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That's excellent work! Very predictable of Porsche to force owners to buy complete units, instead of just protecting their patents and making the parts available at a reasonable profit. Perhaps you might find used motors from junkyards in the UK or here in the U.S., with the caveat that they should be of very recent vintage or low mileage. I guess the valuable lesson here is to include cleaning and re-lubricating the gears inside these motors with the proper lubricant to minimize wear. Add another one to the list! If you ever succeed in your quest, keep us updated. I'll supply the peanuts! :) Regards, Maurice.
Glad that you are making progress in diagnosing the problem. Are the electric motors needed part # 99662422100 at about $750 each? If that's the case, you can either buy new motors or have those rebuilt. There are shops which can just replace the defective toothed gear(s). Regardless of the approach (new or rebuilding) you have to make sure that the electric motors are not laboring unduly (because of lack of lubrication or misalignment of any of the parts) or they will wear out prematurely again. Your 997.2 is probably not old enough to justify thinking that the teeth wore out from overuse. Let us know if you make any further progress. Regards, Maurice.
From your update, it sounds like you have to identify the rails, channels or other surfaces on which rollers or plastic pads slide and clean and lubricate those surfaces. I'm not intimately familiar with Targa roof mechanisms, but some general rules apply. As an example, the 986 Boxster (as well as other Boxsters) have a clamshell that is supported from underneath by two arms (left and right). Those support arms are attached to the underside of the clamshell and the other end of the support arms terminate in a steel ball that is installed at a 90 degree angle to the arms. Each steel ball (one left and one right) is pressed into a plastic rectangular "shoe" which is inserted into, and which literally slides back and forth in, a horizontal metal channel as the clamshell goes to the up or the stowed position. If that channel or the plastic "shoe" is not lubricated or gets contaminated with dirt, it will manifest itself reliably with a judder and a slowing down of the thus struggling mechanism. As soon as you clean that channel and the plastic shoe and lubricate those parts, the difference is shocking. I cannot overemphasize the effects of dirty and/or non lubricated parts on these mechanisms and, if you are able to locate the equivalent channels on your Targa and clean and lubricate them, I am reasonably confident that you will be pleasantly surprised at the effects. At the very least if lubrication does not ameliorate the situation at all you will have narrowed it down to a mechanical or component part failure. Here is a photo of the type of channel and parts I was describing, this one from a 986 Boxster. Regards, Maurice.
You can at least buy some time, and maybe even get a pleasant surprise by following the recommendations above regarding using Krytox and/or White Lithium Grease. The judder you refer to is almost always caused by lack or absence of lubrication or dirt contamination of the old existing lubricant. The "slow" aspect you describe may possibly be caused by the increased resistance the mechanism and the gears are struggling against due to lack of proper lubrication. The photos generously provided by "Fixxxer" can guide you to get started, along with the instructions provided by "jay04v6". If it works, you can educate the dealer. :) Regards, Maurice.
1schoir replied to PAULSPEED's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Please post the VW part number and the year/model/series of the Touareg for the benefit of those who will have the same issue.
Very excellent story with a very excellent outcome! Hard to believe that was from more than ten years ago, but thanks for confirming one of the two methods for getting the clamshell up. Good luck with the rest of the install. Regards, Maurice.
A few possibilities and things to check come to mind from your description... Have you tested the B-Pillar microswitch to see if it is shaped (bent) correctly and for continuity? Have you tried to apply 12 volts directly to the convertible top electric motor (located under the center of the clamshell). Since you have a '99, have you checked the black lever microswitch that is located above the electric motor under the center of the clamshell? What, exactly did you do to check the fuses and the relay, and which fuses did you test? Did you pull out the latch assembly and test the TWO different microswitches there? It seems that one of them is working for sure (the one that allows the windows to drop down when you pull the latch), but the other one may be warped or otherwise faulty. Regards, Maurice.
There are three (13mm, IIRC) bolts on each side of the convertible top frame base that must be loosened before you can pull the top back. You must really apply a lot of pressure pulling back the frame after the bolts are loosened and don't expect a lot of movement, usually just a few millimeters but that is enough to have a magnified effect at the latch by the time it "crosses over" the windscreen. First loosen all six bolts, then work on one side by pulling back on the base frame and simultaneously tightening one of the three bolts on that side (preferably with a buddy doing the pulling and you doing the tightening). Then do the same on the other side. Finally tighten the remaining two bolts on each side. Note that some Boxsters came with additional Phillips head screws installed to locate the base frame properly, and those, if any, must be removed as well. Here are two photos of the bolts (and screws, if any) and their location. These two photos are of the left (driver's) side of the base frame. The relevant bolts are circled in red, and blue arrows are pointing to the Phillips screws. The second photo additionally shows the lower of the three bolts (not circled) and part of the rearmost bolt of the three. Same (mirror image) set up on the right side. Regards, Maurice.
1schoir replied to av8sky's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)If your issue was one of a stretched cable or a missing/broken piece of the plastic bushing part of the window regulator, the window would NOT drop down the 1/2 inch under any circumstance. Your issue is elsewhere, most probably as described by Ahsai.
I am reasonably certain that the relay for a 987 is in the same vicinity as that for a 986. Take a look in the kick panel to the left of your left calf when you are sitting in the driver's seat (If your steering wheel is on the right because it is a British version of the 987, take a look in the kick panel to the right of your right calf as you are sitting in the driver's seat). Once you remove the small carpeted panel, you will see all of the fuses in the fuse panel. Directly ABOVE the fuse panel is the relay tray. The convertible top relay is the only double relay in that tray. Regards, Maurice.
Here is what the two-part plastic part looks like... As you can clearly see from the markings, the further to the left (i.e., towards the front) that you slide the part on top, the thicker the overall assembly will be and thus the higher up the front prong of the clamshell will sit. And here is where the driver's side adjuster sits in the clamshell rain channel: Regards, Maurice.
There is a small, black, two-piece plastic part located a few inches back from the very front of each "arm" of the clamshell. It is located under the clamshell, in the rain channel and it can be used to adjust the height of the final position of the front of each arm. If you look at it closely, you will see that it is just a matter of pulling the two pieces apart (lowers it) or pushing the two pieces towards each other (raises it.). If the driver's side front of the clamshell is sitting closer to the proper height as you describe, try to adjust the passenger side to the same configuration as a starting point and go from there. Then you can go back to the driver's side and make perfect. Regards, Maurice.