blower and set the climate controls to varing positions to see if I got any voltage to the blower itself - very, very little voltage was making its way to the blower to get it to spin. On the order of millivolts. So to spend less and try it - I bought a used ballaster resistor and installed to see if the problem lay there... nope. Still no voltage to the fan. I did check the connections to the back of the climate control to see if any broke or weren't seated properly and saw nothing unusual. I will note that the fan speed control on the climate control unit itself has been acting strangely - the led bar guide tends to 'drift' up and down on occaision, but it didn't seem to affect the blower speed itself. Before I go off and buy a used climate control unit somewhere - Can anyone give me some ideas on what to check next? Also is there anything I should be on the lookout for when purchasing a used climate control unit?
  5. mikeatfhc
    Ok now I am little confused. How can I check resistance with the buckle engaged? Say one lead on the metal of the male (inserted) end of the buckle while the buckle is engaged and the other lead on the mounting bolt to the seat? I may take you up on that offer sometime Loren - I have a nasty OEL that has been giving me fits. Countless seaches just bring numerous returns of possible fixes. I am no slouch but I am definately not an OBDII mechanic by any stretch. I have followed your threads as a lurker for some time - thanks for all you help. And my sincerest apologies for this hijack!
  6. mikeatfhc
    I'll hand it to you for originality... finding the place to put a sub in a Boxster it a challenge. Personally I'd go for the rear compartment, but that's me and I like a place to put my stuff in the car given the limited storage and all. I have designed and built probably 10 sets of home speakers from scratch now and have some knowledge of enclosure design. If you'd like I can plug your driver parameters into some software I use and get you close for volumes of the enclosure. By the looks of the photos it appears that you are going with a sealed enclosure correct?
  7. mikeatfhc
    Do you suggest I check the resistance from the metal inside the buckle to say the nut which bolts it the seat? If so will do. I suspect that the independent who did the work didn't follow the TSB completely and may have just switched the buckles alone, but who knows. One thing I did notice was that my new copy of Durametric would not reset the airbag light at all. I updated the software from the site and have yet to try that to see if I can at least reset the light. I'll let you know how this goes, now if the rain would stop just for a few minutes... Thanks for the help.
  8. mikeatfhc
    The fix is fully documented in a Porsche TSB. All Contributing Members here can read that TSB (online here). I am a member of ALLDATA and they had not updated the TSB to include the ground fix. I just logged in with them and they now have it. It's probably time I become a contributing member here has I now have two Pcars and have been lurking for quite a while. My problem is that the previous owner had the belt buckles changed by an independent prior to my purchase of the vehicle thus turning off the air bag light and now I have the light and the driver's belt code. I figure I am going to have to remove the driver's seat and see if the independent actually did the ground point repair as well. Or, try replacing the belt buckle again on my own.
  9. mikeatfhc
    I have the same seatbelt buckle problm as you - without the code 21. Had the driver's and passenger's buckles replaced but now Duramentric reports code (I believe 48) Driver's seat belt buckle. I am having a hard time searching for the ground fix. Any pointers? The write-up would be great.
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