rbizet

Hello, I don't know if it has been published on this forum yet, but I just went through the new 911 & Porsche world by accident. They have a detailed step by step instructions with some interesting pictures on how to upgrade to a glass window for pre 2003 Boxsters. If anybody is interested I can scan the article, just let me know. They also talk about the M96 upgrade to get rid of engine failures and RMS leaks. This tuner in the UK can also bump your engine displacement to a 4L if I recall correctly. Happy Boxstering

Hi, I got exactly the same issue as you describe. The culprit was one weight on my rear wheel fell off. It is something like 7 grams and at 80 mph I could definitely feel the difference. My problem was that I just had bought the car and the owner put 4 new tires on it. So I was not sure how the car was supposed to behave at that speed but I was convinced something was wrong. They rebalanced the tires and found out that one wheel weight had came off and they replaced it. It costed me a day but the car felt perfect, rock solid the way it is supposed to be. I felt obliged to test it at 100 mph just to make sure it was fine. :lol: Good Luck

Guys, As usual you were right on the money. :D Just dropped by the mechanics as my friend was picking up his 944 so the guy checked it. His diagnostic is a faulty wheel bearing so I should get the estimate tomorrow. The issue is it is tough to be 100% sure that it is coming from the left. I just got the estimated e-mailed and it is not cheap. Part is 58.92 each which is pretty cheap compared to what I found on the internet but labor is 7 hours for both wheels at $ 105/hr. Total is $864 for both wheels. Another Porsche defective part, how can a wheel bearing fail at 23,000 miles :cursing: Anyway thanks again and I will post an update.

Hi, Thanks for the info. I had a friend of mine drive the car and he can listen to a slightly road noise coming from the rear but it is very subtle. I got a good shop recommendation but they will probably never hear it at this stage. The thing is I did not hit a pothole or a curb so I don't see why my wheel would get damaged. There is no bulges, flat spot, rocks in treads, etc. in any of the tires. The wheel bearings could go wrong with only 23,000 miles? Holminator what type of noise did you get with your bearing going bad? I heard it has to be a clunking noise but they might be wrong. Plus when I lifted the car I tried to pull/push the wheel to check for any free play and nothing. I rotated both tires by hand and I only get a slight gridind noise of the rotors. Did you have a low mileage as well? It seems surprising to fail with a 2002 recent model. May I ask how much did it cost to fix it (part/labor)? Can you please describe the symptoms? If it is the case can I keep driving it? It is my daily driver. I will monitor it and if it gets mor noticeable bring it to the shop. Thanks again for your help. :jump:

Hello, My car is a 2000S with 23,000 miles on it and my 4 tires were changed when I bought the car at 17,000 miles. 18 inch Pirelli PZero. The only way I can describe this noise is like a "wup wup wup" which gets faster as the vehicle speed increases. It seems to be coming from the rear wheel. Also if I open my window I don't hear it as well as when the window is closed. The noise gets a bit louder and the interval shortens when speed increases. It starts when I reach 30 mph, when I slow down below 30 mph it takes about 2 seconds for the noise to be less noticeable while the interval increases up to no noise. Also there is no vibration in the steering wheel or brake pedal. Besides the fact that it is speed dependent, whether I accelerate, turn, brake, etc. it does not get affected. I did jack each rear wheel up and checked if there is any free play and no there is none. No rocks inside the tire treads. When I turn it by hand there is a slight grinding noise on both wheels but more noticeable on the left one as if the rotors are touching the pads. The other thing that might not be related is I need to pull my handbrake pretty hard if I want to immobilize the car in a hill. Could the handbrake shoes be worn out and touch something? By the way I reinflated my tires recently as the pressure had fell way below normal tire pressure, but my tires do not look worn out at all. What could be the possible issues? Wheel bearings, CV joints, warped rotors, bad tire, etc. Can I potentially make things worse by driving it? Sorry with all those questions as I know it is very difficult to troubleshoot those issues this way. But I am just hoping somebody went through the exact same problem and has an answer. As I had to rebalance my wheel when a weight came off, I now know exactely how to diagnose the issue now. Thank you in advance for your help. :clapping:

Hello, Take a look at Skyler DIY for a boxster 2.5L. It is pretty comprehensive, I just bought the plastic fastener myself at the dealer and mesh grilles on ebay. I painted them in artic silver to match my car and will do the install in the next few weeks. http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Porsche/R...r/Radiator.html

Hello, Thank you for the picture it is greatly appreciated !!! I did not have a jack stand so I was not confortable to do a thorough search. Next time I will even had the beer bottle for extra safety as you suggested :clapping: . I will try again in a few weeks by just topping the liquid off. Regarding the coolant, is it true that it should last a life time. I came across different opinions on that subject. That would be nice to know if it is something I should plan on doing. Regarding power steering fluid you just top it off? Do you ever flush that fluid? Thank you for your help. PS: I will definitely come to your work on cars. Unfortunately I always had some issues at work which prevented me from dropping by as I live up north. I will bring the beer next time. :cheers:

Hello, Thanks for the reply. Most of the time you don't need to, agreed. This weekend I flushed my brakes with the OEM jack, one wheel at a time and it would have been much easier if I had access to all 4 calipers at the same time. Did you guys have a preferred brand or model regarding the tools you use? For example a brand of floor jack, capacity, clearance, etc. Same thing regarding the stands some have a V shaped other are flats, etc. Thank You

Hello, I bought my car, 2000 S, about 6 months ago with 17,000 miles on it. All the previous maintenance was done at the dealership. My car has now about 23,000 miles. I found out that some of the maintenance outside the regular schedules was not done like flushing the brakes for example. I did it this weekend after I bought a Power Bleeder but could not flush the clutch. Stupidily I could not locate the bleeding valve even though I read Loren DIY !!!! If somebody has a picture that would be greatly appreciated. My questions is what would you do on a 5 year old car to make sure that it will stay in pristine conditions. I am going to do the 30,000 miles service myself but how about other maintenance items that are not listed in the regular maintenance schedule? - Flush coolant? (done by a shop with a vacuum tool or DIY?, shop to recommend in North Bay area) - Flush Power steering fluid? - Change gearbox oil? - etc.. Thank You for your help Happy Boxstering

Hello, I have a 2000 Boxster S and with the help of your web site and the workshop manuals I am looking into doing most of the maintenance myself to learn more about my car. Which tools would you recommend for the following? - Jack - 4 Stands - Mechanics tool set How do you put the car on the 4 stands? To be more precise how can you jack the car up at the 4 designated lift points and put it on the jack stand at the same points? Which other places do you jack the car up from? Thank you for your help.

No need to reply I found the appropriate post on rennlist. For those of you who might be interested: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...vo+link+install Thanks Anyway !!!!

Hello, I am new to the Bay Area I just relocated from Europe but I am a big Porsche fan. I just want first to thank you for all the great info you are sharing on this site. I just installed a B&M shifter with the evo link this afternoon on my 2000S. I have a question: the piece does not thread/screw into the cable, the evo link is attached only through 2 small screws (even though they are 3 holes, did they miss one when they ship it?). The link seems very flimsy, did I do something wrong? The shifter feels great, it is very tight a bit tough to engage but I will get use to it. I just don't want to loose gears on the highway because the evo link broke loose. My OEM link was in pretty bad shape. I would appreciate if you have any feedback regarding the EVO link install. I just find weird that they would engineer such a nice aluminium shifter and end up with a system with weak screws to hold the cable in place. At least in the OEM one if it brakes it cannot fully pull back. I am 2 hours away from San Jose so I would like to troubleshoot it before I come down there. Thank you vey much in advance. Renaud.