Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses - Goal Reached!
A big Thank You to all those that donated to help us reach our 2019 goal (and pay the site operating costs)!
Just an FYI - if all members of this site had donated - then the cost per member would have been less than $0.06 each.
Thanks again to all of you that did contribute!
Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
I have a similar problem where I over packed the front compartment & now the hood latch won't open it. I have tried the manual release cable but it just won't move. & yes I have tried pulling the lever whilst someone id pushing down on the hood to take the pressure off.
Hope you don't mind me messaging you directly for advice.. From reading your posts your:e obviously very familiar with Boxsters.
You replied to one of my threads on 986forum about my gearbox issues.
I can't work out what's going on with my clutch.
A quick summary:
Replaced clutch & had difficulty getting the box back in but eventually got there.
Tested that everything worked before putting the undercarraige back in.
!st time clutch depressed the slave cylinder **** itself.
Replaced slave cylinder & bled by using the rear left brake caliper & clear tube to slave cylinder. All fluide leaked from resiviour.
Had my wife depress the brake as I opened both nipples & could see the moevement of fluid.
About 10 pumps all the way down with nipples closed before brake pedal is released with both cluch pedal in & out.
Still no joy.
Im confused. Its a simple hydralic line......WTF is going on. Is there a valve somewhere or something?
OK, in order:
(1) I am always circumspect when someone redoes the clutch and the clutch slave suddenly dies. Usually, that is a sign that something (throw out bearing, fork, fork pivot, etc.) is not right inside the bellhousing., causing the slave to fail. If this is the case, the new one will follow the old one into the trash can because the problem is not fixed.
(2) I do not understand what your rear brake caliper has to do with bleeding your clutch. While they share a common fluid reservoir (at the front of the car), the brakes and clutch hydraulic systems are otherwise totally separate. You should not be connecting the brake caliper to the slave cylinder for ANY reason. If you don't have a pressure bleeding tool, you should be having your wife depress and hold the clutch pedal to the floor while you open the slave bleeder to let the air out; repeating this process until no air shows up.
(3) If you have bled the brake reservoir down to empty, you most likely have gotten air into the system, which is a major headache as you will now require the use of a Porsche specific (PST II, PIWIS, Durametric) scan tool to run the factory procedure to get the air out of the brake system.
I seriously think you are in over your head here, and need to get the car to someone that understands them better.
Thanks for your reply.
I do have a Durametric so I'll look for the factory procedure to bleed the air out.
Everything looked fine when replacing the clutch/gearbox. The trow out bearing was seated in the fork as it should be & a clutch alignment tool was used to centre the clutch. I've had the car for 15 years & do just about all work required myself & using the advice on forums when needed.
I appreciate your advice.
I need the same info. Started he up this morning & drove her out the garage to do some work on her. This afternoon: 1) Ignition on all good battery ok. 2) Turn key & nothing. No dimming of ignition lights. 3) Won't roll start 4) Drivers side window stays extended when door open 5) Checked all relevant fuses & all ok 6) Removed battery terminal for 5 mins & reconnected...no change. 7) Plugged in Durametric & no Fault codes. Does this meas it's probably the ignition switch? Got me stuffed atm
Have now purchased Durametric Enthusiast Version & am seeking the procedure to bleed the barkes. Is anyone able to assist? I know the oredr of the wheels to do what I need is which function of the ABS 5.3 on Durametric to activate & when. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.