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1schoir last won the day on March 13 2019

1schoir had the most liked content!

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About 1schoir

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  • From
    Freeport, New York
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1997 Boxster
  • Future cars
    Another Boxster
  • Former cars
    72 BMW 2002 tii
    76 BMW 2002
    73 BMW 3.0 CS
    87 Maserati Biturbo Spyder

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  1. Very excellent story with a very excellent outcome! Hard to believe that was from more than ten years ago, but thanks for confirming one of the two methods for getting the clamshell up. Good luck with the rest of the install. Regards, Maurice.
  2. A few possibilities and things to check come to mind from your description... Have you tested the B-Pillar microswitch to see if it is shaped (bent) correctly and for continuity? Have you tried to apply 12 volts directly to the convertible top electric motor (located under the center of the clamshell). Since you have a '99, have you checked the black lever microswitch that is located above the electric motor under the center of the clamshell? What, exactly did you do to check the fuses and the relay, and which fuses did you test? Did you pull out the latch assembly and test the TWO different microswitches there? It seems that one of them is working for sure (the one that allows the windows to drop down when you pull the latch), but the other one may be warped or otherwise faulty. Regards, Maurice.
  3. Glad to be of help. Curious to know if your Boxster had the Phillips screws. Regards, Maurice.
  4. There are three (13mm, IIRC) bolts on each side of the convertible top frame base that must be loosened before you can pull the top back. You must really apply a lot of pressure pulling back the frame after the bolts are loosened and don't expect a lot of movement, usually just a few millimeters but that is enough to have a magnified effect at the latch by the time it "crosses over" the windscreen. First loosen all six bolts, then work on one side by pulling back on the base frame and simultaneously tightening one of the three bolts on that side (preferably with a buddy doing the pulling and you doing the tightening). Then do the same on the other side. Finally tighten the remaining two bolts on each side. Note that some Boxsters came with additional Phillips head screws installed to locate the base frame properly, and those, if any, must be removed as well. Here are two photos of the bolts (and screws, if any) and their location. These two photos are of the left (driver's) side of the base frame. The relevant bolts are circled in red, and blue arrows are pointing to the Phillips screws. The second photo additionally shows the lower of the three bolts (not circled) and part of the rearmost bolt of the three. Same (mirror image) set up on the right side. Regards, Maurice.
  5. If your issue was one of a stretched cable or a missing/broken piece of the plastic bushing part of the window regulator, the window would NOT drop down the 1/2 inch under any circumstance. Your issue is elsewhere, most probably as described by Ahsai.
  6. Very nice, clean looking upgrade. The red grill echoes the red in the lens of the interior light on the right side. The red leather trim is a very nice touch and makes it pop!
  7. Thanks for the clarification. Regards, Maurice.
  8. I am reasonably certain that the relay for a 987 is in the same vicinity as that for a 986. Take a look in the kick panel to the left of your left calf when you are sitting in the driver's seat (If your steering wheel is on the right because it is a British version of the 987, take a look in the kick panel to the right of your right calf as you are sitting in the driver's seat). Once you remove the small carpeted panel, you will see all of the fuses in the fuse panel. Directly ABOVE the fuse panel is the relay tray. The convertible top relay is the only double relay in that tray. Regards, Maurice.
  9. Here is what the two-part plastic part looks like... As you can clearly see from the markings, the further to the left (i.e., towards the front) that you slide the part on top, the thicker the overall assembly will be and thus the higher up the front prong of the clamshell will sit. And here is where the driver's side adjuster sits in the clamshell rain channel: Regards, Maurice.
  10. There is a small, black, two-piece plastic part located a few inches back from the very front of each "arm" of the clamshell. It is located under the clamshell, in the rain channel and it can be used to adjust the height of the final position of the front of each arm. If you look at it closely, you will see that it is just a matter of pulling the two pieces apart (lowers it) or pushing the two pieces towards each other (raises it.). If the driver's side front of the clamshell is sitting closer to the proper height as you describe, try to adjust the passenger side to the same configuration as a starting point and go from there. Then you can go back to the driver's side and make perfect. Regards, Maurice.
  11. That is indeed all there is to it, with no heavy lifting (literal or otherwise) involved, no need to contort your body to get under the dash, and no surprises. Thanks for explaining the absence of heater core valves in modern cars. Regards, Maurice.
  12. There are the two adjustments that can be made by screwing the torx bolts clockwise or counterclockwise. That will have the window ending up lower or higher in its final position. However, I think your problem is probably with the regulator itself, even though it's new. One thing you can do to narrow down the problem is to measure the actual length of the drop when you pull on the cable. You can get that spec from the Bentley manual or just compare it with your window on the other side. If the length of the drop is the same, you can adjust the height by using the torx screws. If the length of the drop is not quite enough, it's the slack in the cable. It's easy to determine whether your cable has too much slack to start with. Since you have the door panel off, you can observe what happens to the cable (and the window) when you pull on the handle. If you see the cable "tightening up" a split second before the window starts to move down that required 1/2 inch, that's your problem. There should be no slack in the cable, meaning that when you pull on the door handle, it should instantly move the window down, without first having to take up the slack. If that is what you observe, you can definitely fix it with the bicycle brake adjuster fix. Regards, Maurice.
  13. wiz: I couldn't find the link to the thread on 986forum, so I wrote this up a couple of years ago on this site and I just found that thread. Here is a link to that discussion, with photos: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45244-window-drop-passenger-side/?hl=%2Bwindow+%2Bregulator Good luck. Let us know how you make out. Regards, Maurice.
  14. ... The adjustments on the bottom of the door only change the angle of the glass relative to the frame. ... There are additional adjustments on the windows that allow you to position the window not only up and down, but also inward and outward (besides the "angle of the glass relative to the frame". Some of these adjustments require that the door panel be removed for access. Regards, Maurice.
  15. If the window is not dropping enough AND it's the original regulator, it may be possible to repair the regulator by taking up some of the slack with a bicycle brake adjuster. One of the posters on 986forum.com came up with this ingenious solution and it works perfectly as a permanent repair. I used his repair method and it's been good for over three years. Regards, Maurice.
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